How can I make 300 rwhp?

[joeyd]

I have a sr20det blacktop in a 95 body that i just bought. What modifications will i need to do to be able to run 300 rwhp and if you know around how much psi will that be?

Thanks.
Joe :aw: :aw:

[aeontony]

There really isn't a formula for this kind of thing..on a stock setup though 300rwhp is difficult. I think upping the boost will get you somewhere in the neighborhood of 260-270 rwhp. The easiest way, of course, is to change out the turbo. Massaging the head with some port/polishing along with some higher profile cams may do the trick, too. Along with all these though, come tuning problems to make sure you're not going to be running lean. A blacktop's 370cc injectors, along with the stock MAFS, will expire long before that. Your fuel pump, lack of intercooling, lack of external engine controls, will all become liabilities you'd probably want to deal with first before trying to crank out 300rwhp.

[Ghettokracker71]

There really isn't a formula for this kind of thing..on a stock setup though 300rwhp is difficult. I think upping the boost will get you somewhere in the neighborhood of 260-270 rwhp. The easiest way, of course, is to change out the turbo. Massaging the head with some port/polishing along with some higher profile cams may do the trick, too. Along with all these though, come tuning problems to make sure you're not going to be running lean. A blacktop's 370cc injectors, along with the stock MAFS, will expire long before that. Your fuel pump, lack of intercooling, lack of external engine controls, will all become liabilities you'd probably want to deal with first before trying to crank out 300rwhp.
Well said:)

[Gladman]

I deal with a lot of talons... the motors have a lot in common...

both 2 liter turbo, they both run MAFS and side mounts. 2G talons run T25's as well.

its quite easy to hit 300hp on a talon...

2.5" cold pipe, 3" intake pipe, ported turbo, ported o2 housing, 3" turbo back exhaust and up your boost to around 15psi. If that doesnt get you there, get some larger injectors and new ecu and start maxing out your turbo, should hit 300hp no problem.

I know a guy that ran a 13.2 on stock internals, injectors. He ran a ported and clipped stock 1G turbo and factory side mount. He had a bunch of bolt ons and was running just under 20psi.

[Muzzy]

200shot of NOS!!

or jus run a BigT28 FMIC(12-16psi i guess), intake, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, z32 MAF, walbro high flow pump, and 550cc injectors.

[96twofourty]

just put parts on it until it feels fast :dunno:

[ca18guy]

If your asking this question your best bet is to copy someone elses set-up.
I know PSI240SX has a nice 300+ rwhp set-up.

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=45108&highlight=psi240sx

[stp9154]

BigT28 FMIC(12-16psi i guess), intake, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, z32 MAF, walbro high flow pump, and 550cc injectors.

Add JWT ECU and all these should get you there. You might wanna add atleast a set of RAS in there. Otherwise, you might not have those ponies with you for long.

[Muzzy]

good point stp9154..about the RAS...i'd rather run an e-manage or somethin

[nightwalker]

pay someone... a lot.

[s13srmadness]

like others said- big28 (now a little cheaper!) full exhaust, injectors, and an ecu reprogram/afc/standalone. done.
do you want 300whp at really high boost or 300whp at lower/moderate boost?
the s15 turbo or big28 are going to have to be run pretty hard to get that power. keep that in mind.

[theronin]

............magic!

[misnomer]

Buy a big ranch, tie together a herd of horsies, and scare them off in one direction.

[mellojoe]

strap a bunch of horses to a Delorean and see if they can reach 88 miles per hour...

:p

[Ghettokracker71]

strap a bunch of horses to a Delorean and see if they can reach 88 miles per hour...

:p
hell yeah :rawk: .... lmao

[Veen]

It's gonna be a pain, I can tell you that right now. You'll easily hit 270HP with the stock turbo, and just be ever so close to entering the elusive 300+HP club.

What you'll want to do for sure is polish the ports. Not so much for the horsepower, but because it's at a time like this that you can make sure it's ready to handle the pressure. Also at this time, get a good heavy duty head gasket. Blowing one of those is easy to do if you're not careful.

While the cylinder head is off, may as well give the pistons a quick inspection to make sure they're still fine. If you're daring you may be able to find some mildly domed ones, but we're dealing with forced induction here, so you may as well just let this one be for now.

Also while the head is off, definitely go with higher profile camshafts. That will put you pretty damn close to the mark, possibly good for about 15HP if the ECU handles it.

Which brings me to the most costly part of this whole setup. Either swap the ECU with a programmable model, or one of those piggyback fuel control systems. You'll need it, otherwise you're going to have a whole slew of problems.

