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View Full Version : built sr 22 not starting. need help. should be simple


idahotuner
01-30-2012, 04:07 PM
Hey guys

. I am racking my brain and just about everyone else's brains on my starting problem other my redtop SR. U have all my spec in the previous email below this one. Well I go to start the car fuel pumps prime and I know I am getting fuel to the rail. Because I had to make my own rail brackets and getting them to seal was a pain.

Well when I parked the car everything was working fine. Spark was set perfectly. Cams are timed perfectly. Cas is set correctly. Well when I went to start it. It cranked and crank and cranked just wouldn't fire. I rechecked everything.**Connections. Grounds. Spark. Pulled the cas listened to injectors click correctly. Even put some oil in the sparkplug holes as the motor had sat drive for a year and still nothing.

Well I ran starting fluid into a vacuum line and cranked. U could smell it coming out the exhaust. Not burning at all. I unplug the ignitor and crank it a little then plug it back in. And boom she fires up I sit there with it Rev ed up for a bit and slowly ease off. And its idling right at 900 and wide band is reading 11.3. Its idling and reving perfect. We let it sit like this for a while. Then I go to unplug the tps to set the fuel pressure up. Because it was running about 33-35 Psi. As soon as I unplug the tps it dies. I come back later after the shop airs out. And She fires right up again. But this time it sounds like its running on three cylinders. Runs for a bit. So I turn it off to come back to it. And now it wont start again. I clean plugs. Even switch them out. Unplug and plug back in the ignitor nothing. I did notice that one coil was sparking weaker. And the spark doesn't seem as violent as normal. But its sparking on all four. I noticed on coil pack sparking out the side of the coil the one with weak spark. But the thing is its getting spark. Fuel and air in the right order.
And every eclectic thing was working peflrfect when parked.

The only stuff I changed was turbo bolt on stuff. And wiring in injector resistors and msd injector clips.



gt3076 ar size well i went with a .82 twinscroll figure it should be about perfect for my setup, being a sr20 that is 2.2 liters
96lb msd injectors. and dual walboro fuel pumps. should should flow plenty of fuel for race gas and street fuel


Code 55 on ecu
Dual tune Enthalpy




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idahotuner
01-30-2012, 04:09 PM
Sorry for spelling and typing errors. I only have my phone

S13Gene
01-30-2012, 07:46 PM
try shooting starter fluid in there again to see if it will start, whats fuel pressure at when you turn the key on?

89JDM240sx
01-30-2012, 07:56 PM
What fuel filter do you have? Or you can spray son Starting fluid into the TB

idahotuner
01-30-2012, 08:46 PM
33 psi is what it comes up to. Should be a few more psi. But when I pull the plugs out there is fuel on them. I hook a short vacuum line on the intake manifold bov bung. And spray fuild in that. And it pumps the starting fluid all the way through. Cause u can smell it strong in the exhaust

idahotuner
01-30-2012, 08:47 PM
Z32 fuel filter. Its new. And the fuel lines in the engine bay are new. Its getting fuel. Spark and air. Started up and ran perfect. Now wont start again

S13Gene
01-30-2012, 09:07 PM
Do you have a spare ignitor?

idahotuner
01-30-2012, 09:11 PM
No I don't. I had one of my buddies sugest that also. He said he was Going to check for to see if he had an extra

Corey121
01-30-2012, 09:14 PM
Did you take the injectors out at anypoint before you were having problems? Is it possible you have torn the injector o-rings?

jacobs13
01-30-2012, 09:24 PM
If you have any junkyards around you go load up on ignitors from j30s and z32s, I had a problem like this and I wired in a j30 and it was good from there. Now I have a few for this reason.

idahotuner
01-30-2012, 10:26 PM
I have top feed msd injectors. So if the o ring leaks it runs down the outside. Yeah I would prefer to be able to just plug in a different one to see if it makes a difference

idahotuner
01-30-2012, 10:29 PM
Also. If it was flooding out I would have figured it out. Because I have a fuel pump kill switch And I crank the engine over with the fuel pumps off. My old set up had leaking o rings and when I would kill the fuel and crank it. The extra fuel would burn up and start. This isn't acting like to much fuel or to little fuel.

idahotuner
01-31-2012, 07:34 PM
Well two votes for ignitor

idahotuner
02-01-2012, 05:05 PM
Any one thing the fuel is to old. Its was put in a year ago October.

89JDM240sx
02-01-2012, 05:10 PM
No the age of the fuel wouldn't matter... Lol

di-devol
02-01-2012, 06:23 PM
A year is a while, you could always get it out and put some fresh gas in. I'm not sure on gas shelf life, but a year seems a long time lol.

