Write up: Fuel Surge Tank Done Right and Easy

[slider2828]

Hey Guys,

To celebrate the tech section coming back, here is the write on how to do a awesome fuel surge tank (swirl pot) system in any car. $630 total price....

System hook up

http://www.myrx7.com/images/trackcar/swirl_tank/surge.jpg

Things you'll need:

1. Fuel Relay Wiring Kit ($30)
Fuel Pump Wiring Kit [BFP-WK1] - $30.00 : Jay Racing (http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_22&products_id=63)
http://www.jayracing.com/images/products/2010%20BFP-WK1.jpg

2. Fittings for the Surge Tank. 3 of each. ($30)

You can get (QTY. 3) -6 AN fittings such as these Bosch Motorsports Fuel Pump -6AN Inlet Adapter Fitting [BFP-6IF] - $10.00 : Jay Racing (http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_12&products_id=39) for braided system
http://www.jayracing.com/images/products/BFP-6OF_1.jpg

or (QTY. 3) -6 AN fittings to Barb fittings. Like these Bosch Motorsports Fuel Pump -6AN to 5/16 Barb Adapter Fitting [BFP-6516] - $10.00 : Jay Racing (http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_12&products_id=320)
http://www.jayracing.com/images/products/2010%20BFP-6516.jpg

Its up to you. Then get the accompanying hoses like AN or Regular Fuel lines and clamps. But you need 3 hoses. ($20 - $300 cause fuel lines are cheap and AN lines are expensive.)

3. You need to get a low speed lift pump, cause they burn out a LOT less when starved for fuel such as this ($99):
http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=3454
http://www.jayracing.com/images/products/LP01.jpg

4. THIS IS THE CROWN JEWEL HERE!! ($480) Integrated Engineering Surge Tank with 044 Bosch pump. Its pretty sick how this is designed, but this is a easy system to put together without welding. The submerged pump design cools the external pump and it can be bolted straight into the chassis.
Integrated Engineering Submerged 044 Billet Surge Tank WITH PUMP (http://www.performancebyie.com/ie-submerged-044-billet-surge-tank)
http://www.performancebyie.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/980x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/i/n/integrated_engineering_044_surge_tank_with_pump_1. jpg


Hope this helps everyone.

[ch1873857]

GOOD info here. Nice. If i ever produce enough power to need one i know exactly where to look.

[S14_ZX10R]

soo 600 bucks and it comes with all lines I need plus the fuel pump

[brndck]

soo 600 bucks and it comes with all lines I need plus the fuel pump

Soooooo reading + math keeps you from having to ask stupid questions. I'm sure you're capable of using the googles?

Also bumping a thread from YEARS ago to add NOTHING constructive is kinda a no-no around here. Just fyi.

[S14_ZX10R]

My bad I'm what you call a sucker and don't want to spend money if it's not gone be used to further my goals I will proceed to use google and jays racing website


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Croustibat]

Bumping again but that is for the good cause.

Using a surge tank will be a waste of simplicity, time, space and money when holley releases the hydramat.

https://www.holley.com/news/articles/holley_debuts_new_hydramat_fuel_reservoir/

[slider2828]

Soooooo reading + math keeps you from having to ask stupid questions. I'm sure you're capable of using the googles?

Also bumping a thread from YEARS ago to add NOTHING constructive is kinda a no-no around here. Just fyi.

Yes about that.... You can go cheap ebay stuff, but the metal in this thing is thick..

Bumping again but that is for the good cause.

Using a surge tank will be a waste of simplicity, time, space and money when holley releases the hydramat.

https://www.holley.com/news/articles/holley_debuts_new_hydramat_fuel_reservoir/

That is pretty cool. But i wonder the cost per gallon, how much it will be... Cool concept though.

[Croustibat]

I am pretty sure a pickup point X shaped to fit in a standard fuel tank with a 400Lph walbro pump will be cheaper, more reliable and less complex to build than 2-3 pumps, a surge tank, various plumbing, clamps and fittings.

I sure as hell am waiting for this, because my AFR gauge picks 1 to 2 points up on track when i get anywhere lower than 20L remaining.

[slider2828]

Well finally finished this up.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/gaert/Mobile%20Uploads/20150525_140143_zpssnuugep0.jpg[/URL]

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/gaert/Mobile%20Uploads/20150525_140235_zpsgxsonwza.jpg[/URL]

[brndck]

Well finally finished this up.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/gaert/Mobile%20Uploads/20150525_140235_zpsgxsonwza.jpg[/URL]

you may wanna throw some rubber around each hose to isolate them. stainless braided lines rubbing on each other will deteriorate pretty quickly

[slider2828]

Oh great suggestion... Will do that tonight... thanks for the suggestions.

[TheRealSy90]

I'm also doing the Integrated Engineering Bosch044 surge tank.
Only problem I have is I believe if you mount it inside the trunk like that, you need to have a firewall between the trunk and the drivers compartment.
So i've been trying to figure out the best place to mount it underneath the chassis.

Which 044 pump did you go with? I know some have a build in check valve and some have an AN fitting already installed.

[slider2828]

I didn't want to deal with mounting it under the car. I guess if I had to, I would put a sealed metal box over it; that would work. Underneath the chassis in the rear is nearly impossible unless you drop the tank and mount it to the rails.

Yeah I went with the stock 044, but I bought the check valve attachment. You can see it, its the black thing connected to the pump and then to an AN -6 fitting to barb 5/16. Its all in my parts list.

