More KA24E woes

[rocksteady_racer]

Ok so I rewired the MAF and I replaced the tps. Still having the same problem. here's the symptoms: Running too rich - up to 3000 it's rough but once you pass 4k it's definately running way too rich cause it smokes gas out (thick black smoke). But it does hit 5000 rpm now just hard to get there. So that's why I figure I can rule out the MAF. The only thing I can think of is that the Fuel Pressure Regulator blew out from the Walbro 255. but everyone usually says that doesn't cause a problem normally or maybe an intake manifold leak or something ridiculous. I'm going to try putting my aeromotive fpr (yes I'm not stupid it has a pressure gauge and I know how to adjust it) and see if that fixes it but if it doesn't any other advice? But in my head I don't see that being logical if the pressure is too much then shouldn't the injectors adapt for it a little bit? Also I checked the compression on the block and it looks fine to me. So the only thing I could think is like a vaccum leak or fpr right? thanks in advance. I got a greddy e-manage ultimate I can use to trick the ecu but I don't think that's going to help me. I think it's a physical problem but these cars always confuse with simple electrical insanity.

[rocksteady_racer]

Nobody has any other suggestions? I'm losing my mind with this car. It makes no sense to me LoL.

[greddyguy]

what size injectors are you running?

[nieko]

try changing your coolant temp sensor.

it takes like 5 minutes, and is pretty damn cheap. :)

[rocksteady_racer]

I just swapped the coolant temp sensor like 5000 miles ago not even. I even used a nissan one. Maybe the wiring to it is bad? I guess I should go through and check my entire harness with a multimeter or something. I'm running stock injectors right now thus my confusion of how it can run so rich LoL. I don't see how the wiring harness could make a difference but I rewired my maf and my tps sensor and still no luck in fixing my problem. I was just wondering if anyone else has had similiar problems because every mechanic I go to is like I have no idea LoL. I'm about to buy another redtop sr20 and drop it in and worry about it after building up the ka then seeing if the problems are gone after that LoL. But I would like a running car in the mean time. I have 2 240's. My tranny blew in my red 91 and this one just seems to be running mad rich so I figure this should be alot easier to fix LoL. And it's not running rich in one cylinder it's runnning rich across the whole board cause I just swapped my spark plugs and they were black and I get maybe 6 mpg. Could it be something stupid like the distributor is going bad? Or maybe.... I just got a new ignition coil not too long ago from advance auto so maybe that's causing all of this, like it broke already cause it's 120$ piece of junk LoL? Or maybe just direct wiring it straight thru might fix it (with the relay to the battery thing)?

[rocksteady_racer]

I unplugged my maf and my car stalled so that ruled that out LoL. But I still can't figure it out why the motor is running like that. I just checked every connector and wiggled every vacuum hose and still nothing seems to change the engine problems.

[Killa_D]

i had the same problem with my de changed the injectors now runs like a champ.

[rocksteady_racer]

I was thinking about doing that but that's going to suck cause I'm going to have to install the fpr and then my Deatschwerks 550cc's then tune it back to stock with my e-manage ultimate :-/ I'm poor now and that's all I got for my turbo install lol. And I don't think it's that because on my 91 240 I found a broken injector in seconds just by checking spark plug wires and seeing which cylinder doesn't fire right (for all of them). So this one is a little more confusing.

[rocksteady_racer]

Ok so it wasn't the coolant temp sensor. Does anyone know where I can find the sensor electrical specifications so I can check all of them with my multi meter? In particular I want to check my MAF sensor and my ignition coil the most because I think it's one of those two and the coolant temp sensor wiring. Is there any way to check the injectors with a multimeter too? Any help would be greatly appreciated

[rocksteady_racer]

So if anybody could tell me where to find that data and I check all of those and it's not any of them I'm pretty sure I need the head rebuilt because it's making a horrific tapping sound.

[rocksteady_racer]

I'm going to take the valve cover again to take a look. I tried pulling the ecu to check the codes and it came back with 55 (no errors) on the check. I then unplugged the MAF to see if that changed anything and it didn't so I figured maybe the ecu is screwed up and that's the whole problem. I'm going to take the valve cover off and take a look to see if anything is broken. IIt's just NA not boosted. Also I unplugged the tps sensor and it didn't change anything. But the tps sensor is the same as before and it's brand new so I'm pretty sure it's either an ecu problem or head problem. It ran the same with it unplugged so that could be the problem but it's new and it had the same problem with the old one so that's why I think it's my other two conclusions. My mechanic friend also said the tapping might be from one of the injectors so I haven't ruled that out yet but I don't know how to check them with my multimeter.

