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View Full Version : EGI relay buzzing... car DOES start... kinda...


fc3s kit
02-18-2008, 04:32 PM
After searching "EGI buzzing" and finding a bunch of threads where cars don't start, I couldn't quite find one that matched mine. I have a 93 KA auto. Here's the problem.

I'll try to start the car and without doubt, it will fail. The EGI relay will then buzz for several minutes. If I try to start the car while it's still buzzing, it'll still fail, but once the buzzing stops, the car will start up just fine.

I tried swapping out the relay and after 3 others, I figure that isn't the problem. I just want to know why it's buzzing and if there's anything I can do about it.

My car also has an inconsistent idle (I figure I have to clean out the IAVC), what I think is a timing guide rattle (nothing major, right?), and the sync's on 1st and 2nd might be going out (I think that explains the tranny's hesitation to get into/out of gear at low speeds, which is annoying, but nothing I can really do anything about). Just thought I'd mention those in case anything might be related.

fukdishiet
02-18-2008, 05:01 PM
buy a new relay.

Z U L8R
02-18-2008, 11:17 PM
you need your ka auto lower harness that came with ur car. whatever lower harness you're using is missing the little squarish red plug that plugs in kind of on the side of the fuse/relay box towards the bottom. go look, you'll see what i'm talking about.

Dave =]

fc3s kit
02-19-2008, 06:59 AM
Near as makes no difference 5 am right now, so I'll check it out later in the morning. What does that red plug do?

Slidin240Wayz
02-19-2008, 08:05 AM
Clean and tighten your grounds.

Z U L8R
02-19-2008, 12:29 PM
the red plug has some some crap on it, i really didn't wanna fry anything so i resolved it quickly. on a wiring problem, if i know something's jacked up i typically correct it asap before residual consequences come to pass.

on a side note do your instrument lights stay on as well? like as soon as you turn the key to the start position then take the key out, the light's will still be on?

anyways,

SILENCE!!!!



i keel u ^_^ >_> ^_^

use your original lower harness that came with the car
kk
Dave =]

Skaterjunky8
03-04-2008, 09:43 PM
i got the same problem something is draining the battery over night. Mine is on a sohc 89 with a 5 speed swap, never did this before. anyone find a fix? My lights inside dont stay on except for the battery light stays on. Alternator works and charges the battery fine

slider2828
03-04-2008, 11:23 PM
I just learned this over the weekend. Take a voltage meter and keep your car off. Remove your negative wire from the negative teminal of your battery. Put the voltage meter between that wire and the terminal and turn the voltage meter it to .000 dc. Anything between .045 and .025 is normal draw. Anything over, you have a major draw. You can locate this draw by pulling one fuse at a time all and putting them back. Any drop in your out of range voltage means that draw is coming from there and there is your short. So there you go, happy hunting.

motonagam
03-05-2008, 12:55 AM
I just learned this over the weekend. Take a voltage meter and keep your car off. Remove your negative wire from the negative teminal of your battery. Put the voltage meter between that wire and the terminal and turn the voltage meter it to .000 dc. Anything between .045 and .025 is normal draw. Anything over, you have a major draw. You can locate this draw by pulling one fuse at a time all and putting them back. Any drop in your out of range voltage means that draw is coming from there and there is your short. So there you go, happy hunting.

The procedure you described just measures voltage drop between the wire and the battery terminal. In order to check for draws, you need to check for amperage, not voltage.

slider2828
03-05-2008, 02:11 AM
You are testing teh negative wires only..... if the draw or short is bad enough, the voltage will climb...

jilo
03-05-2008, 10:15 AM
think that problems odd? i pulled the fuel pump relay and tried to crank the engine to releive fuel pressure, so i could swap an injector on my girls 94 vert. it shorted the main harness somewhere in the engine bay, which can be controlled by removing the "grey fusible link" or doing a few other things.

the short is so bad that i can have a battery with 12v in it, fully charged, and when i plug it in it will drop to 3v in very little time. as far as i can remember, it flows about an amp or so of current. that means there is jack shit fro resistance between power and ground.

my next step is to remove the chassis harness for the engine bay and look all throughout it.
i have tested all all fuses and relay's and they are all good. the ignition switch is tested good, the ecu's power and ground supply wires tested fine, although they didnt have power, just no shorts.
the car can also make the relay's buzz like the other guy.

anyone know a really good way to pinpoint shorts, in a big harness, where you cant see them?

slider2828
03-05-2008, 11:58 AM
The steps that I told you man.... Why ask when the question was answered two posts above.

Skaterjunky8
03-05-2008, 04:26 PM
Is your car dropped? have you looked in your wheel wells for rubbing wires?

jilo
03-05-2008, 07:06 PM
The steps that I told you man.... Why ask when the question was answered two posts above.

trust me, that test isnt going to do shit for me. i already know what circuit the short is in. if i remove the grey fusible link in the relay box, the shit dissapears. but if its unplugged and i turn on the key itll short out agin through somewhere else. it acts as though it has two shorts.

i went to school for automotives and i cant figure it out. this is why i need to take the harness out, unwrap it, and inspect it for damage.

also the car isnt dropped its at stock height. it ran fine before i pulled the fuel pump relay and cranked the car.
this is my girlfriends car ive been referring to. i also have a 93 coupe. basically same car. i did the same thing to mine and it did the same shit. although mine was intermittant and it came back after getting kicked. not a good way to fix it since i cant tell what actually was fixed.

main question is what circuit gets overloaded when a relay gets pulled and the car is cranked

fc3s kit
03-14-2008, 04:29 PM
well, im working on the car now and now i have no spark or fuel pressure and the injectors arent firing when i turn the distributor. the relay has stopped the buzzing altogether as well.

ive checked the grounds, relays, fuses, and fuel pump and theyre all good. what else should i check?


this may be a dumb question, but if theres very little fuel pressure, will the injectors not fire?

fc3s kit
03-14-2008, 08:31 PM
okay i finally found it. the wire from the ignition coil to the ecu was shorting in the harness.

slider2828
03-15-2008, 01:34 AM
Well its just a general way to get a better general idea of where the short might be.... To find out exactly, its nearly impossible until you pull it out... No easy way around it. You can also look at a wiring diagram and start probing the wireloom as well...

Skaterjunky8
03-15-2008, 09:24 PM
okay i finally found it. the wire from the ignition coil to the ecu was shorting in the harness.
lemme guess it was shorted in the wheel well?