Damn KA Bogging

[twofortyrida1388]

i have a mad bogging issue. i bought a 93 240 hatch that sat for a year before i bought it. i replaced plugs, hotwires, fuel filter, cat, o2 sen, maf, air filter by KnN w/ CAI, removed egr, ran 3 bottles of sea foam, rotor button, whole distributer assembly, and i think thats it. some times it dies if cold and i just cranked it. it will idle high like 1000-1200 until fully warmed up. its so embarrassing b/c sometimes when i go after a stop in 1st gear it will straight up bog out like im dumping clutch like a newb, itl do it between 2-2700rpm. i cant floor it at all in neutral or it will totally bog and start diieng. i cant figure this shit out. please please let me know what you think its gonna make me insane and end up hating KA's.

[s13gold]

maybe your iacv valve is clogged.

[MELLO*SOS]

What does the ECU think the problem is? If you ask nicely it might tell you.

[twofortyrida1388]

funny guy thanks for input.

[MELLO*SOS]

:) So have you pulled the codes from the ECU yet? Might point you the right direction and only take a couple minutes of your time. GL

[twofortyrida1388]

its 8pm here and dark. im shure its not throwing codes because the engine light works and has never came on. I need to hit the sack kinda early because Im gonna go burn up some tires at the track tomarrow. thanks though i will def let you know tomarrow.

[twofortyrida1388]

damn i killed a word or 2

[drftwerks]

Vac Leak
Yay

[twofortyrida1388]

thats what i thought but a fellow 240 buddy and i checked everything thing out and came up with nada. keep it coming though cuz im ready to fix this agrivating damn problem.

[switchflip]

i had a same prob but it was the maf mine is kinda gets lose when i hit a good bumb i just plug it back in and it acts normal

[davirene]

Well I too am in the same boat just bought a 90 coupe SE model that the previous owner parked cause of the same issue....I keep being referred by friends back to airflow and fuel flow...I changed fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil pack, distributor, MAF, TPS, O2 sensor, exhaust keep in mind the parts came off of a perfectly good running KA. Picture below....I hope we can both find a solution???

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14/davirene/100_2064.jpg

[johngriff]

ROFL.

A mechanic could probably help you if you are that inconvinced.

It sounds like you are getting air in after the maf. Intake Mani gaskets, and piping between maf and T/B. What is the Vacum @ Idle?

[twofortyrida1388]

after it warms up it idles perfect about 770. Sometimes it is kinda fine. like it will bog a little bit when floored while driving but other times it like im dumping the clutch and the car acts retarded and bogs the fuck out. i wouldnt think i would have vac leak cuz after warm idle is perfect. I heard if intake mani gasket is bad you can hear a suction very clearly, like it will make a loud noice. I checked all vac lines 2/3 times and came up with nothing.

[dct223]

check coolant temp sensor along with the harness plug for it... usually a culprit of KA's acting retarded

[johngriff]

Heat = expansion.

Effects on gasket? If you want help, you have to perform the proper tests. Put a vacuum gauge on the vehicle. If you dont even own a vac gauge, you should probably take your car to a mechanic.

[MELLO*SOS]

Just because the check engine light isn't lit up doesn't mean there aren't codes stored on the ECU. When I had a code 34 for bad KS or KS wiring (killed performance from 3000+) there was no light. I have a short in my ect wiring harness now, and there is no light. Also I had a code for the o2 sensor, and again no light. It takes all of 5 minutes to pull the codes, and you won't even get greasy.

[UNISA JECS]

Yes code 34 will casue the bogging and huge power loss and shitty gas milage and will not illuminate a check engine light alone......i'll give you some good advice to help you diagnois a problem with the knock sensor, first you need a digital volt meter and ground one probe and back probe the other to the knock sensor pin in back of the ecu and with the key on engine off you should recieve 2.5 volts if you have a short to ground it will be closer to 0 volts and here the big headache savings info if you do have a shirt to ground it most likely gonna be found in the black plastic casing just above the fuel rail closly look for a thicker gauge black wire with a very slight bulge in it and thats gonna be your short to ground, this is a shielded wire by the way so when you repair it make sure to separate the shielding from teh actually signal wire when solding it back together.

I have personally fixed 5 S13 KA24DE with this problem with the same short to ground and the same exact location +/- 5 inches.

