View Full Version : old Ka24de sat for 2 years. runs bad.

04-29-2010, 10:39 AM
So i bought a 93 hatch that wasn't running for $450. complete car, motor, tranny everything. Didn't run at all said the owner. Put a battery in, turned her over and she wanted to run but wouldn't. Fiddled with the distributor timing and she ran on cylinders 1 and 2. wound up being the back 2 injectors. replaced them and she ran much better.

drove her and she drives horrible. sputters when you give gas at idle sometimes, no power, would act like the rev limiter was at 5k, shifts fine, runs fairly smooth but will bog a little after you hold the throttle open for a few seconds.

idle is decent. not choppy and doesn't idle high or low. unplugging the MAF makes it want to die at first then it'll idle normal again.

so far, i changed the spark plugs, cap, and rotor. (i actually think the old owner did this when it first died because one of the plugs looked like it was brand new)

pulled the distributor and re-set the ignition timing to 20*.

kept playing with it and injectors 2 and 3 started leaking so i replaced those. then injector 3 started to just pour fuel into the cylinder so i had to pull all the plugs and turn it over to clean it out. that was pretty awesome.

anyway, i keep reading threads about power loss here and it seems that most things that cause it are bad MAF, vacuum leaks, timing and the such.

the ignition timing is good and im pretty sure the injectors are all good now. im going to ohm them out again to be sure because i pulled a few from the junk yard. the MAF seems to be fine and i haven't located any more vacuum leaks.

Im really hoping timing isn't off on the chain. this is my first 240 and i just trying to get used to everything at this point.

and suggestions right now? i kinda want to get this thing on the road soon so i can sell my accord.

thanks in advance

04-29-2010, 10:47 AM
ECU throwing any codes?

04-29-2010, 08:58 PM
try the codes for sure
exhaust could be clogged also

04-29-2010, 09:03 PM
well i checked for codes originally but didn't get one. I also thought the light might have been out so im gonna put it back together and drive around for a few and see if something comes up.

as far as the exhaust being clogged, the exhaust is stock. AEM air intake and the intake is super loud then i give it gas. like, REAL loud. i have a modified accord with a prelude swap and 2.5" exhaust, and it wasn't until i got the 240 that my neighbors complained. not once.

could that mean something?

04-30-2010, 08:37 PM
CEL is throwing codes 13 and 34.

thats coolant temp sensor and knock sensor.

got the rail on and plugs in and she doesn't want to idle now. didn't want to start at first but i gave her some gas and she started and idled at first. ran rough. cylinder 4 wasn't firing but was getting spark. seemed like it was pushing compression out of the spark plug tube. #2 seemed a little off. pulling the plug wire made the car run a little rougher but not much. 1 and 3 would almost make the motor die.

took out plug 4 and re-tightened it. seems like its firing now but the motor won't idle. have to hold down the throttle a good bit.

gonna start looking into the codes now...

04-30-2010, 08:44 PM
coolant temp sensor will affect low idle and affect the car well alot.. and knock sensor will rob power check those

04-30-2010, 08:47 PM
coolant temp sensor will affect low idle and affect the car well alot.. and knock sensor will rob power check those

so the resistor trick will tell me if the knock sensor is bad correct? ill see if i can snag a coolant temp sensor tomorrow.

hopefully this thing will be driveable soon...


05-01-2010, 06:11 PM
changed the coolant temp sensor.

CEL isnt coming on.

wont idle on its own unless i hold the gas lightly and slowly let it out.

Compression tested it with the injectors unplugged and no spark plugs in any cylinder.

185, 190, 210, 185. not sure what stock is, but my buddy said its good. it also seemed to be leaking compression out of cylinder 4. could that mean the spark plug hole was messed up and cross threaded?

anyway, started leaking oil EVERYWHERE, and the spark plug holes were filled up.

im thinking im gonna be yanking the motor and just overhauling it. so ive looking around for rebuild kits, but everything i find is either only gaskets, or EVERYTHING.... im looking for everything outside the block and top end internals.

whats a good place to look?

07-08-2010, 10:47 AM
i guess ill just throw an update on this for boredoms sake...

so, i pulled the motor out and its torn down to bareblock and head. just have to take the head off and clean the block up and make sure everything looks good. i got a whole motor from a friend for $50. it dropped compression in 2 cylinders so im going to use the head if its still good. im sure that even if some valve are bent i have enough extras in the other head.

but im gonna get a head gasket set and go over everything. have the head resurfaced. maybe even milled just a tiny bit. im gonna try to find anther exhaust cam as well and try the dual 248's out.

im still pondering just going the whole way and re-ring and replace the bearings. its probably best to do, but im not sure its a necessity. if i were to, would i be able to just take out the crank and pistons/rods, replace the rings and reassemble with new bearings or am i looking at a machine shop bill on top of that?