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View Full Version : AIr Fuel Spark... no start WhAt dA F*%$!???


Slayde
09-22-2011, 03:25 PM
Update re re re set the timing got it to start and rev when its cold runs rich as shiat but after it warms up with my foot to the floor it won't go above 600 rpms.

I have a 92 240sx hatch powered by a rebuilt KA24DE. It currently has 192xxx miles on the chassis and 12,900 on the rebuilt ka. Not bad considering it was my first rebuild and I have given the ol' girl hell since I've had her running. But as I continue to try and make her a better car and fix things as they break (as I break them) she spites me and something else breaks. Anyway that's between me and her. :whip:

Here's the symptoms: air fuel and spark... no start. Sometimes sputters at the beginning of start up but never catches. Got it to start twice once with maf once without but with many things changed between the two times one of which was a bad injector doughnut. Once w/maf accelerated perfect no misfires but had black smoke, decelled perfectly but with white/gray smoke and did not idle. W/o maf black smoke all the time sluggish accell and decell wouldn't go over 2500rpm (which I know is normal) still no idle.

Heres what I've tried:
Compression test 150 156 154 152 in that order from 1-4
Different working maf after repairing the wires
4 different ECTs
2 working ECUs and tried mine in a buddies car which fired up perfectly
New spark plug wires and plugs
Newer tested and working injectors and fuel rail no o-ring or doughnut leaks
Checked all vaccum caps and lines all 2 of them FPR and Break booster (EGR deleted)
2 tested distributors w/ newer cap and rotor set motor to TDC when installed
New battery
2 working coil assys
Tested the voltage at the various sensor plugs all w/in specs

Here's what happened... I was leaving for work and was on the on ramp for the highway when she started backfiring and sputtering :wtf: then the temp guage suddenly dropped to C then shot up to H :eek: so at that point I stopped shut her off and went under the hood anly to find my waterpump belt shredded and dangling by a few little strips of rubber. Then I noticed the maf wires had been stripped of insulation but not broken. I separated the wires from eachother so that they did not touch. I let her cool off for about 15 min spinning the water pump by hand. The temp dropped quickly. I just wanted to get her out of sight from the highway. So I backed her up the on ramp the longer she ran the worse she got but the temp guage never got back to H. When she died we were completely blocking the on ramp on a blind corner up hill and I could hear cars coming so I got out to push and couldn't push hard enough from the drivers door. So I cut the wheels the way I wanted her to go but my streatched tires caught the edge of the pavement tuning the wheels toward the ditch and away she went I dove through the window and grabbed the e brake only to slide another five feet down the deep ditch. I ended up walking back to my house and driving my truck to work. I work 3pm to 12am so after work in the dark I returned to my spiteful ditch diving car, pulled her out with the truck, changed the belt and after about 15 minutes of sputtering for half a second then dying only to sputter again and again... she started and I drove her home. She was spewing black smoke backfiring and wouldn't idle. I had to run a stop sign but I made it the 2.4 miles back home. Since then I've got her started 2 times after 5000 different combinations of sensors and whatnot switched swapped and unplugged. Nothing is consistant except that she will not start dispite having Air Fuel and Spark. I am almost ready to sell what I can and be done with this infernal machine. This is my last ditch (no punn intended) effort to save her. Any ideas will be appritiated.

jskateborders
09-22-2011, 03:43 PM
compression test the motor and go from there.

Slayde
09-22-2011, 03:58 PM
compression test the motor and go from there.

Forgot to mention that 150 156 154 152 in that order from 1-4

jskateborders
09-22-2011, 09:11 PM
After your problem? If so, check your timing and check continuity from your ecu to your maf. When two exposed wires touch it can cause a short somewhere down the line.

Slayde
09-23-2011, 07:02 PM
Maf wiring key on engine off 1.26 volts which is within spec goes all the way to the ecu which has batt voltage and ground continuity and compression tested again with same results. I'm still stumped. A new thing which I could have just not noticed is that I can hear it firing and it almost catches but never does. This is after about 15-20 seconds of cranking but I don't want to burn up my starter so I stop. Any more ideas? Thank you for your input keep giving more please.

jskateborders
09-24-2011, 08:05 AM
by ect do you mean coolant temp sensor? Also note that the more you crank without starting, the higher the possibility of flooding becomes, so also check that.

Slayde
09-24-2011, 07:56 PM
by ect do you mean coolant temp sensor? Also note that the more you crank without starting, the higher the possibility of flooding becomes, so also check that.


Engine coolant temp sensor yes. I've checked the plugs after attpempting to start it like that and it is not flooding I alternate WOT which shuts off power to the injectors at start up and closed throttle to keep that from happening.

Slayde
09-27-2011, 11:24 AM
Still nothing? No more ideas something I've missed? :sadwavey:

modulation
09-27-2011, 12:04 PM
Change your oil I'd bet there is coolant in it.
Sounds like a bad head-gasket.

Isn't your compression difference between 1 and 2 over factory spec?

Also check your battery voltage, if it's under so many volts the ecu won't activate the fuel pump.

Slayde
10-10-2011, 05:49 PM
Its not a bad head gasket compression is good no coolant in oil no oil in coolant

Slayde
11-26-2011, 10:54 AM
Bump? Its been months since I could look at the car I am so frustrated. Anyone else have a theory?

Jonathan Rivera
11-26-2011, 01:50 PM
if the wires from your maf sensor happend to touch during your incident, you might of had a short, in between the mass air flow sensor all the way to your ecu, so you need to dismantle that harness all of it, but first thing first . you have to check if the pins on your ecu for the maf sensor are sending signal, 12v , and continuity, to your sensor. your problem has to be from the original source were it started wich was your water pump belt ripping and opening your mass air flow wires, if i read correctly.

Slayde
11-27-2011, 10:09 AM
I have already tested the voltage between the maf and the ECU no short in between 0 ohms

Walperstyle
11-27-2011, 10:11 AM
In the event you have incorrect timing, you can double check my videos. So many people have no clue about timing.

UPPER
upper-timing-explained ka24de 2.4L nissan - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofV4eghOP_w)

LOWER
lower-timing-explained, ka24det. Factory Settings - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbaFoxm-5lE)

sorry, I don't have a video of distributor yet.

r33nota240
11-30-2011, 06:39 PM
if its a 3 wire maf one is ground that goes to ecu, one is signal and one is 12v switched if any one of these is messed up it wont start on its own try putting a little gas in the intake pipe to get it kicked over just had a problem on my roommates car. s13 with sr20det