89JDM240sx
02-01-2012, 06:32 PM
When I sat put my 240 up it was sitting for a bout a yr and 4 months swapped in built KA and used the same gas no problems... But everybody does it diff

idahotuner
02-01-2012, 06:46 PM
I know. I have had it sit for this long before and have the fuel be fine still.

idahotuner
02-01-2012, 08:51 PM
Well I got an ignitor on the way. See if it makes a difference

jr_ss
02-01-2012, 10:53 PM
I wouldn't say your fuel was too old to burn, but I wouldn't boost on it. Have you physically checked for spark? Have you tried unplugging the MAF and starting it? Is the engine timed right?

idahotuner
02-02-2012, 10:40 AM
Yep physicaly watched spark. Cam to crank timing set perfectly. Spark timing is also. And injectors are shooting fuel.

I talked to Martin from Enthalpy and he said gas this old always has a hard time cold starting. But it seemed like if I turn off the fuel pump Ans spray starter fluid through it. That should get enough for it to fire up for a few seconds

mattsil80wis
02-02-2012, 01:08 PM
when you get it running swap around the coilpacks to see if the miss in the cylinder travels to different cylinders...could be a bad coilpack

but it sounds like a bad ignitor for the not starting issue

idahotuner
02-02-2012, 02:54 PM
Well I pumped all the. Old fuel out. Poured a little on the ground and tried lighting it with a match. And barely ignited. So fuel is a big part.

idahotuner
02-02-2012, 04:24 PM
Yeah I know one coilpack is week. I am going get spit fires. But I need it running before I dump any money into it

89JDM240sx
02-02-2012, 04:31 PM
Good luck bro

idahotuner
02-04-2012, 01:57 PM
well it was bad gas
she is kicking over an firing up now. just got to do some timing adjustments to get her in the correct place and she should be purring like a kitten. fingers crossed

idahotuner
02-23-2012, 06:20 PM
Allrighty you were right about the gas. I pumped it all out and put fresh fuel in and it ran. But I had messed around with my Cas timing that it was confused. So we reset my cas and it cranked and was catching like it would almost start up but then wouldn't. So then we had the Cas rotated all the way towards the back of the car and it started and wouldn't Rev over 500 rpm. So we figured it need to move that way a little more. Pull the Cause back out and set it correctly but at a way that gives me more rotation to the back. Well it starts up and is reving up to almost 2500ish and still not idling really. 400-500 rpm. We pulled the Cas again but accidentally put it in 360 degrees off so just cranked. Pulled the valve cover off so we could see the came and cas to know it was correct. And now its just cranking not coughing or anything. I have two ignitors that I switch back and forth but it has started on either. I also bridged the fuel pump relay but that didn't help any thing. Ecu is code 55, we have been using starting fluid. But we got one pretty badly back fire. So we kinda laid off that.

idahotuner
02-24-2012, 08:15 PM
well i reset everything, cleaned the maf, was getting her to sputter again. but then it stopped firing but cranks hard. so i check the ecu codes 11 and 12 popped up. cas and maf

idahotuner
03-12-2012, 01:18 PM
Well I figured got a new cas and check everything was set from cam timing to spark. Unplugged the maf and sprayed some starting fluid and she fired up with wot. Ran rough for about 30 secs. So I think that since the maf is bad its screwing timing up really bad enough to make it not start because of the large injectors and over bore and all. But unplug it throws it into limp mode and makes it run really rich that's why the throttle needed to be wide open to keep it running. What do you guys think

idahotuner
04-09-2012, 09:36 PM
Bought a new Isis maf added some fuel from our tank. And she fired up.

army240
04-10-2012, 07:50 AM
Something like that happened to me...

Started the car, ran good for 15 minutes. Then it started to sputter and died.

Redid all wiring, checked CAS timing like 10 times, checked cam timing, tried another CAS, another igniter, another set of coilpack, checked for spark and fuel... I even tested my wiring with an oscilloscope. Redid all ground too!!! Everything was good...

Then I decided to change the spark plug just because I was out of idea...

Put the new plugs in... started right up. I was soooo pissed that I loosed 3 freaking weeks of nice weather(that we don't have a lot in Quebec) because of stupid spark plugs!!!

It's not because it's doing spark in ambiant air, with no compression pressure, that it is still doing spark in the combustion chamber with pressure and Air and Fuel mixture!!!

It might not be the same thing as me, but I think it worth a try. In 10 years of as an automotive tech, it was the only time I saw that.

I hope it help,

Frank

EDIT : Damn, should have read your last post!!! Good think she fired up, have fun!

idahotuner
04-10-2012, 11:19 AM
Haha. Thanks I do need new coils and colder plugs. And to adjust the timing a little more. I hear you about missing good weather its the same in Idaho. Thankfully I got one drive cause now I'm 400 miles away working