Running pig rich with z32maf,sard550 and enthalpy ecu.

[mr_240sx]

alright guys.

i installed my z32 maf and sard 550 injectors and got my ecu (s14sr WC) tuned be enthalpy for according mods. now since i got ecu back the car has been running like shit. idle seems ok 14.5-15.1 AFR. now when i rev it in neutral it hits 10.0 and shoots out black shit everywhere. the floor and garage door is covered in this stuff. smells like oil/gas mixed.

now while cruising a constant throttle its bouncing from 14.5-15.1 which i dont really see a problem with that. the thing that bothers me is when i step on the gas a little more (say for going up hills to try and maintain same speed) the afr's hit 10.0. I can hear the turbo (t28) start the spool and as soon as it starts to spool thats when it goes to 10.0 afr. The car hesitates for a bit until the turbo hit full boost (15psi) and then the car takes off but still running pig rich at 10.0.

i double checked all my vacuum hoses and all intercooler pipes and couplers and everything is fine.

my guess is its a bad ecu tune? is that possible? i know people say when you get ecu's chipped they are a bit conservatively tuned but is 10.0 really what i should be getting?

Anyone have any input on what might be the cause.

I'm also debating getting a Apex'i NEO to correct it out. would this be a good idea or is it just a band aid fix to a bigger problem?

[bo2o]

check timing?

ask enthalpy what you should be running?

at what rpm does your afr richen up? maybe they thought u would be boosting already at wot on low rpm.
thus being why its so rich?

[mr_240sx]

well i have a feeling it has to do with high/low throttle settings? because in neutral while slowly revving rpms are fine. only once there is slight load on the car is when it gets pig rich.

i have sent an email to enthalpy so hopefully hear back from him early this week.

i have NOT checked timing as i havent changed it. would it change timing on its own?

[bo2o]

it shouldnt. but maybe your timing was set a lil different on your old set up.

you can try to lean it out a bit by change timing a lil.

you would wana put that on a dyno and log your afr and rpms
and send it back to enthalpy.

[LA_phantom_240]

I know it may sound stupid, because I'm mostly talking out of my ass right now, but maybe the TPS is effing up?

Oh, and x2 on the dyno with AFR vs. RPM.

[FaLKoN240]

I would ask Enthalpy before you start messing with the tune...

[mr_240sx]

any way to test the TPS other than buying a new one?

ill wait to hear abck from enthalpy and i guess ill go from there. but if enthalpy isnt willing to do anything ill get an AFC NEO and dyno tune it.

[fliprayzin240sx]

His tune is usually rich, he always recommends a SAFC to lean it out a bit. His maps are ballpark and safe (rich) maps since every engine will run differently.

[mr_240sx]

so its normal to be at 10.0?

i currently have an HKS AFR and it corrects AFR's but it doesnt have a HI/Low setting so if i lean it out the car runs really lean while cruising and then fine at full throttle....so maybe time to get AFC NEO/ AFC II

[Blown240sx]

10.0 is not safe its rich. 11.0 is safe, but I tend to tune for 12 a/f even though this seems lean we have a Daily Driven RB25 running 8-10 degrees advanced timing on 16 psi making 369 whp and knock never gets above 13 on the Power FC (being that 60 is detonation knock). Hoping once on 20 psi he should be over 400 whp with just minor bolt ons (Intake Manifold, FMIC, GT3076R, injectors and intake).

[S14DB]

so its normal to be at 10.0?

i currently have an HKS AFR and it corrects AFR's but it doesnt have a HI/Low setting so if i lean it out the car runs really lean while cruising and then fine at full throttle....so maybe time to get AFC NEO/ AFC II

Did you 0 out the AFR?

[bo2o]

you have one of those one knob hks af controller.

try jus backing it just one.

it hsould help
you will be fine up top. at cruise.

[mr_240sx]

Did you 0 out the AFR?

yes everything is set to 0 right now. when it was running in stock form i had +10% at idle but now everything is at zero.

you have one of those one knob hks af controller.

try jus backing it just one.

it hsould help
you will be fine up top. at cruise.

i guess ill play around with it...just didnt think id need to with enthalpy tune as my buddy has one and his afr's are perfect across the board. weird.

i guess ill re check timing as well to make sure.

