PDA

View Full Version : sr20det bogging issues


bwake 5
03-20-2008, 11:18 PM
i have a s14 motor in my s13 chasis......

when i accelerate it bogs out when i start getting into boost....i can drive it smooth and really slow as long as i dont accelerate at any decent speed and start building boost....

things i have done....

-checked for boost leake(none)
-checked iacv valve.....clean
-new fuel pump
-new fuel filter
-i changed out my s13 soch maf with another s13 good soch maf and it seemd to not run as good for some reason......idk.....

i cant think of anything else to do......idk what the deal is........any ideas?

duffman1278
03-20-2008, 11:38 PM
How did you check for boost leaks? Did you clean the IACV with carb cleaner or something? Have you checked your vacuum lines for any leaks? Whats your vacuum reading at?

Make sure all your coils are throwing out spark, and that all your injectors are working.
Also check to see if your flooding any of the cylinders. I had this issue and I was flooding my engine pretty bad, I shorted out my 2nd cylinder injector on the ECU which caused it to bog badly.

bwake 5
03-21-2008, 12:23 AM
i just sprayed soapy water on all my couplers and flange.......

i didnt clean out the iacv but when it took it off it didnt look bad at all

vaccuum is at 18

i need to check for injector leak.......dont really know how

duffman1278
03-21-2008, 12:36 AM
First try pulling the spark plugs and checking if your pistons are wet. Vacuum seems fine so thats good. I suggest trying to clean the IACV regardless, looks can be deceiving. After that try testing to see if the injectors are leaking.

bwake 5
03-21-2008, 12:54 AM
im thinking its the injectors........so most likely the o-rings?

if it is the o-rings does any auto parts place carry such things?

really tryin to make it to a drift event tommorow so kinda stressin out hahaa

duffman1278
03-21-2008, 01:22 AM
Umm, I think the KADE's should be the same o-rings but I'm not completly sure. One of the o-ring nissan part numbers is this

16618-10V05 -O-RING HOU UPR

I bought that one, and the lower one for my SR injectors and they worked fine, but I got it from west covina nissan, I'm pretty sure the KA and SR ones are the same.

flip3d
03-21-2008, 03:28 PM
+1 for injector leak. west covina nissan is probably the best place to get small oem parts like those o-rings. they always have stuff in stock and they ship fast. i literally drove to all the nissan dealers in orlando today and i only managed to find 4 of the lower o-rings.

Air
03-24-2008, 11:02 AM
I think i may be having a similar issue

I have a stock s13 SR with a walboro 255 pump in a 93 coupe

when the car first cranks up it runs great. I can floor it and get full boost and no hesitation or anything.

after it warms up though, the car starts to act funky.

if i sit in neutral and rev it up, it starts to bog as soon as it gets go equalized pressure. Bog might not be the right word, perhaps Miss is better. if i rev up slowly and keep it in vacuum, it starts to misfire around 5-6k

when driving, it starts to bog or miss as soon as it gets near boost. ITs really hard to drive anywhere because of this. if i keep in the throttle it wolnt "die", but it returns to near equal pressure and the car has no power to move, even though i am full throttle. Other times if i get in the gas it keeps reving up but it bucks and hesitates as it goes. Meaning it builds boost and the car drives but it isnt a smooth acceleration.

the funniest thing is, if i shut the car off after it starts to do this, then immediately turn it back on (5-10 seconds later), i can get a good pull with no hesistation or bucking. After that though, its back to normal.

I checked the wastegate to see if it was actuating when the car was "hesitating" under full throttle. the actuator arm doesnt move.

I changed the sparkplugs and it still happens.

im looking for some injector o-rings so i can try that method, but im not so sure its causing the problem.

I also thought about it being a bad coilpack, but those are expensive

i dont know alot about the "ignitor" but could this cause the issue?

I have 2 sr mafs, but it does this with either one. Could i have 2 bad mafs?

my turbo blows alittle oil. Its not bad, it doesnt smoke while running, but you can see it in the intake tubes. Could a turbo going out casue this?

I have the stock recirc valve.. coudl the BOV be releasing when not necessary? this would explain the bucking under load and when getting into boost, but not the slight misfiring in neutral.

For some reason my car builds boost in neutral as well.. i dont know if this is a SR thing but my understanding is that turbos usually dont spool unless there is load on the engine.

finally, someone suggested that my coolant temp sensor could be going out. My dash gauge works, but they said it could be going bad anyways.

i dont know if we have an identical problem, but they sound eerily similar.

-chris

nu2drift240
03-24-2008, 11:20 PM
I'm new to this site. I'm a mechanic and i do allot of diagnostics. First your vacuum is too hi should be between 10 and 15 psi at idle. Second I think that you might have a bad fuel pump or maybe you have rust in your tank that your strainer is picking up and clogging. What you need to do is get a fuel pressure reading. At idle the car should have between 30 to 50 psi of fuel pressure. As you accelerate the fuel pressure should rise between 60 and 70 psi. If the fuel pressure drops when you accelerate your fuel pump is bad (weak) or your strainer is clogging up with rust or junk. I've seen weak fuel pumps alot on high performance engines do this.

duffman1278
03-25-2008, 01:08 AM
^^^^ Um wrong about vacuum, 18 is just fine, thats what it should be at between 17-20. Also, the fuel pressure should be at like 40psi when you turn the key all the way WITHOUT turning on the car.

iwishiwas-all*
03-26-2008, 05:01 PM
"
when driving, it starts to bog or miss as soon as it gets near boost. ITs really hard to drive anywhere because of this. if i keep in the throttle it wolnt "die", but it returns to near equal pressure and the car has no power to move, even though i am full throttle. Other times if i get in the gas it keeps reving up but it bucks and hesitates as it goes. Meaning it builds boost and the car drives but it isnt a smooth acceleration.

the funniest thing is, if i shut the car off after it starts to do this, then immediately turn it back on (5-10 seconds later), i can get a good pull with no hesistation or bucking. After that though, its back to normal.

