SamuraiSam
09-09-2008, 12:54 PM
Alrighty... I had an unfortunate turbocharger oil drain mishap and lost all the oil out of the engine. Piston #1 got hot, came apart, damaged a few things.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty3.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty4.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty5.jpg
The head was toast. The valves and rockers were toast along with the cylinder wall, rod, crankshaft, block girdle, etc.
I picked up an S13 blacktop rebuildable good core. The head looks mint. Piston #4 had some detonation issues and loaded the cylinder wall with aluminum from the piston top (not the skirt! wtf). It needs to be bored out and have forged internals put into it. There are no competent machinists- SR20 specialists with the right tooling and knowledge (Torque plate) in the area, so I need to ship out.
So I need to have the block bored and prepped by a competent machine shop. Mazworx is pricey, but I know I'm going to get a perfect job from them. I'm also looking at JGY who has much cheaper pricing and lastly am open to any suggestions from you all.
I am not looking for any assembly, just a place to have the crank micropolished, check the main seal contact areas for wear and fix if possible, block align-honed and bored w/tq plate, rods re-sized, size rod and main bearings, clean oil and coolant passages, head have a valve job done (and perhaps combustion chamber work? if it's worthwhile on the SR as far as preventing detonation), porting done throughout the ports and port-match/gasket match the intake manifold, both mating surfaces decked: All the standard machine shop items.
Leading me to a few questions besides the main one: Who would you reccomend for SR20 machine work for cost-effectiveness (not utter cheapness.)
1. The 'rebuildable' crank's rear main seal contact area is worn and needs to be fixed or speedy-sleeved. I'm not too fond of the idea of speedi-sleeving a brand new engine, so how could that be repaired and any idea on cost? Build up babbit material on the journal?
2. How cost effective is combustion chamber cleanup work on the SR? Deshrouding the valves, removing quench area. On some engines there are huge gains in mechanical octane by properly modifying the combustion chamber. I'd like to boost the shit out of this thing when it gets done :coolugh: and if I can lower the knock threshold with some machine work then I'm for it.
3. Stock rods with ARP rod bolts, checked and bored for out-of-round, or Eagle rods with included ARP bolts, checked and bored for out-of-round? 400hp is the max power goal 'right now'.
4. Anything else I should be looking at? Other machine shops, things I should be buying, things I should have done?
5. Would anybody want a toast head casting and toast block casting to dick around with?
Thanks for all your help.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty3.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty4.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b113/samhi/Carsrelated/SR20carnage/melty5.jpg
The head was toast. The valves and rockers were toast along with the cylinder wall, rod, crankshaft, block girdle, etc.
I picked up an S13 blacktop rebuildable good core. The head looks mint. Piston #4 had some detonation issues and loaded the cylinder wall with aluminum from the piston top (not the skirt! wtf). It needs to be bored out and have forged internals put into it. There are no competent machinists- SR20 specialists with the right tooling and knowledge (Torque plate) in the area, so I need to ship out.
So I need to have the block bored and prepped by a competent machine shop. Mazworx is pricey, but I know I'm going to get a perfect job from them. I'm also looking at JGY who has much cheaper pricing and lastly am open to any suggestions from you all.
I am not looking for any assembly, just a place to have the crank micropolished, check the main seal contact areas for wear and fix if possible, block align-honed and bored w/tq plate, rods re-sized, size rod and main bearings, clean oil and coolant passages, head have a valve job done (and perhaps combustion chamber work? if it's worthwhile on the SR as far as preventing detonation), porting done throughout the ports and port-match/gasket match the intake manifold, both mating surfaces decked: All the standard machine shop items.
Leading me to a few questions besides the main one: Who would you reccomend for SR20 machine work for cost-effectiveness (not utter cheapness.)
1. The 'rebuildable' crank's rear main seal contact area is worn and needs to be fixed or speedy-sleeved. I'm not too fond of the idea of speedi-sleeving a brand new engine, so how could that be repaired and any idea on cost? Build up babbit material on the journal?
2. How cost effective is combustion chamber cleanup work on the SR? Deshrouding the valves, removing quench area. On some engines there are huge gains in mechanical octane by properly modifying the combustion chamber. I'd like to boost the shit out of this thing when it gets done :coolugh: and if I can lower the knock threshold with some machine work then I'm for it.
3. Stock rods with ARP rod bolts, checked and bored for out-of-round, or Eagle rods with included ARP bolts, checked and bored for out-of-round? 400hp is the max power goal 'right now'.
4. Anything else I should be looking at? Other machine shops, things I should be buying, things I should have done?
5. Would anybody want a toast head casting and toast block casting to dick around with?
Thanks for all your help.