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View Full Version : Dangerous suspenion problem!!


SiI40sx
09-01-2006, 01:43 AM
Ok this is freakin werid!! My car has s-tech's and tokicos all around brand new. 15x7 205/55 in front and 16x7 225/50 in the rear. When driving the car sometimes feels like the rear of the car moves but the front of the car doesnt, it feels like the car twist and is driving at an angle, then sometimes when turning slowly with the freeway (when it curves) the car feels like it goes straight even when im slowly turning the wheel. The car feels really loose like it doesnt drive straight, but it seems to handle ok when i drive it hard on turns, etc. Any ideas??? If I dont figure it out Im just going to take it to my mechanic see if theres something he can find

arminder_d
09-01-2006, 01:47 AM
Thats called dog tracking. Really wierd though for independent rear suspension it generally occurs on a solid rear axel set up. Could be your rear subframe isnt sitting straight....or you need a rear wheel alignment.

SiI40sx
09-01-2006, 01:50 AM
so far pimpflex is going with an alingment problem, what do u guys think??

arminder_d
09-01-2006, 01:52 AM
Yea if your rear wheels have a wacky toe setting and are pointing in the same direction your dog track like no tomrrow.

SiI40sx
09-01-2006, 02:01 AM
Ok Im going to look into that tomorrow, this never happened to me on stock suspension so did i tweak the alingment with lowering the car? Because my car has been in a wreck by previous owner and Im scared that my rear subframe is messed up

Vatche
09-01-2006, 02:06 AM
yeh my car sometimes does stuff like that.. or used too...i had full alignment and it doesnt do it anymore, but the front still feels like shit because its been hit

lswang
09-01-2006, 02:14 AM
i had the same exact problem after i look off my rear links. check your alignment.

redsuns3838
09-01-2006, 02:40 AM
is it pretty noisy when u go over speedbumps? or potholes? could be subframe...

arminder_d
09-01-2006, 11:55 AM
Lol you could have royally fucked soemthing while doing the spring and shock install. I can't remember how toe is adjusted on the rear in a 240 but this could be the wacky result. If you havent hit anything i dont think the subframe could have developed very much play....while your under there check it out anyways, bushings, links, everything.

drift freaq
09-01-2006, 12:09 PM
Ok Im going to look into that tomorrow, this never happened to me on stock suspension so did i tweak the alingment with lowering the car? Because my car has been in a wreck by previous owner and Im scared that my rear subframe is messed up

That is possilbe, I had a 240 in the past that had been hit in the rear quarter and bent one of the links slightly which then cracked. The wheels had been aligned after it had been bent slightly so it did not pop up immediatly.
It felt like your describing right before I discovered the crack.
I would say inspect all rear suspension components very carefully before just moving forward with an alignment.

trsilvias13
09-01-2006, 12:13 PM
Mines did that when a the toe bolt fell out.

the head
09-01-2006, 12:36 PM
provided the suspension is in good shape (no damaged arms) you need an alignment toe is probably out too much and the car is tramlining because of it
I have also seen that problem if your tires are really cambered and severly worn look at the inside tread of the tire see if that may be the issue as well.

thundering02
09-01-2006, 12:38 PM
Lateral (panhard?) bar on my friend ae86 broke and was doing something similar

SiI40sx
09-01-2006, 03:29 PM
well it wasnt doing this on stock suspension? Could it be that lowering it tweaked out the alingment? Im scared about my subframe dude!! Im taking it to an alingment shop today, Im going to wish for the best!

ManoNegra
09-01-2006, 05:12 PM
You changed components that altered the geometry of the suspension so def. an alignment is called for. If you're worried about the previous owner - and I would by the sounds of it - go ahead and do a through inspection. Good luck.

SiI40sx
09-02-2006, 01:16 AM
yea thx mano, took it to an alingment shop today, and wtf?! they couldnt get my tein s-tech lowered 240 on their alingment system thingy lol?? SO taking it tomorrow to another shop

Vatche
09-02-2006, 03:08 AM
haha you have some bad luck man, but definately when u lower a car it changes the geometry and u have to adjust settings. you should be fine after u align it, if not then you can say u have a problem :)

bo2o
09-02-2006, 03:34 AM
take it to a alighment shop....

ur rear toe is off

becareful theres been fake s techs goin around just so you know

just make sure none of the writing on your springs are stickers

SiI40sx
09-02-2006, 03:51 AM
take it to a alighment shop....

ur rear toe is off

becareful theres been fake s techs goin around just so you know

just make sure none of the writing on your springs are stickers

buying ur shit from a dealership ftw! :bigok: I never buy shit from some unknown "jdm" shop

Replicant_S14
09-02-2006, 06:06 AM
When driving the car sometimes feels like the rear of the car moves but the front of the car doesnt,

Do you know that your subframe bushings are ok? If you've never done anything with them, they probably aren't. If the subframe squirms around even a little bit, it changes the thrust angle and you'd be able to feel that as you drive.

