FML... I'm done for now with sr's and maybe 240's

[moses]

This is the second time I rebuild an sr and the third time it shit out on me. I don't even know if I want to rebuild another sr. I was suppose to drive half way across America with this motor and it made it a quarter mile. For those who don't remember my first rebuild was after my turbo FODed out so I did headgasket and cams. Then I killed my #1 cylinder with detonation as shown in the pic.
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/Mobile%20Uploads/1258690500.jpg
I found out that my fuel pump did not have enough voltage at full boost after thing else checked good so I hard wired it. Then after fully rebuilding it, I broke it in 500 soft miles and ran it at 15lbs (stock boost for actuator) after and everything went good and checked good the night before. I warm up the car for a 2000 mile drive the next day and down the road it shuts off.
I find
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/2e062b6f.jpg
then
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/938ffffc.jpg
that little bump is the piston pin! Yeah destroyed! I don't want to fix it right now, I just want to know how it happened? I think spun bearing but I really don't know what that involves. It's not detonation like the first time because it's not melted, it's just in a bunch of big pieces. Y?

[sectorjeff]

Damn dude that sucks. At least drop a bone stock ka just for your dd

[Ceepo]

yeah, throw a ka in there and redo the sr slowly

[shiftdrift]

or build a ka-t....just saying.

[mmdb]

wouldn't have that problem with a LSx v8 :B Keep at it and learn from what happened. It'll serve you a lot in the future. Good luck.

[Slammed Assassin]

that sucks bro.. just keep on going and dont give up..try a different route.

[spools420a]

dude what makes you think that the second time wasnt detonation?or even pre ignition

1. you have a sark plug thats near disinigrated

2. you have a hole in your piston with a broken wrist pin

3. last rebuild you melted a piston


um whats your setup?I bet this could have been prevented with a wideband and a cheap $300 water/meth injection but again whats your setup you do have some serious heat issues.(detonation/pre ignition is my bet)

[moses]

I don't think it was detonation because the spark plug is not melted off like the other time. I don't know if you can see it but the part that curves out on the plug is smashed in and the ring is black from running rich. There is also pieces chuncked off in the cylinder and I can not seem to move the motor at all. I'll pop the head off later to see what really happened but it looks like the piston slamed into the spark plug and valves but I don't know how or why that happens.

[fcdrifter20]

did you change those wrist pins out when you rebuilt it?

[jspaeth]

I did a ton of research these weekend on spark plugs.


I know A LOT of people run the BKR7E....but that plug is ISO spec, meaning the distance from the seating surface to the tip of the top is about 4 mm or so shorter than a JIS spec plug, which our cars are SUPPOSED to run. Some people have experienced poor contact with the coilpacks due to this....

I am not sure (I doubt it) if this conributed, but next time go with a JIS spec plug.

The relevant part number is

BCPR7ES-11 (Stock number 1095)....they come gapped at 0.044 so you have to close that down a bit.


Also, the BKR7E is a v-power tip.


As far as I know, ALL of the V-power tip NGK plugs are ISO length....sucks....

[moses]

Of course I changed those pins.

And coil packs not hitting the spark plug would cause the opposite of detonation and exploding piston. Good info tho. You should make sure that's in sr FAQ

[S14DB]

AFR doesn't cause detonation. Timing Does.

It doesn't matter that you were running pig rich. If you like that spark off to early that's more fuel that is burning as that cylinder is flying up.

You aren't melting shit, you're blowing shit up.

[slider2828]

Interesting, but I never had a problem..... How about Iridiums? EIX plugs? I just checked mine these weekend and they were perfect...

AND S14DB Speaks the TROOF!!!

I did a ton of research these weekend on spark plugs.


I know A LOT of people run the BKR7E....but that plug is ISO spec, meaning the distance from the seating surface to the tip of the top is about 4 mm or so shorter than a JIS spec plug, which our cars are SUPPOSED to run. Some people have experienced poor contact with the coilpacks due to this....

I am not sure (I doubt it) if this conributed, but next time go with a JIS spec plug.

The relevant part number is

BCPR7ES-11 (Stock number 1095)....they come gapped at 0.044 so you have to close that down a bit.


Also, the BKR7E is a v-power tip.


As far as I know, ALL of the V-power tip NGK plugs are ISO length....sucks....

[racepar1]

AFR doesn't cause detonation. Timing Does.

