SR Swap 2 months away, What should I replace???

[khilgers]

I'm starting my SR build here in 2 months, and I was wondering what I should replace on the motor while it's out of the car. Gaskets, water pump, seals???

So far I was thinking something along the lines of:

-head to manifold gasket
-turbo to manifold
-turbo to extension
-water pump
-alternator rebuild or new alternator
-valve cover gasket
-belts

Please feel free to add anything else as I will start ordering parts in the next couple weeks. I would like this swap to go as smoothly as possible and since I have time I might as well try to get everything I need to make the swap easier, and eliminate any headaches in the end.

[statik]

oil pump/timing cover(comes with front main seal installed)
rear main seal
oil pickup tube

[LookOut Nick]

http://srownersclub.com/faq/ ... search next time

[khilgers]

http://srownersclub.com/faq/ ... search next time

Do you honestly think I havn't read that? No where in there does it say anything about specific parts to replace besides the oil pan. Don't be so quick to throw around the SEARCH button next time.

[statik]

http://srownersclub.com/faq/ ... search next time

I don't see him asking for an sr swap guide

[khilgers]

oil pickup tube

could you elaborate a little more on this? Why is it an important part to replace? It is basically what the dipstick goes into isn't it? Pardon my ignorance.

[LookOut Nick]

yeah after re reading that...sorry i remebered that faq being alot more useful
my baddd

[statik]

could you elaborate a little more on this? Why is it an important part to replace? It is basically what the dipstick goes into isn't it? Pardon my ignorance.

the oil pickup tube is attached to the oil pump, it sucks up the oil to be pumped through the motor. The can get filled with nasty crap over the years so it's a good idea to replace it. All you have to do is drop the lower oil pan and remove a baffle plate, you should clean out the oil pan anyway if you plan on reusing it.

http://www.teamhpi.org/gallery/d/356-2/DSC00315.JPG

that's with the upper pan removed as well, though it doesn't have to be

[khilgers]

I was planning on dropping the oil pan for cleaning purposes. And if it is dented I plan on replacing it. Thanks for going a little more in depth on the oil pickup tube. Anything else?

[datboibrad]

get rid of the redtop oil pickup and get a black top one. OR cut and widen the mouth on your redtop pickup.

[khilgers]

I should have stated earlier that I wll be going with an S14 SR motor.

[g6civcx]

Replace or at least rebuild all external components. Check the SR FAQ at the top for specific info.

[brainfood]

Doing mine in about a week and these are the parts I ordered (lots so I may have missed some)

Greddy Oil Pan
Greddy type-s bov
Greddy Oil Catch can
Greddy Profec-b 2 boost controller
Apex'i Turbo Timer
Hks Intake
FMIC
Koyo Rad
Flexalite dual fans w/thermo
Circuit Sports o2/downpipe
New oe pickup tube
new o2 sensor
Coolant/oil/trans fluid
kazama motor mounts
exedy hiper single kit w/flywheel
some nismo clutch ish.
Samco Hoses
New v-belts
already have nismo trans mount

Also spent a lot of time cleaning up the motor and stripping all the old parts off that I didnt need. IE stock catch can, ac comp and brackets.... ect.

[WilloW]

Below is what I did:
-changed and rerouted the heater hose behind the head for the heater.
-Changed all the coolant hoses under the intake manifold.
-Changed the fuel and vacuum lines.
-Cleaned and repainted all the metal hoses (coolant).
-New thermostat. (Nissan)
-New clamps for all the new hoses.
-new water pump. (Nissan)
-new front cover/oil pump with new front main seal. (s14 Nissan)
-new rear main seal. (Nissan)
-took apart the intake manifold and cleaned the inside.
-Cleaned the AAC and replace AAC gasket.
-New intake manifold gaskets (2).
-New exhaust manifold gasket (multiplayer metal from S15 SR).
-New valve cover gasket.
-New turbo gaskets (all)
-Clean and inspect oil pickup for damages.
-Cleaned throttle body and with new throttle body gasket.
-Cleaned the inside of all the stock piping and the intercooler.
-Cleaned the outside of the block and head so that it would be easier later to spot leaks.
-O-rings for injectors, since I took everything apart for cleaning I figured I might as well replace it.
-New gasket for the oil pickup tube.
*If you've got a redtop, upgrade to a blacktop pickup.
-New gasket for the chain tensioner.
-New chain tensioner
-New pilot and throw out bearings (your clutch kit might come with new ones already)

After doing all that, I figured I might as well do a rebuilt.

