fuckin auto/manual bullshit

[Dream240]

Well....I finally got the flywheel, clutch and tranny mounted. Had a bitch of a time trying to get the tranny to close that last 1 inch onto the crank. I finally had to pull everything off and re-set the clutch disc and pressure plate. Then whamo!!! Tranny went on perfect.

Here's some questions for the experienced:
1) I'm wondering, how much pedal distance is normal? I measured mine at about 7" and that lines the clutch pedal up with the brake pedal but, the FSM calls for about 7 1/2" of distance.

2)Also the freeplay wasn't a problem but I'm curious, when do you know that you've adjusted the M/C rod too far in so that it's causing premature engagement? I adjusted it in further cause it felt like the peddle was traveling too far in before engagement.

3) And here's the grand prize!!! I bought an S13 manual driveshaft (or so I thought) from a fellow Zilvian only to find that it doesn't fit my 95' tranny!!! WTF???? The input section that goes into the tail of the tranny has a larger diameter than the tranny output shaft!! The damn thing basically doesn't go in!! Now here's the wierd part, it fits my s13 auto tranny perfectly, slid right on!! Any one have any answers? Do I need an S14 front driveshaft section or do I just have another auto driveshaft from an S13? I'm thinking that I need an S14 front section to mate up to my tranny and S13 rear driveshaft section.

Any answers????

Thanks.

[JSpecBnr32]

no s14 and s13 driveshafts are totally different, s14 driveshafts split in front of the bearing carrier and on s13 they split behind the bearing carrier so u can't mix and match s13/s14 driveshafts just won't work, and also sorry to break it to u but u bought an auto driveline

-Gleb!

[Dream240]

no s14 and s13 driveshafts are totally different, s14 driveshafts split in front of the bearing carrier and on s13 they split behind the bearing carrier so u can't mix and match s13/s14 driveshafts just won't work, and also sorry to break it to u but u bought an auto driveline

-Gleb!

You know what's funny, I actually measured the driveshaft when I got it home and put it up next to my already removed auto driveshaft, they both looked identical BTW, and the one I bought seemed longer by just a little. Must have been my bad measuring.
A quick question, the sure sign you have a S13 manual front driveshaft piece is the big dampner thing just after the splines right?

fuck...I hate liers. Wish I remember who i bought the shaft from, fuckin asshole.

Oh and after posting this thread I got my answer in the many previous auto/manual threads. So search does work guys!!!! :)

All in all the auto/manual swap is pretty simple. The worst part is the manual brake pedal install....fucking bitch.

[JSpecBnr32]

yes, unless u have a jdm s13 driveshaft which has a yoke instead of the gay ass usdm rubber dampner on the driveshaft

[Dream240]

yes, unless u have a jdm s13 driveshaft which has a yoke instead of the gay ass usdm rubber dampner on the driveshaft

Nah....I'm sure I don't have a JDM shaft. Even though.....now that I remember the guy that sold it to me said it was JDM!!! Damn liar.

Honestly the shaft looks just like my old S14 auto one!! Let me go get a pic of it for ya.....5 min.

[Dream240]

Here's a pic of the front half.

Looks like my old auto one.....bummer

Well gotta hit the junk yard first thing tomorrow!!!

[JSpecBnr32]

yep thats an auto s13 driveshaft!

[Dream240]

Bleh....well thanks for the confirmation.

Now I get to shell out ANOTHER 50 bucks!!!! :duh:

[drift freaq]

someone sold you an auto driveshaft as a manual. S13 and S14 KA trannies use the same size input shaft. The differences in the driveshafts is the center support bushing on the s14 is on the rear half of the shaft wereas on the s13 its on the front half. All auto driveshafts have a different input shaft with different splines.

[Dream240]

Yeah that's got to be it. :(

Thanks for the confirmation driftfreaq

[Dream240]

Okay, good news, the guy that sold me the shaft called me today. I found his old for sale thread. He gave me back half of my money since I ended up using the rear section.