Now slap the head back on and do a check of the rest of the engine to make sure you're not missing some other reliability issue like worn hoses or belts. If you don't have one already, INSTALL AN INTERCOOLER! This should be good for a few HP and will do wonders for reliability and not making things explode in your engine compartment.

As a last step, get a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. Make sure your sparkplugs are set and ready to go, and fire it up. Break in the camshafts, take it for a test spin, and head to your local dyno. This should put you over the 300hp mark, though I can't stress enough doing extra modification to the engine to make sure it can handle all this.

There's not much of a reason you'd need 300HP in a daily driver, especially considering the cost of it. If it's just a drifter or a weekend car though, this should work fine. Personally, and this is just my own feelings on the matter considering my situation, I wouldn't go above 280hp. That's only 10 pounds each of your pet horses has to pull, and it's plenty for regular street driving. It's comparable to the power/weight in my Chevrolet Laguna S-3, and that thing is almost too fast for the road. I will admit though, it's fun to have that much power to mess with. :)

[theronin]

i'm tellin ya, just pray to the horsepower fairies then you should be all set

[s13srmadness]

if you're not going to go much farther than 300 i would suggest a jwt reprogram. can be had cheap. z32 mafs can be had cheap.
if you look around 550cc injectors go on ebay for less than $300 sometimes new.
a head gasket is entirely unecessary unless you plan on running 20lbs every day.
add it up:
big 28- $800
injectors- $300
z32 mafs- $100
jwt- $500 (or less)

= $1600
do you want 40whp more power $1600 bad?
stock t25s dont make 270 whp without cams or crazy tuning. you'd really have to be pushing it...

[HiPSI]

It's gonna be a pain, I can tell you that right now. You'll easily hit 270HP with the stock turbo, and just be ever so close to entering the elusive 300+HP club.

What you'll want to do for sure is polish the ports. Not so much for the horsepower, but because it's at a time like this that you can make sure it's ready to handle the pressure. Also at this time, get a good heavy duty head gasket. Blowing one of those is easy to do if you're not careful.

While the cylinder head is off, may as well give the pistons a quick inspection to make sure they're still fine. If you're daring you may be able to find some mildly domed ones, but we're dealing with forced induction here, so you may as well just let this one be for now.

Also while the head is off, definitely go with higher profile camshafts. That will put you pretty damn close to the mark, possibly good for about 15HP if the ECU handles it.

Which brings me to the most costly part of this whole setup. Either swap the ECU with a programmable model, or one of those piggyback fuel control systems. You'll need it, otherwise you're going to have a whole slew of problems.

Now slap the head back on and do a check of the rest of the engine to make sure you're not missing some other reliability issue like worn hoses or belts. If you don't have one already, INSTALL AN INTERCOOLER! This should be good for a few HP and will do wonders for reliability and not making things explode in your engine compartment.

As a last step, get a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. Make sure your sparkplugs are set and ready to go, and fire it up. Break in the camshafts, take it for a test spin, and head to your local dyno. This should put you over the 300hp mark, though I can't stress enough doing extra modification to the engine to make sure it can handle all this.

There's not much of a reason you'd need 300HP in a daily driver, especially considering the cost of it. If it's just a drifter or a weekend car though, this should work fine. Personally, and this is just my own feelings on the matter considering my situation, I wouldn't go above 280hp. That's only 10 pounds each of your pet horses has to pull, and it's plenty for regular street driving. It's comparable to the power/weight in my Chevrolet Laguna S-3, and that thing is almost too fast for the road. I will admit though, it's fun to have that much power to mess with. :)


wow, talk about taking the hard route. you don't need cams/headwork to do 300hp at all. hell the stock headgasket can handle 300hp with a good tune on it (although i wouldn't recommend it for long). the basic setup is a good turbo, engine management, injectors, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator. then tune tune tune and you'll get there no problem.

[Ghettokracker71]

wow, talk about taking the hard route. you don't need cams/headwork to do 300hp at all. hell the stock headgasket can handle 300hp with a good tune on it (although i wouldn't recommend it for long). the basic setup is a good turbo, engine management, injectors, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator. then tune tune tune and you'll get there no problem.
If he does cams/headwork,then that means that the engine can proccess more air right? Meaning he can turn the boost up a little,right? Also meaning,hes not on the bandwagon....his engines making part of the power,and the turbos taking care of the rest....as opposed to just upgrading the turbo system,why not upgrade what the turbo is blowing into? :)

[HiPSI]

If he does cams/headwork,then that means that the engine can proccess more air right? Meaning he can turn the boost up a little,right? Also meaning,hes not on the bandwagon....his engines making part of the power,and the turbos taking care of the rest....as opposed to just upgrading the turbo system,why not upgrade what the turbo is blowing into? :)


cost vs. gain in this case is what i'm going for. headwork does help a little bit, but the SR motor breathes very well dead stock. "polishing" really doesn't do much for power at all, porting is where you gain flow. why fix what isn't broken? like i said 300 is nothing for an SR, the stock head with some mild cams can flow plenty for 400hp. so take the $250 you'd pay a performance shop to do a good port/polish job and put it into a properly sized turbo or an intercooler upgrade.