It doesn't matter that you were running pig rich. If you like that spark off to early that's more fuel that is burning as that cylinder is flying up.

You aren't melting shit, you're blowing shit up.

A lean mixture can cause detonation or "pinging" just the same as timing can. Ever gotten some bad gas? It pings like shit... A lean mixture is almost certainly what happened to the first piston pictured. Timing can't do that. Lean = heat, heat = melted shit. I also seriously doubt that it was timing that caused his latest failure as well. I suspect either an oiling issue or incorrect clearences related to that piston caused it. The way the piston came apart it looks like it seized in the bore and the rod smashed it's way through it.

[DALAZ_68]

in other words...he should have his engine built for him...not by him...

[S14DB]

A lean mixture can cause detonation or "pinging" just the same as timing can. Ever gotten some bad gas? It pings like shit... A lean mixture is almost certainly what happened to the first piston pictured. Timing can't do that. Lean = heat, heat = melted shit. I also seriously doubt that it was timing that caused his latest failure as well. I suspect either an oiling issue or incorrect clearences related to that piston caused it. The way the piston came apart it looks like it seized in the bore and the rod smashed it's way through it.

Lean mixture melting shit is different then detonation.

Bad gas you describe is low octane or resistance to detonation. Not the air:fuel ratio. Bad gas doesn't change the A:F ratio.

I am not saying his damage was caused by detonation or running lean or both. I am saying that his statement that you can't detonate while running rich is false.

[moses]

Ok ok thanks for info. Learn something new every day. I ran about 100 miles with timing off but there was no boost. I fixed it and drove 400 miles. Can it be timing if it happen in one cylinder?

And I had a shop build the short block, I did the rest. It does sound like racepar1 is right about the piston getting stuck. How could it be oil tho if the piston got stuck?

[jspaeth]

Can it be timing if it happen in one cylinder?

Of course! One cylinder has to fail before the others...the odds of all 4 going out at once is like infinitely low

[jr_ss]

And I had a shop build the short block, I did the rest. It does sound like racepar1 is right about the piston getting stuck. How could it be oil tho if the piston got stuck?

If the piston got stuck, that should be a machine shop issue. Then again, you've driven on it for 500miles, so perhaps there is an oiling issue. Siezed shit usually means lack of lubrication.

[moses]

I did not know that about timing. But if the piston got stuck in the cylinder then where would the oil not be getting thru? Would a spun bearing do it?

[g35gabby]

I did not know that about timing. But if the piston got stuck in the cylinder then where would the oil not be getting thru? Would a spun bearing do it?

sounds like you slapped this car together without understanding alot of things..... no wonder it is in the shape it is.

[j20accord00]

^ lmao this should get good

[moses]

Because I didn't know all the aspects of how a engine can break down I shouldn't have built a motor. Haha, I'm not going to get into it online.

[bb4_96]

Have you pulled the bottom end apart yet. I'd kinda like to know what actually caused the problem.

[GripTerror]

or you could go ls1 and make as much power with stock reliability and easy plug and play power gainers.

[rex2sx]

well i have a 3 pistons from my SR20DET..so if you want 1..just let me know:hide:

The same thing happened to my friends BMW, we looked down and saw the wrist...but he over revved his motor so..

[dreamin240sx]

sounds like u have a bad case of "i have no idea what i'm doing"

[jspaeth]

or you could go ls1 and make as much power with stock reliability and easy plug and play power gainers.


Some people enjoy the process of building a quality motor that is efficient for it's displacement.

Others take the easy route and slap in a SHITTY, INEFFICIENT 6 or 7 liter motor that only produces 50 hp/L. :ghey:

[GripTerror]

And some people are clueless idiots example above :D

400whp and 30mpg on the highway with no turbos and something called torque and a powerband = win

You COULD spend countless thousands on a small displacement motor and push it to its limits and blow it up over and over again spend countless thousands on tuning and so on.... just to reach 400whp... OR you could spend a lil extra to begin with on a nice reliable 400whp+ with TORQUE (aka power) and a power band that's not in the sky but that gets moving from the get go... and not have to blow shit up. Whatever floats your boat.

And your ignorant ass it's 5.7liter for a ls1, it's 6liter for an ls2 and 7liter for an ls7 which produces 500bhp~ that's actually not too shabby considering a 2liter sr requires a turbo to make close to 200bhp.

I rather have a newer fire breathing v8 than a junkyard japan sr motor. The SR is not the be all end all motor.

