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deukalionS14
12-19-2008, 01:16 AM
Hi guys,

I've been searching and searching but havent come accross the info that i'm looking for. I just got a JWT tune for my S14 SR and here are the parts that I have.

S14 SR (duh)
GT2871r .64
Tomei 740cc Injectors
Z32 MAFS
BC 264/264 cams
GReddy Pully Kit
ARP Head Studs
Flex-A-Lite dual electric fans
Tomei Metal HG 1.2mm
NISMO FPR
and some other goodies for cooling

My question is...how much PSI's can i possibly push before i get knocking or detonation? I would like to take the car to Steve to have him dial it in but would it be safe for me to push 17psi before i take it to him?

What can i do to make sure that there is no knocking? The ECU should be plug and play but to what extent?

CodyAce has a JWT tune and he loves it but i'm new to this whole tuning deal and just need all the info i can get about how much psi's i can push safely with the set up i have until i manage to set up a time with Steve

Please help!!

burnsauto
12-19-2008, 01:31 AM
Before you get it on the dyno, i'd be conservative with the boost levels. Once you get the thing completely dialed in safely, have fun:)

Try seeing if you can get in contact with JWT beforehand, telling them your setup, and they should give you an accurate number of psi to push on their tune.

EDIT: JWT's phone number 619 442-0680

S13Sr20detSilvia
12-26-2008, 08:23 PM
well the gt2871r will need a upgraded actuator

Typical dyno setup in the average of 340-350rwhp on 91 pump gas in the upwards of 18-20psi with HKS upgraded actuator! **

sbanzer123
12-27-2008, 08:20 AM
i run 20psi on my 2871r with a stock actuator and profec b. buy a wide band and keep turning up the boost until you get the afr's your looking for.

98s14inaz
12-28-2008, 09:34 AM
You've got plenty of fuel, I agree with the others to hook up a wideband and gradually up the boost until your afr's look kosher. When I had my ka-t I set an optimum high boost set up and then had a low boost set up so I could toggle at the push of a button on my profecb.

pavcon
12-28-2008, 12:44 PM
oops I just wrote something and then I saw u mentioned it...sorry...

deukalionS14
02-22-2009, 09:48 PM
bumping my own old thread. i got the JWT tune and it runs so rich...i got the AEM wideband in and i have to adjust the FPR just to "try" to see the numbers i want...*sigh* this shit is killing me

S14DB
02-22-2009, 09:54 PM
Have you called them and talked to them about it?
Jim Wolf Technology website (http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/contact.asp)

deukalionS14
02-25-2009, 09:27 PM
im working through McKinney with them but im going to just dump the ECU and go for a stand alone

deukalionS14
03-27-2009, 10:30 AM
sooo...an update...the problem has yet to be fixed. the car can run and push but it AFR's are waaaaay off...i wish i could show these guys whats going on.

Mckinney is going to do a complete check over and make sure that it's not my car causing the richness then we go from there...i hope JWT doesnt charge me an arm n a leg to fix this if it IS the tune. no fingers pointed here but if it IS the tune i dont expect to have to pay to get a retune for a bad tune. unless they say i can pay the difference for a dyno tune hehehehe

180Sil
03-27-2009, 01:54 PM
well the jwt ecu targets 11afr under boost, it uses your 02 sensor and maf reading to calculate the necessary fuel to hit that target. 11afr is rich but its conservative and its what they will give you unless you ask for something else. you will also need to check your factory water temp sensor because if it reads hot than the ecu will run rich, i had that happen to my car with the jwt ecu.

ultimately i went PFC because of my built motor and twin disk clutch. i suspect the extra engine noise trigger more knock and the jwt ecu was retarding my timing.

S14DB
03-27-2009, 02:21 PM
sooo...an update...the problem has yet to be fixed. the car can run and push but it AFR's are waaaaay off...i wish i could show these guys whats going on.