[twofortyrida1388]

hey thanks alot man i just back from myrtle beach sc for a drifting comp and i will def checks everything you said said and post up how it went.

[twofortyrida1388]

i may be just a little tired. grammar is a bit shot.

[twofortyrida1388]

I turned the ecu around and with ign in on position I turned it clockwise for 2 sec then read the led and it was showing 12. I think that is MAF. but I've replaced the MAF and the Maf wire is fine. WTF????:hammer:

[MELLO*SOS]

Unhook the battery for a while to erase the code from your ECU. Then go for a quick drive and check them again. If you're still getting codes, something is still wrong.

[twofortyrida1388]

thanks will do right now.

[twofortyrida1388]

damn forgot to post that. but i unplugged battery for like 5-10 minutes and still nothing. The bitch still bogs the fuck out. what next??

[smily_vigor]

Man i'm having the exact same problem. It bogs and jerks all out of the blue. Especially when i'm driving around normal then I come to the light, when I go to take off the car bogs and jerks a lot with no power and it basically almost shuts off. Even when I floor it when it's doing this nothing happens. I have to stop for a sec then go, then the car goes back to kinda normal. In genral though the car seems really dead like i'm loosing power somewhere or something. Can someone help us out cause this problem is really getting annoying. I'm going to check for codes and also check the knock sensor like the dude was saying.

[smily_vigor]

Yes code 34 will casue the bogging and huge power loss and shitty gas milage and will not illuminate a check engine light alone......i'll give you some good advice to help you diagnois a problem with the knock sensor, first you need a digital volt meter and ground one probe and back probe the other to the knock sensor pin in back of the ecu and with the key on engine off you should recieve 2.5 volts if you have a short to ground it will be closer to 0 volts and here the big headache savings info if you do have a shirt to ground it most likely gonna be found in the black plastic casing just above the fuel rail closly look for a thicker gauge black wire with a very slight bulge in it and thats gonna be your short to ground, this is a shielded wire by the way so when you repair it make sure to separate the shielding from teh actually signal wire when solding it back together.

I have personally fixed 5 S13 KA24DE with this problem with the same short to ground and the same exact location +/- 5 inches.

Could you show some pictures please just so it's totally clear. Thanks

[twofortyrida1388]

that shit is no joke. it is damn embarrassing. after driving for a while and hit a light. you start going bog kick bog kick, flooring it almost kills it then people are going around you and the only thing you can do is take foot off gas and press clutch and rev it up to like 2500 and slowly let off it.

[ladiesman8527]

have u checked for codes again yet?

[twofortyrida1388]

i just did it a few hours ago.

[twofortyrida1388]

The code it did throw was MAF. but its new. the plug and wire is fine. filter new everything. the only thing I noticed about the maf is the plug has 3 connectors and the maf has 4. but my friends was same. but if no one minds can they please check their dohc ka maf and plug. and post what it looks like.

[ladiesman8527]

what number is labeled on your maf? did u truly get a NEW maf or is it new to you?

[twofortyrida1388]

new to me. the number on the yellow tag. im not getting a new new one unless i absolutly have to. there a 100+.

[twofortyrida1388]

hey jecs. i took cover off and tape. and there are quite a few black wires. where roughly shoot this bulge be?? im out there right now.

[twofortyrida1388]

I checked that wire and it seemed fine. it have a hump in it it. but when i took the casing off all it was, was the silver colored wires wrapped around another white wire inside. the silver ones werent as evenly wrapped around at the hump. i hope you understood that

[ladiesman8527]

did the MAF you have now come from a S13 or an S14?

[BigVinnie]

What does the ECU think the problem is? If you ask nicely it might tell you.
LOL that is something I would say!!!!!

[BigVinnie]

its 8pm here and dark. im shure its not throwing codes because the engine light works and has never came on. I need to hit the sack kinda early because Im gonna go burn up some tires at the track tomarrow. thanks though i will def let you know tomarrow.

FYI the engine light doesn't always come on.It depends on the code. Mostly for smog emissions is when the light comes on.
I remember when I had to fix my speed sensors that the last jack ass ripped out. No engine light, but the ecu threw out the codes.

[twofortyrida1388]

it came out of an s13. today i checked that wire i was ask to check and i moved my throttle cable so i could get to the nut on my strut tower bar and i forgot to put the cable in right. soo when i cranked it i was like wtf did i mess up because it was at 2300 after i cranked it. idk i was worried as fuck until i saw the prob.

