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View Full Version : 91 s13 sutter/hesitation/bog after shifting


bassboy3313
12-11-2009, 06:40 PM
I have a hesitation/stutter while getting back on the accelerator after shifting. I will shift from 1st to 2nd it will bog/stutter than kick back in. shift from 2nd to 3rd, same thing. once i get into 4th and 5th it stops. what could cause this?

filluptieu
12-11-2009, 07:40 PM
Shi-T my sr20det redtop does the same thing.... i cant figure it out. It use to be worst but i clean the MAFS and that really helped out but I can still feel it.

bassboy3313
12-11-2009, 09:17 PM
someone told me a bad TPS might have something to do with it. :/

filluptieu
12-12-2009, 10:59 AM
weird because i just check mine on a volt meter and it was fine.

bassboy3313
12-13-2009, 01:20 PM
hhmmm. idk then. i havent checked mine yet.

96Turbo
12-13-2009, 01:39 PM
do u have a recirculated or atmospheric blow off valve? Although my SR runs fine with an atmospheric, some people claim that the rich condition for a second after shifting causes some hesitation...

DJDANGER24
12-13-2009, 01:51 PM
haha ive had this bug for about 3 years now on my RB25. only happens under fast shifting. Feels like a loss of power/bog, i let off the gas and then press it again and its back to normal. i replaced my TPS & throttle body as well, with one that worked perfect on a friends RB25 and still the same problem. did the same with and without a recirculated BOV. cleaned the maf, changed the air filter, fuel filter, you name it. still have that same problem. im just going to take it to a tuner and have them figure it out. good luck, and post up if you figure something out.

SilviaAura
12-13-2009, 02:20 PM
might just be the maf its self or the connector to it...I had this prob for a short time on my sr till i found out that my maf pigtail/connector was bad...my friend had the same problem on his ka and he replaced the maf and it was fine...

bassboy3313
12-13-2009, 03:19 PM
im runnning a rebuilt ka24de. im just gonna wait till spring to start working on it. ill prolly be doing TPS and MAF and see if that helps.

S117A47
12-13-2009, 04:30 PM
Im thinkin something wrong with the fuel/air mix... Are the injectors clean and whatnot?

slothonaleash
12-13-2009, 04:51 PM
Check your timing; should be at 20 degrees BTDC, maybe a couple of degrees advanced if you're into that kind of thing.

My car likes to do this in the winter time for some reason as well; I had the timing advanced for the summer, so I bumped it back to 20 degrees and it's running fine now.

Jonathan Rivera
12-13-2009, 05:23 PM
see if all your intercooler pipes are snug ...

MunsonAuto
12-13-2009, 05:28 PM
im runnning a rebuilt ka24de. im just gonna wait till spring to start working on it. ill prolly be doing TPS and MAF and see if that helps.

see if all your intercooler pipes are snug ...
Fail....


Do as planned, check TPS, maf, other air/fuel related areas...eventually you'll find it.

bassboy3313
12-14-2009, 09:09 AM
Fail....


Do as planned, check TPS, maf, other air/fuel related areas...eventually you'll find it.

thanks to all who have replied. i will what is said above and the timing as well. i will update as i go on.

clark
12-14-2009, 09:19 AM
just want to chime in

i have an SR20. i was dicking with atmospheric bov and HKS EIDS and i got these same exact problems. i couldn't get it tuned nicely ( i have a stock ECU by the way) so i figured F it and just went back to recirc.

i have a feeling it's tied to a vacuum leak on your end.

check your injector seals, make sure they're not sucking air. people usually will check ALL their vacum connections and still have vacuum leak symptoms and a few guys on here have had that injector seal problem.

filluptieu
12-14-2009, 10:45 AM
do a ECU diagnostic i recieved code 13 and code 43 TPS and ECT

bassboy3313
12-14-2009, 08:35 PM
oh nice. ill try that.

redline racer510
12-15-2009, 11:23 AM
Sounds to me like you got a vacuum leak. Follow these steps:

1. Warm up engine to operating temperature. (take it around the block a couple time)
2.Go buy your self some carb/throttle body cleaner
3. While the engine is running spray carb/throttle body cleaner around intake manifold/vacuum lines
4. If idle rises or if you hear any fluxuation you've got a vacuum leak and use the spray to try and pinpoit the leak and repair. Keep doing this until the idle is unaffected by the carb/throttle body cleaner.

Dream240
12-15-2009, 04:49 PM
Sounds to me like you got a vacuum leak. Follow these steps:

1. Warm up engine to operating temperature. (take it around the block a couple time)
2.Go buy your self some carb/throttle body cleaner
3. While the engine is running spray carb/throttle body cleaner around intake manifold/vacuum lines
4. If idle rises or if you hear any fluxuation you've got a vacuum leak and use the spray to try and pinpoit the leak and repair. Keep doing this until the idle is unaffected by the carb/throttle body cleaner.

uh....

He's not having problems with the idle genius. It's his acceleration from gear to gear. A vaccuum problem is only going to present itself at idle,

The problem is either going to be bad air flow, poor fuel flow, or improper spark. Here's what you need to check before you spend any money.

1. Check for engine trouble codes.
2. Check all your main ground points for your engine bay wiring harnesses. Look for looseness and corrosion.
3. Check your spark plugs, wires, and air filter for excessive wear.
4. Check the resistance on your fuel injectors, if you've got one out of spec, replace.
5. Check your ignition timing. 20 deg. BTDC
6. Does this happen when your fuel tank is completely full AND 1/4 full? Sometimes a failing fuel pump will bog under load.

I actually had this same problem once, turned out to be faulty spark plug wires. Looked fine on the outside, but were coming apart on the inside. While it may not be your problem, if you can get another set of plug wires, swap them to see if it goes away.

Good luck.