I rather have a 4G63 than an SR but unfrotunately it doesnt go in a 240.

[rex2sx]

400whp and 30mpg on the highway with no turbos and something called torque and a powerband = win

And your ignorant ass it's 5.7liter for a ls1, it's 6liter for an ls2 and 7liter for an ls7 which produces 500bhp~ that's actually not too shabby considering a 2liter sr requires a turbo to make close to 200bhp.

I rather have a newer fire breathing v8 than a junkyard japan sr motor. The SR is not the be all end all motor.
.

I was going to say something about his statement but i let it go. The Ls1 weighs how more than an SR..about 100lbs IIRC, and it has twice the cylinders..i didnt want to turn this into another "XXX motor is better" thread.

So people make CRAZY assumptions. At any rate LS1 FTW

[racepar1]

Some people enjoy the process of building a quality motor that is efficient for it's displacement.

Others take the easy route and slap in a SHITTY, INEFFICIENT 6 or 7 liter motor that only produces 50 hp/L. :ghey:


I was trying to think of a witty response for this, but it's just so damn ignorant that I couldn't. Maybe I need some coffee or something...

:squint:

[slider2828]

God... I was thinking about these arguments. The truth is, if you do it right, then things go right. If you do it wrong, and things blow up.....

As for LSX SR 4G KA bla bla bla.... There are purist view where keep what is intended or people just doing what THEY like which is swap LSx's into everything....

But either way, it all comes down to the first statement. Do it right or blow it up..... All good.... And in this case of moses, he blew it up....

Maybe the only way to speculate is what did you put into the rebuild? Did you use all new parts? What went into the rebuild?

[bb4_96]

How did the door open for the LSX crowd to come in and muck up this thread. I swear every time an sr blows up there is a toothless hillbilly(gross generalization) out there waiting to say "golly feller you should have used a vee-ate!"

Fact is he didn't swap an LSX. And unless he's been dead or under a rock for at least the last 4 years then he probably already knew he could swap in an LSX.

So why not keep the thread productive just this one time and find out why the motor blew up instead of endless speculation and LSX comments.

[Sileighty_85]

Back on Topic:

OP did the machine shop bore and hone the cylinders and install Oversized pistons?

Almost seems like they used the stock pistons and slapped in oversized rings....

[jspaeth]

And some people are clueless idiots example above :D

400whp and 30mpg on the highway with no turbos and something called torque and a powerband = win

You COULD spend countless thousands on a small displacement motor and push it to its limits and blow it up over and over again spend countless thousands on tuning and so on.... just to reach 400whp... OR you could spend a lil extra to begin with on a nice reliable 400whp+ with TORQUE (aka power) and a power band that's not in the sky but that gets moving from the get go... and not have to blow shit up. Whatever floats your boat.

And your ignorant ass it's 5.7liter for a ls1, it's 6liter for an ls2 and 7liter for an ls7 which produces 500bhp~ that's actually not too shabby considering a 2liter sr requires a turbo to make close to 200bhp.

I rather have a newer fire breathing v8 than a junkyard japan sr motor. The SR is not the be all end all motor.

I rather have a 4G63 than an SR but unfrotunately it doesnt go in a 240.

I was going to say something about his statement but i let it go. The Ls1 weighs how more than an SR..about 100lbs IIRC, and it has twice the cylinders..i didnt want to turn this into another "XXX motor is better" thread.

So people make CRAZY assumptions. At any rate LS1 FTW

I was trying to think of a witty response for this, but it's just so damn ignorant that I couldn't. Maybe I need some coffee or something...

:squint:

Clearly, that is my opinion. I am an engineer, so I don't believe in brute force, which is what the early LSx motors are. Almost all innovation and development results from making things perform better through improvements in efficiency and quality, NOT by just scaling something up.


If someone said to you:

"I have a really good air conditioning system in my house. The compressor and fan unit is the size of a football field and it can remove 1000 BTU/hr from the house"

and someone else said

" I have a really good air conditiong system, too. Mine is the size of a refrigerator, and it can remove 700 BTU/hr from my house"

Whose A/C is "better"?

Clearly, the bigger one removes more heat, but it is inefficient as fuck.

/argument, I win.






How did the door open for the LSX crowd to come in and muck up this thread. I swear every time an sr blows up there is a toothless hillbilly(gross generalization) out there waiting to say "golly feller you should have used a vee-ate!"