[TheRealSy90]

Are you sure that a box over it would pass tech at a sanctioned event? I was always under the impression that any fuel or coolant inside the trunk had to be completely sealed from the drivers compartment, as in a full firewall across the trunk opening.

There's actually a spot in front of the gas tank on the passenger side that it fits perfectly :D when I do it i'll post some pics. I have to figure out how to hard wire the pump and the lift pump with relays, wiring is beyond me :(

[slider2828]

thats easy, but I relocated my battery to the rear so yeah.... lemme check scca

[TheRealSy90]

Mine is in the rear too. So would I just wire the power from the pumps to a relay, and then to the battery, and then use the oem signal wire to activate both pump relays?

[slider2828]

I just checked on pegasus racing. So you can run fuel lines into the cabin, but you need steel braided and nitrile coated hoses.

In terms of fluid, I am going to enclose it like a battery enclosure, which is fine. It doesn't need to be air or water tight, but as long as there is no direct exposure to the driver...

Frankly speaking the integrated engineering tank is a billet tank, so I think its pretty strong....

[TheRealSy90]

I don't know how I didn't notice this, but I was under the impression that the IE tank has to be mounted with the pump UNDER the lines/fittings, as in yours would be installed upside down from how it is supposed to be.
Your overflow/return aren't going to work correctly at the bottom of the swirl pot? Every install i've seen shows it mounted underneath something, with the pump at the "bottom".

[slider2828]

I wonder if it matters... I will check with IE

[TheRealSy90]

I mean, wouldn't you need the overflow at the top to function as an overflow?

[slider2828]

Yup asked and you are corrected. Oh wellz, had to make a bulkhead, technically a enclosure for it now.

[TheRealSy90]

I guess now you can just mount it upside down to the top of the enclosure lol :D

[slider2828]

I agree or mount it vertically sticking up. might be easier to build a bracket that way....

[slider2828]

OK so after further research I was using steel braided fuel lines from summit for my entire fuel system. The lines I was using was from spectre racing which is fine for all return lines and over flow lines.

BUT they don't work for the feed lines as those need to are for carburetor only. So you will need to go full AN lines for JUST the feed lines.....

I found an awesome article that really puts everything together from KA-T and ghostchild316. (Thanks this was very helpful).

OK I still get alotta msgs asking me how I did my fuel line setup.Maybe a write up will help reduce them :lol:

AN sizes can be kind of confusing at first, since all they say is -5,-8,-10, and so on.
Well they go in increments of 16th of an inch.

So for example, -4an = 1/4", -8an = 1/2".
I like to add 16 at the end and go from there, like this - 4/16=1/4", -6/16=3/8", -12/16=3/4"

The factory steel fuel lines are 8mm, or about 5/16". So -5an fittings work perfect.

The list below is what I used so I could run -6an braided lines,fuel rail,filter,and fittings with stock lines-

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/tubenut.jpg
Earl's -5an tube nut,pair - EAR-581805ERL

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/tubesleeve.jpg
Earl's -5an tube sleeve,pair -EAR-581905ERL

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/reducerunion.jpg
Earl's -6an to -5an reducer(2 req) - EAR-991907ERL

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/flaretool.jpg
Summit® 37 Degree Flare Tool Set - SUM-900311

*NOTE-The summit flaring tool is the cheapest you'll find that can do the proper flare for AN fittings. The best one you can get that isn't super expensive and can do stainless steel tubing is made by Rigid. It goes for a little over $100 if you shop around. It is used in the aircraft industry meaning it's good enough for your 240SX.

*A good tubing cutter from any auto parts store. I prefer the kind that are made completely from metal,not plastic.

When you cut tubing make sure to deburr it,inside and out. I used a small round file for the inside and a flat one for the outside.

Also I like to use a little bit of oil when flaring tubing and assembling the hose ends to the braided hose.Gear oil is what I had sitting around so I used that.

Then slip on the -5an tube nut and sleeve BEFORE you flare it!!!

*Make sure you have enough room to slip the sleeve back far enough so you can put the flaring tool on.Also it has to be square to the tubing or your flare will be off and may have to redo it.

* The tube has to be flush with the tool or it may create problems when you tighten your fittings.


It should look kinda like this when done-(thnx ms paint!)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/nutsleeve.jpg

This is the end result after doing both feed and return
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/DSC05364EDITED.jpg

From here on you can run whatever fuel system components you wish.


This is what I used when I pieced my setup(with pt #s)
4 90* -6an hose ends (SUM-220687)
3 straight hose ends (SUM-220690)
1 45* hose end (SUM-220686)
6 ft SS braided -6an hose (SUM-230606)
4 -6an straight cut o-ring to -6an male (SUM-220166)***2 were supplied already with fuel rail, the other 2 are needed for the regulator***
1 External Hex Head Port Plug with O-Ring Seal, -6 AN (EAR-581406ERL)
1 System 1in-line fuel filter, -6an (SOF-200-201406)
1 Aeromotive A1000-6 Adjustable FPR (AEI-13109)
1Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge (AEI-15633)
2 Earl's Performance Cushioned Hose Clamps*sold in pairs*(EAR-171032ERL)
1 AMS/Turbo240.com -6an Fuel rail
4 MSD/Delphi 75lb injectors

All but the injectors and fuel rail were purchased from summitracing.com


What it looks like when it comes together-
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/ghostchild316/DSC05362.jpg

There you have it ppl.I feel this is a "more proper" and safer method than running compression fittings.I know other ppl have used them before,but I try to stay away from them as much as I can.

Any questions,post here


Good luck and have fun!

[TheRealSy90]

Hey did you ever mount the surge tank the other way around? I still haven't done mine haha.