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View Full Version : New Clutch Install - Clutch Slipping (yes, I searched)


fogleroller
05-06-2006, 04:55 PM
**FIXED**

I just completed a clutch install. When I took it out for a test drive, I noticed that the clutch slips in any gear if you give too much gas. I brought it back to the garage and checked the adjustment on the master cylinder rod and then I bed it again. I am still having the same problem.

New parts: Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, hard clutch line (eliminated the dampner box), stock FW resurfaced, 240Z pressure plate and clutch disk, and throwout bearing. I also changed the seals (rear main, and tranny)


I wondered if I put in the clutch disk wrong, but it would only fit one way. I bled the system another time, and no bubbles.

I did a search and I found similar posts and all the remedy's were to bleed the system or adjust the rod.

any help is appreciated. Thanks!

**FIXED**

240silvia
05-06-2006, 05:28 PM
Did you do anything with the flywheel? If not, that is your problem. It's best that you get another one, just stock replactment, or, at least get the one you have re-surfaced. Where did you get the clutch from? If it is from an auto parts store, it will have a warranty. So, this is what you do assuming you left the flywheel alone. Take everything back apart, take the flywheel and try to get it resurfaced at a local machine shop. Take the clutch back to the store and replace it with another. Just tell them that it slips. Odds are you glazed the clutch disc with the regular flywheel. One last thing, have fun... lol.

fogleroller
05-06-2006, 05:44 PM
Oh yeah, forgot to mention, I had the stock flywheel resurfaced.

mrmephistopheles
05-06-2006, 06:17 PM
Did adjusting the rod have any effect?
I don't remember the parts list since its been so long, but was a 240Z TO bearing necessary for the 240Z clutch?
Try rebleeding too.

fogleroller
05-06-2006, 06:36 PM
no effect. I used a 240sx TO bearing. That might be it :(

I wonder if I can use a shorter slave cylinder rod?

NIK90s13
05-06-2006, 10:15 PM
Did you over ajust the rod so that is still engaging some? Is there some free play at the top?

fogleroller
05-07-2006, 07:40 AM
yes, there is free play.

240sxfan1320
05-07-2006, 08:00 AM
Did you use some brake cleaner on the Flywheel surface and Preasure plate surface? Just to make sure it is clean and super dry/oil free
I've seen it before where someone was doing a clutch change and didn't bother cleaning the flywheel an preasure plate surfaces before putting the new clutch in, then put the greasy/oily hands all over it while installing and after the install the clutch kept slipping

phrozen
05-07-2006, 01:38 PM
did u change ur seals?.

aznpoopy
05-07-2006, 02:36 PM
did u change ur seals?.

ack. that would suck big time.

hopefully you're not leaking from the engine rear main or the tranny front gasket.

fogleroller
05-07-2006, 07:51 PM
I also changed the seals (rear main, and tranny)

revolutionz_s13
05-07-2006, 09:08 PM
did you torque down the pressure plate correctly? if the pressure plate isn't seated right, that would cause it. also, did you change the throw out bearing? and if so, did you grease the shaft it slides on? maybe its not disengageing(sp?) all the way....

NemeGuero
05-07-2006, 09:23 PM
You're most likely gonna have to drop the tranny. Might as well just do it and see if you can figure out what is wrong.

dopeassjackson
05-08-2006, 05:29 AM
when you had the fly wheel reserfaced did you have them mill a step in it? thats needed.

try this un bolt the slave from the tranny with it in 2nd. then take a couple laps around a parking lot to see if it slips, this will ruel out the hydrolic system.

what side of the clutch disc did you put towards the fly wheel?

nissantuner22
05-08-2006, 06:02 AM
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if its installed backwards, does the clutch even work at all?

scca_civic
05-08-2006, 09:59 AM
My problem with my clutch was air in the line --- it took forever to get the air out --- I took out the dampener and ran a full bottle through the lines. After that - my clutch worked perfectly.

Creizai
05-08-2006, 02:31 PM
I have a very shitty F1 Ebay clutch 20% over stock holding power. The engagment is way to high and starts slipping after 10 - 30 minutes of hardcore drifting. I have to let it cool off, the clutch has less than 5k miles on it. I did not replace any seals (I did not even see a place that would need to be replaced, I got my flywheel resurfaced. If I go from second to 3rd or even just drag race normally the clutch slips.

dopeassjackson
05-08-2006, 03:58 PM
if your engagement is way to high then you need to adjust it down on the clutch MC inside the car its probaly not all the way disengagued when your driving.

Monkey Boy
05-08-2006, 05:12 PM
i had this problem too after changing my clutch master and slave. you have to fiddle with the adjustment on the clutch pedal inside your car as well as the top stopper for the pedal. there is a button thing that stops the pedal from going higher. you might have to change that setting too. also air might be one problem.

whenever i stepped on the gas past 2.5k rpm the revs would just go high with the car going nowhere. after adjusting the pedal it holds.

SRd240sx
05-08-2006, 08:01 PM
i doubt this happened to you, but my friend, after a clutch install, adjusted his clutch pedal so there was 0 play. well he adjusted it so much that it was actually engaged while his foot was off the pedal. it eventually killed his clutch after about 2 weeks or so, ahah

tre
05-08-2006, 08:33 PM
I didnt bother reading past the 2nd post but anyways.

I always give my brand new clutch disc a very good rinsing down with brake part cleaning. ANY oil/grease on it will cause it to slip and you will have it slipping like that for the LONGEST time till the grease/oil goes away.

fogleroller
05-21-2006, 02:31 PM
Did adjusting the rod have any effect?
I don't remember the parts list since its been so long, but was a 240Z TO bearing necessary for the 240Z clutch?
Try rebleeding too.


YES! You are correct. I used the 240sx TO bearing. Today I shortened the Slave Cylinder rod by about 5mm, and I can now do a burn out!!!

Thanks Kev, it was your comment that led me to the fix!