Wont Start without going WOT

[shift_drift]

92 KA24DE 240, N/A.

Problems:
- The car wont start without 100% throttle input
- The car wont stay on without throttle input
- The car smokes like crazy. The smoke is bluish white, but smells mostly like gas with some oil mixed in. Sort of like a 2stroke weed wacker.
Also, smoke lingers out of the tail pipe after the car is shut down
- The rpms surge from around 800 to 850 and hops around between those two values
- Car lacks power
- Misfires occasionaly

What we've check:
- MAF, voltage was fine, and I've tried different freshly cleaned mafs.
- Vacuum leaks, couldn't find any.
- Injectors/orings/seat seals & injector clips are fine
- TPS is reading correctly
- Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all new and working fine
- ECU has been replaced with a known working unit

Thing I want to check but don't know how:
- Cam angle sensor....anyone know?

Anyone have any ideas on things I should check/how to check them. Any help would be appreciated because the car has sat for way too long.

[statik]

have you checked the codes? you can check the coolant temp sensor for the ECU since it sounds like you are flooding the motor

[shift_drift]

I've pulled the codes from both ecus and all I get is the all clear code 55.

[Phlip]

Compression check and pressure check your cooling system, to rule out the head gasket, then clean/replace the IACV if it doesn't turn out to be the HG

[shift_drift]

Compression check and pressure check your cooling system, to rule out the head gasket, then clean/replace the IACV if it doesn't turn out to be the HG

I cleaned the IACV, and it changed nothing. I'll do the compression test as soon as I can get my hands on a tester. Any one else have any ideas?

[Z U L8R]

do not be afraid of the compression test ^_^ do eiiit!!11

[aznpoopy]

i know you said you checked injectors already, but that really sounds like a stuck/leaky injector/injector seal problem.

are you flooding?
oil getting diluted with gas?
how did you check? how did you do the re-install? don't torque them down by the caps. very common mistake. you have to squeeze them in by hand, gently.

if not injectors, try the fpr. my buddy's mr2 had the exact same symptoms when his FPR got clogged/stuck.

[koukimonster139]

I've had this problem. In my case it was the FPR and I had the same problems that you mentioned.

[Canaduh]

I feel a little late, but this was exact same thing had happen to me after swapping engines, and i just swapped the old FPR on my engine and it runs great now.

[jrmiller84]

I had something similar lately in my build, turned out to be the brake booster tube being disconnected.

I didn't get blue/white smoke though, but just a thought.

[shift_drift]

When this first started happening, I suspected the injectors, but the injectors and rail I have on my car right now were pulled straight off a running motor. I had the fuel lines hooked up to the rail , but the rail wasn't bolted to the engine to check if the o-rings were leaking, and no gas was leaking past. I've tried 2 different rails with two different fpr's and have had the same results.

[aznpoopy]

check injector wiring
iirc wiring can muck up causing injector to be open 24/7
although if that were happening, i would expect you to flood the motor very quickly and lock a cylinder very quickly. ask me how i know. :P

[ixfxi]

My SR did the same thing, and it was taken apart and cleaned up really well before installing it onto the chassis. The entire car was also rewired from scratch, so wiring was all sweet.

I didnt have any idle issues, nor did I have smoke issues.. just the start, thats it. The only way the car would start would be if I opened the throttle before starting it (WOT), and immediately let off once started. When the car warms up, its fine though - this would only happen when cold.

Now that I think about it, maybe its fuel pressure regulator - because thats the only thing I never touched on the car. Everything else was very maintained. I'll have to check it out again when I get my car back and set it up again.

[shift_drift]

check injector wiring
iirc wiring can muck up causing injector to be open 24/7
although if that were happening, i would expect you to flood the motor very quickly and lock a cylinder very quickly. ask me how i know. :P

All the clips get constant 12V, and I hooked node lights up, and they flashed fairly strong when I cranked the motor. The thing that made me think it was my ecu originally was that when cranking the motor, all the lights lit up in unison, which I thought wasnt right, but even with the new ecu, I get the same problems. But my main concern with that was if only two cylinders were getting fuel on the right stroke, how did the car even run? Also, when I first got my car I would blow the brake booster vac line off if I ever ran it hard, so it was the first thing I looked for, and I put a really tight clamp on it. I'm stumped on this, and this is crazy frustrating. I'm beginning to think the problem might be the cam angle sensor since, as far as I know thats what the ecu uses to to know when to trigger the injectors, but I may be wrong.

[shift_drift]

Any chance it could be my fuel pump? That's one of the things I have yet to check.

[yusuke1923]

Man I have the same problem with my motor. I have to be FULL THROTTLE to turn on the the car or else it will flood. And I have to crank all of the flood out....

[Z U L8R]

look at the other post with the guy who's having this same issue, and learn about the infamous ^_^ idle air control valve air regulator valve ^_^_^_^_^__^_^_^

i know you're rockin an sr but this is a common rb thing, when people do rb20's they hardly ever wire this up, that's why all your rb friends can never get their shit started the very first try.

i'd laugh if both or your problems is just a bad tps, i doubt it though lol

LEARN @_@_@__@_@ http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=142321

[shift_drift]

bump.....anyone else want to chime in?

[yusuke1923]

I wonder why I have to have the car full throttle before start up? Maybe I need to change FPR?
Injectors too big?

"shift_drift" I'm in a similar boat as you... You think this is something about wiring? I read "Z U L8R" other thread... its interesting maybe try something like that...

[yusuke1923]

My SR did the same thing, and it was taken apart and cleaned up really well before installing it onto the chassis. The entire car was also rewired from scratch, so wiring was all sweet.

I didnt have any idle issues, nor did I have smoke issues.. just the start, thats it. The only way the car would start would be if I opened the throttle before starting it (WOT), and immediately let off once started. When the car warms up, its fine though - this would only happen when cold.

Now that I think about it, maybe its fuel pressure regulator - because thats the only thing I never touched on the car. Everything else was very maintained. I'll have to check it out again when I get my car back and set it up again.

I will try this one... So did you ever change your FPR??? I have the same problem.. I have to have it full throttle b4 i start it...