[twofortyrida1388]

oh one thing i forgot to mention( idk if it matters) but when it bogs i can here it like crazy from the cai.

[UNISA JECS]

I checked that wire and it seemed fine. it have a hump in it it. but when i took the casing off all it was, was the silver colored wires wrapped around another white wire inside. the silver ones werent as evenly wrapped around at the hump. i hope you understood that

Use a multimeter and play with the wire where the suspected hump is to see if you get a change in voltage and that will indicate your short to ground thats the best way I can tell you to do it, mines and all teh others cars I have done that weere bad had a little pimple of a hump where the wire shorted to ground...

[twofortyrida1388]

its not really a hump more like a spot thats not the same texture as the rest of the wire.

[twofortyrida1388]

Who else has an idea. Please HELP.

[twofortyrida1388]

Anyone here from wilmington/hew hanover county area that knows where the hell i can take this thing to?

[plinkus]

I had/have a problem really similar to this which led to a lot of :bash: because I am a :newbie: ...ANYWAY

The bogging and stuttering thing is REALLY F-ing annoying and happened to me a few times and its embarrassing to have to pull over and talk sweet to your car until it stops acting like it has Tourette's . Mine also likes to shut down when it returns to idle (coming to a stop where the car is going from driving RPM to idling).

I bought a recharger for my air filter and some MAF cleaner and some pour in fuel injector cleaner and a new fuel filter.

*Tried to change the fuel filter (nowhere near as easy as it looks in the book) and couldn't get it off so I'll get around to it.

*Cleaned and recharged the air filter and checked the MAFS (which could have just came out of the box being that clean)

*Dumped in the Injector cleaner with a fresh tank of $3.05/gallon premium (screw you big oil!)

Car still does the shutting off thing sometimes when coming to idle from driving revs but it hasn't stuttered or done the severe bogging thing and has way better power now.

Next on my list to solve this problem is cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) and if that doesn't work clean the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve (EGR valve).

GL man, let me know how it goes

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks man. rip that egr shit out. all the shit to right. all its doing is putting exhaust back into your intake. my throttle body was soo gunky it would make a smack noise when I whould open it from all the bullshit from exhaust. Like pulling that putty shit out of it plastic container(that kid putty shit). Yeah dude if you read my first post I have fixed/replaced 90% of what it could be. now comes the exspensive shit.

[MELLO*SOS]

Plinkus have you pulled the codes from your ecu?

Twofortyrida1388 what codes are you still getting

[twofortyrida1388]

I am ripping my dash out but I will check it will it is right there in the open and let you know.

[MELLO*SOS]

How do you know there isn't a short in the wiring to the MAF? Have you been able to test the continuity from the ECU to the MAF? Assuming you're still getting a Code 12....

[plinkus]

Plinkus have you pulled the codes from your ecu?

Nope, I'a a big :newbie: at tinkering with cars. My car doesn't have a check engine light on so I wouldn't think to figure out how to pull codes.

If I disconnect my EGR should I just cap all the tubes and rip the valve out? They don't have emissions where I live so it shouldn't matter in that respect and from reading about it I know that it isn't really doing anything for me other than helping save the environment.

Another thing I am trying to figure out at the moment is whether or not carb cleaner works to clean the IACV. I have read that you should use Intake cleaner not Carb cleaner and I have seen many people say to use Carb cleaner. After reading some guys post about destroying his IACV with carb cleaner I am a little hesitant.

twofortyrida1388...check this out http://nv240sx.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=4748

Also, Mello88 is there something wrong with your link to Leak Down & Pressure Testing 101 in your sig? I can't get it to open.

[MELLO*SOS]

Search on how to read the codes. Also you should find a copy of the FSM or field service manual for your car, it'll tell you everything you need to know about your motor, chassis, suspension, etc.. Including how to pull the codes. You basically turn the key to the on position, then turn the screw on the back of the ecu 270 degrees, then back to 0. The ECU will then flash out the codes, long flashes are "worth" 10 and short flashes are worth "1"...

Yes you need an EGR block off plate, plus you'll need some kind of plug for the header. Look on ebay or search on here for details.