[rocksteady_racer]

I just drove it and it seems a little better now since i played with a bunch of stuff. But now it seems to be stutter stepping randomly. Could it be a crank shaft sensor or something or the head maybe? It still won't rev past 5500 for some reason and it struggles up to it. It can't be a vehicle speed sensor doing this right?

[rocksteady_racer]

I fixed one of the injectors - it was reading 0 ohms. So I put the new one and now the motor is running alot better. However, it won't rev past 5500 rpms. Is that a vehicle speed sensor on the tranny or something? Or an ecu problem?

[aziankingz]

were you able to rev pass 5500 rpms in the past? I have trouble getting passed it too..seems like fuel cuts off at that point..i think its the stock rev limit

[Zilviasr20]

Im having the same problem. Ive changed my spark plugs and wires, new injector harness( this helped a lot) now im going to change my third injecor since only my third spark plug is coming out carbon fouled.

[Zilviasr20]

changed my injector turns it out i had a crack injector also. Good thing i bought a spare. u should try and change ur other injectors im pretty sure thats ur problem.

[rocksteady_racer]

I checked the new injector I g0t and the ohms on it were 8K. So I assume that's what stock is supposed to be since the one i replaced was reading 0. I'm going to check the rest tomorrow. I'm also having a bouncing idle problem when I start so I don't know if that's a IAA problem or another injector playing games. But I'll keep you guys informed when I actually get it fixed. it's been running really hot too which I think is a head problem so that might be another thing I need to worry about but I hope it's just another injector. But the standard spark plug test didn't help last time so I'm going to go through and check with my multimeter.

[rocksteady_racer]

II've done everything but install my new fuel pressure regulator and finish checking all of my injectors. But I'm pretty sure I figured it out what it is. I was just wondering if anybody could back up my hypothesis. So anyway, when I race the engine a little when it's sitting still (flushing coolant), there are these tiny black specs that come out of the exhaust. Could that mean the cat collapsed and that's been my problem all along? Thanks in advance for any help.

[Pr0jectTopher]

hang in there buddy, everything will be alright! lol u could be like me.. with no 240 still looking to buy =]

[rocksteady_racer]

That's funny because my 3rd S13 240 came from baltimore LoL. Anybody have any other advice? I'm just going to swap the cat out now and I'll tell you if that fixed it LoL

[rocksteady_racer]

It wasn't the cat. And I swapped out the rotor head on the distributor. Anybody have any other ideas? Would the IACV do this? Is there any way to clean it so I don't have to spend an arm and a leg replacing it? Or could this be one of the other emissions controls causing this? O and one more symptom. When I start it up it goes down to 600 idle then bounces up to 900 then slowly rises to 1200. Does that help anyone figure it out?

[rocksteady_racer]

Ok I finally really figured out the problem. Stupidest thing ever. I don't know why nobody told me this a long time ago LoL. The tps sensor is for an automatic and not a manual. I was checking it with a multimeter and it was giving me funny readings (as in reversed polarity after the car was on for 3 minutes). So then I checked the advanced auto site and noticed the 30$ tps sensor is for an auto and the 72$ is for the manual. I don't know why the dude at advanced auto didn't tell me there were two different versions. That would've helped alot along time ago LoL.

[Mafia 6]

i hear ya,my single slammer playing all types of games on me right now

saving for a swap,but until then i gotta figure out why my idle is all bounce,and why my exhaust smells so bad (probably running rich):ugh:
who knows

glad you got it fixed tho

[rocksteady_racer]

It's not fixed. I tuned the new manual TPS sensor and checked it with my multimeter. Still ran rich. Then I was remembered I installed a Walbro 255 so I installed my Aeromotive FPR to make sure it wasn't a fuel pressure problem. Still running rich. Anybody have any other ideas? I noticed my BPT was leaking. Would this be from the EGR being stuck open? The intake is filled with black soot. So this is my guess right now. Or the timing is off but I don't see how that's possible unless the chain the skipped and it looked fine when I took the valve cover off. So the right now I'm down to EGR being broken, Valve cover leak for some reason, or timing (Distributor is going maybe). It's so rich it's puffing black smoke. My head is making a ticking sound too. So I think it's the chain but the only thing I removed off mine is the top guide unless the other two snapped off. The KA24E is supposed to have a head that never has to be a rebuilt so furthering my confusion on the ticking sound.

[rocksteady_racer]

So what everyone is indicating by their silence is time for my engine rebuild LoL.