[Ghettokracker71]

cost vs. gain in this case is what i'm going for. headwork does help a little bit, but the SR motor breathes very well dead stock. "polishing" really doesn't do much for power at all, porting is where you gain flow. why fix what isn't broken? like i said 300 is nothing for an SR, the stock head with some mild cams can flow plenty for 400hp. so take the $250 you'd pay a performance shop to do a good port/polish job and put it into a properly sized turbo or an intercooler upgrade.
gotcha.....I'll STFU now

[steve shadows]

There really isn't a formula for this kind of thing..on a stock setup though 300rwhp is difficult. I think upping the boost will get you somewhere in the neighborhood of 260-270 rwhp. The easiest way, of course, is to change out the turbo. Massaging the head with some port/polishing along with some higher profile cams may do the trick, too. Along with all these though, come tuning problems to make sure you're not going to be running lean. A blacktop's 370cc injectors, along with the stock MAFS, will expire long before that. Your fuel pump, lack of intercooling, lack of external engine controls, will all become liabilities you'd probably want to deal with first before trying to crank out 300rwhp.


This is half right, the stock s13 engine will make in the range (fully maxed out) approximately 245-255 whp. The maf sensor will be on its way out in the 230whp range, the injectors can live all the way to 280whp with an adjusable fpr (ive done it several times with simply the addition of a z32 maf) check out my site guys www.RPSport.net and read the dream. Ive summed up dead on proven (by my own car over the years) solutions to these magic hp number quests. We also offer a bolt in stock appearing (on the outside) sleeper turbo based off a t28 .86 ar rear turbine housing capable of 310+whp with the right tuning , 550cc injectors, z32 maf, exaust and fmic ...

im in the socal area and the mind is the only limitation in my opinion...

there are tried and proven formulas and this dont get dicked around my dishonest shops...

[17psi]

:jerkit: I'm floored by all the mis-information given on this topic...Ok, I don't know who the lame is that started this whole "you gotta replace your headgasket, with a thicker, more expensive $200.oo+ metal one"....that's complete bs...some shops are just taking your money!! I'm pretty sure all sr20det's are created equal(mine is a euro-spec 200sx, S14), and when I replaced my "stock" headgasket, it is metal, staright from nissan. The idiot that said you need to port and polish the sr20's head for 300whp, should never be allowed to own one. Cams are not necessary for 300whp either. And anyone who thinks 16-18 psi(on 93 pump gas no less) on an sr20det is alot of boost, should stick with hondas and 6psi bolt on turbo kits. Now that I've got that out of the way, here's my ideal low budget 300whp formula.....
255 lph fuel pump
z32 maf
550cc injectors minimum (I would personally go for 740's)
ecu tuned or s-afc(I think the afc can control 550's, not sure)
fmic
3" turbo back exhaust
15-17 degrees base timing(at least for an S14, dunno on S13's)
S14, S15, or GTI-r turbo (gti-r should get you there with slightly less boost)
from what I've gathered, you should be able to break 300whp with the gti-r turbo around 16-18psi.

For the person that mentioned getting 250hp from a dsm t25...you can get that at the flywheel from the 2g turbos, but that turbo is way smaller than the sr's t25(it wont ever make 250whp). You would have to push a 14b (1gen stock turbo) to 18+ psi to make 250whp...then it would only be a spike, because it would fall off to ~16 psi by redline anywayz. Lastly, the last guy promoting his mysterious t28 "special" turbo....give us a break, you are talking about a stock pulsar gti-r turbo...they come stock with an .86 a/r hot side, and the trick is to put the compressor cover off of an S14 T28 on the gti-r's cold side (in theory anywayz)...T04B (s14) vs. T3(gti-r)...they have the same compressor wheels. With the smaller a/r of the S14/15 turbos, I'm not sure they will break 300whp, but there are people claiming to break the 300whp mark on as low as 16psi with S14/15 turbos. I've ran my first S14(automatic) at 15-16psi for 2 years on the stock S14 turbo with everything listed above except the large maf and injectors, and know it wasn't anywhere near 300whp, more like 230-240rwhp is my best guess...I never dynoed it, but it did run the 1/4 mile in 14.2 @ 104mph.....60 ft. time was 2.6 (stock torque converter). Figure that car weighed ~2800lbs, so you can guess at the hp it needed to run 104mph. my 0.02 . Latah

[17psi]

It's gonna be a pain, I can tell you that right now. You'll easily hit 270HP with the stock turbo, and just be ever so close to entering the elusive 300+HP club.

