SR20DET gurus, need your help!

[StryfeS13]

My friend recently purchased a car from here, which was a total rip off. It was just poorly put together, and had a bad tune (wont say who), and it blew the #2 piston, and what not.

Fast forward a month, and I built him a new motor and everything, we just got it in the car, started up, and it runs, but not perfectly. I'm not super familiar with SR's, as I come from KA's.

Here are the issues:
- Idle lopes up and down, but when car is first started, idle is solid.
- Exhaust burns eyes (mega rich)

^ Pretty much it's running, but not well.

I have already checked for boost leaks, only found a small one that I fixed. I also set the fuel pressure @ 40 PSI (I read around here it should be 36-43)

Here are the specs of the motor if it helps...

- S13 Blacktop SR20
- T28 (maybe off an S15? it's ball bearing)
- Z32 MAF
- 550CC Injectors
- FMIC, etc
- Nismo FPR
- Stock Cams
- Redline ECU Tune (he got it off here...I believe they are now called EFI Specialist)

Could the Z32 MAF being wired wrong cause this? Should I raise, or lower fuel pressure?

Also, possibly the tune could be bad? 02 Sensor?

I wish he had a wideband...but unfortunately he doesn't.

EDIT: Also, it has an AVC-R if that makes a difference.

[Om1kron]

sounds like it's his tune, most people who have those fancy ass ecu's that are normally "made for so and such setup" are not made for those motors. Silveman's s13 had a mines ecu or some shit supposedly for a similar setup you mention, his car made 128 hp on the dyno.

is the timing at 15 degree's, is the tps set properly around .45v?, what are the ohms from the two pin temp sensor on the water neck that tells the ecu how hot or cold the motor is.

any codes on the ecu? Sounds like he needs to get a dyno tune as soon as possible.

[StryfeS13]

That's what I was thinking...

Timing is @ 15 degrees, yeah. I haven't checked the tps voltage yet, and I also haven't check the ohms of the CTS (if thats what you're talking about) because it's brand new.

[StryfeS13]

^ Checked tps. .45V closed throttle, 4.16 WOT

[StryfeS13]

Anyone else that can help?

[Sileighty_85]

make sure the MAFS is wired correctly, If you mix up the 12V and the signal is will run stupid Rich

[StryfeS13]

I honestly am not sure if it is wired correctly. Every single guide on the internet is different, and I don't know which one to follow.

It is wired like this(forgive me for not fixing the previous owners "crimping" skills):

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/2-2.jpg


Looking at the plug from left to right:
-White is first
-Brown is second
-Black is third
-Black/White is fourth

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/8-1.jpg

WHITE wire is crimped to WHITE wire
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/3-2.jpg

BROWN wire is to GROUND
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/5-1.jpg

BLACK wire is crimped to BLACK wire
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/7-1.jpg

BLACK/WHITE is crimped to BLACK/WHITE wire
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/9.jpg


PLEASEEE tell me that this is wired wrong. I hope it is.

Pic of spark plugs...

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/1-2.jpg

Also, I timed the motor like so:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF3990Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF3991Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF3992Small.jpg

[phaiwezzie]

I had the same problem a year ago, it was a leak before the o2 sensor ( manifold to turbo gasket) if exhaust gases are escaping before the o2 sensor can read them, it will behave like this. that or bad o2 maybe. good luck

[StryfeS13]

Checked for exhaust leaks as you said. Found none. However, the 02 was loose so I tightened that bitch down.

I also tightened all clamps, couplers, etc. Checked over everything twice, etc. Even started it without the AVC-R plugged in, and no luck.

White smoke pours out of the exhaust when you rev it. Possible blown turbo, or head gasket? It has a cometic MLS headgasket, maybe it didn't seal..

EDIT: I failed to mention that we used all the intercooler piping,etc from the old motor. The old motor blew piston #2 and coated everything in oil, so the white smoke MIGHT be the oil getting burned through the piping. (i know oil smoke is usually blue, but just maybe)

[Brinton]

triple check maf wiring and make sure ground is secure

[StryfeS13]

I did. Maf seems to be wired correctly. B goes to white, C goes to chassis ground, D goes to harness ground, and E goes to black/white.

[StryfeS13]

Here's a video.

YouTube - P.O.S. SR20DET (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxcuv5ngZR4)

[KiLLeR2001]

Z32 MAF:

A. Nothing goes here
B. 5 volt output read wire
C. Ground
D. Ground
E. 12 volt Positve
F. Nothing Goes here

[StryfeS13]

I have solved the hesitation, and smoking issue.

When the previous motor blew up, it didnt only coat the intercooler piping in oil, but it FILLED the intercooler with about a quart of oil.

This is what came out of the piping and intercooler....

