V8 240sx FAQ

[blu808]

Ok guys and gals. Post up any questions you have regarding a v8 motor swap into a 240sx,

Weights:
KA with Auto, Cat and accessories = 596 lbs.
LS1 w/ T56, headers, and accessories = 468 lbs

That's right folks. The iron block four cylinder is 128 pounds heavier than the aluminum LS1!

LT1: 300hp Iron block, aluminum head.

Ls1: 350hp/350tq All aluminum

Ls6: Corvette Zo6 engines. 2001 year ls6 385hp/tq

Ls6: Corvette Z06 engines. 2002 and up = 405hp/tq

Ls2: C6 corvette/Gto engine. 400hp/400tq Big difference in low end.

Ls7: C6 zo6 corvette engine. 500hp/tq dry sump oil system.

Trannys.

all L series motors can use the following.

T5 5 speed. (lighest of the bunch.) Only good to about 400hp.
T56 6 speed. Viper tranny. enough said. ls1, and lt1 t56 are different.
4l60e automatic. ehh.


ECU. All Lsx ecu modules are basically a stand alone, once you get the tuning software. ls1 edit, hp tuners, etc.

all this and it gets 30mpg on the fwy btw ftw imho lol


Anyways.
There is a ton of aftermarket parts for these motors, they are also easy to work on.
They also make a crap load of power. They are also really responsive to mods. Check it out.
a stock 2002 ls1 makes 350hp/350tq at the flywheel.
My motor only has:
Mild cam (thunder racing 224/224)
Comp cams dual valve springs. Required for any cam swap.
Comp racing titainium retainers. Recomended for high rpm shit.
Crom-moly pushrods. Recomended if using a big cam or high hp.
March underdrive (dampened) crank pulley
160 deg t stat (needed)
JTR Headers
Reflashed ecu
Aluminum belt tensioner
Aluminum ps pulley
Hinson cold air intake
Shock Drifting 3" exhaust

With only these minor mods the motor made.
444hp at the crank. and 444tq at the crank.

On the dyno i had over 320 rwtq at 2000rpm and that peaked to 388 rwtq around 6000rpm.
The power was also impressive. 212 rwhp at 1800 rpm. and 388 rwhp at 7200rpm.

Heres some pics.
Fresh off of craigs list.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-02.jpg
Thats a shitload of aluminum
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-03.jpg
The intake manifolds are plastic for smoother runners, and virtually no heat transfer and heat soaking.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-04.jpg
The cam is easy as hell to change.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-10.jpg
T56 is about the size of a z32 tranny. 6 speeds. Uses atf instead of gear oil. hmm.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-13.jpg
Headers.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-17.jpg
The ls1 oiling system isnt the greatest for oil pickup. i reccomend a accusump oil system.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-18.jpg
2 of the new valve springs, and ti retainers installed.
http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/2-20.jpg



LS1 Into S14. as you can see it sits lower then the ka, an just as far back.
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/DSC01950small.jpg
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/DSC02098small.jpg
Tranny has same location.
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/DSC02074small.jpg
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/DSC02150a.jpg
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/DSC02144a.jpg

[ranisron]

hey Luke... I hope these questions can be answered? Thank you!

1. Is there a possibility to list out vendors who produce swap kits for the 240SX crowd? (Other than the sponsor you have for the 7)

2. Also, some estimated swap costs information and breakdown will be appreciated!

3. For the rusty 240SX, what types of chassis strengthening modifications need to be done in order to handle the new power (well, the torque especially)?

[haveblue]

What does a drivetrain/wiring/ect setup cost?
How much did you spend after all the mods?
What did you do for oil pan and engine mounts?
Any modifications to the frame/firewall?

[Neejay]

What does a drivetrain/wiring/ect setup cost?
How much did you spend after all the mods?
What did you do for oil pan and engine mounts?
Any modifications to the frame/firewall?
Basically the same questions. Price for EVERYTHING, and the price for people who will probably have to pay someone to do everything. And is this any different in a s13? (smaller engine bay room to work with?)

[i8yourfwd]

Did Hinson ever figure out a way to keep the swap CA legal so you can at least BAR it first?

[Angel]

What has been figured out as far as header clearence goes? Specifically can you fit long tubes?

[!Zar!]

Luke: How has your ls1 kit with the c6 iirc headers come along so far?
Because once I install and align my car I'm going to bug you so you can help me source and install everything.

[blu808]

S13 kit will be availible by the end of the week.
S14 is allready availible.

Headers: $985 for both Stainless 1 3/4" long tubes into 3" collectors.

S13/S14 complete mounting kit $1122.32 about a week turn around. Includes corvette engine mounts. Deduct $160 ifr they allready have vette mounts.

S13/S14 complete weld yourself kit is $80 less.

Steel drive shaft $275
Aluminum $420

This is for the Hinson supercars complete kit. Other then that there is no kit on the market for a lsx into a 240sx.


haveblue: You can find ls1/t56 complete engine packages on ebay, and craigslist for around 3000-4500

[S13 Charlie]

I can't believe that the LS1 is lighter than a KA! That's awesome, that alone is putting dollar-destroying thoughts in my head...

Can the R200 differential and stock S-chassis driveshafts hold up to the increased torque/power? I suppose the first thing to start screaming for help would be the rear tires, heh.

Hinson's website doesn't seem to be updated to include S-chassis swap kits. Do you have a link that we could follow.

cheers,

c

[g6civcx]

Can you comment on the wiring? Will the vendor be providing support to mate the engine to the chassis?

[ThatGuy]

S13Charlie -- Luke already listed prices for driveshafts, that would lead one to believe that the stock driveshaft won't work. I highly doubt a LS1 and T-56 is the EXACT same length as a KA and stock transmission. As far as the differential goes. Luke has been running a stock RX-7 rear end with a Weld Locd diff. I'm pretty sure it'd be about the same as the stock 240 rear.

g6civcx -- It is my understanding that it should only take around 5 wires to get the LS1 running in an S-Chassis. Everything after that is just figuring out wiring up you gauges and such.

Luke, jump in here and fill in the details I've missed.

[g6civcx]

It is my understanding that it should only take around 5 wires to get the LS1 running in an S-Chassis. Everything after that is just figuring out wiring up you gauges and such.

Thanks for the response.

I'm simplifying my body and engine harnesses as much as possible to prepare for this swap. Good that the S13's accessories are very loosely coupled from the ECU. I think the only thing that may not work is the instrument cluster, but that's no big deal.

It is nice to have simple wiring so you can spend your time on other stuff.

[Sean1978]

Questions:
Is there a "budget" engine that still weighs less than or equal to a KA?

-How about a ford 5.0 302 or a 4.6liter V8?

-How about a 5.7 Liter Chevy 350?

Thanks..

[ThatGuy]

The LS1 is all aluminum, that's why it weighs less. Not sure if they have an aluminum 4.6, 302, or basic 350. Id also stay away from carbuerators, personally. I have tuned a few four barrels before, and it can be great when tuned properly, but Fuel Injection is MUCH EASIER. The only down side to EFI is usually the wiring, which isn't a problem here.

[blu808]

The wiring is easier than a sr swap.

The ecu even has a fan relay wire that you can connect your fan to, and it switches it on and off for you.

Other then that there is a rpm signal wire, speedo, temp, and even oil pressure leads coming out of the ecu. Super easy to hook up.


As for hinsons site. The site should be up later this week said brian hinson today.

[zero.counter]

I am looking into this option, but am wondering about details on the steering rack and what the $1200 kit will entail in its' entirety.

Let's keep this FAQ rolling!

[i8yourfwd]

The wiring is easier than a sr swap.

The ecu even has a fan relay wire that you can connect your fan to, and it switches it on and off for you.

Other then that there is a rpm signal wire, speedo, temp, and even oil pressure leads coming out of the ecu. Super easy to hook up.


As for hinsons site. The site should be up later this week said brian hinson today.
So since they're custom headers, there's no way to have a CA street legal LS1?