Carb cleaner is a little harsh, try buying some "throttle body & intake cleaner". They sell it at all the auto parts stores.

Plinkus are you from vegas? Funny you'd link to our local forum :)

And no the "leakdown/pressure testing 101" link works fine, but you have to be a premium member to read that write up (for now, I think eventually it'll be made public). If you have any questions on leak testing or pressure testing just send me a PM

[Boost-Fiend]

i had a similiar problem on my turbo datsun. turns out it was the fpr. so it wasnt gettin the right fuel pressure.

[twofortyrida1388]

Plinkus check this out ( http://com2.runboard.com/b240sxenthusiasts.f29.t436 ) this is from a local forum where I am at it tells you everything you need to know on checking codes manually and what codes are what. very usefull. Go to advance auto and they have a plug kit ( look like bullets but hollow). The kit is like 6 bucks. It has all the plugs you need for egr. Rip all that shit out, charcoal canister all the vacuum lines that run from TB to it. Just plug all the vacuum lines on throttle body. Then you have that curly pipe coming from the header and just put a bigger plug on it with a clamp. got a brain fart. like the clamp on a CAI or intercooler piping..damn cant think of what you call it. Anyway Im sure you know what Im talking about. I checked my ecu again before I finished up reinstalling dash with kick panel and I got some weird shit here it is. 1..1..1..1..1.1.1.1.1 five slow then five fast. 111115 what the fuck is that.need help on this one.

[twofortyrida1388]

I might pick up fpr from advance. I get a badass 20% discount on mad shit.

[MELLO*SOS]

55 means A-OK dude. take it for a spin and check it again

[twofortyrida1388]

It confused me with the first set of lagging ones. shouldnt it be a quicker 11111 pause 11111. Ill give it a spin and enjoy that new painted dash smell.

[twofortyrida1388]

Oh Mello88 you've been a big help too, thanks.

[MELLO*SOS]

The longer flashes are worth 10 points. The shorter/faster flashes are worth one point. NP, gl getting it fixed.

[twofortyrida1388]

OK OK that makes total sense now. Ill be back 10-15 min to check it out.

[twofortyrida1388]

I just checked it out and it still boggs. When I floor it it doesn't bog so bad it starts to die but it sputter and still increases rpm. but when I completly floorit it really opens the fuck up at at 3800-4000. So far not throwing codes but still bogs. What next??

[twofortyrida1388]

I was going to put a vid of my bogging but when I put it on the comp it wouldnt play sound, but the camera will play sound back. wtf? wanted ya'll to here/see what I do.

[twofortyrida1388]

How do I get a video from kodak easy share onto photobucket so I can get the link on here? Its a short clip of my bogging bullshit.

[MELLO*SOS]

Just save the video file (mov, wmv, whatever) to your hard drive then upload it to photobucket. But Kodak should have a way to share videos hosted on their site..

[plinkus]

Well twofortyrida,

My car is tentatively fixed at this point.

1. recharged the air filter/threw in the fuel injector cleaner/checked MAFS for cleanliness

2. cleaned IACV with Carb Cleaner/replaced fuel filter/tested fuel injectors

Seems to run fine now though I am not convinced it's fixed completely. Many of the accounts of issues I have come across similar to this say that it stops bogging/shutting off for a few days after the IACV is cleaned and then the issue returns so I will post again and let you know how it is going and see how your issue is going.

Funny thing is, I went to test drive it after we got everything put back together and my f-ing lowbeams weren't working...so I'm gonna be hunting new gremlins til the bogging rears its ugly head again.

On a side note:

My friend showed me a nifty trick to check and see if your fuel injectors are working right. You take a longish piece of metal (we used an 10inch drill bit) and touch one end to the metal part over the injector and put your ear up to the other end. You will here a rapid ticking if it is working properly. He told me that if one isn't working properly then then it will sound alot different.

Big thanks to everyone, Mello especially, who has responded so far. I have learned alot.

Mello, I am not from NV, I just happened across that site.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks guys I'm gonna try to get that clip on here today. The car bogs but it hasnt done the stoplight bogging in a while, but I havent drivin it on any decent length trip then stopped.

My computer doesn't have kodak easy share but my roomates does. He's asleep so Ill get the clip on Wednesday or Thursday.

[plinkus]

:rant:

Well I thought it was fixed but I fired it up and :wtf: here comes the sporadic idling again. I'm starting to think its my MAFS wiring. We shall see...

