Drift entrance techniques/form

[jasoncanseeoh]

Never seen caster measured that way...please explain more.

(the shuffling settles the car's weight balance)

That has to be a typo.

[chiboy002]

dude, don't build a car without knowing how to drive. why does everyone do that?
the whole point of learning is to start out with the basics, if you start with a well set up car then you will only always be rely on similar set ups to be able to do good.

if you start with a "hard to drift" car then you can get better even with these handicaps, and when they aren't there you'll be so much better.


as well as, my first alignment was a factory-spec alignment, idk how good it was but it was fine for learning

[pacotaco345]

dude, don't build a car without knowing how to drive. why does everyone do that?
the whole point of learning is to start out with the basics, if you start with a well set up car then you will only always be rely on similar set ups to be able to do good.

if you start with a "hard to drift" car then you can get better even with these handicaps, and when they aren't there you'll be so much better.


as well as, my first alignment was a factory-spec alignment, idk how good it was but it was fine for learning

As much as I agree with this statement, it probably isn't the easiest thing to drift a car with post-slammed alignment without any correction. He should at least have his car set up in a half way decent matter before he goes and blows 200 bucks at a drift event for tires and entry fee.

[jasoncanseeoh]

So, there's a local track close by with a bank you have to run 3rd gear. The straightaway to get there is quite short, so you have to dip pretty hard to get to 3rd before the bank starts.
My main question is: when you guys clutch kick, do you let the car settle first? Because on this straightaway, when you're mashing the gas pretty hard, the weight is shifted to the rear of the car pretty hard.... and clutch kicking with 80% of the weight being put on the rear wheels feels quite frantic/scary to me. Is that normal and should I just grow some balls? Or should I let the car settle before the turn, THEN clutch kick?

Hope I made fucking sense. lol

[KA240SX808]

Its normal. It actually settles a decent amount during those few milliseconds you go to kick the clutch. Its normal to feel scared, grow balls and don't hit the wall.

Carry on :)

[VinceDude]

dude, don't build a car without knowing how to drive. why does everyone do that?
the whole point of learning is to start out with the basics, if you start with a well set up car then you will only always be rely on similar set ups to be able to do good.

if you start with a "hard to drift" car then you can get better even with these handicaps, and when they aren't there you'll be so much better.


as well as, my first alignment was a factory-spec alignment, idk how good it was but it was fine for learning

By building i didn't mean modifying the car. My coupe is a shell lol So yeah in my case i'd have to build it before I can wreck it haha I'll just align my car to factory specs when it's up and running.

[chiboy002]

As much as I agree with this statement, it probably isn't the easiest thing to drift a car with post-slammed alignment without any correction. He should at least have his car set up in a half way decent matter before he goes and blows 200 bucks at a drift event for tires and entry fee.
what?

im saying, when i got my car aligned i just had them set it to factory-spec, not some crazy gimme -X camber and Xtoe and Xcaster.

[di-devol]

So, there's a local track close by with a bank you have to run 3rd gear. The straightaway to get there is quite short, so you have to dip pretty hard to get to 3rd before the bank starts.
My main question is: when you guys clutch kick, do you let the car settle first? Because on this straightaway, when you're mashing the gas pretty hard, the weight is shifted to the rear of the car pretty hard.... and clutch kicking with 80% of the weight being put on the rear wheels feels quite frantic/scary to me. Is that normal and should I just grow some balls? Or should I let the car settle before the turn, THEN clutch kick?

Hope I made fucking sense. lol

There is a ton of in car footage from evergreen, just sit and watch a bunch of them to see what most do. See ya in May if your going.

[pacotaco345]

what?

im saying, when i got my car aligned i just had them set it to factory-spec, not some crazy gimme -X camber and Xtoe and Xcaster.

I'm just saying if he's done any suspension mods to his car its proly no where near even being in factory spec.

[jasoncanseeoh]

There is a ton of in car footage from evergreen, just sit and watch a bunch of them to see what most do. See ya in May if your going.

Trust me, I've watched all I can find. It's just hard to determine g-forces through a computer monitor. lol

[chiboy002]

I'm just saying if he's done any suspension mods to his car its proly no where near even being in factory spec.

i think you misunderstood what i initially said

what i was saying is
he should get an alignment before he starts trying to really learn

even if his alignment is set back to factory spec, its still better than a janky ass alignment.

of course, if he's touched the suspension then his alignment isn't set anymore, so he should get one. theyre pretty cheap if you go to most shops, specialty ones run more. highest i've paid was 110, cause i was stupid

[VinceDude]

you guys talking about my car? It's only got tokico shocks & drop springs. I'm pretty sure my alignment is out at the moment though.

[jesse_s13]

Okay did my first drift event last Saturday and damn did my car understeer!

Ive slid around before on the street in my younger days but this was horrible.

Setup.
95 240sx
vlsd (sucks when fluid gets hot)
Front-18"g35 225/40
Rear 15" z31 195/50
Suspension: Fortune Auto 500's F:15 Clicks R: Full soft.
Stock clutch: Slipping

Looking for advice.
Heres a video.

http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k477/jesseridefit/school/?action=view&current=MOV290.mp4

if someone could embed this please

[dustinsonger]

I dont know about anyone else but my experience with suspensions is stiff front + soft rear = understeer

[KA240SX808]

Here:
http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k477/jesseridefit/school/th_MOV290.jpg (http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k477/jesseridefit/school/?action=view&current=MOV290.mp4)
- It's no embedded but yeah lol


+1

Looks like your Rear could have used maybe 10 Clicks.
I personally have found anything less then 10 Clicks in the Rear is too bouncy to enjoy.

I'm no expert but from what I saw your first turn you under steered Hard because you kicked it too late so instead of the rear breaking traction and having steering input from the wheel after to bring it out, you kicked it while turning and all it did was push forward and cause massive understeer.

Also from the sounds of it your running a KA so you'll need some weight transfer.
I don't have any personal Incar shots of me sliding but I would say I'm pretty "Aggressive" as far as the initial "Kick" goes.
I'll see if I can find anything of me.

Edit: Just looked online and on my comp and I don't have any incar stuff. The ones that I do don't show the wheel work. But I'm pretty sure you get the Idea.

I know someone else can explain this better or just give better insight all around.

[jesse_s13]

Here:
http://i327.photobucket.com/albums/k477/jesseridefit/school/th_MOV290.jpg (http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k477/jesseridefit/school/?action=view&current=MOV290.mp4)
- It's no embedded but yeah lol


+1

Looks like your Rear could have used maybe 10 Clicks.
I personally have found anything less then 10 Clicks in the Rear is too bouncy to enjoy.

I'm no expert but from what I saw your first turn you under steered Hard because you kicked it too late so instead of the rear breaking traction and having steering input from the wheel after to bring it out, you kicked it while turning and all it did was push forward and cause massive understeer.

Also from the sounds of it your running a KA so you'll need some weight transfer.
I don't have any personal Incar shots of me sliding but I would say I'm pretty "Aggressive" as far as the initial "Kick" goes.
I'll see if I can find anything of me.

Edit: Just looked online and on my comp and I don't have any incar stuff. The ones that I do don't show the wheel work. But I'm pretty sure you get the Idea.

I know someone else can explain this better or just give better insight all around.

I think I get what your trying to say. I will deff mess with the rear coils next time. Im also thinking about changing my rear diff fluid along with my tranny. Have not changed it since I owned the car so hope fully it will help with "locking" a bit.

should I use the ebrake or stick to cluch kicks?

[VinceDude]

Stiffer your spring rates are in the front the more your car will understeer. Try making the front less stiffer than the rear and your tires may also have something to do with it.

[thizzen4]

lol ebrake with clutch in then when pitched ..let out clutch after reving a lil and play with the throttle while counter steering and to continue to next corner let off and get back on once weight transfers or shift that my tech

keep hatin

[KA240SX808]

I think I get what your trying to say. I will deff mess with the rear coils next time. Im also thinking about changing my rear diff fluid along with my tranny. Have not changed it since I owned the car so hope fully it will help with "locking" a bit.

should I use the ebrake or stick to cluch kicks?

Changing fluid on a VLSD will do nothing. VLSD is a sealed unit.
Weather to eBrake or Clutch kick depends on the turn and your speed. If your coming in a little slow and know that an eBrake pull will scrub too much speed for the turn, clutch kick. And vice versa. Also you'll need to determine how much feint to put in for weight transfer depending on how much grip your tires have and how much power you have.

I make some aggressive feints with kicks due to having a KA and rocking 225's in the back. Its also my style, I like being aggressive, pretty much how you have to be with a Hachi.

Stiffer your spring rates are in the front the more your car will understeer. Try making the front less stiffer than the rear and your tires may also have something to do with it.

I think he just needs to bump up the rear damping and check his tire pressures.
I personally run 45-55 psi in the rear depending on the pavement and the tire it self.

[darkdma]

Well said. Everybody in here got a point. Softer in the front with less air pressure, and stiffer in the rear with higher air pressure would help a lot if your car is soft plus underpower. Lower your front tires PSI to 25lb would help the grip. stiffen up the rear end from all the way hard or maybe 2-5 clicks to hardest that would help kick out the rear end.

[Tearlessj]

I would definitely make sure that the front tires are sticky. We had a novice driver here at one of our events and he could NOT get it drifting. I took it for a run, and it was near impossible to drive. Even with a clutch kick it would not slide out. Turns out he was using a old Nankang in the front and a new Federal in the back. We swapped tires and it was so easy to drift.

[bataangpinoy]

https://vimeo.com/39962197

i have no idea how to embed videos.

some in car of my friend and i driving his s14
a stock ka,
stock clutch :(
stock tie rods,
welded diff,
Fortune Auto 500 Series 9k/7k,
14 clicks up front/16 rear.


215/45/17 Eagle Gt-1 up front at 35psi
some shit brand on the stock se's at 50 psi

I liked the way it slid at full soft, it was easier to upset the car's balance with the added body roll.
Had to stiffen it up to avoid rubbing the harness, it was way harder to initiate, and the non existent ebrake was inhibiting me from initiating as early as i usually do.

[cmg]

If your hand brake dont work very good then you can clutch kick opposite the corner with more speed than you need and when you come back pull the hand brake and give the foot brake a quick kick with either foot. Just be ready to counter and throttle cuz it will pitch plenty. If you dont have a welded diff then it dont work as well becuase the diff wants to open when you let off the throttle.

[bataangpinoy]

If your hand brake dont work very good then you can clutch kick opposite the corner with more speed than you need and when you come back pull the hand brake and give the foot brake a quick kick with either foot. Just be ready to counter and throttle cuz it will pitch plenty. If you dont have a welded diff then it dont work as well becuase the diff wants to open when you let off the throttle.


LOL. Dude, it wasn't working at all, hence the phrase "non existent". If you look at the vid, i just did a little weight shift. As I pitched the car to the left, I gave it a good clutch kick and let the car do the rest.

[word sux]

yea man, I run full soft on my coils and I love how it feels.

[cmg]

LOL. Dude, it wasn't working at all, hence the phrase "non existent". If you look at the vid, i just did a little weight shift. As I pitched the car to the left, I gave it a good clutch kick and let the car do the rest.