[blu808]

Brian Hinson and i will be working on a street legal kit soon.

[ryan hagen]

does the ls1 based iron block 5.3l truck motor have a regular chevy bell housing i never see them cause they are always on the shelf? the place i work at has viper tranneys laying around stacked like fire wood. and we have several 5.3l laying around too.

any one know the weight difference of the 5.3L iron vs 5.7L ls1?

[blu808]

weight difference is over 100lbs. and it puts out much less hp, weaker crank, compression, etc.

BTW the viper tranny i dont think will work with the 240 hinson driveshaft since the viper has a different diameter driveshaft recepticle thing.

[blu808]

Well the street legal version wont effect the current version. so feel free to get the current kit, then mod it later on.

[i8yourfwd]

What are the plans for making it CA legal? Any idea on how to keep the stock headers and clear the steering rack?

[blu808]

C5 headers, with rotated adapter plates for the o2 sensors. The rest is a secret.
lol

[g6civcx]

Any plans for a big block, or are we just limited to the LS-series?

[leftyteck]

i'd like to hear more about what kind of axles are being used... also.. can the rear end handle hard launches w/ all this torque (drag racing)

[blu808]

Any plans for a big block, or are we just limited to the LS-series?

Not at the moment. you can get over 1000hp with a lsx motor if worst comes to worst

leftyteck: i would reccomend upgraded axles.

The diff should be able to hold just fine, but i would gusset the subframe, and do subframe solid bushings.

[cubanbob]

They do make aluminum 5.3's they were put in the older SSR's. The T56 will bolt up to 4.8's, 5.3's, and 6.0's from 01 and up. The 6.0 is the cheapest option as the LS1 style heads bolt pattern and you get the big displacement. The iron block isn't always a bad thing it can handle a bunch of boost. A lot of F-body guys are putting 6.0 blocks in their cars.

[zeek]

Total cost is around 10k if you D.I.Y. with all of hinsons provisions. Or so my estimates have came close too.

[240heat]

My question is how did you manage to set the motor in the engine bay with the oil pan being a rear sump and the rack belocated behind the cros member? is there enough clearence and do you think a 1st gen chevy would fit?

[blu808]

We use the Gto oil pan and pickup.

Clearance is fine. No issues.

And as you can see there is room for a magnacharger with the ls1 sitting so low in the 240 chassis.

[TheWolf]

Got an idea where to get some beefed up axles? I agree about the diff holding but I don't think the axles will.

[doc99]

Power steering lines?
Brake booster?
A/C?

I'm sure there are adapters, just wondering if they're included or if Hinson knows what's required.

[drift freaq]

Question Luke, why did you compare the LS1 with the 6 speed against a KA with an Auto tranny? Everyone knows the Auto tranny on the KA weighs more than the manual 5 speed, a lot more.

[Sean1978]

Question Luke, why did you compare the LS1 with the 6 speed against a KA with an Auto tranny? Everyone knows the Auto tranny on the KA weighs more than the manual 5 speed, a lot more.


I'm guessing it was to illustrate that the swap is comperable in weight to a factory configuration, showing that it's not too much weight for the chassis to handle.

Is this V8 FAQ just going to cover LS1 swaps? I understand they have the best power for weight but I would like to here more about other V8's as well..

[1 88 U]

I want to SEE this swap in an S13. If it fits as nicely as the FD RX7, I'm in.

http://members.cox.net/walton90/aft.jpg
http://www.floridaracing.org/drifting/LBFD/sun/images/1%20(16).jpg

[lilredstiffy]

I helped put the ls1 in the fd car pictured above. He is sponsored by hinson, but the mounts are a joke design wise (very simple). The crossmember is slightly modified to accomodate the oil pan, the crossmember is spaced down from the frame rails, triangle brackets are used to attach the engine to the crossmember with corvette motor mount plates, and the transmission mount is anything you want to fab that runs from frame rail to frame rail. The transmission is very close to the tunnel, but if spaced properly it will clear (ie hinson mounts).

LS1 is completely easy, only issue is builidng or finding headers that fit. The hinson ones fit fine of course.

[haveblue]

so the factory harness and ecu was used?
did you keep power steering?
did you keep AC?

[blu808]

didnt keep ac. dont need it.

I do have power steering on my FD. I even have an adjuster that i can turn the pressure up and down with.

[TheWolf]

Well I'm curious now, does the subframe on the 240sx have to run on spacers to get the tranny to clear? Or was he making stuff up to talk trash? Because that should affect a variety of things in the front end suspension department.

[blu808]

Yes crossmember does use spacers.

[lilredstiffy]

If you don't want to use some sort of spacer, be prepared to cut/hammer/rebuild the transmission tunnel.

Spacing it down really isn't affecting too much in the suspension, just the mounting point on the control arm which is attached with a balljoint to everything else.

[blu808]

yea it just acts as if the car is lowered 1/2" more then it really is. Not a big deal.

[95KA-Turbo]

So does the 1200 dollar motor mounting kit include the stuff you need to space the sub frame and move the steering rack and everything, or is there still some custom fabbing to be done by the person doing the swap?


Edit:

Also, does the mounting kit allow for the stock oil pan to be used, or is it nessisary to use the GTO oil pan? Also, I assume because of the steering column it is not possilbe to run stock headers? Since this is probably the case, can you guys offer steel headers instead of stainless? It should cut the price of those headers in half. That's all the questions I have come up with so far...basically what I am trying to ask is if someone were to buy all of the stuff you guys sell to do this, is it just a bolt on and drop in procedure with only basic wiring that needs to be done.

[doc99]

So does the 1200 dollar motor mounting kit include the stuff you need to space the sub frame and move the steering rack and everything, or is there still some custom fabbing to be done by the person doing the swap?

+1 I'd like to verify this too.

Also will the stock 240 diff gearing work well with the T56 gearing? Not sure what the ratios are on it.

[OJmobileII]

i voted for an informative v8 Faq, not advertising for a company. i followed the developement of hinson's kit for an s14 on two other forums and have been anxiously awaiting info on their s13 project. they do quality work, but this is a v8 Faq. look at our other faqs... those r informative, people have put out different approaches. both wut has worked and wut hasnt. as well as, maybe wut might work.

Luke started the thread off with facts and figures regarding the performance of various chevy small blocks. i think we should follow this lead and discuss different options for the install. people can have shops combine the back of the KA driveshaft w/ the front of the LS and then balance it. maybe someone can use block huggers and weld an LS exhaust flange??? also wut parts do u need for the swap, such as ecu and harness.

we need to discuss different rear ends, cams, etc in this fact. we need to find out wut works best for every persons goal. wut to do if ur building a street car, drag car, daily driver, etc.

10k for a complete turn key diy project? i have been researching a small block 240 swap and there r many different routes besides buying an all in one kit. there is even a kid who had a budget of $4000, bought an fc shell and swapped in an lt1+t56 without running out of money (i know, i know that swap is more documented and parts r cheaper and it might be a little bit easier, but i'm jus saying). alot of parts can be easily fabricated, while others ur better off buying. i can point people in the direction of better info regarding a diy swap, but i'm not sure of the policy here on posting links to other forums and such.

i wanted to post information regarding different chevy gen iii motors such as the LS truck motors(5.3l alum, 5.3l cast, and 6.0l cast), but i was afraid of giving false information people should avoid jus posting for the sake of posting and give correct information. people posting to up their count makes searches more difficult and thats y people repost, cus after an hour or so of looking through crap they decide to ask. and then all the big shots yell out search n00b.

heres some info i've pieced together regarding chevy small block v8s:

ls1/ls2/ls6 jus the motor weigh approximately 100lbs lighter than the ka (for all u ka-t people remember that turbo, i/c, etc add alot of weight).

aluminum 5.3 truck motor weighs about the same as the above, but ive recently seen the prices of this motor go up to the point where it is almost better to buy an ls1 (since u will want to change out the cam and doing so u will need to buy the cam, of course, and ls6 valvesprings). only advantage here is perhaps lower miles than a typical ls1.

lt1/lt4 weigh about the same as the ka and deliver almost as much performance (as u can see from luke's info on the first page). these would be the most bang for the buck. but many r high mileage and beat to hell.

cast 5.3/6.0 weigh about the same as the above lt series. u can find this in local boneyards and usually have less miles than any of the LS/LT motors

as far as transmissions go. if u have an ls motor u want a 6speed u have to get the t56 out of an ls series car. if have an lt motor u can use the t56 out of an lt series car. remember the t56 is really heavy so when u look at different weights of ka + trans vs chevy + trans.... remember that alot of that weight is in the transmission which will be low and in the center of the car.

for those genuinely interested in this swap please try researching the v8 rx7s. people have been doing this swap for a little bit longer and u can find alot of information (just weed out all the rotary vs piston arguing). like i said before i can point people in the right direction w/ links, but i dont know how the mods feel about that.

just like anyother used engine (sr20, ka24, rb, ca, etc) remember u r getting a used part and u have to be ready for any problems that might come with that.

this ended up being much longer than i had anticipated, sorry.