[ladiesman8527]

have u checked your TPS?

[plinkus]

No, I don't have a multimeter so I am thinking it might be time for a trip to the shop :-/

[ladiesman8527]

a multimeter is what? $20? just get one. its worth its weight in gold.

[plinkus]

Holy crap...

I didn't realize they were so cheap. Can you believe I am an electronics technician?

[twofortyrida1388]

My ass needs to pick one up as well.

[twofortyrida1388]

Hey mello when I try to save the clip on my harddrive it says saving pic and only uploads pic.

[smily_vigor]

Any lastest news with this issue. It's still happening to me (when I can actually get my car started) The wire with the buldge that might be shorting, is it the wire comming directly off of the knock sensor?

[plinkus]

Mine is still goofing some too... I haven't had time to get a multimeter or anything like that. I am thinking its time for a trip to the shop just to save myseld the time and hassle. I will post up what the results are when I get it back.

[twofortyrida1388]

My car hasnt done the bogging after light in a while but if I floor it in neutral it still takes it until 4k to really open up.

[ranger240]

What next??

Check/change your injector O rings for leaks FTW clean/replace the injectors if nessicary. my car used to bogg, doing this fixed it...

also be easy on the K&N filter oil stuff.. too much of that can piss off the MAF a bit.. after doing the above if you wanna take more shots in the dark.. theres electrical plug cleaner stuff for junk like your MAF plug and other random stuff

goodluck lemme know if this works

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks. Lately I have been getting injector advice so I will have to check them out.

[twofortyrida1388]

What would be the best suggested method of cleaning injectors and what cleaner to use?

[MELLO*SOS]

I think most of that pour-in-tank injector cleaner is a joke. To do it "right" pull the injectors and send them to an injector cleaning service, like Deatschwerks (http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/injector_services.php). It's like $15 per injector, they'll come back as good as new rebuilt with new o-rings, filter basket, etc.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks mello88. That is awesome. Much cheaper than getting new injectors.

[240sxhed]

ROFL.

A mechanic could probably help you if you are that inconvinced.

It sounds like you are getting air in after the maf. Intake Mani gaskets, and piping between maf and T/B. What is the Vacum @ Idle?

I had the same problem...it did infact turn out to be air getting in after the MAF. One of the off shoots of the plastic intake piping was extremely loose (near the passenger side of the radiator) tightend that up and problem dissapeared for now:x:

[twofortyrida1388]

I dont have the plastic intake anymore. The only place I could be getting air after the MAF is the intake mani gasket. I doubt it. Like someone said Heat=Expansion but idle is fine after it warms up it only bogs when floored. If I ease on the pedal to redline it is fine.

[MELLO*SOS]

Thanks mello88. That is awesome. Much cheaper than getting new injectors.

Yeah they do awesome work with a quick turn around too. I had them do my RB injectors, they came back looking new... They'll also number each injector and give you a report on the final flow for each one. There is a deal for Zilvia members for free return shipping and free upgrade to the "dynamic service", it should end up like $15 each with that deal. GL

Edit 2: You may be getting the bog after it's warm due to a couple reasons. But one thing I'd check right away is the temp sensor and/or the wiring going to it. I believe I have a short in mine somewhere, if my KA is warmed up and idling I can fiddle with the ECT wiring and get the idle rpm to change...

Edit 3: Okay to help you find your intake leak... You should either buy, or build, one of these things:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/tester_black_picture.jpg

Then clamp that in place of your air filter (if you have a MAF adapter and cone filter -- If you have a stock style airbox take off the MAF and clamp this to the intake tube), and hook your air compressor up to it. Set the compressor regulator to like 5 or 10psi. That'll be more than enough pressure to hear where the air is leaking from (probably enough to blow off some loose fittings too, lol). Be sure to unhook and plug off the PCV setup, and any other crap like that (the charcoal canister for instance). You can use a little spray bottle with some soapy water to squirt around the hose connections, gaskets, etc..

[twofortyrida1388]

Damn thats some cool shit. So being on Zilvia I can get free return shipping and get the dynamic upgrade too? Thats insane.

[MELLO*SOS]

Yep. Check out this thread: http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=127012&highlight=deatschwerks

GL dude.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thats great, can't wait to get mine done.