[g6civcx]

-Cleaned the inside of all the stock piping and the intercooler.


Best tip ever. You have no idea how much gunk builds up on the inside. Same with your coolant passages.

[WilloW]

Best tip ever. You have no idea how much gunk builds up on the inside. Same with your coolant passages.
Thanks for reminding me about the coolant passages. One other place I I've found alot of gunk was in the intake manifold, took me almost an hour, 2 cans of carb cleaner, a toothbrush, and a metal brush to get all the crap out. Tha AAC valve was a dirty little whore too, I literally had to take a metal pick to it to get all the crap off.

[khilgers]

thanks for the help guys, theres a lot of stuff there I didn't even think about. Keep em' coming, good info guys. I appreciate it.

[ranger2339]

Pretty dam good thread!!!!


Ax

[SiI40sx]

Below is what I did:
-changed and rerouted the heater hose behind the head for the heater.
-Changed all the coolant hoses under the intake manifold.
-Changed the fuel and vacuum lines.
-Cleaned and repainted all the metal hoses (coolant).
-New thermostat. (Nissan)
-New clamps for all the new hoses.
-new water pump. (Nissan)
-new front cover/oil pump with new front main seal. (s14 Nissan)
-new rear main seal. (Nissan)
-took apart the intake manifold and cleaned the inside.
-Cleaned the AAC and replace AAC gasket.
-New intake manifold gaskets (2).
-New exhaust manifold gasket (multiplayer metal from S15 SR).
-New valve cover gasket.
-New turbo gaskets (all)
-Clean and inspect oil pickup for damages.
-Cleaned throttle body and with new throttle body gasket.
-Cleaned the inside of all the stock piping and the intercooler.
-Cleaned the outside of the block and head so that it would be easier later to spot leaks.
-O-rings for injectors, since I took everything apart for cleaning I figured I might as well replace it.
-New gasket for the oil pickup tube.
*If you've got a redtop, upgrade to a blacktop pickup.
-New gasket for the chain tensioner.
-New chain tensioner
-New pilot and throw out bearings (your clutch kit might come with new ones already)

After doing all that, I figured I might as well do a rebuilt.

damn makes me not wanna do a swap, how many of those actually have 100% priority to changing? how many have like 50?

[g6civcx]

Don't get into the pitfall of expecting to buy a used motor that's been sitting in a junkyard for years and be able to use it without any reconditioning. That assumption will come back to haunt you when you have to fish the motor out and rebuild the whole thing because some minor part has failed, and that failure caused catastrophic failure on the motor.

That's why he rebuilt everything. It's for reliability and peace of mind. Plus it's really really easy to do when the engine is out. Once you drop it into the body it's very hard to get to.

[khilgers]

Any suggestions for places to order all of these parts? It would be nice to be able to get everything at one place.

[broken240sx]

in my experience, there is never one place you can order everthing from. Shopping for carparts can be like negotiating a minefield.

Ive had good experiences with SPL, summit racing, and my nissan dealer (allthough he's a fool, total burnout)

everbody else has lets me down...

good luck

and when you drop the motor in, unbolt the input from the driveshaft if you are using a USDM one, and stick it in the back of the tranny. I hate tracking 75w-90 all over the driveway

[khilgers]

I am going to be doing the 5 speed swap with a DriveShaftShop driveshaft, but thanks for the tip.

[TurK]

makes me wish i did all this before my swap....my motor still runs like a champ though just to goes to show you how reliable these motors are.... in the future i plan on getting a motor stand and replace prettymuch everything.

[WilloW]

Don't get into the pitfall of expecting to buy a used motor that's been sitting in a junkyard for years and be able to use it without any reconditioning. That assumption will come back to haunt you when you have to fish the motor out and rebuild the whole thing because some minor part has failed, and that failure caused catastrophic failure on the motor.

That's why he rebuilt everything. It's for reliability and peace of mind. Plus it's really really easy to do when the engine is out. Once you drop it into the body it's very hard to get to.
You took the words out of my mouth, I'm not the preachy type that's why I didn't mentioned this earlier. After years of seeing these swap and clips and the condition that they are in by the time they get to us, I would not go through any less before putting a used engine in my car. I made the same mistake before that's why I'm doing all this.