[95KA-Turbo]

I am asking about the completeness of the kit because I have been reading write-ups on other forums about a 240 LS1 swap and their modifications are more laborious but a lot cheaper. I am asking because it is good for people to know - who may not have access to do some of the modifications necessary for a full DIY swap - whether or not you can spend 14-2400 dollars to get the motor to work in your car simply and safely. I think it is important to know information like that before committing to a project all the way.

[2forty]

so exactly what ballpark figure are we looking at here for that beast to be running? some people posted 10k for DIY? thats seems a little high? I mean bare bones swap would put you around 6-7k correct?

[OJmobileII]

i understand that this is a community where we share information about personal experiences with certain products. i would love to see someone buy the kit and then post feedback. most of the questions that people have been asking can be answered by simply calling hinson.

i had a question about one of their kits. i emailed them and i received a response in under a week. they r in the business of making money when someone has a question regarding one of their products they r more than happy to answer it as promptly as possible.

most of the information regarding the kit is jus speculation and hearsay because no one has it yet (as far as i know). it is best to get information from the source. and then rely on peers for their opinions. does it come with this or does it come with that should not be answered by people who dont know.

in the interest of this faq i will not make another post like this one. if anyone has any questions for me, feel free to pm me. i will get back to u as soon as i can. thanks.

[blu808]

Oj: Some good points in your post. I do think you need to reread this though. I am not here to sell hinson kits. I have simply posted the pricing that was provided by hinson. All of my post besides that were either info on the swap/motors, or answering peoples questions. If you havent noticed i havent tried to sell anything here. If people would like to buy parts from me they pm me.

Other then that you have alot of good points.

There are many people who build a v8fc for under 4k including the car. Keep in mind a fc is basically made for a v8. a c4 corvette driveshaft fits a ls1/ lt1 fc with no mods, stock headers fit no problem, and the mounting kit is like $300. add that with a $50 mustang radiator, and a $79 clutch master cyl and your done. Not much involved in that swap.

Then there is also the option of using say a lt1/lt4/5.0/454/ blah blah blah.
That is allways an option, and still an area to look into. But there is no question about the fact that the best choice for a 240sx/v8 would be the lsx motors. Also keep in mind that the only american motors that would be street legal would be the:
LSX, Lt, and 1991+ mustang v8's. because they have to be the same year of the car or newer.

Yeayea. throw a northstar motor in there, or even nissan titan motor. Those would be cool, but we are trying to keep it on the topic of common motors.

[g6civcx]

This is what I found from my preliminary research. Please correct me if I have something wrong.

So far for me the best engine is the LS1 from the late model Camaro/Firebird Fbody. It will keep the car street legal and allow you to keep some of the emissions stuff. How much I don't know since I need to dig more into it.

You can get good, usable drivetrains for under $5k. What I was going to do is just get a shortblock and have a shop do a mild rebuild for reliability. From what I found, the bottom end is pretty solid if all you want is 300 bhp. Maybe get some goodies from ARP to reinforce it a little more, and definitely a better oil system (dry sump of some sort) for roadracing.

I figure mid teens for the Hinson kit. I'm going to go ahead and allow some more budget for some final installation and fabrication if necessary.

The only thing I don't know about is the driveshaft and rear end, but I'm sure I'll figure it out once I get in touch with the folks at Hinsons.

So right now I'm looking at a conservative estimate of about low teens for a turnkey setup. This will allow me to attend a full season of roadracing without a rebuild (I hope), and I'm hoping it will be easier to find parts to feed the motor.

At least I can sell my SR to help fund some of it. Bye bye turbo. Hello V8 :)

[blu808]

Ok guys let me break this down for yall.

Ls1/t56 Around $5000.00
Hinson Mounting kit
Headers: $985 for both Stainless 1 3/4" long tubes into 3" collectors.
Steel drive shaft $275
Aluminum $420
S13/S14 complete mounting kit $1122.32 about a week turn around. Includes corvette engine mounts. Deduct $160 ifr they allready have vette mounts.
Cooling system $450-$$$$$
Clutch line, and master cyl $150-????
odd and ends. $600

Now if i wanted to do the most basic swap. I would atleast do the following.

Cam $190-$300
Timing chain (zo6) $80.00
Cromoly pushrods $90.00
Valve springs (dual) $200.00
Titainium retainers $75.00
160 Deg T-stat $50.00
Underdrive pulley $140-280
Belt tensioner $150-200
Clutch $300-$$$$$
ECU tuning software. $500-1800

[g6civcx]

How do the exhaust collectors line up with the stock exhaust routing?

Thanks for your help.

[blu808]

Well after the tranny you can make it "Y" into a single 3.5" tube in the stock location.

Heres my FD exhaust.

http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/5-17.jpg

http://www.shockdrifting.com/articles/lukefd/5-21.jpg

[SicBastard]

Hi guys,

You all should really check out what's going on over at LS1tech.com. I go by GIGAPUNK over there if you ever have any questions. There's is more than one person over there who has finished this swap. I recently picked up a 98 SE and a 2003 vette LS1 and a camaro SS T56. I'm going to be hacking into the firewall this summer and doing things the hard way. Without dropping the crossmember I will be able to sit the engine substantially lower than is possible with the GTO pan.

You guys can all argue about engines until the cows come home. But you can't argue the fact that the LS1 is just about the most affordable, lightest, engine that reliably and EASILY will put out 400 hp. And the fact that it is domestic does matter. The availability and lack of shipping from Japan add up fast. And besides that, the engine discussion becomes a pointless conversation if you're looking into a kit for the 240, cuz there's only one, and it uses the LS1.

This is going to be fun...

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/s13rackwgullwingfirewall.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/f2feb4b9.jpg

[irax]

If you skim thrugh it and get past the old ass Ford Vs Chevy BS. you will find some usefull stuff.



here is ib's short hand of this topic

get a hensin kit,

if you go with an LSx motor and drive train
get a gto oil pain and pickup

if you use the kit to as a basis for a different V6/8/10 swap your on your own.

you can keep your AC luke didnt want to,
you can keep your PS luke has adjustable valve,
you can get beefier axles at LS auto or other places


This swap was created because the LS/LT motors are lighter and more powerfull out the box then KA/RB. And as an out of the box aplication is capeable to being smog legal for some states. They are working on a way to make it legal for Communistafornia and the only reason why it is a problem is because the posision of the steering colum/rack so custom headers are needed. I'm sure there are Carb Legal headers for that motor, not sure if they will work for this swap though.


Any motor can be made as fast as you can afford, not dream...


and No Cosworth is not Ford.

[mrmephistopheles]

Ok, I've just gone thru and lowered the collective post count by 72.
Keep this thread ON-TOPIC, and post FACTS, not speculation.
I've had to delete shit posts and even some semi-informative, but irrelevant posts.
Irax's post above does a good job of summing some of that shit up.

