Well Im stupid, Hooked up jumper cables backwards. DOH!!

[Tearlessj]

I was doing a Walbro fuel pump on my car (SR). When everything was hooked up, I tried to jump the car. But being my dumbass self I reversed the power cables and tried to crank it a few times. Now my car wont start and only cranks. I do not get any spark. I already replace the Alt. fuse. Any ideas?

[Sileighty_85]

Look for fried gounds

I know there is an important one under the fuse box in the engine bay

[pbcstylez]

check all your fuses, u fried more than one thas for sure what else is not working electronically?

[bo2o]

you already replaced your grey fuse?

do you even hear you pump running?
and no spark? meng you might of toasted your ecu.

[kuruptR]

iv blown 75a fuses a few times.. you can tell if its gone is if the fuel pump goes, but the clock on your dash doesnt work.

[rps13drift]

I would check your ecu dude! Make sure it lights up in the on position

[Tearlessj]

Yea the ECU lights up in the on position just fine. The fuel pump is working, I know because I unhooked the line and it shot gas all in my eye. I checked all the fuses near the battery and they seem to be fine.

[landins13]

check your ignitor ,if you jumped have no power no spark its the ignitor or ecu, its almost impossible for you to fry every coil at once so you either damaged your ignitor or ecu

[Tearlessj]

Ughhhhhhhhhh, I hope its not the ECU. I was borrowing it from somebody. SHIT!

[singlecamslam]

uh oh, borrowing shit sucks. Hmmm so the only thing is its not getting spark? Maybe a relay is fried too... I would try to borrow another ecu and check.

[aNskY]

check your ignitor


win.


do it.

you can get a q45 ignitor from a junkyard for pennies, and there is a wiring diagram on HT.

[koukimonster139]

im almost positive sr ecu has diode protection or a safety relay to keep current moving the right direction

fusibled link or ignitor or something? they're delicate.
hmmm

[Tearlessj]

Yea Im going to replace my ignitor, I have a extra one laying around just gatta wire it in., Hopefully thats it. Is there a way if I can check if my ignitor is blown?

[aNskY]

there is a continuity test in the FSM if you have a multimeter.

[koukimonster139]

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g210/driftgay/ignitor2.gif


here go

[illvialuver]

i just had this problem with my ka swap. i blew the ecu. open up your ecu and look for little black marks all over everything.
i checked out my fuses and relays and everything else and nothing just the ecu. so thats all i am waiting on.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/207458-finally-my-cars-resurrection-should-weekend.html

[Tearlessj]

I dont know if I did it right, but I set the Multimeter to the thing where if the two prongs are touching it will beep. I put one prong on the E, and the other on A,B,C,D. There was no beep, so no connection. So I did the test properly right? Or am I doing something totally wrong?

[koukimonster139]

your checking for continuity (ohms)
set it to ohms

the first test is going to be with positive(red) probe on the (e) pin and the negative(black) on the #1 pin= there should be no continuity

then you reverse this test with negative probe on the (e) and positive on the 1 = here there should be continuity, or in your case, a beep.

[Tearlessj]

your checking for continuity (ohms)
set it to ohms

the first test is going to be with positive(red) probe on the (e) pin and the negative(black) on the #1 pin= there should be no continuity

then you reverse this test with negative probe on the (e) and positive on the 1 = here there should be continuity, or in your case, a beep.
I set it to the continuity setting. and ran it through all the possible settings. Theres is no continuity at all.

One thing I don't get is, why does it matter which prongs touch where? If were checking for continuity why does it matter if I use the red/black then work if I black/red? Hmmmm

[koukimonster139]

switching the polarity reverses the flow of current generated by the meter, moving through the ignitor

when operating, the ignitor has current flowing both ways, therefore you have to test all these functions


if you performed all the tests in the illustration, I would say you need a new ignitor.

[Tearlessj]

Thanks a lot man, your info is helping big time. I ran all the possible test and nothing. Im going to change out my Ignitor tomorrow and see what happens.

O shit 1,000 post! YAYYYYY!!!

[koukimonster139]

no problem.

lemme know what happens, hope this solves your issue

i may have a spare, operating, ignitor. ill check

[Tearlessj]

Well I wired up my Q45 ignitor and it starts, BUT runs like complete ass. It barely revs up, takes forever. Shakes really bad. Now Im thinking I could have hooked up the ignitor wrong. So does this mean the ECU is ok, since it kinda runs?

[aNskY]

you probably miswired one coil output, therefore running on 3 cylinders.

[steve shadows]

There is a 75 AMP Grey Fusible Link in the main fuse box on all nissan s chasis (or similar) it is usually labeled as the ALT fuse, make sure the link is not burnt out. This sounds to me to be the issue.

[C. Anderson]

There is a 75 AMP Grey Fusible Link in the main fuse box on all nissan s chasis (or similar) it is usually labeled as the ALT fuse, make sure the link is not burnt out. This sounds to me to be the issue.

He said he already replaced the Alt. fuse. Im with aNskY on this one.

[koukimonster139]

Well I wired up my Q45 ignitor and it starts, BUT runs like complete ass. It barely revs up, takes forever. Shakes really bad. Now Im thinking I could have hooked up the ignitor wrong. So does this mean the ECU is ok, since it kinda runs?


did you test the new maf like you did the old one before you put it on?

it may be wired wrong or may be faulty. it seems to be an ignition problem from here out

i think your ecu is fine

[Tearlessj]

Alright, Driving my integra so much has made me somewhat more motivated to work on the car now. So heres an update.

