Onephatclk
01-10-2011, 11:25 AM
Ok, let me give you a little history first. I changed the timing chain on my car about 3 month ago due to chain rattle/big oil leak. After I changed it the leak went away, but there was rattle at start up. As time progressed the rattle became more prevalent. On Christmas Eve the car had a really loud rattle on my way to work. While getting off the freeway off ramp the car lost power. I tried jump starting it, but I was pretty confident the battery was ok. To add to this, the week prior I noticed that when the car was idle it would run fine for 5 seconds and then the rpm drop to almost stalling then back to normal. It kept doing that.
Fast forward, I tore apart the car and noticed the timing guide was in pieces but the main culprit was the nub where the tensioner presses against broke off. I put everything back together and went to start the car. The car turned but didn’t start.
Things I have done,
• New battery – tested with voltmeter at 12.47
• Cleaned all ground points – tested the engine and starter ground points and all came back at 12.47
• Double checked timing – TDC on compression , cam gear pointing pretty much straight up and dizzy pointing at #1 spark plug
• Code on ECU was 11 which mean crank postion sensor. I tested point A and point D per the manual and they seemed ok.
• Pulled starter and took to autozone – they ran it several times and it had zero issues.
• Checked wires and distributer cap with voltmeter and they were ok.
• Fuel pump turns on and pulled fuel filter to see if there was gas and there was. That all the testing done for fuel
• Tried doing compression but the car won’t turn anymore
• Tested Ignition coil and it was fine
So as mentioned the car turned in the beginning but now it doesn’t or barely turns once. It usually just makes a click when I turn on the ignition. Since the cark isn’t turning over I can’t check compression.
When I turn the crank by hand it’s now very hard to turn. I can only turn it with a breaker bar (I was able to turn it by hand prior to the new chain). When I turn the crank I can feel vibration as if the crank is struggling to turn.
I did all of this when it was raining off and on so I’m not sure if moisture plays a role.
Before I throw my truck off the bridge I want to see if I’m missing something
Fast forward, I tore apart the car and noticed the timing guide was in pieces but the main culprit was the nub where the tensioner presses against broke off. I put everything back together and went to start the car. The car turned but didn’t start.
Things I have done,
• New battery – tested with voltmeter at 12.47
• Cleaned all ground points – tested the engine and starter ground points and all came back at 12.47
• Double checked timing – TDC on compression , cam gear pointing pretty much straight up and dizzy pointing at #1 spark plug
• Code on ECU was 11 which mean crank postion sensor. I tested point A and point D per the manual and they seemed ok.
• Pulled starter and took to autozone – they ran it several times and it had zero issues.
• Checked wires and distributer cap with voltmeter and they were ok.
• Fuel pump turns on and pulled fuel filter to see if there was gas and there was. That all the testing done for fuel
• Tried doing compression but the car won’t turn anymore
• Tested Ignition coil and it was fine
So as mentioned the car turned in the beginning but now it doesn’t or barely turns once. It usually just makes a click when I turn on the ignition. Since the cark isn’t turning over I can’t check compression.
When I turn the crank by hand it’s now very hard to turn. I can only turn it with a breaker bar (I was able to turn it by hand prior to the new chain). When I turn the crank I can feel vibration as if the crank is struggling to turn.
I did all of this when it was raining off and on so I’m not sure if moisture plays a role.
Before I throw my truck off the bridge I want to see if I’m missing something