When this thread reaches 5 pages again, I'll have a volunteer (Luke?) go thru and condense the whole damn thing into a single (if possible) post and we'll start over with v2.0

I deleted some shit about axles because I wanted to make an axle-specific thread that we could all contribute to (and link to from here if necessary).

[ledzeppelin240]

I was wondering if anyone has looked into dry sump oil systems. That would allow you to position the engine as low as possible, but that will require custom engine mounts which does not help because I was planning on buying the Hinson kit.

[SicBastard]

In regards to the rear end gearing question. I'm pretty sure the manual camaros cam with 3.42 and the autos with 2.73. A common upgrade is 3.73s. But the consensus w/ the Camaro Drag racers seems to be that the 3.73s aren't worth the trouble, and most recommend going straight up to the 4.10. The 240s come stock with 4.08. So I figure we are pretty lucky. The only problem is that you are probably going to have to make an extra shift in the 1320 if you are planning on doing it over 115 mph. If serious MPH is on your agenda, you may want to look at something closer to the 3.73. Drag isn't my main concern, so I'm going to stick with my stock 4.08 s14 VLSD as long as possible

I looked into Dry sumping pretty seriously. ARE, Armstrong Race Engineering, out side Sacramento in Orangevale CA, makes more than one pan/kit to dry sump the LS1, beautiful stuff.

But you are really limited as to how low you can place the engine by the transmission. The t56 hangs almost 5 inches below the bottom of the block! The LS running Cadillac Race Cars machined an adapter to run the transmissions on their sides!

Plus there are serious problems with running a dry sump on the street. Cost was a big one for me. Minimum $700, and that would be cheap. Then there's the extra weight, between the extra fluid, lines and pump expect to add near50lbs. Oh and the fact that if a simple belt breaks or comes off you have no oil flow, followed shortly by no bearings. Plus with the cross member in the way you can't even lower the pan to the level of your ground clearance, only to the level of the rack!

For me it just wasn't worth the money, risk, and weight. Especially since you can't take advantage of being able to lower the engine to the degree that drysumps normally afford you.

I'm just going to port an LH6 pump and go.

[ledzeppelin240]

Thats interesting information and like you I will not be using dry sump.

Also LS1TECH does have a lot of good information and here is a like for the DIY throttle body porting, very comprehensive.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139142&page=2

[OJmobileII]

if u plan on doing a gm small block here is some info that is no longer listed after the clean up:

unless u plan on doing a rebuild, i would not suggest an LT1 motor due to the low quality of pullouts that i have seen. if u do find one in good shape u can use the money saved vs buying an LS1 for mods making it more powerful than a stock LS1. one main downfall is the gen ii intake is inferior to the intake on the Gen III/IV motors.

besides the LS1, LS6, and LS2... GM put an LS-style V8 in their trucks/suvs. they come in many different versions. these motors are often easier to find, have lower miles, and are cheaper. they r mostly cast iron block and aluminum heads weighing in at roughly 65lbs more than a standard LS1/6/2. u need to use the f-body accessories and intake for install.

4.8L (LR4) - found in large vans and smaller trucks. most people swap these out in favor of the 6.0. they have a shorter stroke than the motors i will later mention. the rods r longer (consensus: easier to break). factory ~ 270hp, 285 ft-lbs

5.3L (LM7)- the iron block version of this motor is easy to find and might be the ticket for a budget builder. only problem is the heads dont flow (same heads found on 4.8L) very well. also has the same block w/ the same bore as 4.8L, but w/ a longer stroke. when putting in a different cam u need to swap over most of the valvetrain from an LS6. i believe this motor is 9:5:1 compression w/ factory ~ 285 hp, 320 ft-lbs

5.3L (LM4) - this is the aluminum block version of the above mentioned motor. it can be pulled from '04 Trailblazer EXT, Envoy XL, and SSR (i think the '04 Rainier too). differences r the lighter block (equal in weight to LS1/6/2). also compression is bumped up (maybe 9:9:1) producing more power. factory ~ 295 hp, 330 ft-lbs

6.0L (LQ4) - bored version of cast iron 5.3L. big difference is obviously the displacement, but also has high flowing aluminum heads (beware of the pre-01 motors which have iron heads that u dont want for various reasons). the compression is back down to 9:5:1 on these motors. factory ~ 325 hp, 365 ft-lbs

6.0L (LQ9) - "performance" version of above motor found in Silverado SS and 02-05 Escalades. internals r slightly different beefier rods, coated piston skirts, flat top pistons, and higher compression (something like 10:1ish). power goes up too. factory ~ 345 hp, 380 ft-lbs

that is all i can spit off right now. feel free to correct any of my information. this was all pieced together from searching the web in my spare time.

my conclusion:

if ur looking for a budget build and r concerned about a little extra weight try to locate an LM4 (prices have skyrocketed on this as of late though... can almost find an LS1 in decent shape for same price)

if the extra 65lbs doesnt bother u, go big or go home. 6.0 motors r more bang for ur buck. the extra money is worth the increased displacement, higher flowing heads, and various cam options.

the cast iron motors r better for boost, of course. big boost F/I f-body guys use the cast blocks. the LQ4 is better for forced induction due to the lower compression, but if u want to run anything over 10psi (people go 14 w/ meth but who knows for how long), u better get some aftermarket pistons and rods.

LQ9 would be the best N/A motor, but only if u get a good deal over the price of an LS1/6/2.

P.S. thank u Mods for "taking out the garbage"

EDIT: i guess my post didnt get deleted. i jus assumed it did. so i guess this is halfway a repost. oh well, this post has more info than my previous one. hope u find it useful.

[TURBI]

Here's a faq: What 1/4 times do you get with those v8's in your 240's?

[SicBastard]

I fully expect 11.5 @ 128 in the 1320.

[blu808]

Well a stock bodied FD with full interior and dot approved tires with a stock
ls1 that had only intake, headers, and exhaust has gone 11.80s

[SicBastard]

drag radial?

[RightWheelDrive]

Well a stock bodied FD with full interior and dot approved tires with a stock
ls1 that had only intake, headers, and exhaust has gone 11.80s



^^^^ street tires im guessin

[Lordrandall]

Hi guys,

You all should really check out what's going on over at LS1tech.com. I go by GIGAPUNK over there if you ever have any questions.

Hey, I've seen your posts over on LS1 as well as Freshalloy. It looks like using the R33 x-member makes it much easier for headers to fit.

I'll be doing this swap in the future. Maybe after my kids are out of daycare.

:eek3:

[Silverbullet]

Luke, ur the pimp. Im fully serious about doing an LS1 swap now. My redneck domestic friend used to always talk about LS1 motors in 240s but i never took it into serious consideration. I've already made arangements to sell my SR20 lol. 4 bangers suck.

So is the conversion kit ready to sell as of now? I dont really plan on doing the swap for another few months tho, but im pretty serious about doing it. All i need is the custom header, mounting kit, and drive shaft correct? Are you guys going ot have more detailed wiring info in the future?

Thanks,
John

[snatch13]

So anyone have any info on Nissan V8 swaps such as the vh's or vk's? Been doing some research, but I'm curious to know if anyone on here has done these swaps.

[SicBastard]

http://members.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/silfiniti/


He makes it sound a little slow, but slicks and an intake sticking thru the hood always makes me smile

[McRussellPants]

http://members.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/silfiniti/


He makes it sound a little slow, but slicks and an intake sticking thru the hood always makes me smile

That dude is on an automatic and VH41 though.

Shop in florida is did a VH45 with a Z32 trans in their hatch, it sounds fucking sex.

