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View Full Version : Do these water neck adapter work????


Zenki_cb
08-22-2011, 04:06 PM
Hey whats up zilvians I'm wondering if anyone on here has ever used any of these adapters when they install there after market water temp gauge. Any feedback would be great. I want to make sure they work accurate before I buy one. Thanks for looking.

Stance ST7 Water Neck Adapter Nissan SR20DET (http://www.frsport.com/Stance-ST7-Water-Neck-Adapter-Nissan-SR20DET_p_12507.html#0)

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=359089

toplevel
08-22-2011, 04:14 PM
Yes they "work"

Stance makes good products.

cdlong
08-22-2011, 07:36 PM
Make sure it's the right threads for your sensor. I have a Greddy adapter sitting in my garage because it's 1/8 bspt, not the npt thread I need.

s14unimog
08-23-2011, 11:06 AM
Depending on the gauge scale (which is usually up to 220*F) I don't think they are a great pick-up point for the sensor. I feel its more important to tell what's coming into the engine rather than what coming out of the engine. My thought also seems to parallel Nissan's; look where their sensors are located. I drilled an tapped my for thermostat housing for my sensor.

codyace
08-23-2011, 11:13 AM
Depending on the gauge scale (which is usually up to 220*F) I don't think they are a great pick-up point for the sensor. I feel its more important to tell what's coming into the engine rather than what coming out of the engine. My thought also seems to parallel Nissan's; look where their sensors are located. I drilled an tapped my for thermostat housing for my sensor.

I personally disagree with this, but my thought process may not be very well thought out hehe.

I like knowing what the temps are coming OUT of the engine, as one can only assume that by having good temp on the outlet, that the inlet would also be good (and vice versa). If the radiator is working and dumping 180* water into the engine, and it's coming out at 250*, you'd never know...whereas on the outlet, you'd know for sure.


I personally run a similar one to the stance from CustomSteel...works great.

theboy
08-23-2011, 11:26 AM
the stance one is good, but it doenst support the water neck completely. One bolt is left out. The second one is the design your looking for. Def makes a nice one that FrSport sells. Thats my choice.

codyace
08-26-2011, 09:37 AM
the stance one is good, but it doenst support the water neck completely. One bolt is left out. The second one is the design your looking for. Def makes a nice one that FrSport sells. Thats my choice.


Those 3 bolts are plenty fine to hold the water neck up, I wouldn't loose to much sleep over that 4th lower one at all.

I have a custom steel one on mine:
Turbo Install Goodies (http://customsteel.com/sr20/html/turbo_install_goodies.html)

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album08/Image00001.sized.jpg

s14unimog
08-26-2011, 01:31 PM
I personally disagree with this, but my thought process may not be very well thought out hehe. I like knowing what the temps are coming OUT of the engine, as one can only assume that by having good temp on the outlet, that the inlet would also be good (and vice versa). If the radiator is working and dumping 180* water into the engine, and it's coming out at 250*, you'd never know...whereas on the outlet, you'd know for sure. I personally run a similar one to the stance from CustomSteel...works great.

And you and I have actually gone back and forth about this before. I still stand with Nissan on this one. I still want to know the temperatures my ECU is basing adjustments off of. Can't argue with that. Plus I'm running an S14 water neck so my turbo is dumping its return right there...

you can see my aftermarket probe on the back of the thermostat housing in this picture.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v721/s14unimog/BreakDown04-22-11006.jpg

Hashiriya415
08-26-2011, 01:48 PM
^ So the thermostat housing is plenty thick enough to just drill and tap? no need to weld?
BTW, why would anyone spend over $50 getting that little block, when you could easily get a bung welded to the water outlet neck. Total cost under $20 parts and labor.

s14unimog
08-26-2011, 02:02 PM
oh yeah, it's probably 3/8" thick right in that area. If you do it carefully, like I did, you can be sure to only expose a small side of the probe to the coolant flow as to not inhibit flow rate.

^I think its b/c some people prefer the idea that it was thought out and tested before their build sees it. For this part/solution, I think it's a case of what was easiest to manufacture. Since, in my opinion, its on the wrong side of the engine.

codyace
08-26-2011, 02:12 PM
oh yeah, it's probably 3/8" thick right in that area. If you do it carefully, like I did, you can be sure to only expose a small side of the probe to the coolant flow as to not inhibit flow rate.