LOL. Dude, Your video you can barely see and from what I can see it looks extremely sloppy. When ending the drift it looks horrible. Maybe stay in it a little longer while you straighten out since you have a welded diff. Normally people think that their hand brake is "non existant" but actually it just seems that way because one caliper isnt working properly. If thats the case then try what I said. If the arms on the calipers are seized completely then you can still get the same effect from a quick kick to the foot brake but its a little scarier. Dont want help then dont post.

[bataangpinoy]

LOL. Dude, Your video you can barely see and from what I can see it looks extremely sloppy. When ending the drift it looks horrible. Maybe stay in it a little longer while you straighten out since you have a welded diff. Normally people think that their hand brake is "non existant" but actually it just seems that way because one caliper isnt working properly. If thats the case then try what I said. If the arms on the calipers are seized completely then you can still get the same effect from a quick kick to the foot brake but its a little scarier. Dont want help then dont post.

it is very sloppy, i won't even try to argue that. but its not my car and i've maybe had a total of 13 minutes to try and figure it out.

[cmg]

Well for future reference try some of those things out and see if it helps. It really all depends on your style.

[word sux]

If your hand brake dont work very good then you can clutch kick opposite the corner with more speed than you need and when you come back pull the hand brake and give the foot brake a quick kick with either foot. Just be ready to counter and throttle cuz it will pitch plenty. If you dont have a welded diff then it dont work as well becuase the diff wants to open when you let off the throttle.


is this even english?


so do you mean clutch kick into a feint? then pull the hand brake then stomp the brake? sounds like you are just begging for understeer...

[KA240SX808]

^Yeah that doesn't work very well.
Get the car in proper working order before you start doing anything with it...

[bataangpinoy]

feint into a clutch kick? .

fixed lol

lngth

[cmg]

is this even english?


so do you mean clutch kick into a feint? then pull the hand brake then stomp the brake? sounds like you are just begging for understeer...

No its in german. You dont have to stomp the foot brake. Just a fast kick. It wont work unless youve already initiated or transitioning. As far as it not working very well, maybe you just cant seem to figure it out. Ive had a lot of problems with stock calipers not wanting to lock up and not everyone is balling out of control so I learned to use what I had. This works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Bi4DySh3H0 Choku Dori.

This is what I mean. Obviously at this speed youd need a proper hand brake but at lower speeds like in the video you wont. What trying to explain works just fine. Again this is only for a poor performance hand brake. It will make you pitch a little more and scrub speed at the same time.

[fckillerbee]

No its in german. You dont have to stomp the foot brake. Just a fast kick. It wont work unless youve already initiated or transitioning. As far as it not working very well, maybe you just cant seem to figure it out. Ive had a lot of problems with stock calipers not wanting to lock up and not everyone is balling out of control so I learned to use what I had. This works.

"Choku-Dori" performed by Mr. Yasuyuki Kazama - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Bi4DySh3H0) Choku Dori.

This is what I mean. Obviously at this speed youd need a proper hand brake but at lower speeds like in the video you wont. What trying to explain works just fine. Again this is only for a poor performance hand brake. It will make you pitch a little more and scrub speed at the same time.

I'm kinda sure I know what you are saying. He's basically saying if you don't have a hand brake that locks up, when you use the foot pedal and hand brake at the same time, there is more pressure being applied, so it's easier for the hand brake to lock up...? yes?

[pacotaco345]

I'm kinda sure I know what you are saying. He's basically saying if you don't have a hand brake that locks up, when you use the foot pedal and hand brake at the same time, there is more pressure being applied, so it's easier for the hand brake to lock up...? yes?

Butt.. if you have the foot brake on then that just means you have like 4 inches of vertical play in the handbrake, then when you get to the point where the handbrake applies even more pressure its just as hard to pull as it was before

[fckillerbee]

Butt.. if you have the foot brake on then that just means you have like 4 inches of vertical play in the handbrake, then when you get to the point where the handbrake applies even more pressure its just as hard to pull as it was before

I have no idea. lol. I think he was trying to give this tip for the ability to use the handbrake....i don't think he mentioned it being hard to pull.

[pacotaco345]

I have no idea. lol. I think he was trying to give this tip for the ability to use the handbrake....i don't think he mentioned it being hard to pull.

So confused lol. I don't even touch my handbrake, every time I try I always leave it half engaged for lack of drift knob. Just clutchkick and spin for the most part haha.

[cmg]

I'm kinda sure I know what you are saying. He's basically saying if you don't have a hand brake that locks up, when you use the foot pedal and hand brake at the same time, there is more pressure being applied, so it's easier for the hand brake to lock up...? yes?

Exactly. Its only to assist the caliper to lock. The arms on stock calipers partially seize and wont completely lock up sometime no matter how much you adjust it and by bumping the foot brake it will give the little movement you need to get a good lock. Ive normally had the problem with one caliper not locking up and the other is ok but with a welded diff it still wont lock both tires so I bump the foot brake to get it to. Mainly only during transition. Depending on the corner your transitioning into is to how hard you wanna push the foot brake. Its not common but def helpful especially if you are at an event and your hand brake decides to start acting up.

[bataangpinoy]

Exactly. Its only to assist the caliper to lock. The arms on stock calipers partially seize and wont completely lock up sometime no matter how much you adjust it and by bumping the foot brake it will give the little movement you need to get a good lock. Ive normally had the problem with one caliper not locking up and the other is ok but with a welded diff it still wont lock both tires so I bump the foot brake to get it to. Mainly only during transition. Depending on the corner your transitioning into is to how hard you wanna push the foot brake. Its not common but def helpful especially if you are at an event and your hand brake decides to start acting up.


makes sense. I wish I could find some OEM style pads with an really aggressive initial bite.

[yokotavia]

Project Mu has their D1 spec rear pads that are really aggressive

http://www.frsport.com/Project-Mu-PDR230-D1-Spec-Rear-Brake-Pads-for-S13-S14-S15-Silvia_p_14049.html

[HellaDough]

This a bit off topic but I hard some shops don't even know how to fuck with traction and toe rods. Just rica and toe. I this true? To get alighned right do ou need to take it to a specialty shop? Like motorsports shop?

[yokotavia]

Most normal alignment machines won't measure rear caster, which is dialed in with the traction rods. They should be able to do everything else though, you may need to explain your aftermarket arms though. Just make sure the machine is up to date. If its old it may be very tedious to use and its not uncommon for techs to cut corners because of it. Usually big tire distribution shops and dealerships have nice machines. Your best bet is still a race shop.

[KA240SX808]

You can determine your Traction Rod length if you know your RUCA length. Do some bumpsteer calc for the rear and you can adjust the trac rod length to your desired toe curve under droop and compression.

[pacotaco345]

You can determine your Traction Rod length if you know your RUCA length. Do some bumpsteer calc for the rear and you can adjust the trac rod length to your desired toe curve under droop and compression.

Is there any formula/math that you know to do this? I've been wanting to get traction rods but I can't justify it because I don't know how to adjust them/what adjusting them actually does.

[KA240SX808]

There is. I have it saved somewhere. I'll try to look for it. Unless someone finds it before me.

[cmg]

Any shop that does alignments should be able to adjust everything except rear caster. Some alignment machines wont show rear caster. No need to really mess with that anyways.

[word sux]

I am pretty sure that there are no alignment machines that can measure rear caster since you can't sweep the rear wheels. Most shops don't want to mess with aftermarket arms, if your located in the south ny area pm me and I can align it.


and kid I would love that formula, I have always just set my rear traction rods to the stock length.

[pacotaco345]

There is. I have it saved somewhere. I'll try to look for it. Unless someone finds it before me.

Cool thanks! I have summer plans for my car that include new wheels/tires and an actual alignment from a friends shop so that would be great

[KA240SX808]

I will advise you guys that IIRC the measurements were taken and formulated using an S14. Not quite sure if the Angle of the RLCA (Anti-Squat) plays a part in the determination of the Trac Rod/Toe curve you want.

paco - send me a PM with your eMail and I'll send you a copy when I find that xls
word - hit me up on 240SXF

[Chris28]

Hey guys, looking for some pointers for more aggressive transfers. I've gotten into the habit of e-braking every transfer because it's more predictable and I can put the car exactly where I want it. I guess it's not a bad thing, but I'd like to be able to transfer faster and stay on the power more. It seems like when I don't use the e-brake I always spin, mainly due to the car rotating faster than the steering wheel can keep up. Last weekend I tried a few runs without the e-brake, and on the downhill section I gained way too much speed and had to reach for the e-brake to scrub some off. Any input on how to get away from the e-brake while still maintaining reasonable speeds?

Here's a video from last event, you can really see how much I rely on the e-brake for pretty much everything.

jAa1wRKLPlU

[One_love_silvia]

Have you tried just releasing the gas pedal, and letting the steering wheel spin back where it needs to be, and then catch it? You can use the gas and steering wheel to put the car wheee you want it.

[Chris28]

I did for a few runs, but the way I'm used to getting angle is with the e-brake. Without it I was using throttle to get to the angle I wanted, but at that point I was going too fast and had to scrub speed with the e-brake. I know I just need to drive an event with the ebrake taped down or something, but I'm wondering if anyone else has ever had to break a nasty ebrake habit and how they did it haha.

[fckillerbee]

Hey guys, looking for some pointers for more aggressive transfers. I've gotten into the habit of e-braking every transfer because it's more predictable and I can put the car exactly where I want it. I guess it's not a bad thing, but I'd like to be able to transfer faster and stay on the power more. It seems like when I don't use the e-brake I always spin, mainly due to the car rotating faster than the steering wheel can keep up. Last weekend I tried a few runs without the e-brake, and on the downhill section I gained way too much speed and had to reach for the e-brake to scrub some off. Any input on how to get away from the e-brake while still maintaining reasonable speeds?

Here's a video from last event, you can really see how much I rely on the e-brake for pretty much everything.

jAa1wRKLPlU


it's your hands. Keep them at the normal 10 and 2. let the steering wheel do the work for you. You are trying too hard to keep the car drifting...stay on the throttle, and feel the weight shake back and forth when you lift and get back on throttle. Your hands should only be there to help the input. Steer by throttle.

this was a few years back...but i'm sure you get the idea.

in car steering wheel drifting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK-Smhl2TC4)

[HellaDough]

damn i wish some one would make an instructionall video for the noobs you know. something to get them rolling.

[fckillerbee]

damn i wish some one would make an instructionall video for the noobs you know. something to get them rolling.

they called it the drift bible.


noobs just need to go to a track event and actually ASK instructors for help. One day at the track, will teach you everything basic. After 5 events, you should be able to drift with the rest of them.

[JohnnyDrfiter22]

Chris28 its your hands and your letting off the throttle to much. From what the in car looks like your car front tires are pushing and your rear tires are gripping.

Trying clutch kicking instead of ebraking and use the ebrake to scrub speed, gain angle

[702s13]

fckillerbee... you make it look so easy! i love how your still n/a ka in that vid too, just shows you dont need gobs of power to be able to drift good. i cant wait till im that confident in my drifts like that.