[SicBastard]

I'm starting my project next Monday!!!
Just drove my '98 s14 se for the first time yesterday.
Now I know why 240s are the 'Masters of Dorifto' choice!
This thing is hell for fun. I'm going to take it down to Sacramento Drag Races tonight for some base runs before I yank out the KA next week. I also picked up a canton road race pan for my LS1. By my rough measurements it should help me out so that I only have to set the firewall back about 4" now. I'll take some pictures with some more serious measurements next week.
Anyone think I can break 15s tonight?!
Toss me a PM if you're going to be at Sac tonight.

[Jonas427]

Sounds great. Keep us updated.

[evo_dadi]

has anybody done this swap in norcal??i would be really interested on checking it out if you do ;)

[blu808]

I have done it in an fd. I am located in san jose.

We are currently looking for a s13 coupe shell to do the conversion if anyone has one.

We are also for hire to do the swap for you. Pm us for details.

Luke

[evo_dadi]

ahh nice!!ive seen another fd with an ls1 swap already down here and met the person but i forgot his name.but shoot me a pm about swap for hire ;)ill try to hit you up on aim later also if possible.

[sideview_180sx]

luke I'm unable to PM you, how ever how much would a typical swap cost, with radiator, fuel, clutch, and associated proper mods. for a basic LS1 with T5 tranny, also what is the top speed on them since the nissan's have different ratio ring and pinons??

[shinrekka]

For many of us putting a vette engine into our S13's is way out of price range. A ford 302 would be MUCH MUCH less expensive. Its reliable, parts are cheap, and theres probaly more aftermarket parts then any other engine. 302's can be had for anywere from free to a couple hundred dollers. It may screw up the handling, but it wouldnt be that bad with some suspension tuning. It takes 300hp to the wheels in a fox body mustang to drop into high 12's in the 1/4mile, and they are 500lbs heavier then S13. With traction, what is it going to take an S13 to hit high 12's? Intake manifold, exhaust, maybe a cam for mid 12's? Bang for your buck, I beleive the 302 is the way to go. I'd love to have that mustang sound and power, but at the same time, not actually have to own a mustang.

Any plans for a Ford V8 kit, for those of us that can afford to swap in a vette motor?

[S14DB]

A Stock 302 barely makes 176hp to the wheels stock. 190hp with all the bolt ons. You need to add Heads, Intake Manifold and a Cam to get to 300hp. The that puts you into the price range of a LS1 that makes more HP than that stock and even more with bolt ons down the road. Sorry, I played the mustang game for many years before I got the 240. The returns aren't that great.

[shinrekka]

Junkyard 302 with a basic rebuild (done by yourself),Heads, cam and an intake manifold dont cost anywere near the amount the amount a stock LS1 would cost. It took me 800$ in new/used engine parts to run 12.8 in an 83 GLX, I did have to do alot of other things to the car but it was only around a grand for any engine work. It cost me 200$ for the motor so thats 1000$ total. Or even easier, buy a slightly used supercharger setup for a grand or so, I beleive my friend made over 250hp to the wheels on a vortec supercharger he bought off ebay for under a grand. Bang for your buck, LS1 cant touch the 302. Even if a stock 302 only makes 176hp to the wheels, its still got a shitload more torque and probaly 50hp more to the wheels then a stock KA. Most likely be more reliable then the KA as well. With another grand in modifications, easily low 12's minimum. The only kit I would buy, woould be for the ford 302

[S14DB]

Are you talking Carbs? or EFI? Cause I'm sure I could whip together a 350 SBC from the junkyard that can put out more for the same $.

[shinrekka]

im talking about EFI. I'd have no problem using a 350 SBC but would they use the same mounts as a LT1 or LS1? I do like ford better then chevy, but whatevers cheap and easy i'll take it. I would most likely go carburated 350 if the LT1/LS1 mounts are the same as the older 350. I'd still be interested in finding out if there are any plans for mounts to use a Ford 302.

[ledzeppelin240]

There are quite a few reasons for using a LS1.

-1hp & 1lb.-ft. of torque per cubic inch displacement.
-128lbs. lighter than the KA
-with a T56 you now have 6 gears.
-the LS1 is one of the best small block v8's (this is my opinion based on what I have read, seen, and heard about), you got the refinement, technology that is reliable, durability, fuel efficent, good emissions, capable of making high hp with minimal modifications, or running low 12's in the 1/4 mile completly stock.

I believe it has a lot to do with preference and what you want to work on or what you want from the car. There are so many options for the 240SX which is why I love this car. Everything from NA KA power, KA-T, SR, RB, Nissan V6's, Nissan V8's, Toyota V8's, LS1's, Ford 302's. I have decided to use the LS1 because of its performance and basically bang for the buck after looking into half of those options.

[shinrekka]

my point was, alot of us cant afford ls1 engines, thats why most of us here drive stock S13s with stock KAs the 302 is a cheap easy way to gaining over 100ft lbs of torque. That much torque in a 2700lbs car is going to be alot of fun. Basicly the mount kit plus 300$ for the engine is what the swap would cost and extra for whatever else u want to do. For the LS1 its going to cost the mount kit plus around 4000$ for the engine. Not many of us can afford that. It would absolutly be worth it tho. But if the LS1 uses the same mounts as a old 350 SBC, i would quit bitching about a cheaper alternative to the LS1, because that would be that cheaper alternative.

[nissan89sx]

what has to be done to the chassis to make it so it does not bend or flex under torque loads?...im considering doing this after i get outta tech school just seeing what has to be done to the body and frame structure as that is where i will be starting

[S14DB]

what has to be done to the chassis to make it so it does not bend or flex under torque loads?...im considering doing this after i get outta tech school just seeing what has to be done to the body and frame structure as that is where i will be starting
Ah, the wonders of IRS...

[mmdb]

Questions about smog legality in CA. Will you (Luke) be able to modify/update/retrofit the LSx's evap equipment allowing it to properly pass state ref?

[ranger2339]

How about the new GTO ls2 can that be put in just as easy as the ls1 from a z28 etc.?? I have a great hook up on a GTO ls2 set up, thats the route im going if it will work with the hinson kit, headers and DS..

Very good info here....

Josh

[ThatGuy]

Yes the LS2 will fit. It has the same external dimensions as the LS1, as does the LS6 and LS7. The difference is in the internals. The LS2 s typically more expensive than the LS1 just because it is a newer and more powerful engine. But since you say you have a hook-up, it shouldn't be a problem.

[bigJ86]

A Stock 302 barely makes 176hp to the wheels stock. 190hp with all the bolt ons. You need to add Heads, Intake Manifold and a Cam to get to 300hp. The that puts you into the price range of a LS1 that makes more HP than that stock and even more with bolt ons down the road. Sorry, I played the mustang game for many years before I got the 240. The returns aren't that great.
...


sorry buddy they make like 190hp give or take a few.... they were rated 225hp from factory with 300tq..... 175hp ..... must have been one wore out 302...... just exhust mods and intake on a 302 can put it into 220 to the rear wheels( i know i dynoed that on my 91 mustang)... the only reson they dyno low for a V8 is due to shitty heads and intake... change those out your good to go.

i would like to know when they will have a 302 kit for the s13 i think it would be a great swap and want to see a kit for it soon....

[Lost_DriFter]

im not sure if someone posted this already but what if u put a 4.6 mustang motor in an s13 how would i go about this...or has anyone done this b4??

[bigJ86]

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a195/bigj86/untitled-1.jpg


the 4.6 is much larger then the 302... and the heads are also very wide.. do to the fact the 4.6L are shoc and dohc engines.....


(sorry for small pic)

[S14DB]

Mod motor would be way to wide.

[bigJ86]

weight for a 302 with iron heads is around 460-480lbs + t-5 transmission is 85 lbs

so a 302 with tranny is 545-565 wich is lighter then a KA with auto tranny......

[ledzeppelin240]

Wow, I never realized how wide the 4.6 is.

so a 302 with tranny is 545-565 wich is lighter then a KA with auto tranny

Does that include exhaust manifolds and all accessories? Cause I just don't see how a iron block & iron head v8 weighs less than a 4 cyl with aluminum head...

