K-Sport or TCS s13 tie rod ends?

[dwadia]

I need to replace my tie rod ends because they're worn. My inner tie rods are fine and i really have no desire or reason to replace and upgrade them. I don't drift and the stock ones are adequate for me. So, i'm looking for tie rod ends that screw onto the stock inner tie rods. I've found both TC Sportline and KSport on ebay for reasonable prices.

What i really want to know from you guys is, do you see any reason for concern in using these "budget" brands for tie rod ends? I know it's a critical steering component, although it's hard for me to imagine these just breaking without a severe impact (crash). What do you guys think? Any preferences between these brands? I'd also consider other brands that made ends which will fit stock s13 inner tie rods.

[5t341tH]

why not just get stock s14 ends?
or tein if u like oem-like-parts-that-cost-more

[FaLKoN240]

How about you don't buy either because neither of those companies test or give a shit about tolerances or quality.

If you're going to consider buying outer tie rods you should only consider one company and that's SPL.

Otherwise get an OEM style outer like Tein.

[DMiller]

why not just get stock s14 ends?
or tein if u like oem-like-parts-that-cost-more

he needs s13 outers if he is using s13 inner tie rods.......

if you buy aftermarket outer tie rod ends, they are USUALLY made for S14 inner tie rod thread size. (s14 thicker than s13).


OP, just buy S13 Moog OE replacements at the nearest autozone/advance auto/*insert name of favorite chain auto parts store* if you don't have any intentions of replacing your inner tie rods with aftermarket ones.

[dwadia]

Right, i need s13 outers. The reason i was considering those 2 companies is because they actually make ends to fit s13 inners. I thought if it needs to be done i might as well get the pillow ball, but i guess it's already a ball-joint so it shouldn't make a big difference. Moog is probably fine.

[FaLKoN240]

Right, i need s13 outers. The reason i was considering those 2 companies is because they actually make ends to fit s13 inners. I thought if it needs to be done i might as well get the pillow ball, but i guess it's already a ball-joint so it shouldn't make a big difference. Moog is probably fine.

Aftermarket /= always better.

Don't believe the hype.

Do it right the first time, spend some money. Otherwise save your cash and go OEM.

[dwadia]

I'll probably go with Moog but i want to make sure of one other thing first. I am planning on running between 1/16" to 1/8" of toe-in in the front, and i've never had it aligned yet so i don't know what the range of adjustment for the stock tie rod ends is. Will the stock ones be adequate and precise enough in their adjustment to get the specs i want (probably 1/16)?

[!Zar!]

I ran .05 toe out up front.

Just get the tein inners being as how they come with the built in spacer.

The moog's are oem style so they can get you 1/8" in if you want...

[racepar1]

1: Peak Performance Pro
2: SPL
3: TEIN
4: MOOG OE replacements

ANYTHING else that I have seen is not even worth considering. DO NOT buy TCS or k-sport! Nothing but cheap ass crap.

[vvtisupra]

We ran a full season on TCS Links on the Federal S13. Haven't needed to replace any so far, and no slop in the bearings yet. The main importance is clocking the bearing so that when you put the vehicle back on the ground none of the bearings bind.

[Def]

Eh, the SPL stuff seems a little on the expensive side for what you get(IMO), and I'm not sure why they're going "super strong" on the shank. I'd rather have the shank snap in an impact than trash your steering rack or tweak the subframe/frame.

Then again, I got some cheap eBay ends mainly for the shanks and tie rods and am going to make turnbuckles out of large diameter 2024, go with some QA1 rod ends, and use a little titanium for spacers if I decide to change those up. Fabricating your own stuff is where it's at.

[!Zar!]

1: Peak Performance Pro
2: SPL
3: TEIN
4: MOOG OE replacements

ANYTHING else that I have seen is not even worth considering. DO NOT buy TCS or k-sport! Nothing but cheap ass crap.
TCS, Ksport, kazama, I agree with you there, they all are crap. But I would not run peak outters ever.

After seeing a pair of them break in about two weeks without ever crashing is pretty dumb.

My list would have to be,

1. Spl
2. Tein/OE/moog.
3. I don't even have a third. Everything else is crap Imo.
Eh, the SPL stuff seems a little on the expensive side for what you get(IMO), and I'm not sure why they're going "super strong" on the shank. I'd rather have the shank snap in an impact than trash your steering rack or tweak the subframe/frame.

Then again, I got some cheap eBay ends mainly for the shanks and tie rods and am going to make turnbuckles out of large diameter 2024, go with some QA1 rod ends, and use a little titanium for spacers if I decide to change those up. Fabricating your own stuff is where it's at.


Well, crashing isn't something that one plans on.

The reason why SPL goes super strong on the shank is because when people lower their cars, that puts the tie rod at a angle. Even if you correct the geometry by spacing the tierod end it's still changing the pin angle and starts to stress it more.

