Durable Interior body paint (Gutted int)

[MrFairlady]

Looking to try to paint my Gutted interior of my project car - curious to what I should use that will be Durable "enough" for the inside open Metal Floor (will have floormats but thats all) and the surroundings

Seen some nicley painted interiors on here.What are you usings and has it held up.
Spray Bomb - Rustoleum.
I don't want truck lining as I'd like it to have some shine...not a flat type.

i Also don't wanna get a Gun and Spray if i don't have to - Want GLOSS Blk (car is blk) that will Spruce up the interior.KH-3??
Sound deadning has been removed and of course theres a bunch of non-matching Factory spots where it Was.

[WERDdabuilder]

edit: buah my bad, i totally just looked over what you typed.

[MrFairlady]

I don't want truck lining as I'd like it to have some shine...not a flat type.


any other ideas?

[HS13KLS]

spray truck bed lining
and paint over it with a gloss black/clear...

but if you really dont want to use truck liner.

either put your interior back in..i mean is it soley a track car?

or.

paint it with regular paint.
and put like some alumminum sheet metal down(cut to size)
and rivet it on. so it looks good or somthing.
or do some crazy shit. and put some woodgrain for the floorboard.

lol i personally think that might be cool...id like to see it done.

[ngibson]

How about some kind of epoxy based paint.

This is what I'm going to use to paint my engine bay:
Eastwood Company: Auto Tools, Body Repair, Classic Car Restoration, House of Kolor Paint, Powder Coating (http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1596&itemType=CONTENT)

[BrandonS13]

por15 is damn good for that kinda job im not sure if its available in the states, otherwise i would go to i guess autozone and ask for rollbar paint, spray cans its meant for the roll bars in the back of pickup trucks, it will do the job just fine

[Maiku240sxS14]

I will be in the process too. Right now removed interior and removing sound deadning material. So curious on what to do with painting it....

MrFairlady...what you use to remove the sound deadning material? I'm going with dry ice...

[MrFairlady]

I will be in the process too. Right now removed interior and removing sound deadning material. So curious on what to do with painting it....

MrFairlady...what you use to remove the sound deadning material? I'm going with dry ice...
yep,..dry ice made it simple.Used prob 10lbs total.
Gave up around some of the tunnel though - center console will cover it up - but thats where it Gets REAL hard.

Chassis Blk is what I was told to spray (because its epoxy based) but 1 of my body guys @ work said it wouldn't be that durable really...so i figured..maybe rustoleum might even be decent.

Need to be able to do it somewhere and hope it dries fast and not like a day to dry.

[ngibson]

Chassis Blk is what I was told to spray (because its epoxy based) but 1 of my body guys @ work said it wouldn't be that durable really...so i figured..maybe rustoleum might even be decent.

You're comparing an epoxy based paint to a regular old spray paint. Which one do you think is going to last longer? Hands down it's going to be the epoxy paint. Any two part paint is going to last longer than a rattle can spray paint. Plus, the link I posted has ceramic additive to make it even more durable.

[Maiku240sxS14]

Cool, 10 lbs is good enough...thanks i was curious on how much dry ice I should get. What process gets real hard? Doing the material on the tunnel?

[MrFairlady]

You're comparing an epoxy based paint to a regular old spray paint. Which one do you think is going to last longer? Hands down it's going to be the epoxy paint. Any two part paint is going to last longer than a rattle can spray paint. Plus, the link I posted has ceramic additive to make it even more durable.


Well obviously the chassis blk is the one to use...but:
A: ALOT of work involved to make THAT type of paint work
B: Renting or borrowing a paint gun to spray it (i have a decent compressor)
C: $50+ for it alone & ahve to order it (napa I think stocks it) - not including primer and materials needed to MAKE that paint work.
D:Ceramic additive - prob more $$$
E: Cost is obviously somewhat of a factor because I mentioned Rustoleum,.incase you didn't catch the point of me mentioning it.
F: would like to weigh my options on what I could do @ half the cost for something that will be fine for just me in teh car.

It dosen't necess have to hold up to a damn Dinosaur Rolling around in there scratching shit.Mainly For looks is # 1 - Price #2 durability would be 3 tired w/ ease - 3 price.

parts in the car will be Dash,Door panels (maybe),Center console seat or 2 and thats about it.I'm looking to paint the Floor,maybe the 1/4's on the inside and th etrunk and the Wheel wells.

maybe the truck liner,dependent on price w/ a top coat of gloss may work???
__________________________________________________ __

Dry ice def helps.Leave it on for a while - then start Busting
I gave up on the Wheel wells also as thats hard as hell.