Fact is he didn't swap an LSX. And unless he's been dead or under a rock for at least the last 4 years then he probably already knew he could swap in an LSX.

So why not keep the thread productive just this one time and find out why the motor blew up instead of endless speculation and LSX comments.

Thank you, no one cares about your V8, so shut up!

[moses]

Haha I think I am actually going to miss you guys when I go to England for 2 years.
I spent 2500 for all the new parts and for the guy to build the short block with new everything. Even had it coated. And put everything else back according to the fsm. I kick myself for buying a used oil pump from gsracer but he said he used it for 5 min. I might rip the head off but I don't want to get too into it since I don't have much time with my family.

[rex2sx]

Clearly, that is my opinion. I am an engineer, so I don't believe in brute force, which is what the early LSx motors are. Almost all innovation and development results from making things perform better through improvements in efficiency and quality, NOT by just scaling something up.


If someone said to you:

"I have a really good air conditioning system in my house. The compressor and fan unit is the size of a football field and it can remove 1000 BTU/hr from the house"

and someone else said

" I have a really good air conditiong system, too. Mine is the size of a refrigerator, and it can remove 700 BTU/hr from my house"

Whose A/C is "better"?

Clearly, the bigger one removes more heat, but it is inefficient as fuck.

/argument, I win.

LS1 brute force?? What does that mean?? Twin turbo V6 FWD is "brute force" lol...

Im going to go easy on you...Your arguement is supporting the Ls1 :rolleyes: wayy to go..

The one that is less effiecient would be the SR..Gas mileage same, weight LS! is more like 200lbs than 100 BUT still has more potentail, and the list goes on..

Like i stated in my post, that i did not want to threadjack this guys post, saying how he should drop in an LS1, OR flame him for the build he did.

Its funny because, jspaeth, your the 1st person who said something about the
SHITTY, INEFFICIENT 6 or 7 liter motor that only produces 50 hp/L. :ghey:

:yum:

[rex2sx]

Haha I think I am actually going to miss you guys when I go to England for 2 years.
I spent 2500 for all the new parts and for the guy to build the short block with new everything. Even had it coated. And put everything else back according to the fsm. I kick myself for buying a used oil pump from gsracer but he said he used it for 5 min. I might rip the head off but I don't want to get too into it since I don't have much time with my family.

Ill take it off your hands...Just drop it off in PA on your way up, just say its a "JDM care package"

[racepar1]

Lean mixture melting shit is different then detonation.

Bad gas you describe is low octane or resistance to detonation. Not the air:fuel ratio. Bad gas doesn't change the A:F ratio.

I am not saying his damage was caused by detonation or running lean or both. I am saying that his statement that you can't detonate while running rich is false.

You are thinking of air/fuel ratio as a volumetric measurement. Air/fuel ratio is measured on a molecular level. The same volume of air and fuel can produce drastically different air/fuel ratios with nothing but different atmospheric conditions (or contaminated fuel...).

Clearly, that is my opinion. I am an engineer, so I don't believe in brute force, which is what the early LSx motors are. Almost all innovation and development results from making things perform better through improvements in efficiency and quality, NOT by just scaling something up.


If someone said to you:

"I have a really good air conditioning system in my house. The compressor and fan unit is the size of a football field and it can remove 1000 BTU/hr from the house"

and someone else said

" I have a really good air conditiong system, too. Mine is the size of a refrigerator, and it can remove 700 BTU/hr from my house"

Whose A/C is "better"?

Clearly, the bigger one removes more heat, but it is inefficient as fuck.

/argument, I win.

Sweet, your "more efficient" engine is less reliable and probably gets either the same or worse gas mileage. Maybe your definition of efficiency is different then mine.

I would never try to tell you that the LS1 is a better engine for YOU then the SR20DET. What in the world makes you think that you are so damn knowledgeable that you know better? Your view is simply different, it doesn't make it anymore right then enyone else's. I personally find it hilarious that you have decided to declare yourself the "winner" of this "argument", when in fact there can be no winner ever. The LSx vs SR20DET argument is based entirely in opinion. You are the "winner" nowhere but in your own mind.

BTW, congratulations on being an "engineer". It clearly makes you feel quite special.

[rex2sx]

. The LSx vs SR20DET argument is based entirely in opinion. .