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4028Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4030Small.jpg

Still has a rough idle, I'm thinking this may be because of a boost leak. I can't get the car to hold 20 PSI while boost leak testing. It only gets to about 10 PSI.

[fliprayzin240sx]

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF3992Small.jpg
[/B]

CAS Timing is off...the line/divot is supposed to line up on the 2nd dot. Basically, when you inser it, its supposed to be lined up the way it is right now. When you put it it, the gear will spin to line up from the first to the second dot.

After you do that, double check the timing with a timing gun. On the crank pulley, timing should be on the 2nd dot from the left.

http://www.frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank-Angle-Sensor--CAS--Timing-on-the-SR20DET-Engine_t_25.html

[StryfeS13]

^ FRSport says,

Looking at the CAS with the black cap towards your body, rotate the shaft until the right notch lines up with the notch on the CAS housing. Put the CAS back into the head carefully. If this procedure is done correctly, the second notch on the shaft should now line up with the notch on the housing, and the CAS position (can rotate it +-30 or so degrees...) sAnd that's what I did? I lined up the notch with the right notch (I'm assuming they mean the notch on the right), and put it in. And then as they also said, it should align with the other notch, which it did.

And also the picture on FRsport is showing it lined up with the dot closest to the notch? Not the one that is next to it...

Also, timing is stable at 15 BTDC, and can go like 20 degrees either way... would this be possible if I installed the CAS wrong?

Nissan diagram:
http://www.s-chassis.com/resources/wiki/images/c/ce/CAS_Alignment.jpg

My notch:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF3992Small.jpg

FRSport notch:
http://www.frsport.com/writeups/srcas2.jpg



Are you sure it's in wrong?

[fliprayzin240sx]

My bad, its right...I was thinking itll spin the other way. Been a while since I've had to re-stab an SR.

[StryfeS13]

Okay, so today I:

- Checked spark plugs - looked kinda lean
- Checked gap - gapped down to .028
- Checked again for boost leaks - found a few
- Figured out BOV leaks
- Re-wired Z32 MAF with solder instead of stupid crimping
- Found a BUNCH of oil inside of the lower intake manifold
- Double and triple checked timing...

The idle is still on and off. It idles right sometimes, and other times it hops up and down, and then gets steady again after a few minutes. Car doesn't smell as much, but still smokes a little white out the exhaust and exhaust manifold area when you rev it. Anyone have any ideas?

We called Khiem @ EFISpecialist and he said the tune might be wrong, or something, which can cause it to run lean. And also that we should check/replace the 02 sensor.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4031Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4033Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4034Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4035Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4036Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4037Small.jpg
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x343/Sickfire/DSCF4038Small.jpg

[sebastianwrx]

bump...anyone can share any idea?

[Om1kron]

with all of that oil in the lower intake manifold I wouldn't be surprised if the IACV is fucking caked with oil, take it off and spray some electrical cleaner in there (from autozone, non flamable) and shoot that bitch till it is clean.

when finished let it dry, then spray some wd-40 up at the spring so it can re-lubricate. that electrical cleaner will eat all of the lube up in there and will cause it to stick.


I'm sure you probably have oil caked up in a lot of the vacuum hoses as well, probably a good idea to replace what you can since it's cheap.

[StryfeS13]

with all of that oil in the lower intake manifold I wouldn't be surprised if the IACV is fucking caked with oil, take it off and spray some electrical cleaner in there (from autozone, non flamable) and shoot that bitch till it is clean.

when finished let it dry, then spray some wd-40 up at the spring so it can re-lubricate. that electrical cleaner will eat all of the lube up in there and will cause it to stick.


I'm sure you probably have oil caked up in a lot of the vacuum hoses as well, probably a good idea to replace what you can since it's cheap.

Bro we had the intake manifold off of the car, of COURSE I cleaned the IACV out lol. It's all clean.

Didn't check the vacuum hoses though, we'll check those out!

In the mean time...the tune is currently being sent to EFI Specialist to be checked.

[Om1kron]

word up, yeah I saw you took the lower intake mani off but you never know. some people get so excited with finding a small problem they slap everything back together and wonder whats wrong lol.

[StryfeS13]

Just wanna let you all know the car runs well and my friend finally got to drive it home from my garage.

Not gonna go into detail but there was a bunch of shit wrong with this car and we spent countless hours into fixing it and now it runs well. :)

I will also say that my friend bought the car from "feems13" on here, he stated the SR20 had less than 50K miles. Well, the car lasted for less than 10 minutes on the grapevine before popping and cylinder 2 read ZERO PSI. After the sale was made, feems13 deleted all pictures on the for sale thread and etc. Big thumbs down for being so dishonest about the car!