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View Full Version : Slack on timing chain


240Stilo
02-19-2003, 04:17 PM
Well after fixing the rattling problem, by taking off the two top chain guides, i saw the chain had a lot of slack and I do mean A LOT! So, I was just wondering if i should install a new tensioner for the top chain or is there some other procedure that fixes this?

-Juan

AceInHole
02-19-2003, 04:59 PM
you could try taking the tensioner off and cleaning it out. It might be gunked up and sticking.

240Stilo
02-19-2003, 06:34 PM
So , basically a good working tensioner would solve my problem correct? I thought for their to be slack on a chain it would have to have jumped some teeth. I still don't understand why a chain would have slack when the three points that turn the chain are always in the same location. On my bicycle i would understand because the back wheel might have slid forward due to a loose bolt but on a car? why weren't the chains made to be exactly the size needed to circle the sprockets?...if that's what they're called.

-Juan

AceInHole
02-19-2003, 06:39 PM
The tensioner will work if the chain is still good. If you're replacing the tensioner, might as well replace the chain also. You can check the rollers on the chain for wear. If it's not visible the chain really shouldn't NEED replacing (although it might help.... and why do the same job twice when you can do it once and end up in better condition?)

misnomer
02-19-2003, 06:40 PM
There will be slack on the chain when the motor isn't running. You will notice you can fairly easily move the tensioner in and out. It's powered by oil pressure, not a spring. Make certain it can move fairly easily, replace it if you are uncomfortable about it. You could pull it off and clean any gunk out of it. I didn't bother when I pulled my upper guides because there was no sign of gunk buildup anywhere that I could see. Just pulled the upper guides, put her back together, and she's been runnin' like a charm. From what I understand, if you are having issues with slack in the timing chain, it's likely due to low oil pressure. Unfortunately, I can't think of any way to test this unless you can pressurize the oil system with the motor off. . .

Edit: There is no way to have the timing chain without some sort of slack in it because you need a way to put it on. If there were no slack, you couldn't get it on the camshafts, hence why you need the tensioner to get rid of that slack.

AceInHole
02-19-2003, 06:42 PM
Well, you could always get an oil pressure gauge or tester and test the car with the covers on just to see what kind of oil pressure you're getting. I think it's 9psi at idle?? I'll have to check the FSM

240Stilo
02-19-2003, 06:42 PM
How easy should it be to move the tensioner because i sure tried and didn't budge. I was using my ultimate strength to move it and nothing. Did anyone else see they had a considerable amount of slack when they took off their chain guides?

AceInHole
02-19-2003, 06:44 PM
Originally posted by 240Stilo
How easy should it be to move the tensioner because i sure tried and didn't budge. I was using my ultimate strength to move it and nothing.

To move the tensioner or to unbolt it?? The tensioner might move with a bit of resistance, but it definitely should move if you've got all your weight on it. Sounds like maybe you've got a seized tensioner.

240Stilo
02-19-2003, 06:52 PM
Originally posted by misnomer
Edit: There is no way to have the timing chain without some sort of slack in it because you need a way to put it on. If there were no slack, you couldn't get it on the camshafts, hence why you need the tensioner to get rid of that slack.

Good answer. Thanks.


Originally posted by AceInHole
To move the tensioner or to unbolt it?? The tensioner might move with a bit of resistance, but it definitely should move if you've got all your weight on it. Sounds like maybe you've got a seized tensioner.

Well misnomer said that it should move pretty easy and i'm just wondering how easy is easy.

misnomer
02-19-2003, 07:09 PM
I checked mine by wedging a flatbladed screwdriver (bigun) between the end of the tension and the housing for the tensioner (right above the piston, be careful not to scratch it though). The tensioner housing itself shouldn't move at all, but the piston should go in and out without any great deal of pressure.

Oh, and Ace is waaaay too frikkin' fast for me :P

240Stilo
02-19-2003, 11:26 PM
Thanks, that's all i need to know. Well for now that is;) :D

mrmephistopheles
02-20-2003, 12:07 AM
Originally posted by 240Stilo
I was using my ultimate strength

That move sounds cool.. is it L, R, L, R, Square, Circle, Square, Circle, L1, L1, L1? If so, I know that move.. just didn't know what it was called.

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)

240Stilo
02-20-2003, 03:38 PM
Haha!.....Sounds like a fatality move...one where you uppercut Sub-zero into an oncoming 240. (Had to add the 240;) )

kalieaire
02-20-2003, 10:27 PM
Hey guys, don't just replace the tensioner and chain for the hell of it.

Even if you do, your new chain and tensioner might do nothing.

The tensioner is supposed to have some slack in it when the motor isn't running.

this is why,
since your tensioner is run by oil pressure, and the chain is a non-wear item, "technically", it is not supposed to ever require replacement.

So, find if you've got low oil pressure, and if you do, find out why. it could be clogged oil passages, messed up oil pickup, dent in the oil pan, or even a dying oil pump.