Here's my new question: Does this look right for the spacing on the front half of the shaft? The whole driveshaft bolted up fine no fitment issues. It just looks like maybe it is too short....hmmmm. I'm not sure if this is normal spacing to allow for flexing or whatnot.

Also I've got some moderate vehicle vibration at low speeds. I'm thinking that I need to rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees. But I'm not sure....which part do I rotate? The front section or back, or both? I DID line up the white line from the front half to the differential yolk. But I'm thinking I need to rotate the rear section 180 degrees opposite the front section.

Any answers?

[projectRDM]

The spacing is fine, remember that the transmission comes with a dust collar and hides the portion you're seeing, that's why it looks weird. As long as the yoke is engaged into the output shaft you're fine.

As far as the balancing, since it's a shaft from a different car and you've swapped other parts as well you're never going to get it back dead on without having it rebalanced. You can try turning it to see if it's lessened some, but it may be worse, it's more trial and error than anything.

[Dream240]

As far as the balancing, since it's a shaft from a different car and you've swapped other parts as well you're never going to get it back dead on without having it rebalanced. You can try turning it to see if it's lessened some, but it may be worse, it's more trial and error than anything.

Where can you take your car for a rebalanced driveshaft? Never had to do that kind of balance before.

Also another development, I can hear the gears whirring, and some shifting-clunking coming from the shifter area (B&M sport shifter) when in the low gears 1st-2nd, sometimes 3rd). Is this normal? I haven't driven a manual 240 in awhile so I'm not sure how it's supposed to sound.

As far as the clutch pedal setup: I'm using a OEM M/C and S/C replacement, SS clutch line from M/C to S/C (Taka Motorsports), no leaks, I've adjust the pedal height to match the brake pedal, and I've got about 1/2" of free play before clutch disengagement.

I'm curious, how far is too far for the M/C pushrod adjustment, or is there a too far? I've got about 1/4" of the pushrod threads sticking out the front end where the locking nut is. I'm just worried taht I can push it too far in and cause the S/C to slightly engage the throwout bearing thus causing premature wear.

On more thing, I thought the clutch pedal feel was supposed to be stiff? It actually feels real smooth and easy, easier in fact than my 06' sentra!! Not problems with shifting while driving or getting into reverse, so I know that the S/C is fully functioning...hmmm just wierd. Maybe you only notice the stiffer pedal with the Stage 2+ pressure plates??????

Thanks guys.

[S14DB]

You want to adjust it till the SC is firmly on the fork.

I've test drove a few manual Nissan's from 2k2 till now. The clutches on the sentra's suck. The 07's on the Sentra and versa are horible. Like a micro clutch.

[Dream240]

UPDATE:

Well, I've been having a blast driving around my new car. Honestly a 5-speed 240 compared to auto is like night and day. Makes it feel like a brand new car. The other day I pull into my driveway, (tired from all the shifting :) ) only to find a fresh spot of oil!!!

OH NO!!!! Well yes, I am leaking out of my tranny front main AND my tranny rear main seal!! I'm thinking it was because I had such a hard time getting the tranny to mount up. Maybe all the movement screwed up the seal. As far as the rear....I know it got damaged from me trying to install the wrong driveshaft. :( So now I get to spend the New Year pulling the tranny out and redo the seals and gasket!! YAY!! It'll give me a chance to recheck the clutch and plate to make sure it's wearing properly. I've got about 400 miles on the new clutch.

Also a tip....most of u prolly already know.....using 80w-90w instead of 75w-90w in your tranny will make the cold morning shifts difficult. Learned that the hard way. Even though the FSM says 75w-90w, I used what I had already bought. Oh well.

I'm waiting for my manual ECU to arrive to test my theory on the high idle issue. I'm almost sure it's not the EGR or ICV cause it wasn't idling like that BEFORE the tranny swap.....we'll see.

Oh and also, I learned that the big metal unit that's attached to the driver's strut tower is for the PCV system. Some kind of breather. It's not an EGR component although it's still emissions related. And really the main part that needs replacing is the small diaphragm that sits on the top, held in by a bracket and 2 screws!! Hey every little bit to help gas mileage.

Update coming by Tuesday. (for anyone who cares)