Is it though?? If a one object outperforms another in any kind of testing, that would make it superoir right? On a general "all around" stand point. Now if you want to break it down to liter size and budget blah lah blah then thats one thing.

Im not trying to knock anyones OPINION, i dnt like doing that. But in the end, any fact kind of factual information outweighs any type of theory OR opinion.

[S14DB]

Engine discussion ends now. If you aren't helping him with his problem don't post.

[moses]

Someone shoot me, I took off the head and i I don't know if it did it but man, I can't explain it. The first thing I saw when I took off the cover was the rocker off and spring loose.
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/5c399aac.jpg
then I took off the head and saw it wasn't the wrist pin, it was the exaust valve stem. Here is some pics
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/2f5b7949.jpg
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/38d9b332.jpg
http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o334/driftn240sx/caecaca1.jpg
If you haven't noticed yet, the head gasket is wrong. The rust spots are where there should be holes and I didn't check. FML. The only thing is I don't know how the valves made contact with the piston. The motor would turn cause the cam was hittin the rocker but now the bottom end turns perfect. How do you guys think it happened?

[Sileighty_85]

Wow O.o You running stock Cams? Stock Valve springs? Ever over Rev the Engine?

[moses]

I got jwt s3 cams. I just started boosting the engine. I boosted for 40 miles at 15psi. I might of went high in the revs but I don't think I over reved it.

[jspaeth]

Sorry to see that man :-/

Best of luck with your rebuild...looks like you might as well just find a new shortblock....

[Sileighty_85]

I got jwt s3 cams. I just started boosting the engine. I boosted for 40 miles at 15psi. I might of went high in the revs but I don't think I over reved it.

are you running Stock Valve Springs?

Most after market cams require stronger springs to keep the Valves from Floating at High RPM's, Which kinda seems like what happened to you.

[moses]

No I am running codyace's set-up. Even JWT said you don't have too. Everything up to is stock exept cams. I don't know what made that valve come out of the c clip. It's bent which means the piston hit it and I think it bounced around and hit the other vavve which broke that off and then hit the spark plug.
Can anyone connect the blocked water passages to the piston hitting the valve?

[tech_45]

hmm it looks like the valve just dropped and boom. stock valves? keepers? springs?

[racepar1]

Yep, It dropped a valve. Most likely either defective or improperly installed retainers...

Funny, it sure did look like a wrist-pin in the pic.

[jspaeth]

In the first damage picture, the two neighboring retainers appear to be different colors....

Can the OP explain this...is it just lighting? It doesn't seem so....

[racepar1]

In the first damage picture, the two neighboring retainers appear to be different colors....

Can the OP explain this...is it just lighting? It doesn't seem so....

One of the retainers is missing in the pic...

[jspaeth]

One of the retainers is missing in the pic...


Huh? First picture from his post like 3 posts ago....

I see a cam lobe, a rocker arm sandwiched between cam and one retainer, and then there are 2 valve springs that that lobe is responsible for.

Each spring has a retainer sitting on it.


The left one has no valve sticking through and no keepers obviously.


The left one appears to be more silver in color (newer or aftermarket?) and the one on the right appears to be older, OEM looking, more brownish in color....

[rex2sx]

.


The left one has no valve sticking through and no keepers obviously.
0.o unless i misread this post..BOTH keepers for the missing valve on the left are there...


.
The left one appears to be more silver in color (newer or aftermarket?) and the one on the right appears to be older, OEM looking, more brownish in color....

Yeah i see ths discoloration though..I think i have my retainers still from my old SR..ill check those

[moses]

No the only new thing is the cams and the valves in #1 cylinder because it burned up.

[rex2sx]

Oh wait..all my cylinder head stuff is at the machine shop..

Lemme know Moses if your looking for stock valve train compnenets..since its seems like thats what you like :rimshot:...just kidding!!

But seriously hit me up...lemme know if you want all 16...

[spools420a]

So I wonder since hes got the larger aftermarket cam with more lift if it had enough lift to compress the stock oem spring at high rpm causing the oem ratainers to litterally just fall right out kinda like when you compress the spring while installing,I would seriously investigate this that would be a theory.Maybe on the rebuild if theres a next time use eather the oem cam or get after market springs/valves/retainers to match up the abuse of the high lift cam.

[moses]

I used the whole head before with these cams and it is no problem to use these cams with stock valvetrain. Maybe the guy at the shop put to big of a spacer and it went to high at high rpm and broke off?