[BigVinnie]

Dude did you ever check to see if you had a bad belt fan clutch assembly. If the clutch on the fan doesn't disengage the idle fluctuates really bad, and sometimes can cause the engine to shut off. It can also cause bogging issues.

[240silvia]

He doesn't have the clutch fan on the car.....

Next.... lol.

Sterling this is the longest problem I've ever seen.

[MELLO*SOS]

Diagnosing bogging is fun! Here is my old thread about code 34 bogging from 3000 to 5000:

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=63538&highlight=bog+3000

[twofortyrida1388]

He doesn't have the clutch fan on the car.....

Next.... lol.

Sterling this is the longest problem I've ever seen.

LOL! CHARLES! Whats up dude. You know how bad my shit can be. I should be getting struts very soon so I can go to your place and you can help a brother out.

You bought another bike??

[twofortyrida1388]

I read your code 34 thread and got some ideas but my bogs(only WOT) idle to 4k(in neutral) then really really screams and opens up after 4k.

[Tech12]

have you checked your tps yet?

[twofortyrida1388]

About that injector site. How long would that take for them to do what they do and then me getting them back. Basically roughly the time from which I send them out to when I get them back.

[twofortyrida1388]

I dont have a multi meter. ECU didnt show it either.

[MELLO*SOS]

They sell cheap Digital Multimeters, go look at Radio Shack or even Home Depot. They are an invaluable tool for diagnosing problems and testing circuits, you'll wonder how you got by without it (hmm it's that way with all tools though)

They are fast, the biggest wait is the shipping time. But figure a week or so with round trip shipping. Just call them or send them an email or PM...

[BigVinnie]

He doesn't have the clutch fan on the car.....

Next.... lol.

Sterling this is the longest problem I've ever seen.

Your just retarded with bad rep anyways.


He doesn't have the clutch fan on the car.....

Next.... lol.

Sterling this is the longest problem I've ever seen.




Well obviously to have this thread go on for so many pages just makes you incompetent. If the ecu throws out a code saying it's the MAF, it is something with the MAF. Just to help you out a bit you probably have a faulty ground. Within the three wires there is a Black with white strip, a white wire and an all black wire. More than likely you have a faulty ground that needs to be bypassed (this would be the black wire).
Sorry if the pics are shitty, but I have had to do this on a few s13's. Mine happens to be one of them.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/MAFbypass.jpg

Then properly ground out to the chassis.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/MAFgroundbypass.jpg

It doesnt hurt to bypass the ground. It will save you a headache from buying a volt meter.

There you go I am tired of spoon feeding.

[twofortyrida1388]

Well then it said 55(OK), I just checked it again and got 11 CPS. I checked all grounds and their good. Just in case Ill check it again when its light. Thank you sir, I will do that tomarrow and tell you if it does it.

[twofortyrida1388]

I grounded the MAF same spot and made sure no paint or corrosion blocked it and it is still acting retarded. Step 1 buy multi meter, Step 2 test TPS, Step 3 test CTS, Step 4 new MAF, Step 5 part out KA and buy newer one. Oh before step 5 I'll send injectors out by that recommended site.

[twofortyrida1388]

Dont know if this matters but before oil pan and valve cover gaskets went in they sprayed oil all over tps and basically everthing thing else in front area of hood and throttle body down is covered with gunk just straight oil and dirt.

[ripnbst]

Well then thats probably a good place to start. I am having this same problem, I asked around locally and someone asked me if my timing has been messed with. I just recently acquired the car so I dont know if the timing is off. I am gonna check it next week and probably take it to autozone this week and have the codes pulled from the ECU. I will let you guys know what the codes are when I get time to take it. Yes this is a really long thread which I just every word of and all the recommendations help, all the useless bitching about thread length is just that, useless bitching.

In all my reading I have compiled a list of culprits here it is:
1. Injectors
2. MAF
3. Timing
4. MAF WIRING
5. Knock sensor
6. Fuel Filter
7. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor?)
8. Air entering after the MAF
9. IAVC
10. EGR

Did I miss anything?

[wickeds13]

Is there white smoke coming out of your exhaust? If it is it may be a blown head gasket or valve seals. If not it might be a blown valve. Cause I'm having the same problem too.