[bigOdom1]

i say its a leak somewhere, intake plenum is possible. btw im in the same boat, except i had a great 550 tune then swapped to 740 and its having an issue. i need the bolts that hold the plenum to the lower runners two short one long thats where i think my problem is the long one didn't bite when i tightened it and im scared to look. :p

[steve shadows]

Take the piggy back off your car completely.

Then drive it.

If it's still screwed up, then it's the TUNE

[mifesto]

His tune is usually rich, he always recommends a SAFC to lean it out a bit. His maps are ballpark and safe (rich) maps since every engine will run differently.

wow thats polar opposite of what majority on zilvia feels, that enthaply's tune shouldnt need safc adjustment at all. i actually agree those mail tunes arent so great since its an off-the-shelf tune without any consideration to YOUR car.

[fliprayzin240sx]

wow thats polar opposite of what majority on zilvia feels, that enthaply's tune shouldnt need safc adjustment at all. i actually agree those mail tunes arent so great since its an off-the-shelf tune without any consideration to YOUR car.


Wanna know why im the polar opposite? Cuz I actually went with his rom tune when 70% of people who talk about his tunes have never actually went thru Scott. Rom tunes are kool and dandy but in my experience, is a band-aid solution that should be fixed with real engine management (PFC, stand-alone). Im not knocking on enthalpy, the setup work and did what its supposed to do. You just get to a certain point when a rom tune just isnt enough. If i go rom tune again...i'll definitely come back to scott, just this time, im bringing my car with the ECU to him. Dyno and Rom tune is the only way it can be done right...

[mr_240sx]

well today is looking promising....

starting taking off my intake manifold thinking it was leaking from there until i removed my cold pipe. the welds that i had gotten done have fallen apart. when looking into hte pipe and having a flashlight on the outside of the pipe i could clearly see some light through the welds. hopefully thats all it is. time to go run in town and get that pipe re welded.

[mr_240sx]

well got the cold pipe back and stil lthe same symptoms.

so heres some engine bay pics....hopefully someone can spot something obvious that im not seeing.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_009-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_011.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_012.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_014-3.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_019-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_020-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_021.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_022.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/IMAGE_023.jpg

[mr_240sx]

ok so me and Matt M were brainstorming over msn and come to this conclusion.....

car was running fine until the intake pipe collapsed. when it was running fine it was with NO FILTER ( only a stocking on the MAF)

so i decided to go back out testing it in the same conditions and yes its good! :rockon:

well sort of. idle really bounces all over the place which it did before without the filter anyways. but WOT with 0% correction on the AFR controler i was seeing numbers all the way to 13.0 so i layed off the gas. pulled over and added 25% fuel and then went for another run. this run i was seeing number at 10.8. so my guess ill need something like 10-20% correction so i dont lean out on the top end.

now here is the culprit. its the MAF adapter. it never clued in when i picked it up. notice the inside is squared off so its blocking off air flow. so now i gotta manage a way to cut the inside part out. youll see the left one is a stock sr maf adapter and the one on the right is the one i was using. the reason i wasnt using the other one is because it was different bolt pattern and from he red 240. so i think ill redrill the other one to fit until i figure a way to cut out the inside and then try the one thats cut out with the filter to see how it is.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y172/mr_240sx/Project%20Y/Picture7-1.jpg

[S14DB]

Boost leak check time.

[mr_240sx]

pm sent....



,

.

[S14DB]

I say toss that filter and both those stamped crap maf adapters. Get a nice Cast or Machined Z32 adapter and a new filter.

Still would pressure test the whole system.

[mr_240sx]

im going to run into ottawa before the weekend and try to locate an apex'i filter and then ill see how it runs and go from there....but i will try doing a pressure test for sure.


but honestly whats teh difference in a stamped crap adapter and a cast/machined? all it has to do is hold the filter in place right?

[mr_240sx]

well heres an update.

ive been out of town since thursday. well all i could find in stock was a no name filter ( similar to ractive) and with that on the idle is fine but the aem eugo is off the map lean. i had to use 10-15% more fuel to make it idle near 14.5.

now with 0% correction under wot i saw 13.4 so i let off the gas. ive added 5% and i saw 13.1 and as i made it up the rpm's it kept dropping to roughly 12.3 near 7250.

im feeling confident in the setup and the way it runs that i will go to the track tomorrow and throw it sideways while doing turnouts!

just to be on hte safe side i will bump it up to 10% correction and i should be good.


i will save up my pennies to get a PFC.

[mr_240sx]

well after shaving that maf adapter it seems to have solved all my issues....go figure thats all it was.