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daftphunk
01-14-2011, 01:47 AM
Okay, I have looked and looked for this answer but have not come upon anything concrete, so I am looking for a little help here. If I didn't look hard enough, please just point me in the correct direction!

Anyways, I have an S13 SR20DET, Blacktop. I needed a new o2 sensor and needed it ASAP so I just went to my local AutoZone. I read many different forums and came up with a bunch of different answers but decided to go get a 300ZX TT o2 sensor. Now it's been awhile since I got it, but I'm thinking it was the 92-93' year model. It was the Bosch sensor part number 13091 found here: Bosch/Oxygen Sensor (13091) | Oxygen Sensor | 1993 Nissan/Datsun 300ZX 6 Cylinders C 3.0L Turbo DOHC | AutoZone.com (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Bosch-Oxygen-Sensor/1993-Nissan-Datsun-300ZX/_/N-izyatZ8gcvp?counter=1&filterByKeyWord=o2&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=231927_173119_1784_)

Anyways, it plugged into the harness alright and into the bung - it's the fat sensor.

What I'm wondering is, even though it plugged right in, is this the correct O2 sensor? My car has been running rich it seems like to me ever since I've been running it and I am thinking that maybe the o2 sensor plugged in but doesn't function properly with the ECU and what not.

Just want to make sure before I go out and order an S13 OEM o2 sensor and end up with this one just sitting around.

KiLLeR2001
01-14-2011, 03:09 AM
Which ECU do you have?

edit: E5 is the blacktop ECU and 62 is the redtop ECU.

daftphunk
01-14-2011, 03:19 AM
I have the E5 ECU

KiLLeR2001
01-14-2011, 03:22 AM
Sounds good then. You have the correct ECU/O2 Sensor combo. Seems like your running rich problem is something else.

daftphunk
01-14-2011, 03:38 AM
Hrm, any ideas what it could be?

My setup is a Blacktop SR20DET with S15 turbo, FMIC, HKS Hi Power, Hi Flow Cat, Nismo FPR, Stock 370CC Injectors, Megan Turbo Manifold, HKS SSQV and some shit intake that came with the engine.

My FPR is hooked up to a gauge and reads at ~37psi constantly. I have a good condition MAFS.. What else could be going on to cause it to run rich? I'll be buying a wide band shortly and then hooking that up to see what my AFR is, but I mean I smell gas so I assume I'm running rich.

nismoman
01-14-2011, 07:53 AM
Hrm, any ideas what it could be?

My setup is a Blacktop SR20DET with S15 turbo, FMIC, HKS Hi Power, Hi Flow Cat, Nismo FPR, Stock 370CC Injectors, Megan Turbo Manifold, HKS SSQV and some shit intake that came with the engine.

My FPR is hooked up to a gauge and reads at ~37psi constantly. I have a good condition MAFS.. What else could be going on to cause it to run rich? I'll be buying a wide band shortly and then hooking that up to see what my AFR is, but I mean I smell gas so I assume I'm running rich.

Two common problems that cause sr's to run rich is the coolant temp sensor and boost leaks

daftphunk
01-14-2011, 05:04 PM
Two common problems that cause sr's to run rich is the coolant temp sensor and boost leaks

Coolant temp sensor would be that $25 small sensor correct? Could it be that mine is going bad then, seeing as I've also been having troubles with my car overheating even after replacing my water pump and thermostat and thoroughly bleeding out the system.

Doesn't seem like my car has a boost leak, every things all tightened up and it runs very well, except for the fact that I Think it's running rich.

-----

With this new information i have thought of a few things. So I have a blacktop s13 sr20det in my s14. I have a wiring specialties harness as well.

So I'm wondering, since I have my s14 cluster I need the sensor for sending the coolant temp readings correct?

I ran my car for awhile without a thermostat cause it stated that it was over heating. After removing it, it ran a little bit below the middle. I decided that it was time to put one in and haven't gotten it to run without overheating yet, whether that be air pockets or whatever. My water pump is fine and thermostat in good working condition. Flushed my radiator out too. Head gasket doesn't seem to be blown but I can't drive it to get a compression test till I fix this.

Could all of this headache be pointed into the direction of my coolant temp sensor and the sender?!
Kinda hoping it's that simple

nismoman
01-14-2011, 05:41 PM
Well the coolant temp sensor is the $25 part and it only sends a signal to the ecu. There is a separate one for the guage. Neither of these will affect the actual temperature of the engine. The one the ecu reads can cause alot of funny problems because the ecu gets a false signal or no signal making it run on a cold engine setting or safer setting which is usually a richer setting.

daftphunk
01-14-2011, 05:57 PM
Thanks. Yeah I understand that neither will affect the temp of the engine but I'm wondering since I probably have the wrong sender if it's just sending the incorrect temp to my gauge cluster?

I really should get an aftermarket gauge for that.

Anyways I'll prob be replacing both anyways, just wondering about some input.

KiLLeR2001
01-14-2011, 06:06 PM
if you have an s14 cluster you'll want the s14 240sx temperature switch, for the coolant temp sensor i believe the '96 300zx turbo one works with the SR ecu

daftphunk
01-16-2011, 10:09 PM
Went ahead and ordered the parts.

Curious though, which one is the sender and Which one actually reads the temps? I assume the single prong one is the sender and the two prong the one that reads the temp, is that right?

KiLLeR2001
01-16-2011, 10:57 PM
Went ahead and ordered the parts.

Curious though, which one is the sender and Which one actually reads the temps? I assume the single prong one is the sender and the two prong the one that reads the temp, is that right?

Yes, single prong to cluster and two prong goes to ECU

genericforumname
01-16-2011, 11:05 PM
I don't know if you've looked but have you taken the cover off of your ecu to make sure its not chipped? my clip came with a chipped ecu and mine runs rich as well but I also have new cams and changed the blowoff valve to recirculate. does yours idle high on start up?

daftphunk
01-17-2011, 12:06 AM
Yeah pretty sure it's not chipped. I got it from one of my buddies and he said his car was never tuned or anything.

I don't have new cams but my BOV does recirc. It idles high on start up, at ~1500 and goes down to ~1000. Ever since I put my new thermostat in though have bled it out, it got a bit better.