[twofortyrida1388]

Mine doesnt even burn oil(no smoke). You forgot the KA bog curse lol. A shit load of people seem to have it and they are all unique. I guess I will rip TB out and clean it too. If this shit aint right by the time all this stuff is checked and/or replaced a newer s14 setup is going in or a low mile s13. Today my alternator belt shredded when I dropped it into second at 45 keeping this car from passing me on my way home from work. When I got home I wasnt certain and when I revved it it would pretty much die. Like it didnt come off but it shredded in half. About a pencil size thread left got me home. Wire was thrown all over.

[s13_gearhead]

Thanks man. rip that egr shit out. all the shit to right. all its doing is putting exhaust back into your intake. my throttle body was soo gunky it would make a smack noise when I whould open it from all the bullshit from exhaust. Like pulling that putty shit out of it plastic container(that kid putty shit). Yeah dude if you read my first post I have fixed/replaced 90% of what it could be. now comes the exspensive shit.


You mean all the EGR does it put exhaust back into the intake? I thought it was like, exhaust gas recirculation or something!

[twofortyrida1388]

Yeah that is what it is. The exhaust gas gets reused with intake air. http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm

[ripnbst]

Not sure, but twoforty...I am pretty sure he was kidding. I am running my car to autozone to run the ECU codes in an hour and see what comes up and I am also gonna ask if they can use their timing gun to check my timing and see what that looks like. My idle after it warms up is walkin all over the place which is why the timing is suspect to me. If it looks good then I can cross it off the list of possible culprits.

[twofortyrida1388]

Well I had to make sure anyway. You never know with some people.

[drewc87]

what about a fuel pump? have you checked to see if your getting fuel pressure?

[MELLO*SOS]

Not sure, but twoforty...I am pretty sure he was kidding. I am running my car to autozone to run the ECU codes in an hour and see what comes up and I am also gonna ask if they can use their timing gun to check my timing and see what that looks like. My idle after it warms up is walkin all over the place which is why the timing is suspect to me. If it looks good then I can cross it off the list of possible culprits.

Have you checked your ECT sensor?

Also be wary of the codes that the Autozone scanner will give you. The numerical code should be right, but the text description of the problem may not be. Get the #s and look them up yourself to be sure.

[twofortyrida1388]

I actually was thinking maybe fuel pump for the fact that if it is ran dry it can damage the pump because the fuel acts also as a coolant for the pump.

[MELLO*SOS]

Yup. I noticed a nice power improvement going from my stock pump to the Walbro, made me think that maybe after 14 years the stock pump was a little tired... If you pick up a Walbro you should also get a Nismo FPR. This is because the Walbro has a tendency to overrun the stock FPR and cause you to run too rich. Even if the pump turns out to not be the problem at least it's upgraded and you're ready for any swap or KA-T setup.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks man. Walbro's are awesome there on ebay for like 100 bucs. I'll check to see how much the Nismo FPR will cost. Since I work at Advance I'm thinking of just getting a brand new maf and tps. Old tps is covered with oil and dirt.

[MELLO*SOS]

There is a guy/company on here that sells the Walbros for like 90 something shipped. And the Nismo FPR is like $80 to $100ish, check performancenissan.com I think thats where I got mine from. GL

[ripnbst]

Took my ride to autozone and it ran 5-5, meaning A-OK. So I dont know wtf I am gonna do. What would cause this problem that wouldnt show up on the ECU? I am thinking if it was MAF related it woulda tripped the ECU. I am gonna check the timing and see what thats like. I am also thinking it might be air entering after the MAF. My buddy I showed my car to said that his dads car was acting this same way and it ended up being an intake mani. gasket. Is there any way to check if they are leaky? I am thinking it has got be air coming after the MAF aka the gaskets or its the timing. It runs pretty rich and it has no balls top-end so I think it might not be getting the air it needs. Any thoughts?

[MELLO*SOS]

Yes you need to pressure test the intake system. Look at this post I just wrote on another site... It's for a turbo motor but the concept and procedure is identical for NA engine...


