KA24DE tried to kill me on the 405

[yodc]

Back story
Ive been searching this morning but need some help, if I could even get a little help with search terms that would be great. :2f2f:
-91 ka24de "hatch"
-just barely under 150k (doing plug/wire/cap'n'rotor, fuel filter, air filter, oil change, and all that good stuff this weekend)

Current issue

I had just got on the freeway, and needed to put down some power to pass a truck before I was forced off the freeway again. Once I passed the truck, and proceeded into the #2 lane the vehicle lost power. The RPM's were declining slowly and the throttle would not put them back up. I hit the hazards and got to the side just before I ran out of momentum. On the side of the road I attempted to start the car again. This is where it get out of my league.

The car starts, Idles at 1k for just a second. Then bounces violently from 500 to 1k several times before it dies. (kind of reminded me of when my fuel pump went out but this feels more precise whereas the fuel pump failure seemed random)

As I was getting my AAA card for a tow when I tried again, and the car started fine. (I took side streets home)


If I can get some good search terms on this, (I may be lacking the vocabulary) that would be great all feedback is welcome, so go ahead and turn the flame-thrower up to 10 if necessary.:trogdor:

-Cody

[projectRDM]

Tons of things. Clogged cat. Faulty plug or plug wire. Cap or rotor deterioration, damaged MAF, intake leak, shorted coil or power transistor, etc.

Start with the basics, fuel and spark.

[Razi]

My KA-T crapped out on my like that on the freeway, the fuel pump fuse blew.
Also, how old is your fuel filter?

[RHD Rotory]

vac. leak? spray carb cleaner around the tb. and intercooler boots, and the intake manifold to see if there is leaks. Does the car rev up fine? does it boost?

[yodc]

I'm replacing the basic spark components this weekend and will be sure to test the coil as well. "Power transistor" is a new one for me, so I'm gonna look into this as well once I find out what it is.

Fuel filter is going to be replaced as well, P.O. had no service records so its age is anyone's guess... (I've heard the z32 filter is "better" and will be looking for some documentation on the subject)

The pump is about 3 months old (walbro), and the car runs so the fuse should be fine right?

Unfortunate for me the car does not boost as it is NA... But Ill look into the possibility of a vac leak just in case.

Currently the car drives fine, which is what scares me the most. I feel like its gonna do it again randomly.

Thanks for the support so far... Ill keep this updated with my findings, maybe it will aid some one else's search.

[SmogSUX]

Test the fuel pump...typical culprit. I've seen them start to crap out as early as 100k miles, and some last til 200K+

Like someone said test fuel and spark.

[gotspins13]

fuel
spark
maf
go from there=]

[TravisSW]

Yodc:

If you had a Walbro, like I do. If it doesn't work, you wouldn't hear it prime would you? I hear mine prime all the time and when it doesn't, i know it isn't working due to some stuff that I've done to the car.

Try having your tire blow out on the 405N freeway next to Boomers and see what has a higher chance of death. :P lol

I'm still a bit scared of my tire going out again though, I don't want to swerve across all lanes again, especially during the day time.

Just try toying with things, can't hurt that much. I'm no pro either myself, but have some beers and try to have some fun when you're working on it. That's what I do :D, open the garage, crank 95.5 for some classic rock and pretend to know what I'm doing or do misc random shit lol.

This post is full of helpful info!

[blackrms13]

i had similar problem when my distributor died

car will start run for a little bit and die
and sometimes i have to wait like 20min to start it up again

so yeah
hope this help?

[yodc]

I've been driving every day so far with no issue, but I haven't gotten near freeway speed/rpm.

Today I grabbed some auto zone battery terminals, mine were looking almost deteriorated. I'm no electrical guru however I don't think this is the culprit, because I did not loose my radio during the whole incident. Unless there was not enough voltage to keep the car running, but enough to keep the radio going and to crank the engine?

Could it be possible the terminals were not supplying enough voltage to throw spark continuously, but had enough power to crank the engine and throw spark for a bit before the car died after the incident??

Thanks for the distributor suggestion, I should of thought to get it tested.

edit
Oh... and I guess I'll give KLOS a try as well hahah maybe my car doesn't like kroq....

[SlideKing92]

This happened to me a while back, it was leaking vacuum hose

[BigVinnie]

Check ecu codes (if any).
Check brake booster vacuum line and vacuum lines in general (PCV lines).
I agree with projectRDM that you should check your CAT. If the CAT is plugged, it will also do damage and gum up the IACV, and TB.
Check ignition coil for spark.
Test injectors.
Check intake system for leaky gaskets.
Make sure that your engine isn't hydrostatic locking, from coolant bleeding into your cylinders.

[cotbu]

coolant temp problems even, what was the temperature? She was trying to warn you but you, just wouldn't listen to her!

[yodc]

CEL has remained off, and coolant temp was right where it should have been at time of the incident.

Drove freeway conditions today, and had a slight stumble at 4.5k. Once I felt that I backed off and kept it in the slow lane...

If I recall correctly some one said that issues at 4.5k were usually MAF? Im searching that right now.

Also looking into checking the CAT, found a good write up here Catalytic Converter (http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm) Any one know if autozone rents back pressure gauges because the cheapest I can find one online is 170$ If not I guess ill drop the cat for a light inspection...