[fckillerbee]

fckillerbee... you make it look so easy! i love how your still n/a ka in that vid too, just shows you dont need gobs of power to be able to drift good. i cant wait till im that confident in my drifts like that.


and that motor was slow as shit lol. those are 205 55 16's. tire pressure is around 50 psi cold. 1 degree of rear camber. zero toe around. -4.5 camber front. I believe I was running Federal RS tires in the front...it makes KA's a lot easier to drift with grippy up front.

Car setup is very important to accel quickley in a car. Not some super serious setup, but at least an alignment, and propper front tires. Each driver is different...so your preferences may change.

[702s13]

thats alot of camber im wondering if i should give mine a little more, im at -1.9 front and
-.8 rear, .10 front toe, on coils.. and my pressures are like 25 front and 50-55 rear cold. it drifts pretty well but my steering is nothing like yours. oh and my caster is stock ish lol.
and my front tires are pretty grippy, running 205/50r17 all around it kicks out pretty easy.

[di-devol]

I'm having a bit of trouble drifting in the new setup. I've drifted the whole time using a stock sr, now built motor, tomei 256's gt2871r @15psi. I'm having a really hard time getting the car to break loose, maybe I just need more time at it. It feels like the car is bogging alot more when initiating, did I really lose that much low end? I'm having to really rev it up before kicking it out now, that normal lol?

[fckillerbee]

I'm having a bit of trouble drifting in the new setup. I've drifted the whole time using a stock sr, now built motor, tomei 256's gt2871r @15psi. I'm having a really hard time getting the car to break loose, maybe I just need more time at it. It feels like the car is bogging alot more when initiating, did I really lose that much low end? I'm having to really rev it up before kicking it out now, that normal lol?

well...boost should start right under 4k depending on manifolds and other stuff. that's a pretty mild setup...and you shouldn't have any issues. same tires/ suspension setup as before? just more power?

[di-devol]

Turbo is an .86 I believe. Full boost is at 4500 or so.

Hmm went from -4ish camber in the rear to -1, tire size is little bigger, normally 225/45 to a 235/45/17. Different control arms up front, but I don't see how that would matter. I didn't get many runs in, just seemed really difficult to break her loose.

I thought maybe the clutch was slipping, but it's more of a bogging. Car pulls hard, and I don't smell clutch haha.

[fckillerbee]

Turbo is an .86 I believe. Full boost is at 4500 or so.

Hmm went from -4ish camber in the rear to -1, tire size is little bigger, normally 225/45 to a 235/45/17. Different control arms up front, but I don't see how that would matter. I didn't get many runs in, just seemed really difficult to break her loose.

I thought maybe the clutch was slipping, but it's more of a bogging. Car pulls hard, and I don't smell clutch haha.


changing front camber changes turn in and contact patch mid drift (more contact going strait, less contact while drifting...you'll feel more understeer). The control arms will make a difference...but not by much. and running a 235 will make it grippier, especially with that larger 45 series sidewall. You are just getting more grip out of the tire.

Sounds like you may need to just drive it really aggressive. try to get on the throttle sooner too....the turbo you are running is pretty much ideal....and i've driven more than a few with that setup. Try raising the tire pressure in 10lb intervals, and see if that helps with your bogging problem.

[di-devol]

I think that's the problem, I was just excited to be drifting again, I forgot I changed everything. I was just trying to drift like it was haha. Thanks!

[fckillerbee]

I think that's the problem, I was just excited to be drifting again, I forgot I changed everything. I was just trying to drift like it was haha. Thanks!


no worries man. Next time take an in car vid....i can give you advice from the passenger seat then. lol

[ziptie]

Here's a video from last event, you can really see how much I rely on the e-brake for pretty much everything.

jAa1wRKLPlU

I have the exact opposite problem, i learnt without the handbrake because mine was broken. The problem is I feel like im entering a lot later then i should be because of it.

[bataangpinoy]

I have the exact opposite problem, i learnt without the handbrake because mine was broken. The problem is I feel like im entering a lot later then i should be because of it.



Generally speaking, faster corners will allow one to use a multitude of techniques for early entries as you'll have more momentum to keep the car sliding.

I had the exact same problem, but only when entering super low speed corners (think 90* turns in a short, narrow industrial road). i dont think i was going more than 30mph because of how short and narrow the straight leading to the turn was.

[word sux]

Hey guys, looking for some pointers for more aggressive transfers. I've gotten into the habit of e-braking every transfer because it's more predictable and I can put the car exactly where I want it. I guess it's not a bad thing, but I'd like to be able to transfer faster and stay on the power more. It seems like when I don't use the e-brake I always spin, mainly due to the car rotating faster than the steering wheel can keep up. Last weekend I tried a few runs without the e-brake, and on the downhill section I gained way too much speed and had to reach for the e-brake to scrub some off. Any input on how to get away from the e-brake while still maintaining reasonable speeds?

Here's a video from last event, you can really see how much I rely on the e-brake for pretty much everything.

jAa1wRKLPlU



as stated before is seems like you need to let the car steer itself more


that being said, has your car been properly aligned? with a proper setup it will make things allot easier

[Chris28]

Thanks for the responses. Next track day is in a few weeks, I'll try to do more with the gas pedal and less with my hands. I haven't had the car aligned in a while, I'll be getting a real alignment before the track.

[Chris28]

Literally this video is what made me start using the e-brake so much. I guess it's just a safety factor thing, I only grab it on the 2nd half of the transfer, basically to control exactly how much angle the car gets and then go from there. I need to try other techniques, but after watching this video like 2 years ago I decided that e-braking was the best thing ever haha.
Deleted

[TrustS13]

Chris I know the feeling. I used to always clutch kick to initiate, but I do find ebrake to be more fun and precise. I think you do need to let the car steer itself more, and both hands on the wheel. I can't do the 1 hand wheel whip as well as you lol. I would say in your transfers let it go to almost full lock and romp on the gas while doing this also. I need to learn be more controlled (like you are) personally.

[TrustS13]

Here's a little clip from last week.
this was a fun little tight skid pad check it out
vLcJsgQPzMQ

[slammed04tsx]

Really enjoyed reading alot of info on here alot to information to grasp along with stuff to try to improve.

[whyteboi]

To all you guys that use the e-brake, what rear pads do you use. I'm looking for something to get better bite and lock up quicker. I was looking into getting the project mu d1 rears. Any thoughts?

[lbs_ft]

To all you guys that use the e-brake, what rear pads do you use. I'm looking for something to get better bite and lock up quicker. I was looking into getting the project mu d1 rears. Any thoughts?

D1's are pricy, but there is nothing better if you want to straight up lock the rear wheels. I actually sold the set I had after one event because I had gotten so used to e-braking on regular pads, that switching to the D1's changed everything I had gotten accustomed to and threw me way off hahaha

I'm serious. You so much as think about touching the e-brake handle and the rear tires lock the fuck up.

[whyteboi]

That's the thing. I want them to lock quick but I'm not sure if I should drop the money on them or just get something else.

[lbs_ft]

see if you can find a gently used set on here if you aren't willing to drop the money on a new set

[imoverherre]

I know it's a noob question but who drifts with out power steering or is it just me.....

And don't get me wrong I plan I putting it back on when I find the parts/ junkyards

[fckillerbee]

I know it's a noob question but who drifts with out power steering or is it just me.....

And don't get me wrong I plan I putting it back on when I find the parts/ junkyards

It's not entertaining to drift without on a 240. Corolla dudes run manual racks. Pretty common.

[KA240SX808]

Not a good idea.....

[whyteboi]

I'm a weaksause so I need powersteering.

[fckillerbee]

it's not even about being strong....it binds at full lock. when you cross "zero" it sticks. If you have shitty tires forget it.....

Anything slow sucks. If you are doing like 80mph drifts without dropping below 20mph...you are good.

[chiboy002]

To all you guys that use the e-brake, what rear pads do you use. I'm looking for something to get better bite and lock up quicker. I was looking into getting the project mu d1 rears. Any thoughts?
i ran all of last season on and off track, and the year before, with napa pads on an s13. both calipers worked right and the cable was tight but it does the job

if it bites too hard then you can't use it as much since it will throw you off, i prefer something that slows the rear down rather than completely stopping it, thats pretty much all you need to brake traction

[di-devol]

^Same. I'm using the cheapest pads from Napa, no issues here. I've thought about a hydro, but I don't "need" it yet, this works fine for me.

Driving at a local track tomorrow, I'll take some in car footage.

[di-devol]

Couple runs with the new set-up. Blew the t2 gasket on the way to the track, made it more difficult, but being aggressive really really helped. With the turbo spooling correctly for the next event, I shouldn't have any problems with it at all.


You can hear the clutch slip up top, I'm still having issues with that. With the gasket blown, it felt like I was fighting the car a bit as well.
42057416
42057746

[zeebrah]

^^ maybe its just me but you need to chillax with your hands. initiate sooner and let it steer itself. or initiate sooner and give the wheel one throw and let it spin to lock and hold it there. looks like youre trying to have your hands on the wheel at all times thus somewhat slowing it down when spinning it. pretty good besides that and sick video. and track looks mad fun ^_^

[di-devol]

Yea lol, the combined complexity of the turbo gasket and a slipping clutch made it un- predictable. I was fighting the car. Thanks though!

[Tearlessj]

I move my hands all over the wheel. I don't really plan on changing it that much. It doesn't really hinder my driving that much. If it works for you than you don't have to change it.

Entry into 90's at MIR. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42059192)

[jesse_s13]

I move my hands all over the wheel. I don't really plan on changing it that much. It doesn't really hinder my driving that much. If it works for you than you don't have to change it.

Entry into 90's at MIR. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42059192)

That was pretty bad ass

[zeebrah]

damn that was legit. i still cringe when i see so much hand action haha. but ya if it works then fuck ya stick to it

[Tearlessj]

Thanks,

I'm going to try to cut down at the next event and see how it is. I can probably do a little less. It might have to do with me needing a bucket seat too. lol

[tscharf]

that video was pretty legit

[bataangpinoy]

bucket seat

will make things a shit ton easier

[conrad_s13.5]

i try not to move my hands much,.. cuz in weird situations you end up fumbling over yourself i feel like.

but everyones different. I think gittin still drives with one hand..?...lol

yyGQYq2AgtM

[zeebrah]

disregard music and lame editing haha..AND disregard its a slowass single cam that can hardly hold a decent size turn. and slipping clutch..hahah. yea its time for new everything :down:. Anyways i *try* to not let my hands cross over as much as possible. at least for me i like this because if i need a correction my hands are already in place to fix...and yea agreed with conrad i feel like my hands are in the way of each other. But pointers appreciated :bow:

Adams Motorsports Park Drifting to some sweet ass Ke$ha! SINGLE CAM 240sx s13.5 Joe MacDonald - YouTube (http://youtu.be/_QD6pzyxJlc)

[di-devol]

I can disregard everything but the angle of the camera, now my neck hurts lol. Looks good for a singlecam.

[fckillerbee]

I move my hands all over the wheel. I don't really plan on changing it that much. It doesn't really hinder my driving that much. If it works for you than you don't have to change it.

