My SR20 Build

[90S13Pilot]

Yes another one of these... however I'm new to the SR20 motor and want to make sure I'm covering all of my bases.

I am building the motor for a street machine... not a drift vehicle or weekend race car. I would like to know other peoples experiences, and if there is anything I don't need or do need to make my build more reliable or better.


SR20DET S13 Blacktop
Motor Spun a bearing on Rod #1 and welded itself to the rod.
Block Will Be Decked, Honed, ETC... with a 86.5 MM TQ Plate.

Parts List:

CP 86.5MM Pistons 8:5:1
Eagle Rods
Mazworx Head & Main Studs
ACL Race Main & Rod Bearings
OEM Thrust Washers
Apexi Headgasket 87MM x 1.5MM
Supertech Valve Guides Intake & Exhaust
Brian Cower Stainless Intake & Exhaust Valves
S14 Oil Pump
S14 Oil Pickup
Moroso Oil Pan
SR20 Complete Gasket Kit
Timing Chain Kit
Nismo Thermostat
Water Pump
Megan Pulleys
OEM Valve Stem Seals Intake & Exhaust
Tomei Poncams 256 @11.50 lift
Brian Cower Springs & Retainers
New OEM Crankshaft

[90S13Pilot]

Nobody must build their sr20!

[di-devol]

I'd skip the torque plate unless it's free. If you are using tomei cams, use tomei springs, but they are not needed on PonCams anyway.

[90S13Pilot]

I'd skip the torque plate unless it's free. If you are using tomei cams, use tomei springs, but they are not needed on PonCams anyway.

Machinist said he wanted to be extra cautious. So I had one custom made. I'll just resell it or let people rent it.

[Nismo_sam]

List looks good to me for a street only build, doubt you'd have problems with it.

[S@nt0s]

Yes another one of these... however I'm new to the SR20 motor and want to make sure I'm covering all of my bases.

I am building the motor for a street machine... not a drift vehicle or weekend race car. I would like to know other peoples experiences, and if there is anything I don't need or do need to make my build more reliable or better.


SR20DET S13 Blacktop
Motor Spun a bearing on Rod #1 and welded itself to the rod.
Block Will Be Decked, Honed, ETC... with a 86.5 MM TQ Plate.

Parts List:

CP 86.5MM Pistons 8:5:1
Eagle Rods
Mazworx Head & Main Studs lose the main studs
ACL Race Main & Rod Bearings
OEM Thrust Washers
Apexi Headgasket 87MM x 1.5MM
Supertech Valve Guides Intake & Exhaust
Brian Cower Stainless Intake & Exhaust Valves
S14 Oil Pump
S14 Oil Pickup
Moroso Oil Pan
SR20 Complete Gasket Kit
Timing Chain Kit
Nismo Thermostat
Water Pump
Megan Pulleys
OEM Valve Stem Seals Intake & Exhaust
Tomei Poncams 256 @11.50 lift
Brian Cower Springs & Retainers
New OEM Crankshaft why a new crank unless its completely shot just get a used one and get it all line honed or if your current crank can be cut


my response in red and lose the torque plate.

[ultimateirving]

arp head studs are what id say as well.
and what turbo/ecu/exhaust manifold/intake manifold/fpr/fuel pump/injectors/rail/fuel type are you going to use

[90S13Pilot]

arp head studs are what id say as well.
and what turbo/ecu/exhaust manifold/intake manifold/fpr/fuel pump/injectors/rail/fuel type are you going to use

IHI VN14 Turbo. Going to go bigger eventually. AEM Standalone. Megan Manifold. Isis Intake Manifold. Walbro 255, STI Yellow Injectors. Undecided on FPR and Fuel Rail.


ARP head studs from my research need to be shortened which isn't a huge deal but they can also cause twisting of the block. Doesn't ARP make Mazworx stuff? What is wrong with Mazworx Studs?

As far as Torque Plate goes why wouldn't you torque plate it? It ensures a better machine job.

[jr_ss]

So is this a question, as in you're asking for our opinions/help or this is what you plan on/are building?

[90S13Pilot]

So is this a question, as in you're asking for our opinions/help or this is what you plan on/are building?

I'm just seeing if people would do it differently. I've already ordered everything.

[jr_ss]

I'm just seeing if people would do it differently. I've already ordered everything.

If you've already ordered everything, then what does it matter? I may be interested in that torque plate when you're done with it.

[90S13Pilot]

If you've already ordered everything, then what does it matter? I may be interested in that torque plate when you're done with it.

I'll be selling it for $375 Shipped or $100 a week + Core Charge which will be refunded once the plate comes back.

[Kingtal0n]

with those springs you might as well install some real cams. HKS 264's will mate an aftermarket greddy style intake manifold, and a tubular equal length exhaust manifold very well. Use the torque plate, i dont know why people are telling you not to use one, it is mandatory when boring the engine for forged pistons if you want round cylinders with head studs.

those pistons are going to slap around when it is cold. Always give the engine 5-10 minutes to warm up before driving, and drive it easy for the first few miles also.

Use a turbo that supports up to about 450 horsepower. With a reasonable rpm limit (7700) you can max the compressor on 93 octane. keep the oem lifters.

the hardest part of that build will be the roundness and clearance of the rod bearings. IIRC, With ACL, I would shoot for around .0018" and use 10W-40 mineral oil. Knife edge the crankshaft if possible and reduce rotating weight where possible.

[S@nt0s]

knife edge crank for a 450hp set up isnt spending $ wisely

[Kingtal0n]

knife edge crank for a 450hp set up isnt spending $ wisely

Usually, it only costs about $300 to knife edge and balance the rotating assembly, and it makes a real difference.

http://zilvia.net/f/attachment.php?attachmentid=41151&d=1344474782

[S@nt0s]

still a waste of $ for something so simple power wise. theres no need for it
but for some it sounds cool.