I checked the wastegate to see if it was actuating when the car was "hesitating" under full throttle. the actuator arm doesnt move.
"

I have this EXACT SAME PROBLEM.. EXACT.. can someone help us out?

shifts13
03-26-2008, 05:45 PM
had the same problem as you guys...checked for boost leak, vacuum leak etc, but it was just a loose hose clamp on my intakeright after the MAF so check your intake hose!

nu2drift240
03-26-2008, 11:27 PM
^^^^ Um wrong about vacuum, 18 is just fine, thats what it should be at between 17-20. Also, the fuel pressure should be at like 40psi when you turn the key all the way WITHOUT turning on the car.


You might be right on the vacuum but, on fuel pressure you are wrong, If the guy was working on a n/a engine that would be the case but he is not. If I'm not mistaken most people don't just put a sr engine in a car without some kind of upgrades. I know i wouldn't... Plus he is working on a turbo engine that needs alot of fuel to work properly, thus you will have more fuel pressure. Look man three things it could be.... fuel pressure, injectors, or the ignitor has a loose conection or just shorting out. If you don't have a good enviroment for the fuel or fire.. the engine will run like crap... you never know it might be something simple that you are just over looking like a bad conection on one of the wires or it could be a bad ground... If nothing else just take it to a shop that knows something about these engines and pay the 50.00 dollar check out fee and fix it yourself. Its hard to fix a problem over the net so let a auto mechanic look at it thats what we get paid for. good luck with the car!!

japslapsilvia
03-27-2008, 07:54 PM
pull the codes on the ecu...i had a similar problem and turns out that the knock sensor was cracked....kept pulling timing and put ecu in limp mode...

Air
04-05-2008, 03:27 PM
bump. anyone make any progress on this issue?

tykon
04-07-2008, 09:30 PM
bump, any progress?

MADE
04-07-2008, 09:48 PM
Is your engine stock or did you recently change anything?

theracingbean
04-09-2008, 10:22 PM
I had this problem two separate times on my sr and both times it turned out to be a boost leak, once the plug and popped off my lower hotpipe where the stock "bov" connected, and the other time my turbo elbow gasket was leaking. I had these exact symptoms, car would idle fine and i could drive it if I didnt build any boost, as soon as i did it would sputter and buck, check anywhere there could possibly be a boost leak

bwake 5
04-14-2008, 08:05 PM
Well I Fixed My Problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My Plug To The Alternator Wasnt Giving It Power......i Was Only Getting 11.9 Volts While My Car Was Running.....while Running You Should Get Around 13.3-13.9 Volts.......once I Got The Alternator Plug Fixed It Was Giving Me Full Volts And No Problems What So Ever......my Car Now Runs Amazing....check Your Alternator Grounds And Your Alternator Plug......see What Your Volts Are When The Car Is Running As Well............

Sideways_blksr20
10-21-2008, 10:07 PM
have a similar problem the car it's hard to start it will start and idle perfect but after it warms up I would Sri e it fine but when I let go of the gas t stop the idle would drop down to 200 almost stall one time I brake hard and the car stall on me."
Btw I have a s14 black top in my s13

KiLLeR2001
10-22-2008, 03:23 AM
I'm pretty sure the KA and SR ones are the same.

I don't think they are the same. I bought '96 300zx TT o-rings for my SR injectors and those have worked out fine for me thus far.

Sideways_blksr20
10-22-2008, 08:16 PM
how did u fix the plug from the alternator
I also notice that when iturn on my headlights my idle will drop a bit

Sideways_blksr20
10-28-2008, 08:45 PM
anyone?????????

duffman1278
10-28-2008, 09:53 PM
Turn on you're headlights = idle drop? Possibly something along the lines of a not so good ground?

Sideways_blksr20
10-28-2008, 11:17 PM
also when I hit boost and let go on the gas to stopat a red light it will almost stall but then goes back to normal

smokestr240
04-15-2011, 04:35 PM
i know this thread is old but did anyone figure anything else out on this im having the same problem its driving me nutts!

rmc4au
06-22-2014, 11:45 PM
Bump. Having similar issues.

12 ish on the wideband at WOT (tuned for 12.5 ish). 0 vacuum leaks. SR, Z32 maf, 550's, isis 3871, Freddy intake.

Low idle when first starting up (cold), and if I don't touch the throttle, it takes about 5 to 10 seconds to wake up and go to 1500. Vacuum is between 16-17.

I'm getting fuel obviously. Known good coil packs, brand new wiring specialties harness, known good igniter, known good CAS, not throwing any codes.

rmc4au
06-23-2014, 03:20 PM
Motor is in time 15 degrees BTDC. Cam timing is correct as well.

quickdiversion
06-23-2014, 07:01 PM
Hey here's a question. When did this start?
Did it start after drifting or practicing?
How low is your car?

You might want to check under your fenders and see if you chewed up your harness.
It has been know to happen and make things screwy like this. Pull your fenders and check your wiring.

Just my $.02