Entry into 90's at MIR. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42059192)

Looks good. Looks as if your caster settings are really low, or you are running shitty front tires.

Get yourself a good wheel...i don't know how you drive with it having those bumps all over the wheel...would drive me nuts. lol.

[fckillerbee]

disregard music and lame editing haha..AND disregard its a slowass single cam that can hardly hold a decent size turn. and slipping clutch..hahah. yea its time for new everything :down:. Anyways i *try* to not let my hands cross over as much as possible. at least for me i like this because if i need a correction my hands are already in place to fix...and yea agreed with conrad i feel like my hands are in the way of each other. But pointers appreciated :bow:

Adams Motorsports Park Drifting to some sweet ass Ke$ha! SINGLE CAM 240sx s13.5 Joe MacDonald - YouTube (http://youtu.be/_QD6pzyxJlc)


looks god. You def have that weight shifting down. Now all you need to do is perfect your line...but that's in time. Try doing some road racing..it helps.

[zeebrah]

I can disregard everything but the angle of the camera, now my neck hurts lol. Looks good for a singlecam.

haha muhhh bad.

hey so what do people do to scrub speed?..yet still have angle. like in a single cam i basically just go wot in a straight like and hit ebrake then back to wot. im afraid if i flick towards then away from the wall it wont have the power or speed to bring it back around...?

[fckillerbee]

i try not to move my hands much,.. cuz in weird situations you end up fumbling over yourself i feel like.

but everyones different. I think gittin still drives with one hand..?...lol

yyGQYq2AgtM


he does drive with one hand sparingly. I dont even think he realizes he still does it.

at the end, you found yourself correcting, and over correcting, a good front tire setup will help with that a lot.

that track looks fucking awesome to drive...is that the same track they have pro am at?

[zeebrah]

looks god. You def have that weight shifting down. Now all you need to do is perfect your line...but that's in time. Try doing some road racing..it helps.

well i usually try to just hit the ghetto 'clipping zones' at that track which in my opinion are a terrible line haha. so what do you suggest...like a wider or more shallow line?

[fckillerbee]

well i usually try to just hit the ghetto 'clipping zones' at that track which in my opinion are a terrible line haha. so what do you suggest...like a wider or more shallow line?

one thing you notice with your single cam, is you have to keep the speed up. Which means that your wheel speed needs to be faster then you are traveling.

Instead of doing hard flicks, and laying on throttle, and then shooting for the clipping, try weight shifting a little lighter, and gradually add angle. It'll keep your wheel speed up, and make sure your lines are smooth. It'll help with that last outside clip coming out of that chicane following entry.

[fckillerbee]

Couple runs with the new set-up. Blew the t2 gasket on the way to the track, made it more difficult, but being aggressive really really helped. With the turbo spooling correctly for the next event, I shouldn't have any problems with it at all.


You can hear the clutch slip up top, I'm still having issues with that. With the gasket blown, it felt like I was fighting the car a bit as well.
42057416
42057746


first vid was dope.

second vid you could tell you were off line a little towards the end.

everything looked awesome man. You can tell your car is low, and you are receiving bump steer (it's whats making you turn in super fast, having to correct). Only thing that'll fix that is ride height/more tire sidewall.

You can tell you are running some big tires on what looks to be about 230whp. Maybe a 245 in the rear or something smaller with 30 psi?

Try not to play with the clutch too much, and focus on timing (boost). At the end of that last video, you were coming into a right turn from a left, you can see you straigten, and then clutch kick. when you just past the zero point of your transition, you should already start building boost. practice feathering the throttle a little...to keep it in boost, but not give you huge wheel spin.

Other than this...just practice. It's a tight course, and you do a good job keeping it on course. Noobs would be dirt dropping and going off track all day.

[di-devol]

Thanks so much!
You are good, I have roll center, but have not adjusted bump steer at all. I was running a 235/45 at 45psi in the rear.

The power is the thing, I should be close to 340ish whp lol, this was a gt2871r .86 @ 16psi.. I had to keep it revved up so high just to make boost with the turbo gasket blown. Next event I'll get more footage, should be alot smoother with the power actually there.

Thanks again!

[conrad_s13.5]

he does drive with one hand sparingly. I dont even think he realizes he still does it.

at the end, you found yourself correcting, and over correcting, a good front tire setup will help with that a lot.

that track looks fucking awesome to drive...is that the same track they have pro am at?

Appreciate it man,..yeah, i did have some shit tires that day...lol
I also scrubbed a lil too much speed with the angle before and couldnt throw the weight into that last turn,...kinda just compensating, trying to keep drifting threw it.

that track is fun,..def my favorite by far. 2 day event in 2 weeks if you're interested. (not sure where you're located)
..and dnt think any serious events have ever been here, more like an excuse for everyone to come hangout and get seat time!

[zeebrah]

one thing you notice with your single cam, is you have to keep the speed up. Which means that your wheel speed needs to be faster then you are traveling.

Instead of doing hard flicks, and laying on throttle, and then shooting for the clipping, try weight shifting a little lighter, and gradually add angle. It'll keep your wheel speed up, and make sure your lines are smooth. It'll help with that last outside clip coming out of that chicane following entry.

hahah you are good. thanks man! hopefully going out this weekend. idk if my buddy with the camera will be going but if so ill try to watch myself and see

[Tearlessj]

Looks good. Looks as if your caster settings are really low, or you are running shitty front tires.

Get yourself a good wheel...i don't know how you drive with it having those bumps all over the wheel...would drive me nuts. lol.

The tires were DONE. They were just some Hankook V12s that I used all last season. They we're already cording on that run. I can't wait to get new tires!

[StandLow_Ralphy]

Perfect thread for new-born drifting skills to get better ^_^

[iamtheyi]

I was wondering, I currently have a s13 two row radiator on my S14, and to be honest, it looks pretty janky. For those who drift, does the stock s14 ka radiator with stock e-fan and clutch fan cool enough for track days?

Thinking about taking out the s13 radiator until I can get myself a Mishimoto radiator later on.

[pacotaco345]

I was wondering, I currently have a s13 two row radiator on my S14, and to be honest, it looks pretty janky. For those who drift, does the stock s14 ka radiator with stock e-fan and clutch fan cool enough for track days?

Thinking about taking out the s13 radiator until I can get myself a Mishimoto radiator later on.

Sell it to me? I need to make my car texas proof.

[iamtheyi]

Sell it to me? I need to make my car texas proof.

Well first I have to find out whether or not stock radiator is track proof lol.

[whyteboi]

Well first I have to find out whether or not stock radiator is track proof lol.

If your running a stock KA I don't see how you would have an issue.

[Brian]

my car got pretty hot sometimes ( running multiple laps in 110+ heat at Willow Springs), but never overheated

[iamtheyi]

Well Brian, if you did it, my car probably could too. I wonder how FCkb's car did. I know he ran stock KA for awhile too.

[fckillerbee]

Well Brian, if you did it, my car probably could too. I wonder how FCkb's car did. I know he ran stock KA for awhile too.

After about 2 laps, the car would lose a little power in the heat.... but it never hurts to make the car run better.

Honestly, running distilled water and water wetter worked really well for temps after I replaced the KA the first time. Also running a hood vent helped a huge amount with temps. I remember driving to track, and it wouldn't even get warm...lol. KA's are awesome.

[pacotaco345]

After about 2 laps, the car would lose a little power in the heat.... but it never hurts to make the car run better.

Honestly, running distilled water and water wetter worked really well for temps after I replaced the KA the first time. Also running a hood vent helped a huge amount with temps. I remember driving to track, and it wouldn't even get warm...lol. KA's are awesome.

Huh, I'll proly get hood spacers then and run some water wetter.. And fill up my radiator with distilled water instead of a hose haha. And iamtheyi, I'm serious about that radiator haha just lmk.

[diacris]

I have an auto KA. Even harder to drift :naw:
But I do have a welded diff :D. Since I can't clutch kick, I have to be cranking the wheel really deep just lose traction. Inflating the rears to 50 psi helps too :rolleyes:n Oh, and I have to keep the shifter in 1st. Only goes up to like 35 before I'm about to send the KA to hell.

[fckillerbee]

I have an auto KA. Even harder to drift :naw:
But I do have a welded diff :D. Since I can't clutch kick, I have to be cranking the wheel really deep just lose traction. Inflating the rears to 50 psi helps too :rolleyes:n Oh, and I have to keep the shifter in 1st. Only goes up to like 35 before I'm about to send the KA to hell.

leave it in second ;D

[fckillerbee]

Huh, I'll proly get hood spacers then and run some water wetter.. And fill up my radiator with distilled water instead of a hose haha. And iamtheyi, I'm serious about that radiator haha just lmk.


Yeah, according to the owner of baker performance (brothers with owner of neo synthetics), Darlene says normal water has minerals that will stick to the motor and cause hot spots...which can in turn collect, and permanently damage the motor. She's the one that recommended this setup..just don't go to the mountains or your rad will freeze over. lol.

[iamtheyi]

Yeah, according to the owner of baker performance (brothers with owner of neo synthetics), Darlene says normal water has minerals that will stick to the motor and cause hot spots...which can in turn collect, and permanently damage the motor. She's the one that recommended this setup..just don't go to the mountains or your rad will freeze over. lol.

Lol it gets cold at Willow Springs enough to snow in the nearby region. Is that close enough haha.

Wouldn't running 50/50 be ideal because the coolant also acts as a lubricant for the water pump?

[pacotaco345]

Lol it gets cold at Willow Springs enough to snow in the nearby region. Is that close enough haha.

Wouldn't running 50/50 be ideal because the coolant also acts as a lubricant for the water pump?

To my understanding, coolant doesn't actually make the car run any cooler, it raises the boiling point of the water enabling you to run it hotter with less risk of damage. The reason why water wetter works is because it breaks up the surface tension of the water allowing it to flow more easily.

[mitcheyismyname]

Well then..................................... :P

I'd take it to a track if we had one buddy.

[TrustS13]

^ in before you get removed for skreet sliding.

[di-devol]

Alright, I got to drift this morning for a while with the new turbo. Doesn't seem too laggy, but being on this short track it does seem to fall outta boost alot. I found myself actually modulating the clutch alot to compensate for that. Is this a bad habbit? Serious smoke show though.

[vibe240]

stock sr20 at 7psi

EVxfRIr-40c

what do you guys think ?

[DRIFTER-M]

Ok, so for some reason, even though I have been around forever - I still seem to disagree with some...

I have a super-Q 2way Kaaz.

When my clutch is in, doesn't the diff go back to open gear?

When the clutch is not in, it locks up (basically on and off throttle).

Some people say 2ways are not suppose to change when the clutch is initiated. I know mine does, it dips sharper into the corner when I clutch in.

Call me wrong or right, just let me know! Thanks!

[KA240SX808]

Its a 2-way meaning it locks on both accel and deccel at the same rates/percentage.

[DRIFTER-M]

^ Yes I know that, the question is - does it unlock when you press the clutch in? My diff def. does something if I push my clutch in to shift while turning. It feels like it unlocks.

[Tearlessj]

stock sr20 at 7psi

EVxfRIr-40c

what do you guys think ?


