Build Questions...

[tsung]

What's up Guys...

So I am getting ready to build a new motor for my 90 s13 coupe. I am going to stick with a redtop SR20DET for the build. Now for the hard part, I have been told that I am crazy because I want to build a SR20 with a lot of power instead of swapping a 2JZ or a VQ35 anyway I want to stick to a SR20. I want to build a car for 600-700whp. I know it has been done before it just takes quite a bit. So after talking to a few friends I hae decided to run a stroker kit. What is everyones advice on building a motor for these power levels?? If your going to just talk trash and not offer advice about a SR20 then save it I would rather not hear it. If I wanted a 2JZ or a VQ35 I would just go out and buy a supra or a z car. Anyway useful information would be great.

[Edwin562]

It can be done for sure. Just alot of research and money in order to reach your power level. alot of people will tell you go LS to reach those numbers... What are your plans for the s13? 600+ is overkill hp for drifting, well in my opinion.

[tsung]

Well to tell you honestly I am building the car for time attack and road course... I will probably only run 450-500whp on the car but I want to over build the block so it can have a lot of breathing room and if I need to turn it up I can without stressing out my motor.

[Edwin562]

Well to tell you honestly I am building the car for time attack and road course... I will probably only run 450-500whp on the car but I want to over build the block so it can have a lot of breathing room and if I need to turn it up I can with out stressing our my motor.
400-500 should be far more than enough for road race. haha :2f2f:

[usdm180sx]

Do the sr20ve-t head conversion from mazworks. Slap on a fat turbo and you'll be in that range at 30-40lbs of boost

[fliprayzin240sx]

600hp is overkill for a 4-banger. Wheres the fun on driving a car that wont spool up until close to 6k rpm? I was running a GT3582R on an SR, pushing over 500hp, didnt see boost until way pass 5k rpm. Anything below that, kei cars would pass me. This coming from somebody who's been there, done that...go do this with an I-6. Cheaper, more reliable and more fun to drive. Its not hard to make 600hp on an RB25. For as much as you'd spend to make an SR hold together at that power range, you can do an RB26 swap.

You're not road racing a 600hp SR...

[tsung]

600hp is overkill for a 4-banger. Wheres the fun on driving a car that wont spool up until close to 6k rpm? I was running a GT3582R on an SR, pushing over 500hp, didnt see boost until way pass 5k rpm. Anything below that, kei cars would pass me. This coming from somebody who's been there, done that...go do this with an I-6. Cheaper, more reliable and more fun to drive. Its not hard to make 600hp on an RB25. For as much as you'd spend to make an SR hold together at that power range, you can do an RB26 swap.

You're not road racing a 600hp SR...

I didn't say I was road racing a 600hp SR I said I wanted to build the motor to that and run it at 450 or so. I would have no idead where to start to do a RB26 swap in my car.

[tsung]

If I did swap my car I would want to build the RB before dropping the in and I am sure that building a RB25 or RB26 will cost more than a SR20

[fliprayzin240sx]

If I did swap my car I would want to build the RB before dropping the in and I am sure that building a RB25 or RB26 will cost more than a SR20

My point is that 400hp on a stock SR can already get iffy, you build it, handle more than 500hp. 400hp on a stock RB25 is nothing. 600hp on it, stock bottom end will still handle it.

[SR20DETpwr]

The stock block of the SR will handle 400whp easily as long as you build it right and have it tuned by a reputable shop. You can blow any motor up if the tuning sucks. Sleeving the block would make it even stronger, but will cost ya around $1,600 installed by a good machine shop. If you go that route make sure the block is heat cycled and pressure tested at operating temp to ensure the sleeves do not leak. I would also have the block and head decked to obtain a perfectily flat mating surface for a nice MLS gasket (Apexi or Cosworth). The gasket should fit snugly around the dowels on the block - there should be no play. Here is my setup which made near 400whp on a gt2871r.....

- Crower billet steel rods
- Wiseco pistons (stock bore and compression / I probably would've bumped up compression to 9:1, but didn't know enough at the time to change the specs)
- ARP main studs (will want to have the mains align honed by machine shop)
- ACL race bearings for crank
- sleeved block (stock block will work just fine SRs are considered a closed deck which is the sturdiest of the other options)
- ARP head studs
- Apexi head gasket
- Ferrea alloy valves
- Manley valve springs (Are you comfortable choosing your own valve springs? Will they have the correct pressure for the cams you choose?)
- Crower tit. retainers
- HKS 264/272 cams with 11.5mm lift
- HKS adjustable cam gears
- HKS rocker arm stoppers for a little insurance
- Bowl work and enlarged oil galleys in head (motor known for oil press. issues)
- S14 oil strainer/pickup (larger opening and uses an o-ring to seal connection to the block - again, helping the oil pressure)
- new timing chain, guides, and bolts (Nissan updated the OEM plastic timing chain guides due to issues of them breaking and you'll need the updated bolts to use them)
- new timing chain tensioner
- gasket kit for engine
- new oil pump cover (why spend all this money and not ensure these items are good?)
- new water pump
- new thermostat
- all new coolant/vac. lines and hose clamps
- GReddy intake manifold with OEM throttle body
- GReddy top-feed fuel rail
- Precision 850cc top feed injectors
- Iridium plugs
- Aeromotive FPR with braided lines and AN fittings
- Z32 fuel filter (I'll step up in the future)
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- stock exhaust manifold
- Precision 2871r with new oil and coolant lines
- Nismo thermostat (help keep temps down)
- Aluminum radiator with elec. fans and higher pressure radiator cap (19-21psi)
- solid engine/tranny mounts
- ACT 6-puck organic sprung clutch kit (sprung clutch disks are easier on the transmission and better for the street)
- OEM transmission
- flywheel resurfaced (cost around $35 at machine shop)
- stand alone on MAP based setup, but I would recommend running a MAF and reflashed ECU (MAF adjusts better to the changing environment and is more streetable / also cheaper)
- upgrade your brakes to 300ZX TT at least (no point in putting the power down if you can't stop when needed)
- Boost controller
- front mount
- relocate battery to trunk (will need new ground and positive cables unless you buy a complete kit)
- oil filters
- I would recommend using some Royal Purple break-in oil since it has additives to protect the moving parts)

I probably missed something, but I tried to be as thorough as possible to give you an idea of what you are up against. Price everything out and judge whether or not this is something you want to get into. What else could you do with this money because this is a serious dedication of your income that you will not get back. Are you doing the work yourself? If not, you'll have to factor in the cost to have someone build your engine, put the car together, and tune it. Do you have the tools to do this build yourself? If you don't this will add a lot more expense to the build. You have a lot of research ahead bro, but if you get through it you will be more knowlegeable about your car and this hobby. It will definately give you a deeper appreciation for this stuff - it did me. Are you ready for the unexpected hurdles? My car was dyno tuned and 22 miles into my drive home I was running into overheating issues. After getting the car home, compression testing the engine, and checking other things with my engine builder we ended up pulling the motor and found the sleeves leaked after pressure testing the block. Now I'm getting ready to drop the new engine in - only waiting on my clutch alignment tool. I've spent tons of money on my car and only continue to do so because I've invested too much to give up now. But, I would not change a thing. I have grown in knowledge and my appreciation for this sport through all of it. Whatever you decide - good luck!