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KYZAAC
11-27-2011, 12:04 PM
My s13/SR build is actually starting to see an end in sight, although you wouldn’t think it by looking at it as all the money went towards engine/mechanical, suspension, brakes. Not a dime in paint or body work yet. I finally heard my sr running, it's been a year and a half, somewhere between 12 - 15k and way way too much of my time. I've read tons of information over the past year and a lot of stuff got scrambled, seems like everyone has the same setup, but setup different. Im hoping to clear a few things up.

1. Vacuum lines -I know thers tons of diagrams out there, I have them, some doesn’t seem right tho. I see ppl add a hose barb to the hot pipe that goes to the waste gate, is this needed for a better vacuum, closer to the turbo? I have lots of vacuum ports on the isis intake manifold I have. Should I add a barb to my hotpipe for the wastegate?

My Current Vacuum line setup -
BOV -to- Throttle Body Vac
Boost Gauge - To - Intake Manifold Vac
FPR -to- Intake manifold Vac
Manual Boost Controllerr - waste gate to MBC Tee
- MBC Tee To Vac on Throttle Body
- MBC Tee -to- MBC

2. BOV not blowing off - when I had the car started, the bov was not releasing, the turbo was spooling, but it would not blow off. Would running the wastegate to the hotpipe help?

3. Heater core leaking - to bypass this, can I just connect the lines together that connect to the heater core through the firewall? Its just a temp fix until I can find a core. My auto parts store can't get them and the ones on ebay will not ship to canada. Anyone have one for sale? I need a throttle cable too.

4. Oil catch can - everytime I research this I come up with a different answer. This seems like the correct way tho. Is this right?

Valve cover Tee - Back of Tee -to- Block
- Front of Tee -to- Oil Catch Can - Barb 1
- Oil Catch Can - Barb 2 -to- Intake Piping

5. Fan Install - I have 2 12" slim fan installed, im trying to figure the best way to wire them, I was going to have one on all the time and another on a switch for when it gets hot. My buddy was down and he said to simply hook both up to the stock rad fan electrical plug, and the coolant temp sensor will kick them on when needed. Whats the best option for the fans?

6. Subframe Bolt - anyone have one lying around they would sell? I snapped mine a while ago, nissan says they are discontinued, 240's are extremely rare in my area so im outta luck. I'd like to have the original, if not a grade 8 bolt will have to do I guess.

stephens14sr
11-27-2011, 12:11 PM
you spent 15k on an SR and are running isis shit.....?

Pinggg
11-27-2011, 12:17 PM
you spent 15k on an SR and are running isis shit.....?

what's wrong with ISIS?

stephens14sr
11-27-2011, 12:17 PM
didnt say there is anything wrong with it. but there is better stuff if your budget is that high for an sr.

KYZAAC
11-27-2011, 12:39 PM
i didnt spend 15k on parts, and deff not just on the SR. that`s total out of pocket spent since i started, including tools and everything else i needed. and it's prob somewhere between the 12-15 mark. the car was stripped, not a bolt left in the engine bay, interior, or anywhere else you could think of. every bolt in the car is new. i spent a few hundred on new bolts alone. i wasted alot of cash too, im not a mechanic, i never done a build before, i paralyzed my right arm in a bike accident and needed something to do in the recovery process, i had a 8k budget and that doesnt last after sr swap, full suspension, coils, wheels tires etc. i have prob a few k in parts i didnt even use. if i bought the most expensive parts i could for everything i did i`d be closer to the 30 or 40k mark.

now thats out of the way, any insight on the questions i asked?

holemilk00
11-27-2011, 12:54 PM
The BOV sometimes won't "blow off" unless the car is under load. It's not going to make that ricer sound just sitting there revving the motor.

You can bypass the heater core for now and fix it later.

You can't run the fans on the factory plug because that is for the ac condenser so your fans will only come on then. You will have to wire them through a 4 pl relay and have them switch with the ignition or get a fan controller like the DIF unit.

You spent way to much money on this and should have done more research, I have an sr car with a sil ks aero bumper and skirts, on works, with a built bottom end and I don't have 7k in my car. Hell I don't have 15k in my ls2 powered Kouki with all spl and stance suspension and volks. I can't even imagine a way to build a sr car with cheap parts and have 12-15k in it if I had to buy every tool needed. I swapped my first s13 with a 105 piece tool set from sears.

Napoleon-S13
11-29-2011, 12:56 AM
You spent way to much money on this and should have done more research, I have an sr car with a sil ks aero bumper and skirts, on works, with a built bottom end and I don't have 7k in my car. Hell I don't have 15k in my ls2 powered Kouki with all spl and stance suspension and volks. I can't even imagine a way to build a sr car with cheap parts and have 12-15k in it if I had to buy every tool needed. I swapped my first s13 with a 105 piece tool set from sears.
Prices are different in Canada, especially if you're in the boonies. My car (bone stock, no rot) + basic SR swap (basic refresh + BPUs) has me at 10k.

OP, you can setup a simple circuit with your electric fans, battery, and a switch inside. You just have to remember to flip the switch when you drive and buy a fuse. PM me if you want me to explain more.

Your MBC should be sourced close to the turbo on the hotpipe. So have a vac line from your hot-pipe, to the MBC, then from the MBC to your WG. Your WG needs a constant source to keep it from overboosting, your intake manifold won't do that.

Your FPR, Gauge, and BOV vac lines are correct though.

I agree with holemilk on the BOV and heater core questions.

As for oil catch can, I think this picture will help
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l76/stimdealer/005.jpg
Front of T goes to intake, back of T goes to top of catch can, bottom of catch can goes to block.

JDMRIDDAZ
11-29-2011, 09:06 AM
remove the bov and see if can push it
if its too hard to push
remove center spring and cut a link out of other
it should blow off fine then
also maybe a bad wastegate....
atmospheric bov doesnt do anything its crappy voltage to the sensors that cause the any issues