Looking pretty good. I would try to focus on a little more angle, but besides that seems like you got it down.

You move your hands like mine too. haha

[KA240SX808]

^ Yes I know that, the question is - does it unlock when you press the clutch in? My diff def. does something if I push my clutch in to shift while turning. It feels like it unlocks.

Ah got it,sorry.
AFAIK yes it's suppose to unlock as there is no accel or deccel load being put on the drivetrain.

[DRIFTER-M]

^

:bigok:

Thanks KA240SX808!!!

[fckillerbee]

stock sr20 at 7psi

EVxfRIr-40c

what do you guys think ?



raise the rear psi (makes it easier to keep sliding)...get better front tires ...maybe something with more sidewall so your turn in actually works, and you aren't understeering till the car actually rotates.

The bumpsteer is cause your car is low....maybe add a little bit of caster so you aren't fighting the wheel too much?

I like the course...your lines looked good.

[jasoncanseeoh]

My car has never had much rear grip. 225/40/18 tires and I would run about 40-60psi at the track.

If I had the chance, I would go back and give my car more rear grip (softer dampening in the rear, less tire pressure, etc) and test it out. But, for some reason I just got comfy with my setup and never looked back. Not sure when the next time I'll be hitting the track is, but I had a few questions.

Quick questions about grip.
-If I added more grip, does that help prevent spinning out? (Not that I've had issues with spinning or anything, I'm just wondering if it would keep the car 'balanced' in a sense...)

-What advantages will I get by adding more grip?

-Is there such a thing as too much grip? Not enough grip?

I have about 250whp, which doesn't seem much to me. I always felt like if I added more grip, I'd have to clutch kick a bunch and fight the car to keep it sideways.

Idk what I'm saying. I'm new to this whole grip thing. Someone learn me!!!
I suppose it would be best if I had more testing time on the track to play with settings, but people's opinions on the topic is always great.

[vibe240]

thanks for your comments !

here are 2 runs from the other track that we run quite often , I know I should get more angles but if I want to run the whole track linking turn I need to sacrifice some angles for speed as I don't have a lot of powers.



QFx5i8bnBYM



wUHS9S1Xv2M


2t2ayK6iXlQ


I'm pretty stock ... welded vlsd , megan coil ,sr20 running 205/55r16 , 205/40r17 , 215/45r17 .225/50r17 or 235/45r17 at 40psi

Need to put the boost at 12psi pretty soon

[jasoncanseeoh]

My car has never had much rear grip. 225/40/18 tires and I would run about 40-60psi at the track.

If I had the chance, I would go back and give my car more rear grip (softer dampening in the rear, less tire pressure, etc) and test it out. But, for some reason I just got comfy with my setup and never looked back. Not sure when the next time I'll be hitting the track is, but I had a few questions.

Quick questions about grip.
-If I added more grip, does that help prevent spinning out? (Not that I've had issues with spinning or anything, I'm just wondering if it would keep the car 'balanced' in a sense...)

-What advantages will I get by adding more grip?

-Is there such a thing as too much grip? Not enough grip?

I have about 250whp, which doesn't seem much to me. I always felt like if I added more grip, I'd have to clutch kick a bunch and fight the car to keep it sideways.

Idk what I'm saying. I'm new to this whole grip thing. Someone learn me!!!
I suppose it would be best if I had more testing time on the track to play with settings, but people's opinions on the topic is always great.
Nobody haz da inputz abowt da grip?

[karl wasabi]

My car has never had much rear grip. 225/40/18 tires and I would run about 40-60psi at the track.

If I had the chance, I would go back and give my car more rear grip (softer dampening in the rear, less tire pressure, etc) and test it out. But, for some reason I just got comfy with my setup and never looked back. Not sure when the next time I'll be hitting the track is, but I had a few questions.

Quick questions about grip.
-If I added more grip, does that help prevent spinning out? (Not that I've had issues with spinning or anything, I'm just wondering if it would keep the car 'balanced' in a sense...)

-What advantages will I get by adding more grip?

-Is there such a thing as too much grip? Not enough grip?

I have about 250whp, which doesn't seem much to me. I always felt like if I added more grip, I'd have to clutch kick a bunch and fight the car to keep it sideways.

Idk what I'm saying. I'm new to this whole grip thing. Someone learn me!!!
I suppose it would be best if I had more testing time on the track to play with settings, but people's opinions on the topic is always great.

You solved your problem for finding more grip. Run a bigger rear tire, grippier rear tire, lower the tire pressure to like 35, run a softer spring, maybe get an S14 rear subframe.

More grip in the rear won't necessarily prevent you from spinning out, but it will allow you to accelerate through corners instead of just staying at one constant speed in the corner. You shouldn't have any problems spinning a 245 or 255 with your power.

[fckillerbee]

You solved your problem for finding more grip. Run a bigger rear tire, grippier rear tire, lower the tire pressure to like 35, run a softer spring, maybe get an S14 rear subframe.

More grip in the rear won't necessarily prevent you from spinning out, but it will allow you to accelerate through corners instead of just staying at one constant speed in the corner. You shouldn't have any problems spinning a 245 or 255 with your power.

I think I ran 245's on JXN's stock SR for the TOP GUN event years ago.

too much grip, and you understeer, too little grip and you oversteer. Like Karl said...softer spring rates, lower tire pressure, subframe, all these things add grip. The course also plays a big role with how much power and tire you should use...but that's later. Lower the tire pressure first (5 psi at a time) and see how you like it. I have buddies running 12 psi cold on occasion depending on tire grip.....you could also remove rear sway bar to add a lot of grip. It's just a matter of finding the right setup to your liking.

[Landers]

https://vimeo.com/45101647
everytime i try to embed it says video does not exist.

In car from East coast bash
S15 sr with gtx2863 810cc injectors and jim wolf tune
Stance xr coilovers, and Stance arms

215/40 17 RT615k in front @ 35psi
225/45 17 or 235/45 17 Kendas in the rear @ 38 psi

[di-devol]

^Here ya go
45101647

and, dammmmm, that was close in the first shot!

[iamtheyi]

https://vimeo.com/45101647
everytime i try to embed it says video does not exist.

In car from East coast bash
S15 sr with gtx2863 810cc injectors and jim wolf tune
Stance xr coilovers, and Stance arms

215/40 17 RT615k in front @ 35psi
225/45 17 or 235/45 17 Kendas in the rear @ 38 psi

I enjoyed your video very much lol.

[SERUM]

How many of you guys have lockouts washers or whatever? I have adjustable arms, and after maybe two to three nights out my alignment is fucked again. Would having the eccentrics in backwards matter?

I noticed this when I quit being able to transition. Looked under the car and what do ya know, they've turned themselves.

[fckillerbee]

How many of you guys have lockouts washers or whatever? I have adjustable arms, and after maybe two to three nights out my alignment is fucked again. Would having the eccentrics in backwards matter?

I noticed this when I quit being able to transition. Looked under the car and what do ya know, they've turned themselves.

use locktite.

[KA240SX808]

Well what your suppose to do (at least logic would tell me) put the eccentric bolt at its minimum adjustment (all the way in) and tighten it and use your arm to adjust. That way the chances of the bolt coming loose or messing up your alignment again is minimal because the bolt has no where to go as far as adjustment.

I had my car like that for years and never had a problem with them coming loose.
I did opt for the BB lockouts later though.

[iamtheyi]

I am currently deciding between picking up new wheels or spending that money towards chassis rigidity/suspension parts.

Would buying aftermarket sway bars (thinking about Suspension Technique) and strut bars, different chassis stiffening parts make enough of a difference in drifting a stock KA? Would it benefit me a lot more than lighter wheels and being cool with them? :)

[fckillerbee]

I am currently deciding between picking up new wheels or spending that money towards chassis rigidity/suspension parts.

Would buying aftermarket sway bars (thinking about Suspension Technique) and strut bars, different chassis stiffening parts make enough of a difference in drifting a stock KA? Would it benefit me a lot more than lighter wheels and being cool with them? :)


tires.

sway bar isn't a huge factor on low power cars as much as tires would be.

buy a good set of grippy front tires.

KA: no front sway, add rear sway, helps the car rotate a little easier. Add grip, remove rear sway. Front sway helps stabilize the front a little while drifting. Usually you aren't fighting grip enough to add front sway. Watch Aasbo's video of gatebill in his 2J 86. All that steering feedback is from not having a legit front sway.

[iamtheyi]

tires.

sway bar isn't a huge factor on low power cars as much as tires would be.

buy a good set of grippy front tires.

KA: no front sway, add rear sway, helps the car rotate a little easier. Add grip, remove rear sway. Front sway helps stabilize the front a little while drifting. Usually you aren't fighting grip enough to add front sway. Watch Aasbo's video of gatebill in his 2J 86. All that steering feedback is from not having a legit front sway.

Thanks. Do you have any sticky tire recommendations? I was talking to someone yesterday and they said Federal 595 RSR's were real sticky.

Also, any rear sway bar recommendations? Or can I just throw anything on there?

[fckillerbee]

Thanks. Do you have any sticky tire recommendations? I was talking to someone yesterday and they said Federal 595 RSR's were real sticky.

Also, any rear sway bar recommendations? Or can I just throw anything on there?


RSR's are nice. They are grippy right out of the bag. My next set I want to try the new 615k models. Heard good things.

anything stiffer than stock. But you could always just raise the tire pressure 10lbs too.

[whyteboi]

Play with your air pressures. You'll be surprised what you can do with just some air.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7583469450_84957134b2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79800542@N04/7583469450/)

Stock KA24DE with coils, welded diff, and a good alignment. I was running about 65psi or so on the rear this day.

[iamtheyi]

Play with your air pressures. You'll be surprised what you can do with just some air.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7583469450_84957134b2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79800542@N04/7583469450/)

Stock KA24DE with coils, welded diff, and a good alignment. I was running about 65psi or so on the rear this day.

huh. Maybe I should bump the psi more in the rear then. I run 35 psi up front and 50 psi in the rear. Running heavy G35 17's doesn't help either lol.

On Balcony I was able to kind of do it. Couldn't really keep it because the clutch was dying but at Adam's motosports I definitely could not carry it. But I'm not going back to Adam's so it is irrelevant to my setup now.

[whyteboi]

huh. Maybe I should bump the psi more in the rear then. I run 35 psi up front and 50 psi in the rear. Running heavy G35 17's doesn't help either lol.

On Balcony I was able to kind of do it. Couldn't really keep it because the clutch was dying but at Adam's motosports I definitely could not carry it. But I'm not going back to Adam's so it is irrelevant to my setup now.

What tire size are you running on the rear? You'll need alot more pressure running 17's. I was running 205/60/15 on the rear there. I run 15's since I have a bunch of teardrops and because they're cheap :wiggle:

[iamtheyi]

What tire size are you running on the rear? You'll need alot more pressure running 17's. I was running 205/60/15 on the rear there. I run 15's since I have a bunch of teardrops and because they're cheap :wiggle:

Currently going to be running 215/45/17. Used to run 225 but it was hard to spin those fat boys.