You don't really need to seal off the end by the TB, if you want to test the entire system for leaks. If you wanted to test a specific component you could do like you say and put a cap on the "other end" of the cold pipe. All you really need is a pressure test adapter, either build your own or buy one:

http://www.stealth316.com/images/pt-incar.jpg

http://www.a4mods.com/pics/boosleak/IMG_0639.JPG

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ImagesSpecialTools/PressureTester.gif

http://www.speedforsale.com/newparts/uploaded/thumbs/tn_DSC01787.JPG

http://www.ttzed.com/products/productimages/large/CNCIP80.jpg

Then clamp it to the MAF or compressor inlet or hotpipe inlet with a silicone coupler. Set your tank (or inline) regulator to your test pressure (5-20psi) and pressurize the system. You can listen for leaks and/or spray suspected leaks with soapy water.

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks a lot mello88. With your ongoing help I'm sure we will fix this damn annoyance.

[ladiesman8527]

i made one of them things when i had a bad vacuum leak that i couldnt find. it was a really big help.

[twofortyrida1388]

I'm gonna hit up Home Depo and make one. I really hope its tps or something else other than intake mani.

[twofortyrida1388]

I'm gonna make that tip to test any leakage this weekend and tell you what happens.

[twofortyrida1388]

I compression tested the intake and it turns out my fpr actuator had a busted hose. But I put a new hose on and that was a bitch. It is right on the fire wall basically. But when I replaced it my car still bogged but ran much stronger 1st-4th. It didn't struggle as much to get to a hundred. I retested it and there is still a hissing coming from behind intake mani and I can't ell from where. The hose is fine. It sounds like its coming from the actuator but its not cracked or anything it seems fine. Does anyone know what it could be back there leaking. I now know its a vacuum issue and not anything else.

[ladiesman8527]

what about the line from the brake booster to the intake mani? ive had troubles with those leaking before. i recommend changing that line to a one piece line. its a two piece line from the factory and that just makes more potential places to leak.

[Taba13]

the fatter of the black wire community in the lastic sheild above the fuel rail!

sneaky little thing it is, mine too had this ever so slight bump in it, so i thought about it, roamed around here for a few minutes and decided to check this bump out, i pulled apart the black shielding right in area of that bump, what i noticed was seriously something for all to consider.

the white wire inside the wrapped silver shielding wire was cracked just enough for 1 measly little strand of that shield to touch the cracked part of the white wire, that crack exposed the internal copper inside the white shield, therefore making a short.

unfortunately im just looking as to why my KA isnt as perky as i have tuned it to be, yeah it moves but not how i expect.

SO point is: check that wire, it is always better to be absolutely positive, if it means cutting it in 2 just to solder it back together so be it, at least it was checked intensively.

thanks to all who actually suggested that wire!

[twofortyrida1388]

I have arlready checked the wire. My problem is a vacuum leak. The car is getting worse its like my oil leaks a shitload more and the car is driving shitty. Its overheating by my standards. The gauge doesn't say it in dash but I can def tell. Its getting soo hot my thin Al. cai is sizzling to the touch even after 10 or so minutes of the car sitting off with the electric fan blowing.

[twofortyrida1388]

My ride has been fixed for about a month now but I figured I'd just reopen this to state what my problem was this whole time so someone can possibly help themselves with it. My fuel pump was bad or in the process of going. The only reason I found out was one day I decided to reseal my cam sprocket cover because it was slightly leaking. To make a long story short I fucked up my timing. When I got my timing right my shit wouldn't run, couldn't touch the throttle w/o it dying. So I tested cps and it was good. 5.10 reading at the ignition intervals. So I figured I got spark but no gas and made a fuel pressure gauge and installed it after the fuel filter and got a reading of 17-19psi when it primed and the few seconds it would last when cranked, and same reading before filter(filter good pump bad). Dropped a new pump in and she cranked right up. But found my vac leak (egr crap). Removed all the egr mess with a block off plate and a combo of a homemade cut to shape leather gasket and a plenty of black permatex. All I had to do is reroute the fpr to that line beside/behind brake booster line. It runs sooooooooo much better :2f2f: and faster I've highly reconsidered my goals of 350-400hp. I think 250-300hp would be plenty for a while. Thanks everyone who helped and I hope this helps everyone with the infamous ka bogging.

[MELLO*SOS]

leather gasket. wow thats like using lambskin rubbers HAHA

Glad you got it fixed

[twofortyrida1388]

Thanks man, you were a huge help as well. Oh and the leather thing was because I put it on with just permatex and it leaked so for a quick fix I was like why not. Free gasket. Leather gaskets are ballin (lol) noone knows about those.