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View Full Version : Friend's widebody coupe w/ s13 sr20det won't start.


opponheimer
06-18-2007, 05:51 AM
I'm posting this for a friend, he may respond on this thread, not sure if he has Zilvia membership.


B.ground Info:

1) S13 sr20det Just Swapped, never run
2) FMIC
3) Exhaust
4) Stock WORKING fuel pump for now
5) Doublechecked wiring


Symptoms:

1) His car starts and has a rough idle, v. similar to a giant boost leak.
2) His motor shakes, then just dies, like its basically choking.


Thing's we've tried:

1) Checked all piping 3x for leaks, none found, (removed and reinstalled piping).
2) Swapped ecus and checked error codes, none found, no fix.
3) Checked wiring, and mafs wiring. His mafs is clean btw.
4) Tried advancing timing a little.
5) Tried putting mafs right at TB to bypass fmic, ran the same.
6) Checked fuel pump.


Anyways, I'm swapping an s14 in the process, so I can't put alot of time into his ca rright now. If any of you have any suggestions please help. On a side note, the motor looks clean, no knocking, strange noises, just wants to die right away. His TPS is way out of adjustment, but even after adjusting it, the car ran the same..

On a side note his car looks damn nice, when he finishes I'll have him post a pic.

nka203
06-18-2007, 02:02 PM
did u ever mess with the distributor? mine did that when it was off by a quarter inch. i took the distributor out, turned it slightly and put back in and it ran like a dream.

crxrookie
06-18-2007, 09:15 PM
did u ever mess with the distributor? mine did that when it was off by a quarter inch. i took the distributor out, turned it slightly and put back in and it ran like a dream.


Just a little info, the motor is a sr20det not a ka. Sr's have a crank angle sensor not a dist.


This is the car the op is talking about , any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance....

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w310/crxrookie/th_MOV00478.jpg (http://s179.photobucket.com/albums/w310/crxrookie/?action=view&current=MOV00478.flv)

crxrookie
06-18-2007, 09:20 PM
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w310/crxrookie/DSC00475.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w310/crxrookie/DSC00476.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w310/crxrookie/DSC00310.jpg

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w310/crxrookie/Photo__16212.jpg

origin_s135
06-18-2007, 09:36 PM
what's with the pics or the s13 silvia front end? the dude is asking us what's wrong with the car. not "hey post up pics of your car" thread.

JayDM s13
06-18-2007, 09:38 PM
i dont know why it wont stay on...but thats a clean setup...nice rims! id like to have that lift system in my garage

gotta240
06-18-2007, 09:39 PM
lol...ass.

The car is the one the OP is asking questions about. Because he posted "widebody" in the title i was just about to demand pics...However, they are already up.

fliprayzin240sx
06-18-2007, 09:52 PM
Did you guys double check the timing? Put the engine in TDC, lift the valve cover, insert the CAS and mate the marks? What kinda spark plugs and gap? Fuel filter swapped? Vacuum lines all good?

timlush
06-18-2007, 09:59 PM
Just because the MAFS is clean, doesn't mean it isn't broken...

iwishiwas-all*
06-18-2007, 10:08 PM
i think ur car is like cuttin out fuel after it starts, thats what it sounds like 2 me. like if u had a kill switch, and the fuel left in the lines started the car and it just slowly died.
i derrno

keith0486
06-18-2007, 10:23 PM
my car would do the same when i put in my nismo fuel pressure regulator and have to adjust the air fuel when i put to much fuel and not enough air it would run for a bit then chock it self. but sense your engine is stock it should be doing that so im just dumb founded on whats going on with it but i would still look at ur fuel pressure see what it is at.

nassin31spr
06-19-2007, 05:04 AM
Did you compression test the motor before putting it in. Check for oil on the spark plugs. You can even try swapping the maf and o2 sensor. Is your ecu throwing any codes.

opponheimer
06-19-2007, 12:13 PM
That is not from o2 sensor.

We are going to swap the mafs and hopefully get a fuel pressure gauge.. I don't believe he's chcked the plugs, but I don't see how compression has anything to do with it.. the car obviously has enough compression to run for 3 seconds.

Enjin
06-19-2007, 12:17 PM
do you smell any fuel?

Enjin
06-19-2007, 12:21 PM
and do you notice any smoke coming from the exhaust when it dies?

nassin31spr
06-19-2007, 05:12 PM
Sometimes the valve cover gasket leaks and will drip oil onto the plugs and you will get massive bucking of the engine. I said you might want to do a compression test to make sure your motor is sound and your not getting blow bye and a bad o2 sensor will also cause the engine to buck back and forth like its trying to jump out of the engine bay.

silverraven240
06-19-2007, 08:03 PM
what about the wire for the maf at the ecm when I got my sr20det the harness already was cut for a apexi safc I would check that really quickly and then go for fuel pressure... then go for that new maf.

opponheimer
06-21-2007, 10:45 PM
Lol somone left me neutral reputation saying "Don't Lie, We Know its Your Car"...



Sorry but the car belongs to crxrookie... If you notice from my other posts, I'm dealing with a swapped s14.

steve shadows
06-22-2007, 10:10 AM
but what doest widebody have to do with anything? haha

unwtdhero
06-22-2007, 10:22 AM
My rb20det did the same, it turned out i wasnt getting power to my fuel pump. You should hear it click on when you hit the ignition. I had to run powe back there and i suggest also getting a walbro 255 just to get "Correct" amounts of fuel.