[fckillerbee]

Currently going to be running 215/45/17. Used to run 225 but it was hard to spin those fat boys.

run some 205 40's. They are cheaper as well as less grippy.

think of sidewall like suspension. The more sidewall you have, the more compression under accel. The more grip you will get. stiffen the sidewall by adding more air. That will allow them to balloon and create a little less contact patch as well as creating less compression.

run your front tires around 32 for better grip overall.

[bataangpinoy]

how would 205/40/17 look on a 17x9 or 17x8?

[fckillerbee]

how would 205/40/17 look on a 17x9 or 17x8?

17x9
http://otto-fab.com/pics/IMG00111-20091101-1601_svttire.jpg

[bataangpinoy]

that shit cray.

[pacotaco345]

17x9
http://otto-fab.com/pics/IMG00111-20091101-1601_svttire.jpg

I regret getting my deep dish cobra reps instead of these wheels :(

[fckillerbee]

I regret getting my deep dish cobra reps instead of these wheels :(

I love cobra reps with dish. They always looked cool.

cody from mulsanne painted his purple, and they looked rad!

[cmg]

Does anyone droop their rear springs?

After several setups and testing different things to see what was suitable for me I figured out a few things for myself. First, I always put very slight preload on my front springs and droop the rear springs (amount hasnt seemed to matter). Second, I generally dont run a front sway bar but keep a stock rear one. Third, It helps to have somewhere between 3.5-4* negative camber in the front to help with traction and a flat contact patch at full lock (have had pbm knuckles and a custom set made by myself).

It seems as though initiating and transistions are smoother without the front sway bar. Also when drooping the springs it seems to squat a little more and helps with a little traction. All of my setups have been from stock s13 sr power range to now ~400hp sr. With the higher power setup its helpful to have a grippy set of rear tires but lowering my tire pressure and/or running directional tires the opposite way seems to help with grip too.

Anyone have any input or ideas on this?

[pacotaco345]

I love cobra reps with dish. They always looked cool.

cody from mulsanne painted his purple, and they looked rad!


I saw his car in person a couple times, I don't have overfenders though just stock metal pulled to hell lol.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e392/pacotaco345/e781ba21.jpg

I was throwin around the idea of painting them white but idk.. Either way my next set of rear tires is gonna be a 245/40 instead of the current 225/45's. Its a lil lower and has a lil more rear camber then this pic now

EDIT.. Make that a lot lower haha

To be somewhat relevant... what psi were you running with your stock ka and big fat wheels? I did a 2nd gear lots of throttle clutchkick the other day (not full throttle) and the car just gripped.. But this was with almost 0 camber and 40 psi, now I have the same psi and about 3* camber

[karl wasabi]

Does anyone droop their rear springs?

After several setups and testing different things to see what was suitable for me I figured out a few things for myself. First, I always put very slight preload on my front springs and droop the rear springs (amount hasnt seemed to matter). Second, I generally dont run a front sway bar but keep a stock rear one. Third, It helps to have somewhere between 3.5-4* negative camber in the front to help with traction and a flat contact patch at full lock (have had pbm knuckles and a custom set made by myself).

It seems as though initiating and transistions are smoother without the front sway bar. Also when drooping the springs it seems to squat a little more and helps with a little traction. All of my setups have been from stock s13 sr power range to now ~400hp sr. With the higher power setup its helpful to have a grippy set of rear tires but lowering my tire pressure and/or running directional tires the opposite way seems to help with grip too.

Anyone have any input or ideas on this?

I've always heard you should never droop your coilovers. Why don't you set the spring perches so that the spring is secured top and bottom? Don't add any pre-load but just make sure the spring doesn't move up and down. You'll still have a little droop with the full range of your shock.

If you want more squat soften the rear dampening/spring a bit and if you need more raise the front suspension.

[KA240SX808]

+1. Adding Spring droop/play just takes away shock travel. I just set the Rears to hold the springs with no preload.

Unless you don't have Independent height adjust-ability is why your doing that?

[Perfect Balance]

Frequently the rear coilovers bottom out in the mounts before the mounts hit the perches, and the only way to go lower from that point is to droop the springs.

[KA240SX808]

I suppose. But at that point I'm pretty sure your geometry is all out of wack and should be looking into rear knuckles at that point IMO.

[cmg]

I've always heard you should never droop your coilovers. Why don't you set the spring perches so that the spring is secured top and bottom? Don't add any pre-load but just make sure the spring doesn't move up and down. You'll still have a little droop with the full range of your shock.

If you want more squat soften the rear dampening/spring a bit and if you need more raise the front suspension.

If I had a track only car I would most def set the suspension up with more care. Its a daily and weekend car so looks matter as well. Im still unsure if drooping helped me but it seemed as though it did.

+1. Adding Spring droop/play just takes away shock travel. I just set the Rears to hold the springs with no preload.

Unless you don't have Independent height adjust-ability is why your doing that?

I do have height adjustability. My stance coilovers on a previous setup had more adjustability with the mount but still wasn't enough. Same with BC coilovers. Im using an old set I had (kts) and still wont go low enough without droop. Ive never seemed to have a problem with not having enough travel. Tire always hits before the coilover bottoms out.

Frequently the rear coilovers bottom out in the mounts before the mounts hit the perches, and the only way to go lower from that point is to droop the springs.

Bingo.

I suppose. But at that point I'm pretty sure your geometry is all out of wack and should be looking into rear knuckles at that point IMO.

My suspension geometry is way out of way. I have risers but that helps very little. More of a solid bushing more exhaust tucking room part. Modded rear knuckles would def allow the car to go as low as I want without drooping the springs. I just dont see it being a neccessary purchase on my daily at the moment.

[LayNLow]

Any pointers? Video from an event at the beginning of the year.
https://vimeo.com/32021384
Stock sr, pbm hmic, 14psi, stock knuckles, no front sway bar.

I lowered it after this, and the car just doesnt feel the same. Going to raise it back up before the next event it sees along with a few more changes.

[Z33dori]

doing great man, nice to see people learning and not using the ebrake ever 4 seconds

[Kamronman]

hahhahahahahaha the first to crack this!

[Kamronman]

Granny shifting, not double clutchin' like you should!



hahahahahahahahhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaa

[Tearlessj]

Any pointers? Video from an event at the beginning of the year.
https://vimeo.com/32021384
Stock sr, pbm hmic, 14psi, stock knuckles, no front sway bar.

I lowered it after this, and the car just doesnt feel the same. Going to raise it back up before the next event it sees along with a few more changes.
Just like I did Ty. We all learn, slammed = fail.

https://vimeo.com/46667863

Excuse the lack of drifting on my part.

[karl wasabi]

Any pointers? Video from an event at the beginning of the year.
https://vimeo.com/32021384
Stock sr, pbm hmic, 14psi, stock knuckles, no front sway bar.

I lowered it after this, and the car just doesnt feel the same. Going to raise it back up before the next event it sees along with a few more changes.

Try not to do such a huge feint on the straightaway before the first set of S turns. Doing that huge feint makes you go super wide on the turns and you're missing the apexes (still should be on a racing line when drifting). Maybe try caring as much speed on the straightaway as you can and ebrake initiate into the turn or just do a smaller feint and not clutch kick. Other than that it looks pretty good.

[Brian]

Just like I did Ty. We all learn, slammed = fail.


I would like to disagree. :aw:

[Lutz Performance]

Haruguchi highly disagrees lol

[Tearlessj]

Yea but you guys have cool cars.:cry:

[karl wasabi]

I would like to disagree. :aw:

I prefer the reversed rake pre-runner look.

[fckillerbee]

I prefer the reversed rake pre-runner look.

Karl, you have lower standards than that. You just prefer a running car.

and who said you couldn't slide while the car is sitting on the ground...anyone ever watch youtube?

[Tearlessj]

Of course you can. Some of us just do not like the way it drives. I'll take my reverse rake any day over when my car was "slammed".

[Lutz Performance]

I prefer the reversed rake pre-runner look.

i like them low with a lil bit of reverse rake

but at the end of the day nothing beats watching a car slammed into the asphalt that doing good. Just takes the right parts

[jasoncanseeoh]

Wow, this thread just died completely! I guess everyone knows how to drift now! LOL.

Anyway, quick question, I've tried to upshift mid-drift multiple times already and failed horribly (2nd gear to 3rd gear). And whenever I try to do so, I straighten out. EVEN if I try to upshift fast as hell, still no luck. How do people upshift mid-drift while keeping the same amount of angle (not losing drift)? Flat foot shifting?

Also, I've seen videos of people at Ebisu/Nikko and when they initiate, they initiate in third, then downshift into second. Same question basically.... how do they keep the drift even when they are off the throttle for solid amount of time? I'm guessing lots of angle on initiation or something like that, but if someone can enlighten me, that would be cool!

Here's a vid at Nikko just to explain what the hell I'm talking about. Skip to 1:46 to see the initation.
UTro-D04Z6U


I mean, it seems simple enough. Initiate in third, then downshift mid-drift. But, for some reason whenever I try to do some shit like this, I straighten out. Is it because I'm not throwing enough angle into it?

So, I asked two questions:
1. How do you upshift mid-drift without losing drift?
2. How do you downshift mid-drift without losing drift?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks dudes.

[JesusFreakDrifter]

i love watching the action on this track

[Brian]

up-shift ---- shoot, man, I never had enough power to do it. lol

down shift ---- seemed easy. I guess try and downshift when your RPM is still high enough to kick your tires' ass.

[whyteboi]

I've never gone 2nd to 3rd but from 1st to 2nd I keep my foot down on the gas bang the clutch and smack the trans into gear. I will probably break something soon..... My guess on shifting up would be having lots of power and/or going really really fast.

Downshifting depends on if you want to lock the rear by downshift it not. If you want to break traction with it then just downshift and let the clutch out, the rear will lock. That's pretty hard on car.

If you don't want to lock the rear then you will need to heal toe to keep the revs up and not upset the traction.

I don't know if that helps.

[bataangpinoy]

upshift-> its like a clutch kick. clutch in, select gear, clutch out and hammer down. nano second speed.
downshift- enter really fast, clutch in, let your speed come down and then select gear.

@ jason, i dont know if you noticed, but she grabs the ebrake quickly to keep the tires from grabbing. she's also entering relatively quickly.

[jasoncanseeoh]

up-shift ---- shoot, man, I never had enough power to do it. lol

down shift ---- seemed easy. I guess try and downshift when your RPM is still high enough to kick your tires' ass.
Any rev matching at all? I guess I just need to work on timing as to when I downshift, also how quick I downshift.

upshift-> its like a clutch kick. clutch in, select gear, clutch out and hammer down. nano second speed.
downshift- enter really fast, clutch in, let your speed come down and then select gear.

@ jason, i dont know if you noticed, but she grabs the ebrake quickly to keep the tires from grabbing. she's also entering relatively quickly.
When upshifting, you're not flat-footing it, right? Or are you?
And yeah, I noticed that as well, I wasn't sure if she HAD TO grab the e brake or not, that's all.

Looks like I'm gonna have to practice this a lot more!
Thanks for the help so far guys.

[bataangpinoy]

Any rev matching at all? I guess I just need to work on timing as to when I downshift, also how quick I downshift.


