Help with Z32 MAF install ( possibly too late)

[sil_8t]

I followed the instructions in this write up. http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=97556
I am assuming they are right but why did this happen when i tried to start it?

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/2908/1000137ek6.th.jpg (http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000137ek6.jpg)
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/9993/1000139lh6.th.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000139lh6.jpg)

then this happened

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9366/1000140gs1.th.jpg (http://img59.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000140gs1.jpg)

which lead to this

http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/8337/1000143if4.th.jpg (http://img53.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000143if4.jpg)

then tuned it around and saw this

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2729/1000141uh9.th.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000141uh9.jpg)

then came the worst looking part

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1996/1000145ti9.th.jpg (http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000145ti9.jpg)

Just wondering what could have gone wrong? I did have the battery charger hooked up to it while i was trying to start it, but ive done that many times before, so im lost. Any help would be apperciated!

[projectRDM]

You wired it wrong. The black/white is the 12V input to the MAF, white is signal out, both solid blacks are ground. Same colors as the OE MAF. You grounded the 12V input, frying that circuit. The CAS is on it too, so you probably took it out as well.

Buy a new MAF plug and ECU and redo it.

[sil_8t]

You wired it wrong. The black/white is the 12V input to the MAF, white is signal out, both solid blacks are ground. Same colors as the OE MAF. You grounded the 12V input, frying that circuit. The CAS is on it too, so you probably took it out as well.

Buy a new MAF plug and ECU and redo it.

How can i tell if the CAS is still cool? So, basically match the colors? why does it say in the write up that you should wire red w/ black/white ????

this really sucks because the ecu that just got F'd is new Enthalpy ecu that i didnt get to use... Now ive got to take my harness off and fix it.

Does anyone know if the SR20DE FWD harness plug is the same as SR20DET?

[johngriff]

Yes they are the same connector, i cannot comment to whether or not the pins are color coded right. Same goes for the CA18DE in the 88 Pulsar, same connector, no comment on color coding.

On second look, its OBVIOUS. Your 12v Black w/white stripe from the maf plug is going to chasis ground, so you sent the 12V from the Harness to The maf ground, which bounced back and got the other one.

LOL.

Usually you just see these from bad sauder connections, but you REALLY cooked the CRAP out of this.You are going to probably need a new harness, check the whole grounding bundle in the harness, i bet it is now TOAST.

His write up is bad for people who dont understand wiring, because he used the Tomei connector, not the OEM. But i mean, the Tomei Connector attempts to make it BLAREINGLY OBVIOUS THAT RED IS 12V.

You DID NOT DO THAT. Because you dont have a RED WIRE on you Connector, if you just went from pin position based on his write up you would have had it.

[sil_8t]

ouch my pride...but seriously i do suck at wiring. i looked at the wires again but i looks as if only the smaller black one is fried yet it is only fried at the ends that aren't in the OEM casing with the white one. Still have pull the harness about and try to become an electrician. This is frustrating and expensive.

[Wei240]

ouch...

yeah, if the search function don't work here, go to freshalloy, i'd triple check, quadruple check everything if i were you...

good luck

[johngriff]

Well, if you'd like, i can get a brand new OEM harness for you, do all the swap wiring, and the MAF plug to your spec, then ship it out. Might take about a week, and cost about $600 total, but if you do have trouble wiring, it is cost effective against burned ECU's.

Sorry if I seemed harsh, bjorks write up is not the best.

[sil_8t]

no its cool. It is my fault after all. i can respect someone that doesn't baby others, but ill just have to take out the harness and some how swap the plugs for the harness, and wire the MAF right. Hopefully i can savage part of the ECU.

[projectRDM]

That ECU is not salvageable. I'd pull and unwrap the entire harness but it's going to probably need replacement as well if it burned all the way inside like it is.

[johngriff]

Yeah, i am guessing it cooked the grounding junction inside as well... i want some pics!!

You can buy sheilded wire at lowes, with 2/3/4/6 wires inside the sheild. You might be able to replace it with some of this.

[sil_8t]

i looked at the harness a little bit closer before i went to work and the only wire that seems fried is the the one small black one coming off of the maf. I have not looked at other grounds though. I'll take pics of it tomorrow hopefully.

[sil_8t]

No pics, but i did buy a used harness from JHOT on ebay and i installed it along with my new ecu from Enthalpy. Wired the MAF per the instructions that i followed the first time except now i have the same plug as him, so thats cool. I am using the old coilpack and lower harnesses, but now i am having electrical problems.

PROBLEM 1- Fuel pump was not coming on when i turned the key in the on position.

SOLUTION - Wired it to a switch, supposed to be temporary.

P 2 - No spark

Sol - jumped a wire on the relay, temporary

P3 - No fuel at injectors

NO solutions yet. all four have constant power and they ground when i go to start, but it loses power when i turn the key to start it. So, why is it losing power when i try to start?

What could be causing all of these problems? If i cannot figure this stuff out would it a good idea to consider a painless wiring kit

Thanks in advance


update: Tonight i went ot a friends house and awpped ECU's and his started with my ECU so thats not the porblem.

[sil_8t]

lil help..............

[sunnys14]

check your fuses. i burned my ecu and the EGI fuse blew.