I weighed all that i took out and it was only 29lbs...& I didn't even do ALl of it.
Some of it Needs to stay down...Its holding the car together in some areas (floor boards and around some body plugs)


Thanks guys

[Def]

Rustoleum appliance epoxy is good for a rattle bomb. It'll still scratch, but it takes a lot, way more than regular spray paints since it is an epoxy.

They have gloss black, gloss white, stainless steel(very matte finish, kinda cool, I've done some other bits in this), and nasty almond.

I'm doing my interior/roll bar with the gloss black.

[MrFairlady]

Rustoleum appliance epoxy is good for a rattle bomb. It'll still scratch, but it takes a lot, way more than regular spray paints since it is an epoxy.

They have gloss black, gloss white, stainless steel(very matte finish, kinda cool, I've done some other bits in this), and nasty almond.

I'm doing my interior/roll bar with the gloss black.
there we go...now we're talking.

Shit sonz,Almond/Bisq would be the shizzle........:-/:snoop: BALLINnnnn!

Gloss blk sounds perfect in that stuff.

[Def]

I found it at my local Lowes for about $4.30ish per can. Would probably need 2-3 cans to do the back half of a car, 3-4 for the whole interior.

[ngibson]

Well obviously the chassis blk is the one to use...but:
A: ALOT of work involved to make THAT type of paint work
B: Renting or borrowing a paint gun to spray it (i have a decent compressor)
C: $50+ for it alone & ahve to order it (napa I think stocks it) - not including primer and materials needed to MAKE that paint work.
D:Ceramic additive - prob more $$$
E: Cost is obviously somewhat of a factor because I mentioned Rustoleum,.incase you didn't catch the point of me mentioning it.
F: would like to weigh my options on what I could do @ half the cost for something that will be fine for just me in teh car.

It dosen't necess have to hold up to a damn Dinosaur Rolling around in there scratching shit.Mainly For looks is # 1 - Price #2 durability would be 3 tired w/ ease - 3 price.


My mistake man, I didn't see the cost issue in the first post. The link I posted is an epoxy based paint, with a ceramic additive already in it etc etc.

Like Def posted, that appliance paint can be pretty tough too. Just remember that your prep work is the biggest part of making that job look nice. Sand it down thoroughly, wipe it down with some cleaner that doesn't leave residue and go to town.

Good luck, I'd like to see the end result when you get it finished.

[turtl631]

Go biscuit!

And then you can also paint your mixer with the leftovers, plus your fridge if you're going for that 1950s look.

[MrFairlady]

Go biscuit!

And then you can also paint your mixer with the leftovers, plus your fridge if you're going for that 1950s look.


Hell yeah baby - Bisq!!!!! FTW!

damn,what a 1972 color that is.Pretty Fugly,..but seen them in a kitchen w/ Green walls and Shit did look HOT!
Use to work @ LOWES for 7 years - in Appliances for 1 of those years.


Thanks for the Help All.I was hoping to just Spray some Stuff down and Didn't evern really want to sand and clean - but I guess I have to for it to even work right.Damn I'm dreading that part of it.

[DataXUnknown]

Are you just sanding and cleaning, then gunna paint on that? Or are you going to primer it as well? Curious because I'm about to do the same thing to mine.

Post up some pics of how it turns out! =)

[Maiku240sxS14]

+ 1 for posting up pix with the finish out come...

[ngibson]

Thanks for the Help All.I was hoping to just Spray some Stuff down and Didn't evern really want to sand and clean - but I guess I have to for it to even work right.Damn I'm dreading that part of it.

At the very least it needs to be cleaned with some good chemical and degreaser for the paint to even thing about sticking. Sanding it down will make it stick much better. Sanding definitly isn't the most fun, but the end result will be worth it. I'd go with something like 150grit or 220 grit sandpaper.

[MrFairlady]

I guess I better @least Scuff it w/ some 220 or Red scotch Brite - wish it was as easy as just painting it but It NEver is.

May get to it this weekend (sunroof hole is being welded maybe sat),or next week - weather is starting to get cold so its now or never ya know.

[Def]

The can recommends NOT priming before using the appliance epoxy. I wiped down my dry ice'd interior with acetone(dries immediately), then sprayed a small test patch. No problems adhering to the factory paint/primer areas. Took quite a bit of screwdriver scratching to show up, so I figure it might go a few years without really needing a touchup(it's a track car).

