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View Full Version : Proper Clutch Break-In


Pacman
06-25-2006, 05:32 PM
I changed my clutch out yesterday to a XTD 6-puck and 11LBS chrom-moly flywheel. I've never had to break-in a clutch yet, let alone a puck-style clutch. From searching, I found that you want to take it easy on it (I shift at 3100, not taking it higher than 3500RPM), no clutch kicks, and don't ride the clutch. Is there anything else I should be doing to break it in properly and get the most mileage out of it? I have about 40 miles on it right now, all easy driving, and the clutch requires a 500 mile break-in.

infinitexsound
06-25-2006, 05:44 PM
just drive it easy.... for a few hundred miles... thats all

Pacman
06-25-2006, 07:20 PM
So I have the basic idea then.

My next question, would it feel like the clutch is slipping during break in? Sometimes the car will jerk climbing hills from 2000 to 3000rpm. After that, its fine. It didn't do it with the old clutch, and the new one was clean. Its doesn't do it all the time or in all gears, usually in second, sometimes in third. I thought it was my #1 fuel injector since it wasn't firing. The injector will fire now so maybe its clogged a little. I put injector cleaner in the tank to see if that helps it. Theres 40 miles on it so its far from being broken in. Could the pedal need adjustment? The slave and master aren't leaking and theres plenty of fluid in them. Any help or need of decifering what I'm saying?

sean350z
06-25-2006, 09:00 PM
i just installed an ACT street for SR transmission, driven about 100 miles never getting above 4k, and mine hasn't slipped once even going up hills...i didn't think you had to "break in" a clutch...but i'd image you are doing the right thing with taking it easy for the first hundred or so miles.

if it keeps doing it you should check your pedal to make sure you are fully engaging and disengaging

91ka
06-25-2006, 09:17 PM
wow... thats torture haha

SilviaSR20DET
06-26-2006, 03:41 AM
i have a xtd stage 2 clutch and i think i know what your talking aobut. i think it maybe the clutch pedal adjustment that needs to be adjusted and i think thats aobut hte only thing that will make it smoother engaging. i never got around adjusting my pedal yet so myabe ill try it and see what happens. however, i dont know if i have the same problem as you but mine engages really high so i think that maybe our problem

Pacman
06-26-2006, 02:18 PM
I'll check out the clutch pedal but I'm really thinking it engine troubles now. I was driving last night and when I used half throtlle or less up hills, the engine would do as described in the last post. If I gave it closer to full throttle, it would be fine. It leads me to believe its the one injector, maybe a fouled plug, or something along those lines. Theres no codes so I'm starting with that.

240DriftKid
11-04-2006, 10:03 PM
hey i just got a xtd stage 3 6 puck installed in my ka24de and my car just has exhaust and header and a cold air intake...
was it a bad idea to get a 6 puck?
when i let the clutch out in first gear like the car starts to kinda shake, sumtimes it will shake alot. so i let the clutch out really fast so it wont do that. is that how a stage 3 is? you cant let the clutch out slowley taking off?
thanks

articdragon192
11-04-2006, 10:06 PM
Thats just how 6 pucks are. Usually with puck style clutches, you don't really have to break them in the way you break in full face disks. However since you also got a new flywheel installed, just normal driving for about 500 miles will do it good. The slipping shouldn't happen though. I recently installed an RPS 6 puck and it never slipped. I mean, it's a freaking 6 puck, lol. They grab harder than a little kid holding a porno.

240DriftKid
11-04-2006, 10:11 PM
i got my flywheel resurfaced...
not a new one i was broke and needed a clutch fast

GSXRJJordan
11-05-2006, 01:30 AM
arcticdragon is right here, in the sense that 'puck' style clutches don't need the same type of break in as a full face clutch... actually, some people say the bets way to break em in is a full throttle launch, but those type of people are going for max grip, minimum life :)

The surging isnt going to be caused by the clutch, unless you have the engagement point set so high that even when the pedal is all the way out, the clutch isn't fully engaged. Barring this scenario, the clutch is most likely not the issue (if it's a clamping issue, more throttle wouldn't fix it, it'd make it worse).

Damn just saw that you're talkin about a KA too... I thought only JDM motors had surge problems ;)

ManoNegra
11-05-2006, 01:58 PM
So I have the basic idea then.

My next question, would it feel like the clutch is slipping during break in? Sometimes the car will jerk climbing hills from 2000 to 3000rpm. After that, its fine. It didn't do it with the old clutch, and the new one was clean. Its doesn't do it all the time or in all gears, usually in second, sometimes in third. I thought it was my #1 fuel injector since it wasn't firing. The injector will fire now so maybe its clogged a little. I put injector cleaner in the tank to see if that helps it. Theres 40 miles on it so its far from being broken in. Could the pedal need adjustment? The slave and master aren't leaking and theres plenty of fluid in them. Any help or need of decifering what I'm saying?

Could be an effect from the lighter flywheel.