Good point there too


^I think its b/c some people prefer the idea that it was thought out and tested before their build sees it.

Ya know, for as much stuff as I make and have welded, I actually never considered having a simple bung welded on and calling it a day. Doh!



I couldn't remember if it was you or someone else haha. I can certainly see both sides, I guess I'm a bit redneck in my thought process, and in the grand scheme of things I do wonder 'how much' different there really is, as when I look at my logs (obviously from the pass side of the head) they really do mimic the sensor on the driver side.

s14unimog
08-26-2011, 02:21 PM
^ yeah, you and I have gone back in forth over the years on more than a few subjects; lol. All in good spirits and I'm sure we'd get along well outside this place. Either the case, if they're close that's good too. I run a Nistune system so I have no interface to reference readily but the logged sessions are what counts anyways, we don't exactly get the time to look at our gauge when its going down.

Sidewiser
12-08-2013, 12:27 AM
Hey there im new to this forum but not new to the game. When i first saw this adapter i thought maybe i could use it as a coolant feed to the turbo rather than buying the s14sr water neck for my s13sr. Has anyone done that with these could that work the same? The motor i bought had the origianal coolant feed to the turbo canceled (sawed off) and im assuming heater core also cancelled hence the u shaped hose connection. the turbo was shot and maybe the coolant to the turbo was also cancelled. a day in the life.:eek3:

livelovesole
12-08-2013, 03:42 PM
is the stance water neck adapter good to use for a feed line for a breather tank ?

Mikester
12-09-2013, 07:20 AM
Hey there im new to this forum but not new to the game. When i first saw this adapter i thought maybe i could use it as a coolant feed to the turbo rather than buying the s14sr water neck for my s13sr. Has anyone done that with these could that work the same? The motor i bought had the origianal coolant feed to the turbo canceled (sawed off) and im assuming heater core also cancelled hence the u shaped hose connection. the turbo was shot and maybe the coolant to the turbo was also cancelled. a day in the life.:eek3:

First of all, you should post an intro thread before digging up a 2-3yr old topic and asking a question. However, I do applaud you for searching- definitely a positive trait ;)

Second- the line behind the engine is the coolant return, not the feed- The feed comes off the block near the oil feed. However, to answer your question- YES you can save the cost of an S14 neck & use a Stance, DIF or any other type water neck adapter to run a coolant return line. Here is mine:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7267/8156627590_e2f3e6ef68_b_d.jpg

To adapt it, you'll need to get a couple of fittings from Summit as shown in the pic, but it works beautifully; and I like that it brings the water neck out a hair.

is the stance water neck adapter good to use for a feed line for a breather tank ?

Due to the location of the port when it's installed, I'd have to say "no"... I would think that the OEM fitting right there on the top of the water neck would be the best bet.

livelovesole
12-09-2013, 09:21 AM
^ thanks for the input. Just tryna avoid tapping into it.

japslapsilvia
12-09-2013, 09:37 AM
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7267/8156627590_e2f3e6ef68_b_d.jpg




Just an FYI it appears that you have teflon tape on the AN Portion of that fitting, Thats a No No AN fittings dont require Teflon Tape, they seal Via the 37* flare. Just Pipe Threads need.

Mikester
12-09-2013, 09:43 AM
^^I'm aware of this (I work on aircraft instrumentation systems for a living)... and usually only use proper flare fitting lube on -AN fittings. However, in my experience with cars, I've found that using a bit of thread tape (just on threads, not near flare) in tighter spots seems to give me a warm & fuzzy lol... Mostly due to the location of that particular 45* fitting. Good catch, and thanks for looking out dude~

codyace
12-09-2013, 09:08 PM
^^I'm aware of this (I work on aircraft instrumentation systems for a living)... and usually only use proper flare fitting lube on -AN fittings. However, in my experience with cars, I've found that using a bit of thread tape (just on threads, not near flare) in tighter spots seems to give me a warm & fuzzy lol... Mostly due to the location of that particular 45* fitting. Good catch, and thanks for looking out dude~

Still no need, it can't possibly seal as if the 37* flare joint is loose, it'll piss out the back of the female side anyway.