Seraphim38
01-14-2012, 05:35 PM
Summary: two nights in a row I have gone out to drive my car and it wouldn't start, yet it started immediately in the morning and during the day on both days. When this happened the engine would turn over again and again but never fired. Fuel pressure was correct, and injectors power cycled when the CAS was disconnected. Is there anything that could intermittently cause the engine to loose spark totally? I am thinking that I should replace the Ignitor Chip but that's a guess.
Story: Over the past 8 months I have been building a solid SR20DET setup. I had the engine built by a mechanic who has several cars in Formula D. My S13 240 already had a blacktop installed in it that was running strong but it developed a slight rod knock so I had him build a new motor for it. After installation of the new motor It ran super rich (10-11:1) on first start. Since enthalpy said the tune should be spot on, we tested a few things even though we were curious what could be messed up since the engine was running fine in this exact car before. We surprisingly found the S13 TPS was faulty and replaced it, and then it ran very lean even though it was calibrated to stock spec (0.3V closed). So we raised the base fuel pressure a few psi to compensate (Aeromotive FPR, 6AN lines, HKS top feed rail) but it still runs 14 -16:1 and idles at 20:1, (wastegate is disengaged so this is below 3k rpm break in, 0 to 20% throttle only). There are no boost leaks and it pulls up to -20 vacuum at idle. With the cams it will pull down to -12 if idle is set down to 600 rpm but does 20 at 1k rpm idle. Voltage is good; battery is an Odyssey PC925, alternator is new.
Setup: (86.5 bore, CP pistons, eagle rods, ACL race bearings, Apexi 1.1 HG, 9:1 compression, BC264 cams 12.0mm lift, ported head with Greddy valve springs, BC titanium retainers, stock intake manifold and S13 TB, GT2871R .64, Apexi suction kit, Z32 MAF, ID1000cc injectors, Enthalpy tune, HKS top feed rail, Walbro 255 pump, Stance water pump pulley, Greddy hot pipe/cold pipe/BOV, full oil cooler setup with permacool thermostat and remote oil filter, Greddy oil pan, Koyo race radiator, Samco hoses, etc).
Thoughts: I am thinking that I should replace the ignitor chip, maybe the N62 MAF, and maybe install Splitfire coil setup. I shipped my ECU to Enthalpy for testing and a richer map. Any suggestions?
Story: Over the past 8 months I have been building a solid SR20DET setup. I had the engine built by a mechanic who has several cars in Formula D. My S13 240 already had a blacktop installed in it that was running strong but it developed a slight rod knock so I had him build a new motor for it. After installation of the new motor It ran super rich (10-11:1) on first start. Since enthalpy said the tune should be spot on, we tested a few things even though we were curious what could be messed up since the engine was running fine in this exact car before. We surprisingly found the S13 TPS was faulty and replaced it, and then it ran very lean even though it was calibrated to stock spec (0.3V closed). So we raised the base fuel pressure a few psi to compensate (Aeromotive FPR, 6AN lines, HKS top feed rail) but it still runs 14 -16:1 and idles at 20:1, (wastegate is disengaged so this is below 3k rpm break in, 0 to 20% throttle only). There are no boost leaks and it pulls up to -20 vacuum at idle. With the cams it will pull down to -12 if idle is set down to 600 rpm but does 20 at 1k rpm idle. Voltage is good; battery is an Odyssey PC925, alternator is new.
Setup: (86.5 bore, CP pistons, eagle rods, ACL race bearings, Apexi 1.1 HG, 9:1 compression, BC264 cams 12.0mm lift, ported head with Greddy valve springs, BC titanium retainers, stock intake manifold and S13 TB, GT2871R .64, Apexi suction kit, Z32 MAF, ID1000cc injectors, Enthalpy tune, HKS top feed rail, Walbro 255 pump, Stance water pump pulley, Greddy hot pipe/cold pipe/BOV, full oil cooler setup with permacool thermostat and remote oil filter, Greddy oil pan, Koyo race radiator, Samco hoses, etc).
Thoughts: I am thinking that I should replace the ignitor chip, maybe the N62 MAF, and maybe install Splitfire coil setup. I shipped my ECU to Enthalpy for testing and a richer map. Any suggestions?