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View Full Version : First time rebuilding KA, I have some ???'s


Tearlessj
10-03-2008, 12:55 AM
Ok first off im rebuilding a KA with the following,

Wiseco Pistons (rings and pin)
Clevlite Bearings
OEM gasket kit
ARP hardware
OEM timing chain kit

Now when I install the crank, I checked the clearance and it seemed to be in spec, But when I torqued down the crank I could not spin it by hand. Is this normal? For some reason I think im supposed to be able to crank it by hand.

The second question is, when installing the new pistons to the factory rods. Do I take the new wrist pin and press it into the old rods? It seems that I have to force it in a little to get it in.

I know these are pretty basic questions, just want to make sure im not doing anything wrong.

gippy87
10-03-2008, 02:24 AM
you should be able to spin the crank by hand if it's not spinning don't force it. I know I was able to spin mine even after installing the pistons. How did you go about checking clearance? You should use plastiguage (may be spelled wrong) and fully torque the crank down then remove it and check clearance. If all is good be sure to use assembly lube and then put it back together. Also when installing pistons I like to turn the crank by hand after each one to make sure it was installed correctly, you don't want to put the last one in and then find out the crank desnt turn you won't know which one is causing a problem.

importdude
10-03-2008, 02:49 AM
i had the same problem

my crank was bent! i got scamed buy holybushfire on here(zilvia)

good luck
its about 100-150 to mic/polish fix a crank


Stock rods NEEDS to be PRESSED IN

sac
10-03-2008, 02:50 AM
^^ this guy pretty much hit the nail on the head.
tearlessj i sent a pm to ya

Tearlessj
10-03-2008, 03:20 AM
you should be able to spin the crank by hand if it's not spinning don't force it. I know I was able to spin mine even after installing the pistons. How did you go about checking clearance? You should use plastiguage (may be spelled wrong) and fully torque the crank down then remove it and check clearance. If all is good be sure to use assembly lube and then put it back together. Also when installing pistons I like to turn the crank by hand after each one to make sure it was installed correctly, you don't want to put the last one in and then find out the crank desnt turn you won't know which one is causing a problem.

I used a plasigauge to check the clearance. Im going to try it again and see what I get. It spun fine at 40ft lbs, but it was hard to spin at 60 ft lbs. I dont think that my crank is bent because if it was it shouldn't spin at 40 ft lbs rite? So I guess the machine shop must put together the pistons and rods for me correct?

louisdaboois
10-03-2008, 09:08 AM
mine did the same thing when i rebuilt it. I got the crank polished and balanced by a local machine shop and they assured that everything was on point. I found that when you torque the crank down, put a socket on the end of the crank and give it a whole rotation between each step and that'll help free it up when fully torqued down.

Also, intalling rods to the pistons is easy as pie. there are little snap rings on either side of the piston to hold the wrist pin in place. Pretend youre putting the shifter back on, but a smaller scale. lol

It's been 16K miles in almost 1.5 years daily driven since I've rebuilt my ka and still runs strong. PM if you have any more questions.

importdude
10-03-2008, 03:21 PM
mine did the same thing when i rebuilt it. I got the crank polished and balanced by a local machine shop and they assured that everything was on point. I found that when you torque the crank down, put a socket on the end of the crank and give it a whole rotation between each step and that'll help free it up when fully torqued down.

Also, intalling rods to the pistons is easy as pie. there are little snap rings on either side of the piston to hold the wrist pin in place. Pretend youre putting the shifter back on, but a smaller scale. lol

It's been 16K miles in almost 1.5 years daily driven since I've rebuilt my ka and still runs strong. PM if you have any more questions.

for stock rods you need to press in/out the wrist pins

for aftermarket rods there full floating which u can just slip in