DOOK
06-22-2007, 10:26 AM
Just because the MAFS is clean, doesn't mean it isn't broken...

truth, very much lots of it

status:one
06-22-2007, 10:28 AM
Sounds like the timing.

Where's the wide body?

Silvia_S13
06-22-2007, 10:51 AM
Sounds like the timing.

Where's the wide body?


i think he means the front...

opponheimer
06-22-2007, 01:34 PM
Update mafs is fine, so its not the maf..

.. sorry, its the front, he has rear overfenders but not on yet, I'll be sure to have him post pics when its finished.

And widebody has nothing to do with it, just useless info.

crxrookie
07-01-2007, 09:36 AM
we put the new fuel pump in (walbro 255) and replaced the tps and throttle body w/ the one from the dohc ka. But now I'm confused the car ran .....OK.... that night, but the next day when I went back it ran like crap again. I'm lost, can anyone shine light on this.

victorw210
07-01-2007, 10:30 PM
there was another guy on her that i think had a similar problem and he forgot to connect some brake vaccuum hose or somthing.

please dont flame me if what im saying is wrong

tt99ol
07-01-2007, 11:23 PM
check your bov for leaks at idle and which vacuum hose do you have hooked up to your fpr, hopefully the small one on top, the small one on bottom is ported so cap it off it isn't needed but if you aren't using it then i dunno.

ECR33S14
07-01-2007, 11:36 PM
id check again for leaks. and if your running a new fuel pump your running a new FPR too right? make sure A/F ratio is right. also is the car throwing any codes?

crxrookie
07-02-2007, 06:39 AM
no acually I didn't get a new fpr....hmmm. Oh and no codes. Can fpr's go bad??????

the bov that I bought sucks so for right now I'm going to just take a steel plate and weld the bov port shut , I'll buy a new one before I start driving the car

The hoses are correct on the throttle body

timeless24
07-02-2007, 07:13 AM
i had that same problem
try getting ur hands an a TPS from a 91 to 94 2.0 sentra ser
take the cas out
take of the valve cover
and turn the motor to top dead center
insert the cas make sure it lined up properly
Step by step on heavythrottle.com
if thats doesn't work check your wiring
make sure everything is pluged up right and all the grounds on grounded properly
and if all fails do a leak down check

opponheimer
07-02-2007, 10:58 AM
Motor is set to tdc, i really thing its TPS problems.. Right now his idle screw is stripped out, does nissan sell these?

aznpoopy
07-02-2007, 11:21 AM
no acually I didn't get a new fpr....hmmm. Oh and no codes. Can fpr's go bad??????

yes...

on my friend's mr2, the turbo oil seal blew and clogged up the fpr with oil gunk, causing it to stick... end result car would run pig rich, hard to start, gas diluted oil, etc.

timeless24
07-02-2007, 07:24 PM
not sure about the idle screw maybe the more experienced form members will jump in at some point but should also check the maf

crxrookie
07-03-2007, 12:03 PM
I fixed the Idle problem, It was the vacume line between the throttle body and the fpr. But its still having the problem with throttling up.

timeless24
07-03-2007, 12:41 PM
what do u mean throttling up ?

SiI40sx
07-03-2007, 12:51 PM
Not to be an ass or anything but it was pretty funny how you inserted "widebody coupe" to the title of this thread.

crxrookie
07-03-2007, 01:17 PM
I guess I mean , when you hit the gas it revs to about 2000rpm and tops out like I've hit rev limiter , this happens at about 1/4 pedal.

opponheimer
07-03-2007, 01:28 PM
Not to be an ass or anything but it was pretty funny how you inserted "widebody coupe" to the title of this thread.


Nah its cool man, yeah it was kind of pointless - useless information, but what the hey. Congrats on blair (crxrookie) on his new baby girl. :wiggle:

crxrookie
07-03-2007, 01:38 PM
thanks mike!

timeless24
07-03-2007, 07:57 PM
check ur maf wiring, its either that or a bad maf

opponheimer
07-05-2007, 03:51 PM
check ur maf wiring, its either that or a bad maf

If you read the whole post you would find out we trie that :D mafs is fine

crxrookie
07-11-2007, 11:30 PM
Right now his idle screw is stripped out, does nissan sell these?


this is still an issue , does anyone know what will match???

JJ240
07-13-2007, 03:56 PM
When you have a bad MAFs, or don't have one connected it will limit revs to 2000, or 2500. Start doing some real mechanic work and eliminating variables. You need 3 things all in time for the engine to run right: Fuel, Spark, and ignition. Use an automotive stethescope to check that each of your injectors is firing, make a fuel pressure guage for ~$10 from your local hardware store to check that you have fuel going to the rail. If all is fine with fuel delivery check ALL the grounds between the harness, chassis, and engine. Then check ignition timing with the TPS unplugged and make sure it is within factory specs. If you aren't using the OE ignitor double check your ignitor wiring again, and check to make sure your spark plugs aren't fouled out. You can pull a coilpack and stuff a spark plug in it and let the plug arc to the intake manifold to check each cylinder is firing as you crank the motor. Do a compression test to make sure you have compression, and your cam timing is correct. You can also run the engine with the MAFs unplugged and the ECU will run off a default map if that is still questionable.

crxrookie
07-14-2007, 09:50 AM
Progress... the maf plug was broken, and the fpr was bad. So now it runs great , all except for one thing. When you give it gas it sputters for a moment, then once its passed about 2500rpms its fine. I've adjusted most of it out with the tps.

crxrookie
07-15-2007, 07:44 AM
Where can I find a Idle air control valve???