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View Full Version : Ebrake lite & cornering (again)


JasonNagra
12-30-2002, 08:51 PM
Okay I'm sorry if I made a mod mad or anything, its just that I cant find my old post, and apparently dousan36 replied to my post because thats what it said in my email notification and when I clicked on that link, it opened up a completely different post. I also searched for 20 minutes.

So anyway my question is concerning my 91 240 5 spd. Lately every time I corner hard, my ebrake lite comes on for a few seconds and then turns off a second or two after I'm done taking the turn. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening or how I could fix this? Thanks everyone, Jason.

KingKong8247
12-30-2002, 08:55 PM
Hey, its probably your brake fluid swooshing to the side and the sensor in there going off telling the light to come on cuz it thinks you have low brake fluid. That happened to me before but I had a slow leak and had no idea what it meant cuz when i turned that would happen. So just fill up your brake fluid if ya need to.

JasonNagra
12-30-2002, 09:01 PM
Hmmm, I'll try that. Has anyone else had this problem or any ideas? Thanks, Jason.

ca18guy
12-30-2002, 09:12 PM
Originally posted by JasonNagra
Hmmm, I'll try that. Has anyone else had this problem or any ideas? Thanks, Jason.
Just do what kingkong said and it will be fine. Mine does the same thing.

mrmephistopheles
12-30-2002, 11:52 PM
Ditto. I think your thread was just lost with the rest of the 12 hours' worth of threads that Mark accidentally made disappear. I had a thread disappear too.

Edit: check for leaks at the bottom of your master cylinder. This could be an early sign your M/C is failing. Mine leaked for a good year before it finally went. One day I got in my car, pressed the brake, and didn't stop, even though the pedal was on the floor. I recommend having another M/C ready to replace it if it starts leaking badly. Also keep in mind that leaking brake fluid chews up the paint it touches.

Kevin

HippoSleek
12-31-2002, 07:01 AM
... but keep in mind that brakes are a closed hydraulic system. If the fluid is low, there is a reason (either worn bads (bad) or a leak (worse)).

JasonNagra
12-31-2002, 10:56 PM
Thanks everyone for all your help.

gman240
01-01-2003, 05:26 PM
I had a question about the ebrake light coming on as well. I notice sometimes it is on when I first start the car up and after a few minutes of driving it goes out.

HippoSleek
01-02-2003, 07:28 AM
James -
you'll notice there were two scenarios in the section of my post you quoted: 1) worn pads and 2) a leak.

I also disagree w/ your assessment of the fix. Worn pads should be replaced. Simply topping off the resevoir may lead to forgetting to worry about the pads until it is too late. While most squeal, many (especially aftermarket) pads do not. Your first notice of wear is grinding rotors. In fact, the best way to know the condition of your brakes at all times is to NEVER add fluid to your resevoir.

Dousan_PG
01-02-2003, 10:51 AM
i agree w/ hipposleek

my thoughts:

i once had the brake light come on. i replaced the pads (rears) and the light went away.

the pad was put in improperly (how i got it). and the pads didnt squeal too.

i've never seen that light come on when it shouldnt now.

mine came on during corners too. and it wasnt low brake fluid!

HippoSleek
01-02-2003, 12:24 PM
Originally posted by James
hey Hippo,

Worn pads should be replaced.....
BUT you're speculating the pads are worn.
Topping off may lead to forgetting........
you're speculating this guy is a moron.
Most brake pads squeal........
if you have aftermarket pads I speculate you would be smart enough to check them.

Just stick to the facts:
brake light comes on on corners= low brake fluid
=fill brake fluid.
Not rocket science- and I gave reasons why it's not a big deal.
Now if you want to create more scenarios to make yourself sound smart= you have a complex.
"Keep it simple stupid."

[edit]
There's a reason it's an idiot light and not a gauge - you don't just add fluid willy-nilly to make it go away. The light means check out the system and fix the problem, not fill it and forget it. There are scenarios where a pad won't squeal before bad things happen (e.g., broken tab, no tab, tab bent at installation, seized caliper, etc.), as noted by dousan. Again - a light means investigate not avoid. Now James, for the THIRD time, I ask you to go back and read my first post that mentioned two/2/II reasons fluid would be low and not more - if it isn't the pads, it is a worse problem of a leak.

AKADriver
01-02-2003, 03:40 PM
I just don't understand your logic at all. Why would you top off the brake fluid in that situation instead of replacing the pads or fixing the leak which is the actual problem? Fix the cause, not the symptom. Topping off the fluid will only result in wasted fluid when he installs new pads or fixes the leak which is the real problem. Pointless. You're suggesting, basically, that he add fluid to make the light go away and wait for something worse to happen. That's... stupid.