The gloss black is probably the best gloss finish I've seen from a rattle can. Be careful if you do more than one coat, as if the previous surface is tacky, you'll get TONS of crazing on the 2nd coat. If I do more than 1 coat I wait at least a few days. But honestly, one decently thick coat is good enough for an interior paintjob, and I think the gloss looks better on one coat vs. two or three.

I tack welded my wheel well seam and sprayed this in there. Looks good, and will add another layer of protection(no wheel liners).

[deadghost]

Hey Mr. Fairlady how long is the process going to take you, from the moment you took off your panels to the moment you were done painting and puting them back on. I am currently thinking of doing this over the weekend when I might get some time.

[S14DB]

+1 for appliance paint.

Scuff it down with Steel wool or scotch brite pads and spray away.

[Bigsyke]

Ive done the inside of my civic 4 times. Each time I Wirewheeled the chassis down, degreased with simplegreen, the wiped down with 91% rubbing alcohol. Dried then self etched with primer.

1st was spray. It chipped and flaked
2nd was using a spray gun, same thing
3rd was using bedliner, flaked away in the wind.

4th was using a roll on latex paint from rustoleum. It was a satin black. It was about as hard as POR15. Would not scratch, and I had a hard time sanding it all down to a smooth glossy surface. Needless to say, I couldve layed 100 coats down, and the shell wouldve became more and more durable.

Best stuff for interiors, takes more time but WELL worth it.

You can then follow up with another top coat (metalic/pearl ) and then clear it. Wait 5 months then sand with 2000 grit, Wax/cut and wax again.

0 overspray, and durrable as hell!

[fromxtor]

Also paint thinner cleans any hard to remove sound deadener residue like magic.

[GSXRJJordan]

Ive done the inside of my civic 4 times. Each time I Wirewheeled the chassis down, degreased with simplegreen, the wiped down with 91% rubbing alcohol. Dried then self etched with primer.

1st was spray. It chipped and flaked
2nd was using a spray gun, same thing
3rd was using bedliner, flaked away in the wind.

4th was using a roll on latex paint from rustoleum. It was a satin black. It was about as hard as POR15. Would not scratch, and I had a hard time sanding it all down to a smooth glossy surface. Needless to say, I couldve layed 100 coats down, and the shell wouldve became more and more durable.

Best stuff for interiors, takes more time but WELL worth it.

You can then follow up with another top coat (metalic/pearl ) and then clear it. Wait 5 months then sand with 2000 grit, Wax/cut and wax again.

0 overspray, and durrable as hell!

Roll on, huh? Sounds like a pain in the ass, but if it's got the consistency of Por15 it might be worth it.

When I seam welded mine, I used primer/sealer and left it... I've been thinking about painting the interior a satin black, but that'd be after I put some sound deadener on the key areas to try and get some decent audio out of my system. I wonder how well that shit would stick to the shiney side of Scosche Accumat?

[MrFairlady]

hmmm....Roll on is SOunding actually what I'd rather do.But Roll on would have to be BRUSH on. Interior is not flat surfaced 1 bit.No Overspray is why I'd rather do that.


Removing the interior panels (and sunroof,sunroff sub assy) and dry Iced I did in about a Full day if I did it start to finish..mainly because I had to Drill out Spot welds on the Sunroof Sub assy.everything else was cake.
I re-routed the Trunk/Gas cable to hide behined some panels instead of running through the middle of the back seat Bullshit.Looked gay Stock.I haven't painted yet.

Should start tomorrow w/ painting the trunk to see how long it takes to dry and get an idea and do the rest later.We shall see.Love the brush on paint idea though.Don't have to tape shit off either.GREAT INFO!

[Bigsyke]

It takes some time to dry, but the best part is you can mix your own paint, Add some japan dryer, metalic flakes and some other shit.

IMO once you rattle can the interior youve destroyed the car. How is that going to last on the floor board? The bedliner was the worst of the worst ive done. Couldnt sand it smoother, and it flaked off just by stomping on the floor board.

The oil based latex rustolem paint looks bad ass when sanded down, and is like jbF*ukinweld when used in several layers.

This is why I cringe when I see rattle canned engine bays. The latex oil based paint even mixed with the sludge

http://toolsmet.com/paint-stain-and-solvents/rustoleum-cxk.jpg

[Def]

I rolled on Rustoleum Professional on the outside of my car, but it likes to orange peel a bit(may or may not bother you). It is definitely tough though, but I'd say the Appliance Epoxy is 90% as strong and you can do it twice as fast. Seriously, how long does it take to pull a few things like lights out and then mask off a few bits?