[bigJ86]

Does that include exhaust manifolds and all accessories? Cause I just don't see how a iron block & iron head v8 weighs less than a 4 cyl with aluminum head...


ok i just did a lil more searching...... a 302 long block..... weight is 460 lbs....... so with all the accessories.... will be about the same weight as a KA... wich aint bad since it dose have iron heads stock...... just switch to aluminum heads, and u will save 50lbs and gain about 40hp.....

[ranger2339]

Man the 03 cobra motor would be sick to put in a 240...

on another note i just placed my order with Hinson and will be getting all my install kit,cooling,tuned ECU, fuel system,exhaust and driveshaft...
Everything i need to get my LS1 into my coupe..



Ax

[ledzeppelin240]

on another note i just placed my order with Hinson and will be getting all my install kit,cooling,tuned ECU, fuel system,exhaust and driveshaft...
Everything i need to get my LS1 into my coupe..


Keep us updated...I'm waiting till next summer to order all my stuff for my coupe.

[Neejay]

Man the 03 cobra motor would be sick to put in a 240...

on another note i just placed my order with Hinson and will be getting all my install kit,cooling,tuned ECU, fuel system,exhaust and driveshaft...
Everything i need to get my LS1 into my coupe..



Ax
How much did all that run you?

[ferris]

what about tool requirements for the swap, would you need more tools because of fabrication needs and other differences then from say, an SR swap? Also, how much modifying and fabrication needs to be done if you buy the complete kit?

[ThatGuy]

Only fabrication is modifying your subframe. You could just go to the website and find out for yourself. www.hinsonsupercars.com

[blu808]

Thanks barry.

If you dont have a welder and all that jazz you can just order a complete swap kit including the x member. If you do it that way it is easy. You dont even need to cut the chassis like a sr swap. Just throw it in, and you can light em up at 120mph.

[Neejay]

Thanks barry.

If you dont have a welder and all that jazz you can just order a complete swap kit including the x member. If you do it that way it is easy. You dont even need to cut the chassis like a sr swap. Just throw it in, and you can light em up at 120mph.
man...I wish. So the most expensive thing is the engine themselves? (assuming lsx)

Looks to be a $6k-7k swap total.

[blu808]

You gota pay to play man.

You can have a 300 whp sr that needs frequent maintence, rebuilds, blown turbos, etc.

Or you could pay double and have a 350hp 350 tq motor that is smog legal and all it needs is an oil change here and there.



















And it gets you laid.

[Neejay]

You gota pay to play man.

You can have a 300 whp sr that needs frequent maintence, rebuilds, blown turbos, etc.

Or you could pay double and have a 350hp 350 tq motor that is smog legal and all it needs is an oil change here and there.

And it gets you laid.
LOOOL Yeah, Im not knocking it at all. Hell, if I had the extra cash, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

It's just fucking impossible to do (in my situation) without a real full-time job. Im starting a temp full-time job (co-op).

I can't imagine what'd it feel like to have a NA monster and dont even had to mod it at all.

[blu808]

From what i have found, craigslist is a good way to make money. Just become a jig like me. :eek2:

[ferris]

can this swap really be done for 6-7k? i thought it would be closer to 10-11k for the whole thing....i guess it depends on engine cost and whether or not you buy the kits.

[ThatGuy]

It really depends on the engine you use and where you get it from. You can dig an LS1 out of a junkyard and hope it was well treated before and only pay $3000 or so. You can also go the crate engine route, which is much more expensive but reliability is awesome. Personally I have found a LS2 crate engine that makes 510hp and 480ft. lbs at the crank. It also costs $10,000 and it's brand spankin new. :eek: I've got alot of saving to do if I want to go that route.
http://www.turnkeyenginesupply.com/Enginepics/ls2street.gif

[Jonas427]

How about this. Using all Hinson parts, how much will it cost to get everything you need, excluding the engine and transmission?

[shinrekka]

for the 5.0 swap, dosent the mustang use a cable instead of a hydrolic system for the clutch. How would that work? Im not positive but I beleive the z31 uses the same tranny as the 5.0 but it may be hydrolic. Who is producing the 5.0 swap kit, hinson supercars? or was it another company? And when is the expected release date?

[Fat Felix]

for the 5.0 swap, dosent the mustang use a cable instead of a hydrolic system for the clutch. How would that work?

same question!

Not sure if I am remembering correctly.. but didn't the turbo thunderbird's use a t-5 but with a hydro clutch? If that part is true, can you use the bell housing off the t-bird and put it on the t-5 from the mustang? OR just use the t-5 from the t-bird altogether?

[ThatGuy]

How about this. Using all Hinson parts, how much will it cost to get everything you need, excluding the engine and transmission?

Did you even bother to check out www.hinsonsupercars.com to check the prices out?

[ledzeppelin240]

What would be the advantages of using a 5.0L sbf instead of the 5.7L sbc?

Chevy
-driveablility, fuel injected, all alluminum (light weight), tunability, responds well to mods, 350hp/350tq stock, paired with a 6 speed manual tranny. There are probably some points missing, but the cost of engine and tranny is the downfall. (This is all my opinion...)

I believe anything worth doing is worth doing right and from the research I have done, my choice is the LSx. The cost I have worked out is about $6000 with the Hinson goods, and doing the work myself...So including the price of my car thats $7000 spent, but there is still suspension and a lot of other things that add up.

[Fat Felix]

What would be the advantages of using a 5.0L sbf instead of the 5.7L sbc?


initial cost.

[Jonas427]

Did you even bother to check out www.hinsonsupercars.com to check the prices out?
Don't be an ass. Yes I checked them out, but I bet there is more involved that just what is listed.

A mod should delete my question and your useless comment, so that this thread doesn't get cluttered.

[EchoOfSilence]

um, he is a mod.

[ThatGuy]

Check out the F.A.Q. section on www.hinsonsupercars.com They cover all the Frequently Asked Questions, imagine that.

Why should I delete your questions? Hopefully it will help other people to not ask the same questions and follow the links provided first. :bow:

[Neejay]

Check out the F.A.Q. section on www.hinsonsupercars.com They cover all the Frequently Asked Questions, imagine that.

Why should I delete your questions? Hopefully it will help other people to not ask the same questions and follow the links provided first. :bow:
Good job on not replying with flames and/or immature shit. :bigok:

ThatGuy, what would YOU do as far as chassis stiffening? (Sorry if this was covered prior to this post, I don't remember reading it)

[ThatGuy]

I'm planning on running a custom cage. I'll decide after that's in, what other chassis bracing I feel the car needs. I've almost got the suspension where I'd like it. No sense in dropping in all that power if the car still handles like stock.

[shinrekka]

so what about the release of the 5.0 swap kit

[ranger2339]

Hinson Super Cars

247 McCutcheon Road Phone: (205) 887.5161
Lacey's Spring, AL 35754 E-mail: [email protected]

ORDER FORM


AC & PS $0.00 Date: 8/11/2006
Electrical $610.00
Engine Build $0.00 Customer: Josh Axel
Fuel & Cooling $1,250.00 Triple Six Drift Team
Hydraulics $0.00
Intake & Exhaust $985.00 [email protected]
Performance $0.00
Labor $0.00
Misc. Items $0.00
Motor & Transmission
Mounting Equipment $1,633.30
Nitrous Systems $0.00
Turbo Sys. $0.00


Subtotal $4,478.30
Estimated Car Purchase
Shipping & Handling

Current Balance
Total Balance Due $4,478.30



*Current pricing for June 2006

I got a complete order form from brain hinson, he is very easy to work with..

Here is what i have so far...

I have a spread sheet but dont know how to post it!!

Ax

[Neejay]

So if you got them to install the motor + cost of motor, we're looking at $8k-$10k....bah

[ThatGuy]

$8K to $10K for ~350hp and up, that is naturally aspirated/reliable. Still sounds like a deal to me. :bow:

[ledzeppelin240]

When you break the different systems down even more you will realize you are getting quite a lot. Also not everybody needs Hinson to supply everything, when you can do the wiring that saves $400, doing the subframe mods yourself, used corvette engine mounts, used GT0 oil pan, all these savings will add up. The price is affected by what can be donw by yourself and what has to be paid for.