[S14DB]

You can see your retainers on the oil valley. They were ejected at some point. Check your oil pan for the c clip.

[slider2828]

Rocker arm stoppers?

[moses]

I have rocker arm stoppers And the c clips were sittin in the head.

[efrain240sx]

Maybe the lifter collapsed letting the rocker move over on top of the valve. Then when the cam tried to open the valves the rocker acted as a spring compressor, which then let the keepers fallout. Then the valve fell into the cylinder.

[rex2sx]

Stock valvetrain components..right here:wavey:

[bb4_96]

measure every part of the failed retainer against the other retainers. Make sure the shop didn't make an error(dropped parts mix up). You said the shop built you longblock right?

[jspaeth]

You can see your retainers on the oil valley. They were ejected at some point. Check your oil pan for the c clip.

Hey Mr. Moderator, they are called "keepers" :keke:

JUST KIDDING WITH YA!

That's why I got confused earlier, because someone was referring to the keepers as retainers....

[Devil Man]

it just looks like either the keepers werent installed right or just some fluke thing happened and they were ejected out and your valves droped and boom.

[rex2sx]

it just looks like either the keepers werent installed right or just some fluke thing happened and they were ejected out and your valves droped and boom.

lol and thats what hes trying to figure out and if this "fluke" will repeat itself...

Becuase ive nevr heard of this happening on properly installed valves..and this only happened to 1 so your chances of it happeneing again MIGHT be slim..but dont quote..it might just be safer to get strong springs..

[jspaeth]

lol and thats what hes trying to figure out and if this "fluke" will repeat itself...

Becuase ive nevr heard of this happening on properly installed valves..and this only happened to 1 so your chances of it happeneing again MIGHT be slim..but dont quote..it might just be safer to get strong springs..

BC0200 Brian Crower Spring/Titanium retainer set.

Only like $200 from FRSport.

The srpings were tested against a bunch of others on Fresh Alloy I believe, and it finished only second to Ferrea in terms of coil bind and stiffness...

So basically, they are pretty darn good, especially for the money

[rex2sx]

probably should look into getting that/those seat(s) fixed/ replace. Im not sure if its integral or not on SR heads. But dont just get new valves.

Or you might have future copmression problems...again...

[racepar1]

Huh? First picture from his post like 3 posts ago....

I see a cam lobe, a rocker arm sandwiched between cam and one retainer, and then there are 2 valve springs that that lobe is responsible for.

Each spring has a retainer sitting on it.


The left one has no valve sticking through and no keepers obviously.


The left one appears to be more silver in color (newer or aftermarket?) and the one on the right appears to be older, OEM looking, more brownish in color....

I thought you were referring to the latest post...

That's why I got confused earlier, because someone was referring to the keepers as retainers....

Yeah, I was thinking about that last night. It's been too long since I have been involved in building an engine...

So yeah, it looks like one of the valve KEEPERS was either defective, completely wrong, or improperly installed. Either that or he over revved the piss shit out of it.

[racepar1]

probably should look into getting that/those seat(s) fixed/ replace. Im not sure if its integral or not on SR heads. But dont just get new valves.

Or you might have future copmression problems...again...

With the way that valve was banging around in there I am wiling to bet that he needs a completely new head, maybe a block too if it got into the cylinder walls too bad...

[rex2sx]

With the way that valve was banging around in there I am wiling to bet that he needs a completely new head, maybe a block too if it got into the cylinder walls too bad...

Eh, maybe. He has 2 bad valves. On my SR head, my quench areas were completey trashed, w/ 1 valve seat most likely suffering damage also, due to my motor locking up and a piston head detaching itself from the rod. My block was completely done though. Hopefully he can get new sleeves, but i just talk to my machine shop guy and he doesnt do sleeves on an aluminum block becaue they are "tricky"

I got a quote of $200 to fix the one combustion chamber, though i cant remember if that was w/ or w/o valves and a seat...But it might be cheaper to replace the head, unless he was planning on going w/ an upgraded valvetrain.

[moses]

I am done with this block and head anyways. I'll see what I can salvage but this motor has bad luck. So you guys think this has nothing to do with me installing the wrong headgasket?

[jspaeth]

I am done with this block and head anyways. I'll see what I can salvage but this motor has bad luck. So you guys think this has nothing to do with me installing the wrong headgasket?

Hopefully this is the case. We will be watching and we hope this doesn't happen AGAIN