When upshifting, you're not flat-footing it, right? Or are you?
And yeah, I noticed that as well, I wasn't sure if she HAD TO grab the e brake or not, that's all.

Looks like I'm gonna have to practice this a lot more!
Thanks for the help so far guys.

it depends on the corner. you dont have to grab the ebrake, but it helps some people keep the rear end from coming around too much.

i refer people to https://vimeo.com/20050770. it has a good view of the driver's inputs.

should clear up alot if not all confusion, and its kind of hard to explain over a key board.

[Biggamehit]

ebrake is not a bad thing... it's a technique just like all the others. I to thought using it was seen as lower skill and never relied on it until my sessions with Suenaga San of team orange the same instructor/mentor of Sumika in the video above. I have glanced at this thread and some people seem to think it is though. using the ebrake to drag ass yea.. not good ... but it's a vital tool and a car without a good ebrake is missing a vital correction/initiation tool. Also some of you are explaining how to perform shift lock basically with downshifting mid drift and letting the revs drop.. the downshift should be done within the right range of rpms with enough seat time man it will become second nature..... you don't want to shiftlock unless you are in rain or snow and even still it jolts the hell out of your driveline lol.

[LayNLow]

Wow, this thread just died completely! I guess everyone knows how to drift now! LOL.

Anyway, quick question, I've tried to upshift mid-drift multiple times already and failed horribly (2nd gear to 3rd gear). And whenever I try to do so, I straighten out. EVEN if I try to upshift fast as hell, still no luck. How do people upshift mid-drift while keeping the same amount of angle (not losing drift)? Flat foot shifting?

Also, I've seen videos of people at Ebisu/Nikko and when they initiate, they initiate in third, then downshift into second. Same question basically.... how do they keep the drift even when they are off the throttle for solid amount of time? I'm guessing lots of angle on initiation or something like that, but if someone can enlighten me, that would be cool!

Here's a vid at Nikko just to explain what the hell I'm talking about. Skip to 1:46 to see the initation.
VIDEO

I mean, it seems simple enough. Initiate in third, then downshift mid-drift. But, for some reason whenever I try to do some shit like this, I straighten out. Is it because I'm not throwing enough angle into it?

So, I asked two questions:
1. How do you upshift mid-drift without losing drift?
2. How do you downshift mid-drift without losing drift?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks dudes.

1: If you dont have a lot of power then you will need to upshift on transitions. Just think ahead of time so you are prepared for it.
2: Once the car is sideways, it will stay that way unless you run out of momentumn/speed. So like someone else said, you can just clutch in put it in second and clutch out, or rev up and clutch out. Whatever is best for that certian corner.

[Grenade180sx]

you can down shift mid drift while braking, as stated above, momentum is the key as far as upshifting it depends on the corner, but the faster the shift the better as to gain your speed back.

i use the ebrake often and works well for adjusting my line and angle. people who say its less skill are clearly mistaken and havent driven at higher levels of competition or speed, the ebrake is for running tandem with cars that are slower then you when following.

[Thorough Concepts, LLC]

you can down shift mid drift while braking, as stated above, momentum is the key as far as upshifting it depends on the corner, but the faster the shift the better as to gain your speed back.

i use the ebrake often and works well for adjusting my line and angle. people who say its less skill are clearly mistaken and havent driven at higher levels of competition or speed, the ebrake is for running tandem with cars that are slower then you when following.

+1 watch the in-car vids of D1GP or D1SL and see how much they utilize that ebrake. Once someone knows how to use ebrake well enough they can pretty much place a car wherever they want to.

[240dream]

any tips on linking corners? i can slide a corner but when i go to transition to the next curve it seems like my car whips out to hard and i spin out???

[Grenade180sx]

any tips on linking corners? i can slide a corner but when i go to transition to the next curve it seems like my car whips out to hard and i spin out???


depending on the actually distance to transition on the next corner, i usually lift throttle to get the car to rotate, that way you dont have the "snap effect" as harsh. although with more experience you'll be able to transition harder and stay on throttle for the most part.

so cliff notes

Lift before transitioning
throttle on once car has rotated into the direction you want to go.

[pacotaco345]

depending on the actually distance to transition on the next corner, i usually lift throttle to get the car to rotate, that way you dont have the "snap effect" as harsh. although with more experience you'll be able to transition harder and stay on throttle for the most part.

so cliff notes

Lift before transitioning
throttle on once car has rotated into the direction you want to go.

I always had people tell me this when I asked advice to transition but it just made the problem worse. When I let off the gas the rear end would grip and throw me the other way. I just learned to stay on the gas and feed the wheels a lil more lock to send it the other way.

[!Zar!]

Lifting a little is different from lifting completely.

[240dream]

Lifting a little is different from lifting completely.

So just lift little wait till I rotate and get in it again? I know tire psi plays some part in spinning out I think im at 50psi with 270hp should I drop it down?

[!Zar!]

A small/moderate lift works. Though it really depends on the corner.

If you have that much power you don't really need to be running such high pressure. Plus it kills your tires faster.

[imput1234]

1. How do you upshift mid-drift without losing drift?

Try to be as smooth as possible.

When you let go of the throttle and come back in modulate it accordingly to keep the slide going.
You can also modulate the clutch or clutch-kick to help. But the key is being as smooth as possible, if your too jerky you will straighten out or spin.


2. How do you downshift mid-drift without losing drift?[/I][/B]
Any help is appreciated! Thanks dudes.

E-brake or foot brake to slow down, when your in the right rpm range, clutch in and clutch out. Then power over, keep it smooth, the downshift will automatically give you a lot of angle, on top of the angle you gained from slowing down, be ready for that.

Here is a video of me driving (not a 240) but I downshift after the big sweeper from 3nd to 2nd.

7g4XDw1CGLo


and in one of the runs near the end I upshift again to 3rd.

[iamtheyi]

I need some insight into driving at Balcony at Willow Springs. Is the "new" course possible with a stock KA? I've always felt that going around the shack would be impossible because of the lack of power from the KA.

The layout with just the circle before was retarded enough having to clutch kick every two seconds lol.

[xBtony]

I need some insight into driving at Balcony at Willow Springs. Is the "new" course possible with a stock KA? I've always felt that going around the shack would be impossible because of the lack of power from the KA.

The layout with just the circle before was retarded enough having to clutch kick every two seconds lol.

Speed. Lol. Enter in 3rd carry as much speed as you can through the first turn and throw it into second on the first transition, ran it last weekend with a stock dual cam and not too many clutch kicks. Thats the way I've been able to get it done at least. Before I used to enter in 2nd and you can still run the whole course but many clutch kicks are needed.

[iamtheyi]

Speed. Lol. Enter in 3rd carry as much speed as you can through the first turn and throw it into second on the first transition, ran it last weekend with a stock dual cam and not too many clutch kicks. Thats the way I've been able to get it done at least. Before I used to enter in 2nd and you can still run the whole course but many clutch kicks are needed.

What size tires and wheels do you run?

[xBtony]

I was driving my buddies car he's got 17x8 with 205/40s, 0 rear camber.

[dreamin240sx]

Drift nirvana drifting summit point WV - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDmO1blW2LU&feature=youtu.be)

this is me at summit point wv. first time on the track with my new setup. I went off the track once lol but hey it happens also this is my first drift practice of 2012. enjoy

[Grenade180sx]

What size tires and wheels do you run?


the main thing to remember when running a stock KA or likewise engine. is keep your angle shallow to help keep the speed up, big angle with low power cars results in spins and losing your drift altogether usually.

[whyteboi]

Drift nirvana drifting summit point WV - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDmO1blW2LU&feature=youtu.be)

this is me at summit point wv. first time on the track with my new setup. I went off the track once lol but hey it happens also this is my first drift practice of 2012. enjoy

Looks good Nick.

[iamtheyi]

I guess I'll just have to do whatever I can. Full throttle all the time.

No lifting as always I'm guessing?

[tauntdevil]

I need some insight into driving at Balcony at Willow Springs. Is the "new" course possible with a stock KA? I've always felt that going around the shack would be impossible because of the lack of power from the KA.

The layout with just the circle before was retarded enough having to clutch kick every two seconds lol.
Definitely possible with a KA. Clutch kick is how most people do it especially the corolla group. I run 225/50R17 all around and sometimes 245 instead though 245 makes it difficult, as long as you are full throttle (which is what you need to do for KA almost all the time) you should be alright.
After a few runs, you will most likely get a feel of what to do in order to keep the wheels going.

[imput1234]

I guess I'll just have to do whatever I can. Full throttle all the time.

No lifting as always I'm guessing?

Lifting fully scrubs a shit ton of speed, never fully lift.

[StigMeister]

so with a stock KA you wanna go WOT (never fully lift) and keep a shallow angle?
what about a stock SR? I would spin out a lot when I first got my stock SR, also had my fair share of understeer :(

[vibe240]

with my stock sr im full trottle most of the time while lifting a little when necessary

[vibe240]

(put in hd )
Lo-XHGRQFHo

last ''track'' day of 2012 . track was wet and clutch was dying . was praticing getting close to the wall . was pretty fun .

[KA240SX808]

Shit my phone, Glove box?
Damn I'm strapped in.
Fuck it I'll just sit on it.
lmao


Looks like a pretty fun Skid pad.
Any steering mods?

Also sorry but I have to throw this in there. Welded VLSD?

[KA240SX808]

so with a stock KA you wanna go WOT (never fully lift) and keep a shallow angle?


That's the "Secret" of keeping a KA sideways. Come in Fast, Stay WOT, and keep a Shallow angle.

[vibe240]

Shit my phone, Glove box?
Damn I'm strapped in.
Fuck it I'll just sit on it.
lmao


Looks like a pretty fun Skid pad.
Any steering mods?

Also sorry but I have to throw this in there. Welded VLSD?


no steering mod except tein tie rod spacer , getting the knuckles modified next season

and yeah you can weld a vlsd and its really great ! My mecanic did it so im not exactly sure how but I think he opened everything and welded the spider gear inside the diff .

[240dream]

no steering mod except tein tie rod spacer , getting the knuckles modified next season

and yeah you can weld a vlsd and its really great ! My mecanic did it so im not exactly sure how but I think he opened everything and welded the spider gear inside the diff .

instead of welding you could have shimmed it to make it a 2 way(welded diff alays locked) but speaking of knuckles is anyone running the pmb pro ones?

[cantdrift11]

Question for you guys! So I'm running a gutted, cage sxe10, basically stock 2jge. About 200hp to the wheel and gutted weighing about 3000. Still heavy... I run 225's all around. With our cars you can't get much aggressive offsets to push the wheel base further out. Trying to fit some aggressive wheels and not down with reverse raking :/
Would it be wrong to go wider like 235's while keeping 225's in the rear. It would just allow me to keep my 17's up front more aggressive and not destroying my fiber glass fenders at full lock. 225/40/17 rarely exist so 235/49/17 maybe.....?

[bataangpinoy]

you mean track, not wheelbase.

wheelbase refers to length from wheel to wheel (front to rear).

[crzsteveo]

KAs are the best to learn IMO. Ive personally been watching guys with more power than they can handle/drive with at summit point.