So I still believe it is completely worth the money, when you start looking at other swaps the LS1 owns...

[Neejay]

When you break the different systems down even more you will realize you are getting quite a lot. Also not everybody needs Hinson to supply everything, when you can do the wiring that saves $400, doing the subframe mods yourself, used corvette engine mounts, used GT0 oil pan, all these savings will add up. The price is affected by what can be donw by yourself and what has to be paid for.

So I still believe it is completely worth the money, when you start looking at other swaps the LS1 owns...
Yeah, see I'd have to pay for everything as I have no garage space or any spot to do anything car related.

I'd rather start out on a better platform though (as far as the car being in good condition already.

[ranger2339]

Im going with all hinson shit..I will be installing it all myself, i just dont have the fab. resources..

I will keep a good log on the cost and keep you guys updated..

Josh

[ledzeppelin240]

Yeah keep a price list, It is kind of a bummer if you don't have the resources or knowledge to do it yourself. But that is where Hinson is awesome you can either do a lot yourself or buy it all and just install.

[PXRdriFT]

i'm starting my swap now. i just ordered the basic hinson mounting kit. i was able to find a new gto oilpan off ebay and saved some money that way plus i'm trying to source my own mounts.

[ranger2339]

Hell ya frank!!!

Keep us updated??

Let me know how the insatll kit is and take some pics pppplease!!!

Josh

[PXRdriFT]

will do josh. talked to brian on friday and they will start working on my subframe tomorrow.

[dans]

Nice to see that folks are really after this swap. I picked up a 95 240 with the gola of turning it into a street/track hybrid and while my first thought was to keep it 4cyl, this makes the move to large cube american power just far too nice to not put on the shopping list. Thanks go to those who are doing this now for being the test bunnies, I and others offer you our thanks.

[blu808]

Make sure you guys that order the hinson stuff, let brian know i sent you. you will get a better deal.


Let me know guys how the swap goes.

I dont want to see any unfineshed projects.

[dans]

I wonder if anyone has looked at doing a full custom subframe out of moly with some modified suspension points to imporve geometry?

Nothing like saving weight and improving performance at the same time. Put the big bad V8 on top of it and I'd pay the extra for the performance bump.

[ranger2339]

Make sure you guys that order the hinson stuff, let brian know i sent you. you will get a better deal.


Let me know guys how the swap goes.

I dont want to see any unfineshed projects.


Hey i did and got a discount plus a military one...........

Luke i know your hella busy but i need a weld loc diff soon for a spare, i have a s15 diff but need a spare for events.....

Sooo hows your car luke, you been doing good in FD with that eleswon engine??


Ax

[PXRdriFT]

http://www.pxracing.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_DSC02625.JPG

Now I just need Hinson to get cracking on my subframe...

[ranger2339]

Yo frank man looking good, hey did you send them a core subframe???


Where did ya get your engine from??

Ax

[Creizai]

Good, to bad cost is to high.

[PXRdriFT]

i sent the core on 31 July...

i got the motor from a guy in san diego. i was able to hear it run while it was in the car before buying. came out of an 01 WS6.

[Neejay]

i sent the core on 31 July...

i got the motor from a guy in san diego. i was able to hear it run while it was in the car before buying. came out of an 01 WS6.
How much did you pay?

[PXRdriFT]

$4500.......

[ranger2339]

Thats about right...Im looking at an 02 SS LS1 for about $4600 shipped to me with harness,ECU, t56 tranny etc.....

I have to get my subframe shipped to hinson asap........

Ax

[PXRdriFT]

talked to brian yesterday. the subframe should be done and ready to ship either today or monday. i'll have to call on monday to check status again.

[s14shrkeye]

Does the reflash of the ECU provided by Hinson account for the stupid 1st to 4th gear shift on the T56 when you are just giving it alittle gas? I know that they sell a little module in Summitt and other stores that allow you to get full 1st through 6th shifting even when you aren't giving it alot of gas, but I was wondering if the reflash accounted for it. Also, is the swap going to have a fully functioning OBDII port. In upper NY they hook your car into the state computer for the emissions portion of the inspection and the only way I could talk myself into this swap is if all of the engine electronics function as if they were still sitting in the donor camaro/firebird/gto/corvette. If all the systems function this is definitely the swap for me.

[ledzeppelin240]

What do you mean by the shifting, it is a manual transmission. The OBDII port is installed and fully functional if you get the wiring done by HSC or if you know how to do it yourself.

[PXRdriFT]

Does the reflash of the ECU provided by Hinson account for the stupid 1st to 4th gear shift on the T56 when you are just giving it alittle gas? I know that they sell a little module in Summitt and other stores that allow you to get full 1st through 6th shifting even when you aren't giving it alot of gas, but I was wondering if the reflash accounted for it. Also, is the swap going to have a fully functioning OBDII port. In upper NY they hook your car into the state computer for the emissions portion of the inspection and the only way I could talk myself into this swap is if all of the engine electronics function as if they were still sitting in the donor camaro/firebird/gto/corvette. If all the systems function this is definitely the swap for me.
not sure if the reflash accounts for it but the rx7 guys cut off the CAGS plug and solder a 2.2K ohm resister between the two cut wires to eliminate the skip shift control.

my wiring harness was just completed today. pretty straight forward. some of the rx7 guys did it for me. my hinson subframe and driveshaft are supposed to be mailed out tomorrow. last major items are the headers.

[s14shrkeye]

not sure if the reflash accounts for it but the rx7 guys cut off the CAGS plug and solder a 2.2K ohm resister between the two cut wires to eliminate the skip shift control.

my wiring harness was just completed today. pretty straight forward. some of the rx7 guys did it for me. my hinson subframe and driveshaft are supposed to be mailed out tomorrow. last major items are the headers.


Are you going to have your headers enter a y-pipe and terminate as a single exhaust?

[ranger2339]

Sending out my subframe in two days whooo........

I will be using a Y-pipe from hinson and going with a single exit exhaust, i have a s-13...

Frank you think your RX7 guys can hook my harness up, ill IM ya???

Josh

[PXRdriFT]

i will be going with a single exhaust as well. i want to utilize the one i have.

josh, no problem. shoot me an im next time i'm on.

[SicBastard]

I was looking under a 300zx TT and noticed that the rear anti sway bar had two humps in it to clear a true dual exhaust unlike the s14 one that only has clearance for a single exhaust.

Is the 300zx rear anti sway bar interchangeable with the s14s rear? Is it the same diameter (might even be an upgrade)? If so it might be an easy way to go true dual out the back.

[blu808]

I have tried to put a z32 rear sway on a s14. Dont ask me why.

Anyways that 2nd hump hits the s14 gas tank.


I was looking under a 300zx TT and noticed that the rear anti sway bar had two humps in it to clear a true dual exhaust unlike the s14 one that only has clearance for a single exhaust.

Is the 300zx rear anti sway bar interchangeable with the s14s rear? Is it the same diameter (might even be an upgrade)? If so it might be an easy way to go true dual out the back.

[mikespeed95]

wow, lot of information in this thread....also a lot of misinfo, and things that reallllllllllly make me wonder.

anyways, peopel wanting a ls1 swap, check out http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28

heres some bulid up threads on s chassis on there right now

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565461

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564082

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565336

has anyone actually completed a hinson s13 yet luke with the hood closing, or hte front swaybar clearing the oil pan?? my blower is only 3'' taller than the stock manifold, and it stuck 4.5'' out the top of the hood

j30 rear swaybar can solve problems with exhaust clearance. my ls13 is running dual 3'' exhausts,and sounds like nascar. however i personally on my ls13 arent running any swaybars right now, since i cant get a front one that will clear the oil pan.

for the money, a ls1 stock will throw down about 330rwhp with the mods required to put it in a s chassis. you can get a motor for between 2500-4k if you get off your butt and actually call around, and look. i paid 3500 for my complete motorset, with only 30k miles on it out of an 02 ss camaro.

