Greddy type RS vs. type R

[nismo619]

i searched and couldnt find the answers i was looking for.

what is the big difference between the two ? I just bought a brand new type rs to replace my old bov and it surges once i boost to about 5 pounds then it flutters and bogs my engine until i let off some. i tightened it all the way tight and this didnt seem to help so i was thinking of getting a type rs cuz i hear they hold more hp? i have a t3/t4 topmount with external wastegate and built motor if that helps at all. thanks

[idamaster]

Adjust the spring via the Allen stud at the top.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Type-R BOV is bigger than any other Greddy BOVs out there. If you look at the flange, the opening for the Type-Rs are bigger.

I use it with a GT3582R boosting to 2 bar with no leaking issue.

[sirfallsalot243]

Ive heard of lots of people experiencing this with the Type S and Type RS's.

[SoSideways]

The GReddy Type R BOV is the only one you should be getting. I've had this as my one and only BOV since 2003 and it's held up just fine.

Plus it's huge.

It means business.

[nismo619]

Ok cool thanks guys I'm going to be trading my rs for a type r today to a buddie. so do you think this will stop the fluttering under boost? And are there any markings on the type r too look for to make sure its not a fake? Thanks again.

[SoSideways]

Don't think there are any fake Type Rs out there.

In any case, the fluttering under boost thing might not be BOV related, but instead fuel related or timing related.

You best check out all the other things that could be wrong before blindly changing out parts to try and fix your car... although trading out an Type RS to a Type R isn't exactly a bad trade in any circumstances.

[nismo619]

idk where to begin checking. it sounds exactly like the bov and what is weired is is 1st and second it doesnt really do it and in third it starts and in fourth or fith i cant boost past a couple pounds. idk what it could be

[nismo619]

and this motor just had some work done to the block and head

[SoSideways]

Sounds like the more load the engine sees, the worse it gets.

[HOBBS240]

Is the Greddy Type-R too much for a stock motor?

[nismo619]

but in first and second it doesnt do it. I traded for the type R and it still does it.I think it could also be my wastegate fluttering because now its stuck open, i can even hear the exhaust going through the wastegate at idle... i just bought a tial 38mm so maybe that will fix it but idk. it is deffinetly something turbo related. help me out ha ha

[fliprayzin240sx]

but in first and second it doesnt do it. I traded for the type R and it still does it.I think it could also be my wastegate fluttering because now its stuck open, i can even hear the exhaust going through the wastegate at idle... i just bought a tial 38mm so maybe that will fix it but idk. it is deffinetly something turbo related. help me out ha ha

If your BOV is stuck open then you will have a massive boost leak...you will know its stuck open because your car will run like absolute crap.

[SoSideways]

Well, chances of 2 different BOV both being stuck open is pretty slim.

Possible, but highly doubtful.

If your wastegate is stuck open, that could cause what you're describing, since first and second don't really place much load on the engine, your turbo won't really boost much, but once you hit 3rd gear, there's enough load to make the turbo start spooling and making boost, and if your WG was stuck open, your turbo won't spool, but the ECU is already in the timing and fuel maps where it is expecting boost to be there, so that's why your car sputters and coughs and junk.

[alonroz]

Is the Greddy Type-R too much for a stock motor?

No, its adjustable to a very low threshold, it worked perfectly on my stock motor...

[nismo619]

ok so i installed a new tial 38mm and the type R bov , and it is still doing it... the bov isnt tightened all the way, more like half so im going to tighten it more once i go somewhere, but the engine doesnt really sputter unless i try and step on it while its happening, and the bov isnt getting "stuck" open its fluttering opening and closing.

[nismo619]

and let me remind you i am making 400hp with my setup

[fliprayzin240sx]

K i re-read what you posted, you said you can hear the turbo fluttering and then the engine would bog? Have you pressurized the whole system to see if you have any boost leak?

[nismo619]

no idk how ?

[nismo619]

i mean i checked th couplers and its deff not my intercoler its new

[Sileighty_85]

Where are you getting your Vac source from?

Check the lines for breaks and cuts or try switching the Vac source, Give it its own Vac source

[nismo619]

yeah im thinking its a vacum problem also, but my bov has its own vacum line from the manifold and the wastegate vacum line goes to my compressor on the turbo.

[SoSideways]

You need to do what Ray said to do and perform a boost leak test.

Just because your intercooler is new doesn't mean it can't have pin hole leaks and stuff. Friend of mine cheaped out when he was building his SC300 w/ a 2JZ swap in it, and bought some cheap eBay intercooler and eBay Veilside intake plenum knock off, and those turned out to have pin hole leaks from shitty casting.

In any case, buy yourself a PVC cap the size of your MAF, then drill and tap a hole in the middle of it for an air hose hooked up to an air compressor with a regulator on it, then just set the compressor for 10psi and let it go through that cap. Put that PVC cap where the MAF would have gone.

From there, listen for any air leaks. It would be very obvious as you will hear it leaking out from somewhere if it was a huge leak.

But if you don't hear anything, then start checking the entire length of your piping, intercooler, hoses, etc. just to double check.

[Sileighty_85]

which port on the manifold?
S13 SR?
Stock Manifold or Greddy?

the bottom Port of the S13 TB doesnt create a Vac use one of the top ones

[nismo619]

ok so we did a couple tests today and are still stumped. we filled all the plumming with a smoke machine idk what they are called nut yeah... no leaks but this wasnt a high pressure test for boost leaks. we will be doing that monday cuz we didnt have the right things to do it. its weird it runs super rich when it does this too. we changed the timing several times and it didnt seem to fix it. we think it has a boost leak so like i was saying first thing monday we are going to do the test. and my fpr vacum line is on the tb nipple, is this bad ? i only have one nipple on the manifold right now (greddy mani) and i didnt want to Tee my fbr,bov,and boost gauge all together like they were so thats why i did that. think of anything else maybe ? its weird that it runs rich when it sputters its like the air is leaking but the fuel is still getting there...

