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View Full Version : Lower Control Arm Ball Joint.. MOOG or NOt?


gotta240
05-03-2006, 09:02 PM
I am going to replace both my front lower ball joints.......

Are moog lower ball joints oK? Any other suggestions? thanks.

oh...and basically ALL of my suspension is done, and the car will be driven hard/on the track as well.

mjjstang
05-03-2006, 09:11 PM
damn i just fucked mine up today (when taking spindle off i beat it with a hammer and screwed up the threads cuz im a dumbass who didnt put the nut on before i did that) but was gonna replace the whole arm, rear. are they easy to change. I dont like parts with grease fittings. but im sure they will be good. just dont forget to grease them from time to time.

gotta240
05-03-2006, 09:14 PM
you could try a tap and dye set on those messed up threads...

but can anyone give me opinions on the

MOOG lower ball joints???

upSLIDEdown
05-04-2006, 12:41 AM
MOOG ball joints are great. Go for it. As far as teh stripped threads, try a die set. If it's bad, take a cutoff wheel on a dremel and make the end of the first thread very prominent so it doesn't thread on crooked. The rear ball joints are NOT replacable separately, only the fronts. You have the buy the whole RLCA to get the rears.

gotta240
05-04-2006, 08:56 AM
great. thanks... i'm just doing the fronts for now.

g6civcx
05-04-2006, 09:08 AM
I was looking into getting these. They look really nice: http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/pdmcontrolarms.html

you could try a tap and dye set on those messed up threads...

Just as an FYI, if you're looking in the catalogue it may be listed as "tap and die" as well.

MOOG is like OEM. If that's what you're looking for then it's good.

AzNCmB
05-04-2006, 09:23 AM
i have moog ball joints for a year now, they are great, my front suspension is also complete so i dont really notice a difference in feel...

but i do know that there's no clunking, no busted boots, and it feels tight up front...

240trainee
05-04-2006, 09:26 AM
I'm using whatever Advance Auto parts sold me for $27, lol. I'm sure it'll be fine.

g6civcx
05-04-2006, 09:31 AM
I'm using whatever Advance Auto parts sold me for $27, lol. I'm sure it'll be fine.

Sounds like Moog. Advance carries them.

It's amazing how even stock bushings feel compared to sloppy worn out parts. You don't need super drift JDM style to have good feel.

gotta240
05-04-2006, 02:58 PM
g6civix- meh...thats too much.... I think your looking at the price of the s13's...the s14 arms cost a lot more....

Just send me your stocks, and i'll buy poly bushings, new ball joints, and install everything and send it back for half the cost....lol... yup 256 or something and you'll have both sides....lol

bluuuurr
05-04-2006, 08:33 PM
I have moog's in the front, compared to the worn out OEM's, they feel a world better..

g6civcx
05-05-2006, 10:29 AM
g6civix- meh...thats too much.... I think your looking at the price of the s13's...the s14 arms cost a lot more....

Where did I quote prices? I'm confused :-/

aznpoopy
05-05-2006, 11:44 AM
i think hes referring to the pdm lca's

s13 = 50 bucks
s14 = .... 180 stock bushings. 250 with poly.

i think the dealer sells the s14 arm with new ball joint and rubber bushing for about 120 per arm. dunno why pdm is so expensive with s14 ones.

mjjstang
05-05-2006, 02:06 PM
so explain 2 things to me,

1. with the greasable fitting how often should it be greased up.
2. what is involved with replacing front ball joint, how do you get it out.

2 is more of a "im to lazy to search" kind of thing, so if you bitch at me about not searching, im over it, just dont answer, ill figure it out myself. hell i havent even looked at my arm yet. just wonderin.

n2motorsports
05-05-2006, 04:44 PM
moog is great but if you're spending 30-40 each on then, why not pay a little more for the PDM ones. it's an entire arm with new ball joints and bushing already pressed in. literally a 15min job. i know b/c i just did it.

aznpoopy
05-05-2006, 05:03 PM
so explain 2 things to me,

1. with the greasable fitting how often should it be greased up.
2. what is involved with replacing front ball joint, how do you get it out.


not clear on the greasing as i haven't done this myself yet.

technically you're supposed to use a press for removal and install. however, some people just bang it out with a hammer and a vice.

harbor freight sells a DIY balljoint kit for $20. it's really just a c-clamp and a few bits of metal for receival/delivery. works fine, or so i've heard.

to get it off the spindle, just bang on it with a hammer. they also sell a special tool that prys it out. i think harbor freight has that too.

gotta240
05-05-2006, 05:25 PM
Well.... I am having a fucking bitch of a time getting this thing out!!!!!!!!


5lb sledge- NO CIGAR.

Ball Joint Tool- WRONG SIZES. There isn't the proper sleve that goes on the underside of my ball joint....
FUCK.

slideways2004
05-05-2006, 06:12 PM
Well.... I am having a fucking bitch of a time getting this thing out!!!!!!!!


5lb sledge- NO CIGAR.

Ball Joint Tool- WRONG SIZES. There isn't the proper sleve that goes on the underside of my ball joint....
FUCK.

just hit the spindle part and it should pop out.

theicecreamdan
05-05-2006, 06:27 PM
moog is great but if you're spending 30-40 each on then, why not pay a little more for the PDM ones. it's an entire arm with new ball joints and bushing already pressed in. literally a 15min job. i know b/c i just did it.

why spend the extra for somebody else to do the 15 minutes worth of work? Its easy enough to DIY on the cheap.