I love my KA. Pretty much what everyone is saying is good. Just enter in a corner with some speed, then drop it into second or whatever kind of turn it might be. If your gonna drift in 3rd gear, what i do is yank the ebrake and get the rpms up high then let the clutch out and itll continue to slide. key thing is to never let off the throttle.

this vid i did some 3rd gear drifting. its hard.

3rd gear drifting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjCbmgEsJiQ&feature=plcp)

[KA240SX808]

Looks like you could def use some more Front Grip, Tire wise atleast.
Also with a course like that and having a KA, all my initiations would be clutch kick feints.
For the sole purpose of keeping as much momentum as possible, especially with those 3rd gear entries.

[iamtheyi]

I finished balcony this weekend. Going around the shack with a KA is retarded. 0 power. Ultimate frustration. I'll put up videos for pointers if I can do that somehow. No in car though. No gopro or anything. Filmed from outside.

[iamtheyi]

AmhgoDuR5ws

So here's small edit I pulled from the track event showing my most frustrating part of the entire event. The stupid green shack I can't get around because of lack of power. It's retarded.

Forgive the shittiest video quality in the world. My friend's camera is not what you would call modern technology.

Any pointers?

These were the best two runs around that thing. Every thing else my car just kind of stops.

[tauntdevil]

So here's small edit I pulled from the track event showing my most frustrating part of the entire event. The stupid green shack I can't get around because of lack of power. It's retarded.

Forgive the shittiest video quality in the world. My friend's camera is not what you would call modern technology.

Any pointers?

These were the best two runs around that thing. Every thing else my car just kind of stops.
What gear would you be in once you transitioned for the shack? Sounds like you needed to downshift or setup the turn before hand to let you leave it in higher rpms so you have enough power to get somewhat through the turn.

Also, your friends camera makes the video look like an old 2005 ish video or like the old Drift101 videos. haha

[KA240SX808]

What's your setup?
I'm assuming that your in 2nd at the time of leaving the shack?
If you haven't already up your Rear Tire pressure to at least 55. That's normally what I run. Sometimes I step into 60psi but rarely do.
Sounds like a few clutch kicks could help keep that going.
You may need to come in a little more wide and shallow to keep it going though. But I know your not gonna keep that sweep coming from the shack in one shake especially from that low a speed in a KA.
So you can either come out the shack shallow and hold it as long as you can or come in a make like your gonna do a complete circle around the shack but switch to a right real quick and then kick it back out left.

Now idk the course nor have a driven on it. Just giving insight from what your video shows.

[Aroddalobster]

it just sounds to my noob ears like you really need to downshift into 1st somewhere around the transition.

[KA240SX808]

although downshifting to first may work. I vote against that for the sake of the first gear Synchro. Our trans don't take first gear downshifts very well. At least for what I've exp. and seen.

[iamtheyi]

What gear would you be in once you transitioned for the shack? Sounds like you needed to downshift or setup the turn before hand to let you leave it in higher rpms so you have enough power to get somewhat through the turn.

Also, your friends camera makes the video look like an old 2005 ish video or like the old Drift101 videos. haha

I'm in second gear. I enter third, downshift to second on the first transition. No downshift again. I really don't want to downshift to first. That sounds retarded lol.

I know. Friends camera sucks something terrible when I look at the footage. Didn't realize it was this bad. Probably going to pick up something else soon during the Christmas season. Should've gotten one on Black Friday but meh.

[vibe240]

downshifting into 1st ? not unless you have a limitless supply of transmission

drifting in 3rd gear in a ka is definitly possible , downshift in second then clutch kick till your leg cant do it anymore.

[iamtheyi]

I was also running 70psi in the rear

[KA240SX808]

What size in the Rear?

[iamtheyi]

Running 215/45/17 all around

[vibe240]

with my ka I was running about 45-60 psi depending on the tire size and course. With my sr , 32-45psi with 205-245 r17

[KA240SX808]

You should have no problem with a few clutch kicks if your running 215's @ 70psi.
I did fine on 225's @ 50psi.
Granted not on that track but tight radius turns in 2nd were no problem.

[jtaylor]

If you watch videos or read of drifters with all skill levels, it's all preference about set up. Youtube the drift king. He will have a Toyota 86 and will walk you through techniques. A huge advantage will be the VLSD. A few if you can spare the money, so one can always be getting rebuilt and one on standby and the other getting the life sucked from it. If drifting on the weekends your rear diff will last about 6 months give or take. Everyday about a month. Buy good tires for the front and get some used tires for the rear and go practice. Then when your skills start improving then worry about sway bars, coilovers, strut bars, camber, toe, and so on. Till then just get the basics down.

[whyteboi]

Why do people still mess with VLSD? If you can't afford an actual diff why not just weld yours for close to nothing and then know its locked when you need it, since it's locked all the time.

[h2v7]

^ yea i know at midvale you need like a nice 2way nismo or welded only

[jtaylor]

Using the VLSD is good to try on since they are abundant and pretty good when rebuilt. The Nismo ones are becoming more rare, just the name alone is why the get bought.

[iamtheyi]

Mine is welded... The Drift Bible is incredibly retarded in teaching someone the basics of drifting. He's using footwork and steering that is beyond comprehension to the average driver.

VLSD isn't great for drifting. Doesn't lock hard enough for stock KA.

[jtaylor]

Yeah the drift bible was pretty lame but did have a few good pointers. I dont think the vsld is to bad. just need a few upgrades for the motor and you should be able to break traction.

[zenki 95]

Yeah the drift bible was pretty lame but did have a few good pointers. I dont think the vsld is to bad. just need a few upgrades for the motor and you should be able to break traction.

Give or take the videos in general, they are informational and you have to see what they are doing. What happens if you continue drifting.... In time you will buy better parts to fit comfort and goals you will require to advance in skill. On the welded diff, I know they are fairly easy to find open for welding. I have one in my s14 and another going into my vert soon. If done right, (I'm a certified welder) they are awesome 100% Lock. I don't worry about the "bomb in my axle" because mine is solid. If all fails I will throw everything away since I can't disassemble it and i completely fused everything for reassurance in reference to just welding the corners. I will post pics if needed.
Love this thread btw

Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Tapatalk 2

[Grenade180sx]

For those with VLSD , run a heavy weight gear oil such as 85-140 most VLSD lock up better with them.

i ran Irwindale course(big bank) with a Vlsd and did just fine.

[tauntdevil]

I'm in second gear. I enter third, downshift to second on the first transition. No downshift again. I really don't want to downshift to first. That sounds retarded lol.

I know. Friends camera sucks something terrible when I look at the footage. Didn't realize it was this bad. Probably going to pick up something else soon during the Christmas season. Should've gotten one on Black Friday but meh.
I wouldnt recommend downshifting into first. Second is normally where I stay. I normally run 40-50psi in my tires but I also use 205-245 wide tires depending on the track. When you transition for the shed, try clutch kicking it through the transition. That should be able to bring your RPMs up and keep the wheels spinning through that corner. Try it next time you are out. The weight shift should make the wheels spin a little easier and with teh clutch kick, will allow them to slide out more through the drift.

Camera look is interesting. I would keep it.

Mine is welded... The Drift Bible is incredibly retarded in teaching someone the basics of drifting. He's using footwork and steering that is beyond comprehension to the average driver.

VLSD isn't great for drifting. Doesn't lock hard enough for stock KA.
The drift bible does do the basics but it also shows a car with 200+ power. They have SR's in their S series cars so they have more power than our 120ish (if lucky) whp KA cars.

[TTnickdizzle]

For those with VLSD , run a heavy weight gear oil such as 85-140 most VLSD lock up better with them.

i ran Irwindale course(big bank) with a Vlsd and did just fine.


Riley i dont think the weight of the oil has anything to do with the VLSD locking up. the VSLD locks up by a viscous silicone oil which is sealed inside the diff itself. that silicone fluid is completely seperate from the 75w 90 or whatever is inside the diff housing. Once the silicone fluid is shot the whole diff is shot. i havent found anyone that replaces the silicone fluid as i believe its an unservicable part.

Hey are you still over a adams? almost finished working out all the issues in the Z and should be out there soon. see you there.

-Nick

[Grenade180sx]

Riley i dont think the weight of the oil has anything to do with the VLSD locking up. the VSLD locks up by a viscous silicone oil which is sealed inside the diff itself. that silicone fluid is completely seperate from the 75w 90 or whatever is inside the diff housing. Once the silicone fluid is shot the whole diff is shot. i havent found anyone that replaces the silicone fluid as i believe its an unservicable part.

Hey are you still over a adams? almost finished working out all the issues in the Z and should be out there soon. see you there.

-Nick

good to know nick, i still go over there occasionally, i now work over at Falken tire, just let me know when your going again dude and ill swing by!

[Chase_Lovett]

pull the e brake and powover!

[iamtheyi]

pull the e brake and powover!

you are so fucking original. :barf:

[bc.]

For those with VLSD , run a heavy weight gear oil such as 85-140 most VLSD lock up better with them.

i ran Irwindale course(big bank) with a Vlsd and did just fine.
If you really want to refresh a worn VLSD, shim it. I shimmed mine with some factory shims almost as tight as it could go and still being able to assemble it, I locks almost like a 2-way but it is much more drivable than a welded on the street.

This diff will not last forever though, it is not designed to be this tight, but neither will any VLSD...

[Chase_Lovett]

you are so fucking original. :barf: haha someone had to say it.:stupid:

[eDmSiL80]

Hey iamtheyi I met you at the 711 in brea lol. Pretty cool you drift. As for that vid you just have to clutch kick a bit more after transition. Try to keep the revs and wheel speed up and possibly a bit shallower angle. Hmu next time u slide, ill be good once I get my s13.

[vibe240]

So I sold my s14 for a jdm ae86 ... cant wait to see the differance between the 2 cars on the track . I'm putting my sr in the AE .

[KA240SX808]

SR86 is mad fun. Stock SR with a GTS 4.3 Clutch Rear End is ridiculous.

[jasoncanseeoh]

FOR THOSE WITH A VERTICAL (Hydro) EBRAKE:

Do any of you guys have issues like me getting used to the setup?
I have a vertical installed and I'm so used to pulling my stock ebrake and it's horizontal position, my first instinct is to pull down there. We had a few sessions a while ago and whenever I had to pull the ebrake mid-drift, I automatically reached down there opposed to reaching for my hydro.

I understand it may just take some getting used to and whatnot, but it just feels so different compared to the stock one. Pulling back instead of pulling up is just odd and has such a different feel. I know I can just buy a horizontal one, etc. But, I already have this one welded in. I'm doing my best to get used to it, although I just wanted other's opinions.

So for those with a vertical, what did you do to get used to the setup? Was it weird for you at first too?

Any input is appreciated.

[240dream]

Hows this alignment look? this is for my s14 drift car ka-t 300hp with 18x10 225 40 all around
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/BOBBY8960/2013-02-01_20-26-14_939_zps377c8a66.jpg

[iamtheyi]

besides the camber up front almost being a full degree off it's alright.

[di-devol]

^Yea, go back and tell them to fix it, and that would be toe out in the rear as well?