You'd have to be a retard to be painting your car with cheap ass Painter's Touch enamel. At least go with something that can stand some UV light and take some abuse.

[MrFairlady]

Yeah...Like which Rust paint are we talking about
This: http://toolsmet.com/primer/rustoleumflectocorp-rw.jpg
or what

Not the Oil based:
http://toolsmet.com/primer/rustoleumflectocorp-ru.jpg

I'm gonna try the trunk 1st.Dependent on how smooth I can Brush it....Rolling it just seems impossible

WHat kind of brush - not a damn Foam Brush????

[Def]

You want the Rustoleum Professional - looks like the last one you put up. Thin it with acetone.

Use a foam roller(white, dense foam, pretty small like 5" wide), then a normal brush in some areas. It will flatten out with about 20% acetone in it pretty well.

I did my whole car like this, and I still wouldn't recommend it on the interior, especially if you aren't going to be careful about drips and stuff or think about wetsanding(impossible in the car).



Trust me, I've done enough ghetto "track car" painting to know - just rattle bomb it with the appliance epoxy. You'll get a nice gloss finish and save yourself tons of time. If you scratch it up in a year or so, just rattle bomb it again(not likely in my experience, unless a scratch or two bother you).

Red scotchbrite is a good surface prep agent before an acetone wipe down to prep the surface.

[sileighty83]

I just did the rustoleum appliance epoxy rattle can on mine yesterday....good god does that shit stick to everything or what. Dont get me wrong im not trying to discourage but rather educate ppl first, cuz I'm not a paint expert and I learned the hard way. Masked off everything but the paint is so dense that it lingers in the air for a while, and will stick to what it lands on. Well apparently I had a small hole in my drop cloth and it leaked into my front interior luckily not to much was ruined, and I fixed it but Im still not finished either =(

In the end it looks good, but hey thats what matters right!

[MrFairlady]

I just did the rustoleum appliance epoxy rattle can on mine yesterday....good god does that shit stick to everything or what. Dont get me wrong im not trying to discourage but rather educate ppl first, cuz I'm not a paint expert and I learned the hard way. Masked off everything but the paint is so dense that it lingers in the air for a while, and will stick to what it lands on. Well apparently I had a small hole in my drop cloth and it leaked into my front interior luckily not to much was ruined, and I fixed it but Im still not finished either =(

In the end it looks good, but hey thats what matters right!
Nice!

so did you Scuff the interior or just Spray it down.
have you had a chance test the Durability?

I'm going to probably Roll mine into are Booth @ work and spray in there so it will Suck it all out...Granted my Car is COMPLETLY Gutted.So it won't mater what it sticks to.

[landins13]

i used engine enamle in my vw and it held up for about a year before i had to redo it, but i daily drive the car and move a lot of shit around, if you really want, paint it all and throw down a floor mat on the driverside and youll be fine.

[sileighty83]

here u go "Mrfairlady" I finally finished it a week ago crappy pic but u get the jist...
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/53/l_013f73837e764cd99ef70715ddce0a2f.jpg

[bejota180sx]

i just finished mine today ill take a pic tomorrow... it looks just like sileighty83, i removed the sound deadening, cleaned with laquer thinner, sanded it with 330grit, cleaned with acetone and the primered with rustoleum clean metal primer(its white) 5 cans, wetsanded and all that stuff, painted with rustoleum stop rust gloss white, looks great, tomorrow ill wetsand a bit and finish it off... turned out really nice, waaaaaaayy better than i imagined!

[CharlesSot]

I know this is a really old thread, but i want to say a few things for anybody who might be looking into this now.

1. USE DRY ICE!!! - I didn't and it was the hugest pain.
2. USE DRY ICE!!

After i was done with my gut, i got a right angle grinder with a wire wheel and lightly braised the surface.

Then applied POR 15 over the floor of the car
Then i did Herculiner- Roll on truck bed liner (did not want to do spray to make sure none of the electrical components would get anything inside)

Also it would be a great idea to check out the 4x4 forums and the classic car reno forums as those guys do that stuff ALL the time and they have great write ups/guides on what they did.

Gutting your interior is a huge project not to be taken lightly.
Additionally, 1 more tid bit - every bolt/screw etc that you take out IMMEDIATELY label where it goes as you take it out.

-Charles