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silvia14
07-23-2003, 09:32 AM
managed to take off the rear links to get the bushings and new RUCA installed, not successful no matter how hard i tried. i have a torque wrench, set it to max, and it maxed out.

should i take all the troubles to rent a air gun (impact wrench) with compressor?

or any recommened lubicator will help me?

thanks

Dousan_PG
07-23-2003, 09:36 AM
liquid wrench or pb blaster works
get a HUUUUGE breaker bar (or add extension to a wrench/breaker bar) and go at it

:) it will come off, just its on there REALLY GOOD. giant breaker bars are your friend!

AKADriver
07-23-2003, 09:41 AM
Werd. get a breaker bar, add your jack handle to the end as a cheater bar. Those bolts are torqued down HARD, especially on an aging 240!

It's not a good idea to use your torque wrench as a breaker bar... you'll mess up the torque setting. This is especially critical on a click-type torque wrench where you can't see if it's still accurate or adjust it back to zero if it isn't.

sykikchimp
07-23-2003, 04:46 PM
I think I understand.. but just to clarify..

Are u having trouble removing:

1. Bolts from links where they attach to the rear upright?

2. Bolts that attach links to chassis?

silvia14
07-24-2003, 08:14 PM
Bolts that attach links to chassis

Dousan_PG
07-24-2003, 08:23 PM
rear links? er they dont attach to chassis. they attach to subframe which is bolted to chassis.

silvia14
07-24-2003, 08:56 PM
ok rear links to the subframe then.

oh yah i need to unblot the rear subframe too get the spacers installed. Argh i cant remove those blots too. actually i couldnt remove most of the blots if it's under the car surrounded with dirt.

do i really need a air gun?

what are pb blaster and breaker bars?

Dousan_PG
07-24-2003, 08:58 PM
WTF are you talign about?
rear links? NO REAR LINKS FOR SUBFRAME BOLTS TO INSTALL SUBFRAME SPACERS!!!!

whatever it is..do what i said above. my first post.
if you cant do it, take it to a shop. simple as that.

silvia14
07-24-2003, 09:08 PM
i want to install subframe spacers AND bushings for the rear links AND new rear upper arm. oh well... and front sway bar and t/c rod...

but i couldnt take any of these bolts out...


ok i will try

Dousan_PG
07-24-2003, 09:10 PM
AAAAAH I C!!
o kok

breaker bar lots of liquid wrench and LOTS OF MUSCLE!!
or air tools :) easiest way fo sure!

silvia14
07-24-2003, 09:14 PM
im 5' 10" 140lbs so no mucscle for me lol

guess i will get some air tools....

Dousan_PG
07-24-2003, 09:39 PM
er..im the same 9actually 150lbs) and never had such problems.
eat more spinach

silvia14
07-24-2003, 10:22 PM
wow we are the same shape...man have you ever seat on a bride brix? is it good for our shape?

Dousan_PG
07-24-2003, 10:33 PM
i have a brix in my car.....its my friends but i use it till mm next month? had it in about 2 months..

yeah its PERFECT SEAT......LOVE IT

silvia14
07-24-2003, 10:48 PM
cool can you hook me up with that seat? how much with bride rail?

thx.

Dousan_PG
07-25-2003, 12:10 AM
why would i hook u up? i dont even know you!

drift into a curb
07-25-2003, 12:32 AM
haha lightweights. Yeah lube it up with some PB Blaster/WD-40, tap the spot with a wrench to break up the oxidation, and let it sit for a little bit before you try to take it apart, give it a few minutes, or even hours if it's really bad. Breaker bar is key.

Archangel
07-25-2003, 02:43 AM
not to be redundant, but as was said above spray some wd40 on it and let it soak awhile.
And while a breaker bar is best, if you're low on cash or just want a cheaper way, you can get a length of pipe and slide it over the handle of the largest wrench you have - essentially making the handle longer, thus giving you more leverage

and if all else fails, call the biggest friend you have, and have him give it a try.