Parts like the hoses underneath the intake manifold are an absolute bitch to work on after the motor is in the car. And then the front cover, oh boy...All the hoses were very cheap, I got all of them from Autozone with various diameters and bends and they worked out just fine. All the Nissan parts I bought from Courtesy, Perfomance, and Superior Nissan (came out to about $250 give and take some).

The list that I posted earlier is based on my standard of what needed to be done, some would look at it as unecessary, but to me it is insurance for my time and sparing myself a few bloody knuckles.

A few more things I would like to add to that list:
1. Steering rack bushing (since the motor is out already)
2. Engine & Transmission mounts.
3. Clean the oil spray bar in the head.
*some of the Sentra guys even take a small drill bit to the spray holes to make sure that they won't clog up in the future* (I'm not doing this mod unless I find some hard eveidence that it is necessary)
4. Get an S14 water neck, or find a more convenience way to run the cooland line that goes behind the head.
5. Drop your oil pan and pound it out to the point where you have a nice dish.
*Do this even if yout oil pan lok just fine. My oil pan looked fine, but when I drop it to inspect the pick-up I saw a nice little indentation from the mouth of the oil pick up in the bottom of the pan (if I had a Redtop, I would be shitting bricks right about now.)*
6. Get new radiator hoses.

That's all folks, or atleast all that I could remember at this point...sorry for the long post. Good luck to all that's doing this, just think about bench pressing tranny under your S-chasis, and bloody knuckles under the intake manifold :hammer: to get you motivated.

[khilgers]

do you need to buy different heater core hoses, or can you bend an manipulate the ones that come with the motor?

[WilloW]

do you need to buy different heater core hoses, or can you bend an manipulate the ones that come with the motor?
I ended up buying a U-bend and did not have to manipulate the original line.
To the owner of this pic, I liked the way you set up your swap that's why I used it. If you want me to take it off please let me know,and thanks for showing me a clean way to rerout those lines.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/WilloW0024/linesrouting.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/WilloW0024/SR-Rear.jpg
You could also just order these lines from Heavythrottle or P2, I just chose to make my own:D .
Edit: When I said "these lines" I did not implies that the lines in the pictures are from Heavy Throttle or P2. Like what "g6civcx" said, that was part of the reason why I made my own line. If I have time tomorrow I could look up the side and the part number for the lines.

[g6civcx]

For the heater lines, I do NOT recommend Heavy Throttle. The top line fits perfectly, but the bottom line does not fit.

The JDM engine has 3/4" heater hose fittings. The USDM body has 5/8" heater core fittings. The HT kit has the lower line as a 3/4" hose throughout. You can figure out why it leaks.

If you search my posts, you can find the part numbers and piece together your own top line, and figure out how to piece together the bottom line.

[voiddweller]

WilloW:

Is this a pick of a modified Blacktop Oil Pickup or is it stock?

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/WilloW0024/oilpickupsblackvs.jpg

P.S.

If you still have the part numbers and wouldn't mind posting them, it would be helpful before I head to Autozone.

Thanks!

[WilloW]

WilloW:

Is this a pick of a modified Blacktop Oil Pickup or is it stock?

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/WilloW0024/oilpickupsblackvs.jpg

P.S.

If you still have the part numbers and wouldn't mind posting them, it would be helpful before I head to Autozone.

Thanks!
Looking from the top it would appear to be just a regular S13 blacktop pickup. You could modify the redtop pickup to look like that, but then the redtop pickup still has its flaw compared to the blacktop's. As for the hoses, I didn't record any of the numbers but i will check for future reference. I've got to take care of this Calculus exam first then I'll get to the hoses for you.

[ManoNegra]

For the heater lines, I do NOT recommend Heavy Throttle. The top line fits perfectly, but the bottom line does not fit.

The JDM engine has 3/4" heater hose fittings. The USDM body has 5/8" heater core fittings. The HT kit has the lower line as a 3/4" hose throughout. You can figure out why it leaks.

If you search my posts, you can find the part numbers and piece together your own top line, and figure out how to piece together the bottom line.

I used 3/4 to 5/8 adapter sold at Pep Boys for a couple of bucks.