Mckinney is going to do a complete check over and make sure that it's not my car causing the richness then we go from there...i hope JWT doesnt charge me an arm n a leg to fix this if it IS the tune. no fingers pointed here but if it IS the tune i dont expect to have to pay to get a retune for a bad tune. unless they say i can pay the difference for a dyno tune hehehehe

They were helpful with tuning problems on their end. Only time I have seen them charge is if you changed something to affect the tune.
well the jwt ecu targets 11afr under boost, it uses your 02 sensor and maf reading to calculate the necessary fuel to hit that target. 11afr is rich but its conservative and its what they will give you unless you ask for something else. you will also need to check your factory water temp sensor because if it reads hot than the ecu will run rich, i had that happen to my car with the jwt ecu.

ultimately i went PFC because of my built motor and twin disk clutch. i suspect the extra engine noise trigger more knock and the jwt ecu was retarding my timing.
Are you saying the JWT tune says closed loop at WOT? That would be suicidal with a narrow band sensor.

deukalionS14
04-02-2009, 10:45 AM
Yeah well my AFR's were like no shit in the 10.0:1 range and i dont think the UEGO reads any lower than that...

ANOTHER UPDATE:

Soooo i took the car to McKinney for them to check it out..adn it came back running like shit?! WTF?! i dont know what he did to it while it was in his hands but it sputters and tries to fall on its face once it sees boost and then pushes through at the end.

I tried closing the gap on the plugs a little to see if it will help and NOPE nothing changed. The car has been running like ass since i got it back from them late last year...

I got back from Iraq and Steve took a look at it and noticed the timing was WAY off and helped me.

Mack at McKenny gave me the bad news when i went to pick up the car though. he said that my compression is bad..#1 150 #2 145 #3 140 and #4 118...i drove it like that since saturday and it's to the point where i cant stand driving it anymore.

I took the car off the road yesterday and im taking it to Canyon Racer Motorsports to have Mike Kondo rebuild it and steve tune the shit out of it for me.

It may have been a series of unfortunate events that has brought me to this point and i will not point fingers in ANY direction because i have no proof of whos fault it was. however, I CAN say that i will NEVER touch a rom tune again. i dont care how bad ass or easy they say it is. it's not worth the head ache...

You figure you come back from a years deployment to be able to drive the car that you PAID someone to build...not suffer because things are going down hill.

oh well, like i said the motor is going to be rebuilt by mike and tuned by steve. we're going to meet on saturday to come up with our game plan and i will take their advice on what should be done to it. i'll post back up once the ball starts to roll again.

thanks for reading this long ass post

deukalionS14
10-18-2009, 05:21 AM
so i had the set up looked over a couple months ago by Otis at RB-Performance n figured out that it was the fuel pump that was causing the lean condition in higher psi's the tune was fine lol

i felt pretty damn dumb when i found that out

rps13drift
10-18-2009, 06:26 AM
well the jwt ecu targets 11afr under boost, it uses your 02 sensor and maf reading to calculate the necessary fuel to hit that target. 11afr is rich but its conservative and its what they will give you unless you ask for something else. you will also need to check your factory water temp sensor because if it reads hot than the ecu will run rich, i had that happen to my car with the jwt ecu.

ultimately i went PFC because of my built motor and twin disk clutch. i suspect the extra engine noise trigger more knock and the jwt ecu was retarding my timing.


It actualy doesnt use your o2 sensor at all for WOT situations. I believe its all by the maf and tps readings. I had trouble getting my new motor started and running right for a little last year and I call jwt about it. They said that I actualy didnt even need to run the sr20 o2 sensor if I didnt want to and it was only used for idle and low throttle situations

deukalionS14
10-19-2009, 04:27 AM
It actualy doesnt use your o2 sensor at all for WOT situations. I believe its all by the maf and tps readings. I had trouble getting my new motor started and running right for a little last year and I call jwt about it. They said that I actualy didnt even need to run the sr20 o2 sensor if I didnt want to and it was only used for idle and low throttle situations

yeah, i think your right about the way it reads off the maf and tps.

fliprayzin240sx
10-19-2009, 05:21 AM
Get a fucking PFC or a standalone and have Steve install/tune it...problem solved...

deukalionS14
10-19-2009, 09:54 PM
Get a fucking PFC or a standalone and have Steve install/tune it...problem solved...

i already have a PFC and had someone else tune it lol. i made 407whp and 408tq on E85

sacco sideways
12-06-2009, 11:11 AM
^^ yeah jwt's ecu doesnt need the o2 sensor at all, it only matters when your fully warmed up and at idle. it just saves you a couple drops of gas having it pluged in