What you'll want to do for sure is polish the ports. Not so much for the horsepower, but because it's at a time like this that you can make sure it's ready to handle the pressure. Also at this time, get a good heavy duty head gasket. Blowing one of those is easy to do if you're not careful.

While the cylinder head is off, may as well give the pistons a quick inspection to make sure they're still fine. If you're daring you may be able to find some mildly domed ones, but we're dealing with forced induction here, so you may as well just let this one be for now.

Also while the head is off, definitely go with higher profile camshafts. That will put you pretty damn close to the mark, possibly good for about 15HP if the ECU handles it.

Which brings me to the most costly part of this whole setup. Either swap the ECU with a programmable model, or one of those piggyback fuel control systems. You'll need it, otherwise you're going to have a whole slew of problems.

Now slap the head back on and do a check of the rest of the engine to make sure you're not missing some other reliability issue like worn hoses or belts. If you don't have one already, INSTALL AN INTERCOOLER! This should be good for a few HP and will do wonders for reliability and not making things explode in your engine compartment.

As a last step, get a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. Make sure your sparkplugs are set and ready to go, and fire it up. Break in the camshafts, take it for a test spin, and head to your local dyno. This should put you over the 300hp mark, though I can't stress enough doing extra modification to the engine to make sure it can handle all this.

There's not much of a reason you'd need 300HP in a daily driver, especially considering the cost of it. If it's just a drifter or a weekend car though, this should work fine. Personally, and this is just my own feelings on the matter considering my situation, I wouldn't go above 280hp. That's only 10 pounds each of your pet horses has to pull, and it's plenty for regular street driving. It's comparable to the power/weight in my Chevrolet Laguna S-3, and that thing is almost too fast for the road. I will admit though, it's fun to have that much power to mess with. :)

Ummm...hello..he said 300RWHP! you should keep your info to yourself, cuz you don't have a clue. You are just quoting something you read, anyone wanting 300whp should already have a clue that the stock tiny smic and stock injectors wont do...mildly domed pistons!?!?! sr's compression is 8.5:1 already, what would he do with mildly domed pistons? you want 7.0:1 so you can run 30psi on pump gas or what?.....why would the ecu not handle larger cams...ecu doesn't care if you change the cams, and it sure cant do anything about it when you do...don't worry, if you get the cam timing wrong, you'll know :keke: .... again, 270hp with the stock turbo...not whp, and not with anything smaller than an S14 turbo.....blowing a headgasket is easy, huh? how many have you blown? Oh lemme guess, you were porting and polishing your head and forgot to change the headgasket and put it all back together, then your ecu decided it didn't like the HKS cams you put in, because it wanted Jun's instead, so it tricked you into flooring it before you "broke in" your new cams and advanced the hang time of your valves long enough to smack your new mildly domed pistons and cause stuff to explode inside your engine, and shrapnel tore through your paper headgasket, and... hola! Don't feel I'm picking on you, but you probably wasted 15 mins of your life typing alot of :bs: and someone might read it an run with it....I can't have that. This is probably my very first post on this board, but trust me, I've been around for a while, and have gotten my hands dirty. Oh yeah...I don't usually dis people's idea of what a fast car is, but....do you truly believe a 300hp 240sx is fast? A street car with a 10:1 power to weight ratio is NOT fast ...you wouldn't even be able to beat a stock LS-1...now that i read all this and think...you were being sarcastic, weren't you? :bowrofl: damn! I wasted 25 mins replying to this! :Owned:

[ghostuss]

300hp = a 13 sec car = not that fast but enough for you to handle

300 + = you need to rebuild your head if you want to keep that engine.
(Cams, Headgasket, Studs, and mild port polish and match)

You will want to switch all the items that will limit you. Such as Fuel line(injector, etc), Cooling, larger turbo, and tranny parts to handle the power.

You will also want proper tuning system or an aftermarket ECu with some dyno tuning.

Bottom line, with all that done to ur SR, it can go 300 with ease but I would rather spend that money to get a rebuilt KA and turbo it for a lot more other good reasons.
But I guess SR is a lot more JDM haha.

[ca18guy]

8 months to late with the reply 17psi.