New ECU
I have spark on all 4 of the cylinders.
I found 2 grounds that were not hooked up.
Hooked up VC ground.

After doing that I tried starting it. If I crank it and step on the gas all the way. It'll rev up super rough and stop revvng at 4000rpm very slowly. It wont run if I don't press on the gas all the way. After I turned it off I heard a hissing sound coming out of the fuel inlet hose. This makes me think that the problem lies with the fuel system. In the blue circled shown below, and the yellow is the 2 grounds I found and hooked up. Also, I have not yet replaced the fuel filter. I doubt it has anything to do with my problem but just though id throw it in there.

http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mg5674up9.jpg

Heres a picture of the 2 grounds I hooked up and the hose that was hissing.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/tearlessj/_MG_5674.jpg

[aNskY]

i dont think the fuel line is hissing, or you would be leaking fuel. probably a leak at your intake manifold which you are mistaking for that line. and that is also probably why you are stumbling and stalling.... leaking metered air.
\

also those grounds are supposed to be seperate... not sure the exact reasoning behind that, just do it ;)

[GSXRJJordan]

Fuel lines can hiss sometimes, especially after they've been depressurized (by him changing the fuel pump), that's not your problem. Those grounds do not have to be separate. Those are weak suggestions.

I would be checking each coil for spark... I'd also check for all grounds (batt to chassis to intake manifold MUST be good), and pin out your harness (there's more than a couple grounds going to the ECU, and if any of those are messed up, your car will run like shit). Does it run any different with the MAF unplugged?

[Deuce40sx]

LOL. remember RED=+ Black is always= -WHen you jump your car, have it hooked up to the battery one side, and ground the Negative. Not recommended go battery to battery, ground is safer.

[Tearlessj]

Fuel lines can hiss sometimes, especially after they've been depressurized (by him changing the fuel pump), that's not your problem. Those grounds do not have to be separate. Those are weak suggestions.

I would be checking each coil for spark... I'd also check for all grounds (batt to chassis to intake manifold MUST be good), and pin out your harness (there's more than a couple grounds going to the ECU, and if any of those are messed up, your car will run like shit). Does it run any different with the MAF unplugged?
Ill be sure to check the grounds again today. How would have any of my grounds have messed up from reversing the cables though? Someone mention fried grounds earlier but I didnt understand.

[GSXRJJordan]

Ground leads are not as well insulated or as big as +12v leads, and current is not designed to flow in that direction, so it puts extra strain on everything. It's completely possible that the grounds inside your engine harness have lost their connection or have intermittent connection.

[HS13KLS]

that sounds like my car...

i think my car had an ignitor problem too.. :/
i just never reversed my battery cables

[Tearlessj]

Ground leads are not as well insulated or as big as +12v leads, and current is not designed to flow in that direction, so it puts extra strain on everything. It's completely possible that the grounds inside your engine harness have lost their connection or have intermittent connection.
Ahhh gotcha. Im ganna check the grounds off my engine harness for continuity between the lines and the chassis. Thanks for the help man, hopefully i can solve this soon.

[Tearlessj]

Its been a while, but I put up a video of the current situation im in.

YouTube - SR20DET problems (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYctP6WCebc)

[speed_racerx]

have you checked to see if your injectors are working properly? just a thought. my car sounded like your recently and found out that it was because of my #4 injector. it was going out, but i replaced it now and its back to normal..

again. its just a thought

[lflkajfj12123]

lol that video makes me laugh

knock knock knock knock knock

[tt99ol]

sounds like only maybe 2 of your cylinders arent firing
check for spark but you probably just wired the ignitor wrong
and switched 2 cylinders
do a power balance test and switch the 2 with no change

[weshole]

It's definitely a miss of some sort. Like t99ol said, check the ignitor wiring. The firing order is either off or you have one dead cylinder. The latter is actually what it sounds like to me basing it off the video clip.

[Tearlessj]

OK well I tested for spark today, all of the cylinders are sparking. I did notice on cylinders 3 and 4, the spark plugs were fairly clean. On 1 and 2 they were blackish. They all did get spark though, maybe the firing order is wrong. Does anyone have a diagram for the Q45 ignitor so I can double check it?

Whats a good way to check if im getting fuel to all the cylinders?

[sbc]

If you have a spare injector plug that one into the harness and watch for fuel. Repeat 4 times.

[Tearlessj]

If you have a spare injector plug that one into the harness and watch for fuel. Repeat 4 times.
so I take a spare injector plug, hook it with a 12 volt power source. Then plug it on each injector and look for fuel? Do I take out the spark plug and look down into the cylinder?

[theronin]

ive got a couple ecu's layin around. dunno if their s13 or s14, if you end up needing one we can discuss identifying them and getting one of them to ya. lmk man

[sbc]

Never mind sorry. Ignore me.

[flip3d]

Are all of your injectors clicking? They have a very distinct sound. Can't miss it.

[Tearlessj]

Well guys, I finnaly got it to run right. It was my ignitor being wired wrong. It runs now, but super rich. Smoke everywhere when it runs. Now onto that. lol