DSC
01-02-2003, 03:46 PM
Only reason he should add fluid is if the resoviar wasn't full when the pads were new. Assuming this is true, the only reason the light is on is because the reasons hippo said. Well that or the sensor is damaged or the e-brake is sticking, but those would be rare and not worth mentioning as a 1st step.

Adding fluid is a bad idea, ask anybody and they will tell you the same...again assuming it was full when the pads were new.

If he fills it up, how do you expect him to know when to change pads? He can wait till he hears grinding or he can check every week. But the better idea would be to just change them now, or ignore the light for the next month untill the pads are worn more and then change them.

Light is on, add fluid to make it go off. This works but is the worst possible way to make the light go off next to taking the bulb out.

Dousan_PG
01-02-2003, 04:16 PM
Originally posted by James

So no one understands the concept that when the pads wear- the caliper/piston contains more fluid- and that the level goes down?
And this does not mean to automatically replace the pads- there can still be sufficient life in the pads and have this symptom come up. ---REAL LIFE EXPERIENCE COMING INTO PLAY HERE, FOLKS--
No one has installed new brake pads- pushed the piston back in- and had excess brake fluid (overflowing) in the brake resevoir?
Making any headway here?


nope never had that issue. i've replaced my pads 3 times (front and rears) and never overflowed. infact, i've never had to refill my reservior ever (except bleeding brakes).

might just be you.
hm.

Dousan_PG
01-02-2003, 04:20 PM
no but i've worked on many different cars of my own and my families and friends. never had that issue.
from honda, nissan, chevy and dodge and ford. never had it.

edit: im not calling you a liar. just saying i never had it.
i think if his light was one he should do as you said check the fluid and not RETOP and think Cool done, but instead find out where the leak is, watch it as well. also before quitting for the day also check his brake pads ad see if require replacement.

everyone here is 1/3 right. let's leave it at that.

HippoSleek
01-02-2003, 04:28 PM
[edit]
You speculate that the pads are minorly worn; you speculate that there are no other symptoms; you speculate that they would squeal before needing replacement; you speculate that if they weren't likely to squeal the car's owner would be knowledgable enough to know to check them (despite his coming here for assistance). To the contrary, the rest of the board has said - look at the problem before you try to fix it. Examine the pads. Check for leaks. No speculation, just a simple scientific way of proceding.

[edit]

//flame removal complete

Dousan_PG
01-02-2003, 04:32 PM
"You can't rent here anymore!"

"YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAH!!"

-- 'clerks'

haha..i couldnt resist. good speech. good speech.

Gunburn
01-02-2003, 09:33 PM
WOW, this has to be the coolest thred I have ever read. Zilvia should put this in there "HALL OF FAME"

Good show good show!

DSC
01-03-2003, 12:29 AM
Originally posted by James
Hippo you're one of Zilvia's FINEST!

:) atleast he got something right...

Most guys I meet in repair shops are total dumbasses. I've got into arguements with local shops about suspension tech. I trust people in the legal racing community before I'd trust some repair guy....why because if a racing guy is wrong on brakes, he may very well die.

gschroeder78
01-03-2003, 01:04 AM
James, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that maybe I was reading some of your other posts wrong and you weren't meaning to come off as an ass by telling people they don't know what they're talking about.

I now see I was wrong.


As for the original question, I don't know if this has been mentioned. If so, sorry I missed it.

It seems the "EBrake light problem" is common at least between the 240SX and the 300zx. Both of mine have done it from day one. I've checked everything as far as brake fluid leaks to sensors (cleaning) and have been through a couple pad changes and nothing solved this. Even stranger the light flickers every now and then. I'm conviced it has something to do with bulbs. Since this is the one thing I haven't looked in to. Either the 3rd brake light which is usually the case on the 300ZX or the taillamp bulbs may be the problem. I've been told that they have a resistance sensor which measures resistance to or from the bulbs I mentioned. I'm told if you use aftermarket or "autopart store" bulbs instead of Nissan bulbs this will happen. I don't know how true this is but it might deserve looking in to.

Garrett

mrmephistopheles
01-03-2003, 01:07 AM
Originally posted by Gunburn
WOW, this has to be the coolest thred I have ever read. Zilvia should put this in there "HALL OF FAME"

Good show good show!

I find it unfortunate that this is the coolest 'thred' you've ever read. Useless bickering and pissing contests don't solve any problems and don't provide and meaningful information to anyone.

I appreciate everyone's opinion on the matter of this guy's brakes, but fighting over hypothetical outcomes and courses of action is useless.

The BEST course of action (imho) is to pull off all four wheels, visually inspect the rotors and pads, and inspect all brake lines and the master cylinder for leaks. You will almost always find your problem.

I'm closing this thread. Next time I won't bother with closing it and editing out all the pissing & moaning. I'll just delete it and lose any good information that may have come of it.


Kevin