EGR Removal, harness resistors

[stunnaben]

All my egr stuff is removed from my car and i had to replace my engine harness and now i need to solder in resistors.... All my egr stuff is removed... I need to know what resistors to solder in and where.... Who can help me?

[stunnaben]

bump ttt fellas i need to figure this out :/

[importdude]

do it anywhere before the sensor
cut and put in resisitor

[stunnaben]

What resisters do i need and where do they go?

[M11's]

are you putting in resisters cause your getting check engine light?

[stunnaben]

yessir ^ that is correct

[stunnaben]

still no answer........

[fcdrifter20]

i got the same question. i just need to kno wut restance risistor pack to buy

[orion::S14]

Damn, people...have you ever heard of Google? Or the search function here? This has been posted here, Freshalloy, NICO, 240SXforums, SR20forums, etc...and probably multiple times on each forum.

Take 5 minutes and search, or a quick look at the FSM (it lists a range of acceptable values for the sensor).

Anyway, here's the info:

100K ohm (1/4 watt) resistor

Just cut the EGR temp sensor wires, and splice them back together with the resistor inline.

...and since I have to assume that you'll ask where the temp sensor is...look between the #2 and #3 intake runners.

- Brian

[s13pignose]

If you get the chance, post what your end result is. I had egr temp sensor code, and I never even touched the egr. So I tried resistor trick, buy unplugging the harness connectors, and bending resistor into the shape of a staple and inserting it into the ecu side of the harness. It worked for my knock sensor code though?? Good luck

[Driven08]

My car also has that problem as well. Has anyone actually found a solution without having to put in a resistor?

[orion::S14]

My car also has that problem as well. Has anyone actually found a solution without having to put in a resistor?

There isn't any other solution, except maybe to have a working EGR system...???

The ECU looks for EGR flow under certain conditions (part throttle cruising, mainly). When the EGR is open, the intake air is significantly hotter than normal, and the temp sensor picks up on this. If the ECU doesn't see the resistance it wants from the EGR temp sensor when the EGR should be open, you get a CEL.

So you either have a working EGR system, or put in a resistor...that way, if the ECU checks to see if the EGR seems functional, it sees resistance in a specified range from the temp sensor...and it's happy, and you get no codes thrown.

- Brian

[s13pignose]

Let me get this right..if I get the cel even with the resistor, than that means my egr was working and I probably should have never gotten the code in the first place. I mean with my fingers underneath I've felt the diaphragm lift before. I wouldn't put it pass the car to give false signals..I've gotten IACV code before that went away on its own. Maybe I should try plugging the harness connectors back together since I don't have a resistor in to begin with..nothing to lose lol

[orion::S14]

Depends on the code...you can also get a CEL for the solenoid.

- Brian

[s13pignose]

Code 35 which is the temp sensor as far as I know when I got the list of codes on your site

[stunnaben]

I don't have the purge solenoids or any of that stuff on my intake manifold.... it's a cluster fuck.... I know i need resistors. The only thing i have left from the egr stuff is the temp sensor. None of the other stuff is there, none of it... I have about 5 OBD2 harness plugs that seriously go to nothing, the stuff just isn't there. A lot of the vac lines on the intake manifold are gone and removed and I have no clue what to do with all these extra plugs.....

[stunnaben]

Alright so now to make my point a little more clear, here is a schematic of the emmisions shit and vaccum routing. I have an obd2 intake manifold and it's in an obd2 car. Go figure right. Alright here is the picture

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/EMOtionsoverrun/vaccumdiagram.jpg

So I have all of this stuff removed, as in it is no longer on the car....

EGR valve
EGRC-BRT Vavle
EGT and canister solenoid valve
SCV control solenoid valve
swirl control valve
solenoid valve bracket

The only thing i have listen their is the IACV-AAC valve and that is to adjust the idle. All the vac lines have been disconnected and are no longer there.


The car came like this and the car throws like 5 or 6 check engine lights.... I can't remember which ones they were but I'll get them later today and post up. I'm trying to get rid of these check engine lights and get my car running CORRECTLY.....

[s13pignose]

My guess one might be code 35 egr temp sensor, at least tha'ts one I have even with all the egr stuff still there

[stunnaben]

I don't have that code at all... i still ahve the temp sensor.

[bfellini]

If you're getting code 105, check FSM for Egr Solenoid pinouts and you need to either put the solenoid back in, or wire in the coil (85 & 86) of a relay. Then the 100k resistor for the Egr Temp sensor, problem solved.

[Matej]

As for me, I took the check engine light bulb out, haha.