Not to mention most people are running bigger/wider wheels up front with tons of grip. On a cheaper or lesser tie rod end the shank will snap.

I would MUCH rather the tie rod stay intact than risk it snapping on me while I'm ripping around the track at speed going into a corner.

You get what you pay for. Spl is the only company I'd go with for outters I've seen and gone through many different ones.

[racepar1]

You saw one of these break?
http://www.peak-performance.net/images/stories/products/outer-tie-rod-sc.jpg
SERIOUSLY???

[Def]

Well, crashing isn't something that one plans on.

The reason why SPL goes super strong on the shank is because when people lower their cars, that puts the tie rod at a angle. Even if you correct the geometry by spacing the tierod end it's still changing the pin angle and starts to stress it more.

Not to mention most people are running bigger/wider wheels up front with tons of grip. On a cheaper or lesser tie rod end the shank will snap.

I would MUCH rather the tie rod stay intact than risk it snapping on me while I'm ripping around the track at speed going into a corner.

You get what you pay for. Spl is the only company I'd go with for outters I've seen and gone through many different ones.

The shank's angle in the tie rod makes no difference in the loading it sees. It is only going to see the tractive capacity of the tire as a bending moment. I did some rough calcs and even mild steel should be plenty strong in this setup, as your moment arm just isn't that long.

If you're putting the shank at such an angle as it's hitting the rod end shell, then it doesn't matter what you're making the shank out of, it will fail through repeated shear loading and fretting right at the stress riser created by the rod end ball. That's a geometry problem, not a materials problem.


I'm thinking of trying to get a shop to make a batch of shanks and turnbuckles though.

[dwadia]

So assuming Def is correct, then would the only potential concern and drawback with TCS or K-sport be the quality of the bearing? In that case i could just replace the bearing with a high-quality piece and have something that would be fine for my purposes.

[!Zar!]

You saw one of these break?
http://www.peak-performance.net/images/stories/products/outer-tie-rod-sc.jpg
SERIOUSLY???
Yup.
The shank's angle in the tie rod makes no difference in the loading it sees. It is only going to see the tractive capacity of the tire as a bending moment. I did some rough calcs and even mild steel should be plenty strong in this setup, as your moment arm just isn't that long.

If you're putting the shank at such an angle as it's hitting the rod end shell, then it doesn't matter what you're making the shank out of, it will fail through repeated shear loading and fretting right at the stress riser created by the rod end ball. That's a geometry problem, not a materials problem.


I'm thinking of trying to get a shop to make a batch of shanks and turnbuckles though.
I'm right iirc.

Kuah wrote about it on ziptied. I'll see if I can find it.

[Def]

Right about what? The geometry of the moment arm doesn't change as the angle of the rod end ball changes, it's like moving a ratchet around, the moment arm stays the same, so it doesn't matter as you change the orientation of the ratchet handle about the bolt.

The only time that a much stronger shank makes sense is if you really space up the shank to compensate for very extreme lowering and a different LCA setup that'll change that angle too. You're increasing the moment arm, so perhaps it'd get into a bad situation, but some rough calcs I did didn't seem to suggest it would be an issue.

[FaLKoN240]

Bam... this here is all you'll ever need to know, or read about for when you're buying tie rod ends.

Kazama Tie Rod Outter (http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index.php?topic=15842.msg296383#msg296383)

If you still insist on running shitty brands after reading that then you're a fucking nominee for a Darwin award.

I say that because I know most of the s-chassis owners in the world are too fucking lazy to even drive to pick shit up or hell, even be on time.

So what S-chassis owner would actually give their car down time, seek out the QA bearings, and actually get them pressed in the right way?

I doubt any of them, because most of them settle for what they can afford and waive the issues that may or may not come with lower priced items.

[Def]

The thread confirms I'm right. The only "issues" people talk about are binding the shanks on the rod end and causing a shear/fatigue failure due to repeated loading way beyond normal cornering forces.

BTW - you can also give a "normal" rod end the articulation angle of a high misalignment end with a smart design of the bits that interface with the sides of the rod end ball.

[!Zar!]

Right about what? The geometry of the moment arm doesn't change as the angle of the rod end ball changes, it's like moving a ratchet around, the moment arm stays the same, so it doesn't matter as you change the orientation of the ratchet handle about the bolt.

The only time that a much stronger shank makes sense is if you really space up the shank to compensate for very extreme lowering and a different LCA setup that'll change that angle too. You're increasing the moment arm, so perhaps it'd get into a bad situation, but some rough calcs I did didn't seem to suggest it would be an issue.
You're agreeing with me...

The further the fulcrum point, the more stress it put on the shank.

If splparts only catered to people who weren't spacing the outter to the shank then it wouldn't need to be as beefy.

But since people will be spacing it down since their car is lowered, and being put through extreme stress, they beef it up.