... and yeah, as the others mentioned: you can't lower the IRS without changing the camber/toe.

papi13
09-02-2006, 07:14 AM
...i think your car's suspension is too stiff...because its really low to the ground

'90RPS13
09-02-2006, 11:16 AM
Sounds like the same thing my car is going through. I am in need of changing the subframes spacers. Might wanna check them out too. *a

emperor_lunchbox
09-02-2006, 11:43 AM
whats the spring rates on the the S techs?
I could be that the sidewalls on the tires are flexing causing lateral movement.
I have that problem when I run 15's or 16's on a 50 or 55 tire. Try pushing the top of the car, see if it wobbles. You may just need a stiffer sidewall tire or a lower profile as well as the above mentioned subframe parts.

SiI40sx
09-02-2006, 12:52 PM
would subframe spacers do the trick? I saw the write up on installing them and seems really sinchy

gotta240
09-02-2006, 02:42 PM
My vote goes to f'd up allignment because you CHANGED something.

SiI40sx
09-04-2006, 06:50 AM
maaannn turns out i might need a new rack n pinion and that my tierods have too much play making it not able to align my car?? i dunno thats what this alingment shop states, $350 for new rack n pinion with lifetime warranty installed, there goes $350 away from my sr swap! GAY! should I investigate this more or should I just take the deal and have them fix it? My boots are gone but i do still have power steering and dont really feel any loss? What do you guys think? thx

mistaanime
09-04-2006, 08:38 AM
thats stupid...its clearly alignment..problem..where are you located? ive had this issue before..but found out my car's alingment was just fucked up because of all the suspension work i put in it..i toook it down to motorsport dynamics and got my car re-aligned and now its great....motorsport just closed down..not too long ago but there are always other shops...don't tell them what you have done..just let them know you just need an alignment..

SiI40sx
09-04-2006, 04:58 PM
yeah i was going to go some other shops before I even considering doing the $350 method, I highly doubt my rack n pinion is fucked up and the only thing is that i need new boots

projectRDM
09-04-2006, 07:37 PM
How many miles on your car? And everything else is still stock?

If that's the case and you're over 60k miles, the front tie rod ends and tension rod bushings are blown. NO questions about it. That's more than likely why the shop is looking to replace the rack. Worn tie rod ends can easily move around, up to 1/8 under load, which would seriously affect the toe at high speed. As for the rest of the car, lowering it changes the suspension's geometry, you've increased both toe in and negative camber in the rear, even if it was only a 1inch drop, so of course the alignment is now out. Combined with worn parts in the front, surely worn subframe bushings, and more than likely a steering shaft coupler that's seen better days and it's no wonder the car is dogtracking.

Replace the worn front end parts, drop the subframe and check the bushings, then get a proper four wheel alignment. That's just common sense. Anytime you alter the suspension of the car you're changing the OE settings, no matter how small it may seem to you.

SiI40sx
09-04-2006, 10:05 PM
How many miles on your car? And everything else is still stock?

If that's the case and you're over 60k miles, the front tie rod ends and tension rod bushings are blown. NO questions about it. That's more than likely why the shop is looking to replace the rack. Worn tie rod ends can easily move around, up to 1/8 under load, which would seriously affect the toe at high speed. As for the rest of the car, lowering it changes the suspension's geometry, you've increased both toe in and negative camber in the rear, even if it was only a 1inch drop, so of course the alignment is now out. Combined with worn parts in the front, surely worn subframe bushings, and more than likely a steering shaft coupler that's seen better days and it's no wonder the car is dogtracking.

Replace the worn front end parts, drop the subframe and check the bushings, then get a proper four wheel alignment. That's just common sense. Anytime you alter the suspension of the car you're changing the OE settings, no matter how small it may seem to you.

Dude thanks a lot Russ! Should I replace the tension rod bushings with oem ones or what would you suggest? Are subframe spacers like bushings or are they an add on? Oem Subframe bushing too? And of course replace the innner and outer tie rods with which? Sorry for so many questions but ive never changed any suspension parts on my car before so Im not sure which parts are more ideal for basic street / canyon driving, thanks again!

projectRDM
09-05-2006, 01:56 AM
It's all up to you.

Tension rod bushings, four options:

1) OEM, comes in a new rod, about $65 each
2) Nismo, slightly harder durometer rubber, must be pressed in, don't recall price
3) Energy Suspension, urethane, 3piece design, less than $40, press in
4) Full pillowball, steel rod, adjustable

Same for the tie rod ends, you don't need new tie rods unless you're upgrading to S14 or Z32 which are larger diameter. Rod ends, Moog or TRW for OE style, SPL or similiar for pillowball.

Subframe, just get spacers. Do a search, more noise transmitted but easy install and cancels out all unwanted movement. The softer choice would be new ES bushings (or Nismo) which require burning out/pressing in, considerable amount of work for the average wrench hand.

But as always, do the alignment after all work is completed. Just dropping the subframe can slightly alter the settings, as will any replacement piece you install.