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View Full Version : acceleration bogging, help


Illestdrift
08-16-2007, 08:04 PM
So the problem is..

When driving normally, my car idles, and accelerates pretty much normal. but when i get on the gas a little, when it hits around 25-3k it stops accelerating all together, but if i lift off and hit the gas again, its normal.
could it be maf? 02? i have no idea i searched, but nothing was very helpful. im omw to get a new fuel filter to see if thats it, but if that isnt, im fresh out.

Any help would be great!!
]Thanks all

9tb

95240s14
08-16-2007, 08:15 PM
what engine? mods?

Illestdrift
08-16-2007, 09:56 PM
sorry. Stock 92 ka24de, no mods at all

MavericStephenc
08-16-2007, 10:01 PM
could it be electrical....like maf?

edit:check and clean the iacv might help

kafanylovesme
08-16-2007, 10:08 PM
i have the same exact problem....
except i have a kae and no mods but exhaust.
and my idle just drops way down low like 300ish at random times.
i too searched and i found that it could be EGR, which is why my check engine light is on, IACV, MAF, and other stuff. but yeah any other further help is good also.

Illestdrift
08-16-2007, 10:09 PM
maf is a possibility, but i doubt it seeing as it idles, and accelerates normally aside from when i floor it, but my buddy is coming over in a little bit, and im gonna borrow his to see if it is the maf, but has anyone else on here had this problem?

Illestdrift
08-16-2007, 10:11 PM
egr huh, is yours only under hard acceleration too? what is the exact function of the egr?

MavericStephenc
08-16-2007, 10:25 PM
egr (exhaust gas return) simply stated takes exhaust gasses from well the exhaust and reroutes them back through the engine to lower emissions. If i happen to be wrong please correct me

Illestdrift
08-17-2007, 01:10 AM
i think i found the problem... the timing marks are way off (btdc), i think i need to remove the distributor line it up to tdc, the put in the teeth correctly. ill get on with the results!

Illestdrift
08-24-2007, 05:32 PM
runs much better! timing was it, but i have another question... my car came with an unorthodox racing crank pulley, and the fan belt always squeeks, so do i need to get a smaller belt? the ps pump is as tight as it gets!

s13rookie
08-24-2007, 05:54 PM
^^^ you may just need to adjust the tension on the belt

Illestdrift
08-24-2007, 06:50 PM
i did, its as tight as it gets, and its still loose

sccrstar011
08-31-2007, 11:18 PM
Does your fan spin pretty freely? My belts were squeaking when my fan clutch went bad.

93'240sx'hatch
09-01-2007, 01:13 AM
wow ive been having the same problem now i no whats wrong but mine does it even without much acceleration at all

pbcstylez
09-14-2007, 12:50 PM
i would like to say MAF, this has been discussed many times before. search for how to repair the MAF, it takes a total of 15-20 min max, eliminate the easy variables first

DALAZ_68
11-09-2007, 03:14 PM
runs much better! timing was it, but i have another question... my car came with an unorthodox racing crank pulley, and the fan belt always squeeks, so do i need to get a smaller belt? the ps pump is as tight as it gets!


so it was ur crank that was marked rwrong?!....so how did u find TDC, the ghetto crewdriver in sparkplug hole trick??? :-)

cuz my shit is bogging disgusting to the point that i have to keep my foot on the gas at idle or itll drop revs and die...

gonna try TPS i just got...if thats not it, im looking into rebuilding my Intake manifold... since from what ive read in so many f*cking forums... that most of the situation is there... I.E. injectors, EGR, Vaccume leak, TPS/TB,FPR, knock sensor etc...

thats my last choice...ive checked every damn plug, leak tested compression tested... this is ultimate :bs: :wtf:

DALAZ_68
11-10-2007, 02:01 PM
Ok ladies and gents times for some updates

as i said before i and my mech did a air leak test and plugged up a line...

so last night me an him for around 2 hours decided to test censors galore

final findings

temp sensor (red tip) is good even did what nissan FSM recomends and dipped it in boiling water with thermometer...
spark plugs: have what my mech called ''blow by'' and had a white ish tip, which he stated means running lean...
injectors: proper voltage on all four and there all spraying properly...my mech even used a stethescope to hear them and were good
MAf: voltage is good aswell
grounds: good there
timing: right on the money stock setting, weve tried advancing and retarding the f**king thing but nothing + out of that
compression tested: its at Front: 190 190 190 178: rear, which isnt too bad
EGR: got the ebay steel block off and removed EGR assembly...and that actually made the car run worst to the point that i would start it and it would die after 5-10 seconds of being on...



we moved the idle control (adjuster on the rear right side of the engine...) and that did help much...

so we tried combination of TPS and idle control movement still blah


changed the TPS today and still blah