[fliprayzin240sx]

ok so we did a couple tests today and are still stumped. we filled all the plumming with a smoke machine idk what they are called nut yeah... no leaks but this wasnt a high pressure test for boost leaks. we will be doing that monday cuz we didnt have the right things to do it. its weird it runs super rich when it does this too. we changed the timing several times and it didnt seem to fix it. we think it has a boost leak so like i was saying first thing monday we are going to do the test. and my fpr vacum line is on the tb nipple, is this bad ? i only have one nipple on the manifold right now (greddy mani) and i didnt want to Tee my fbr,bov,and boost gauge all together like they were so thats why i did that. think of anything else maybe ? its weird that it runs rich when it sputters its like the air is leaking but the fuel is still getting there...

That definitely screams boost leak right there...

[nismo619]

thats what im saying ! lol but i dont have the stuff to presurize it though. this sucks!

im going back to the shop thursday to do the presure test but i dont want to wait that long...

[Unique]

I was having a similiar issue, just added a stronger spring to my bov and it solved the problem.

[nismo619]

ok well my typr r thats on it was over half tightened but i guess ill tighten it all the way and see what happens. i have a tial q but need to get the flange welded on.

[nismo619]

ok this might sound like a stupid question but, if i am under the hood and rev my engine and the bov stays closed and i feel no air come out is that too tight ? when it was stock it would blow off...

and this also might be a dumb question but, when i shift and the bov flutters instead of making the pshhhhh sound doesnt that mean its too loose ?

[Unique]

When I was having this problem my rpms would drop down to the point the car wanted to die once I let of the gas, with the car @ idle I would give it gas and slowly little by little I would tightend the adjusment screw on the bov to the point the rpms would drop slowly instead of rapidly to where it used to almost stall the car, if that's not doing it for you must have a leak somewhere.

[nismo619]

sorry im a little confused.. your saying while your at idle and you rev the engine, the rpms drop until it almost dies ? or when your driving ?

when im at idle and rev my engine it does drop to about 500rpms maybe. it was doing it really bad but we played with the timing so it doent really anymore. my rps also go crazy sometimes it will be idling at 900 and sometimes it will idle at 1500. its weird

[Mister.E]

and this also might be a dumb question but, when i shift and the bov flutters instead of making the pshhhhh sound doesnt that mean its too loose ?

that fluttering is compressor surge, not the BOV. it just means that the BOV is too tight. on stock boost it wont kill you.

[Unique]

Idle would drop when driving and also once the car was warmed up, but I did the adjusment on bov with the car parked. When I was experiencing a leak, it was coming from my break booster, when pumping my brakes my idle would fluctuate, car would idle between 850 to 1200.

[nismo619]

well its a t3 turbo... so i need too loosten my bov then, which means its not my bov.

and the sound im hearing when i start to boost sounds like compresser surge..

so if its compresser suge that im hearing while going into boost what could be causing that ? would a boost leak make it have compresser surge ?

[nismo619]

ok ill check my brake booster and see if its leaking anywhere

[nismo619]

ok so it wasnt my bov...

[SoSideways]

You said you have a GReddy type manifold, and only have 1 source for vacuum right now...

Did you plug all the other holes?

There are like 3 or 4 holes on the bottom of the manifold IIRC, and if you only put 1 nipple there, what did you do with the other holes?

BTW, you never tee off the line for the BOV. BOVs need their own dedicated vacuum lines to work right.

I've preached that sentence for years on here now.

[nismo619]

yeah i plugged them i was meaning i only had one available, but i added another nipple. i have my fpr and boost gauge teed together onto the mani, and the bov to the mani, and my wastegate to my compressor in my turbo. is this write ?

[nismo619]

fuck it ill go take pictures right now to make it easier

[nismo619]

ok i took some pix so stay and hangout for a sec while i upload them

[nismo619]

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1431.jpghttp://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1430.jpghttp://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1429.jpghttp://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1428.jpg

[nismo619]

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1430.jpg

[nismo619]

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1429.jpg

[nismo619]

http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac243/digitydrift/DSCN1428.jpg

[nismo619]

ok so i know its messy and the lines are just kickin it there but its cuz i keep switching them so thats now where they will stay fyi

[SoSideways]

OK, my question is... what is your timing set to?

[nismo619]

15 degrees i believe, im not exactly sure, we were playing with it to fix it but nothing...

[SoSideways]

Well, reason why I'm asking is, you could be off a tooth with the chain/cam gears, and you can THINK it's at 15 degrees, but it isn't.

[nismo619]

well im hitting it with a timming light so would the light still read wrong ?

[SoSideways]

The light might... depends on the light.

Seems like the general consensus is that the cheaper the timing light, the better it works.

[nismo619]

its a snap on light. no cheapo here lol

[SoSideways]

Well, I don't know if it'll read right or not then.

Many people have reported that the more expensive lights for some reason don't pick up the signal correctly and will be out of phase.

[nismo619]

well its not the light. we pulled the valve cover off and everything was set perfect. we pressurized the intercooler pipinging and it was good. we litterally checked everything lol. now we think we have a faulty program so thursday we are going to hook up a data link and see whats going on in that bitch box. lol well unless anyone has more ideas ? and thanks for the help man