[240heaven]

luke free up your pm box!!! :)

[blu808]

Whats up Mike? Hows the chassi coming along. Anyways, i know that there isnt a clearance problem on the s14 cars. I am waiting to see what the case will be with the hinson s13 kit, since your kit was modified from the s14 unit.
I know brian has the hood clearance issue in the works, and im sure he will have it resolved.

Also for the front sway bar, all you need is to get some block aluminum and space the mounts down about an inch.


wow, lot of information in this thread....also a lot of misinfo, and things that reallllllllllly make me wonder.

anyways, peopel wanting a ls1 swap, check out http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28

heres some bulid up threads on s chassis on there right now

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565461

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564082

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565336

has anyone actually completed a hinson s13 yet luke with the hood closing, or hte front swaybar clearing the oil pan?? my blower is only 3'' taller than the stock manifold, and it stuck 4.5'' out the top of the hood

j30 rear swaybar can solve problems with exhaust clearance. my ls13 is running dual 3'' exhausts,and sounds like nascar. however i personally on my ls13 arent running any swaybars right now, since i cant get a front one that will clear the oil pan.

for the money, a ls1 stock will throw down about 330rwhp with the mods required to put it in a s chassis. you can get a motor for between 2500-4k if you get off your butt and actually call around, and look. i paid 3500 for my complete motorset, with only 30k miles on it out of an 02 ss camaro.

[g6civcx]

Can you comment on the wiring? Will the vendor be providing support to mate the engine to the chassis?

Why did somebody give me negative reps for this post? Luke specifically asked for questions in the opening post.

[blu808]

Donno man. But thats kinda gay that someone would leave neg rep just for making that post.

[Neejay]

Why did somebody give me negative reps for this post? Luke specifically asked for questions in the opening post.
Bleh, yeah that sucks.

[shinrekka]

i want ford 302 power

[ledzeppelin240]

i want ford 302 power

I could not justify using a ford 302 when the LS1 is far more superior, I mean shit, anything worth doing is worth doing right!!!

[mikespeed95]

Whats up Mike? Hows the chassi coming along. Anyways, i know that there isnt a clearance problem on the s14 cars. I am waiting to see what the case will be with the hinson s13 kit, since your kit was modified from the s14 unit.
I know brian has the hood clearance issue in the works, and im sure he will have it resolved.

Also for the front sway bar, all you need is to get some block aluminum and space the mounts down about an inch.


if he is working on it why do i have people aim'ing , emailing me askign me if it will fit becaus ethey are thinking about buying it and i have to tell them i dont know after they tell me its the same for 13/14??

lol

[ranger2339]

Because they love you mike...



Ax

[marshun]

im hooked. i want an ls1. hopefully i can find one for sale here in hawaii. then into the s13 it goes.

[shinrekka]

I could not justify using a ford 302 when the LS1 is far more superior, I mean shit, anything worth doing is worth doing right!!!

Because using a ford 302, would be thousands less then an LS1. I'd much rather put in a reliable ford 302, then another KA. Not everyone has thousands of dollars to spend on an engine. Hence the reason im goin CA. Or if someone come out for a kit to put a 302 in a S13. I'd do that.

I recall reading on this forums somewere that someone was coming out with a kit to put in the 302. It was supposed to be the economy option to the LS1 swap. I dont know what ever happened to that. :wackit: .

I mean I know alot of people have money and have a goal for alot of power. My goal, is to have a reliable 240sx to drive. One that will start everyday and get me to where i have to go. The KA failed miserably, twice. The CA will alow me to have a reliable car thats a bit faster then a stock 240, hopefully. However if a 302 swap kit came out, i would have alot more power then a stock 240 and still have a reliable car.

[haveblue]

as much fun as we in the import community make fun of the 'stone age' tech of pushrods, there is a lot to be said for ford and chevy v8s, because the bang for the buck is very high. I know next to nothing about either one but I thought I would throw this out there for discussion:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28898/
looks like a 302 has as much potential as an ls1 for those who aren't building 9 sec cars.

I will say a custom hybrid car will never be as reliable as a stock oem car. if you want reliability get a civic and call it a day. If you wana fast/fun sports car you gota pay to play.

[ledzeppelin240]

looks like a 302 has as much potential as an ls1 for those who aren't building 9 sec cars.


Yeah it is a very capable engine, I am not bashing that. A LS1 can be had for about $2500CND, but if you want the T56, complete wiring that is going to bring it up to $3500-$4000. The LS1 comes with 350hp plus and that is stock, 400hp is easily had for cheap if you know what your doing.

The Ford engine is heavy and only 5spd(not sure what tranny options there are??)but is cheap and can put down some good numbers. The LS1 has the T56 tranny option and is quite a bit lighter, but more expensive. An either one of them will have plenty of power for a 2600lb car...

[shinrekka]

I can garuntee many people would buy the ford v8 kit just becuase the overall cost would affordable. Yes the 302 only comes 5speed, but theres nothing wrong with that. 80s 300zx's come with the exact same tranny.

[mikespeed95]

Because using a ford 302, would be thousands less then an LS1. I'd much rather put in a reliable ford 302, then another KA. Not everyone has thousands of dollars to spend on an engine. Hence the reason im goin CA. Or if someone come out for a kit to put a 302 in a S13. I'd do that. [quote]

the only thing that makes a 302 look reliable comparatively in the v8 community is called opti spark.

[quote]I recall reading on this forums somewere that someone was coming out with a kit to put in the 302. It was supposed to be the economy option to the LS1 swap. I dont know what ever happened to that. :wackit: .


dont compare a 302 to a ls1 again. the block on the 302 cant take as much power as a ka's block, the oiling system is less than spectacular, the block is open deck IIRC, its just yuck yuck yuck. trannys suck, just stay away.

I mean I know alot of people have money and have a goal for alot of power.

what car enthusiast doesn't?

My goal, is to have a reliable 240sx to drive.

then dont start modding it, especially wtih a 302.

One that will start everyday and get me to where i have to go. The KA failed miserably, twice. The CA will alow me to have a reliable car thats a bit faster then a stock 240, hopefully. However if a 302 swap kit came out, i would have alot more power then a stock 240 and still have a reliable car.

you think th enissan engine is unreliable...yet you want a 86-95 ford motor? please.

i want to slap everyone who just said the t5 that is mated to the 5.0 isnt a bad tranny. have yall ever actually shifted it? eww

my cummins turbo diesel tranny feels better

another chep v8 that doesnt suck....q45 with Z tranny. search for ellis autoworkz car

[SicBastard]

Did nissan ever even put a manual behind one of their v8s?

[ledzeppelin240]

Uh huh...mikespeed95 is on the same level that I am on. The 302 to me sounds like a terrible idea in so many ways. The LS1 is not the 'God" of engines, but is arguably one of the best small block V8's...

I would rather swap in a completly stock LS1, be able to run low 12's and out run cars that cost 4 times as much as mine. All this with basically a stock driveterrain(besides the driveshaft and a LSD is a must), then get 28mpg when ever I decide to drive the car to work. I am a avid fan of technology and electronics, the spark timing, fuel injection, and ignition timing is so percise it is ridicoulous with todays modern engines. Imagine what a big block would do if it had all the technology that even a 2000+ Civic has in it, that engine would rock...

[datboibrad]

its funny to me that people still go back to the MPG associated with ls1 f and c bodies. lets not forget the rear end gearing is ALOT lower than the 4.08 240 stock gearing. just something you may want to think about before getting into and finding out the truth. dont take this the wrong way as ls1 bashing, im doing the swap myself its just something i noticed when i sat down and thought about it.

[ranger240]

some sites with good info on VH45DE swaps
site mikespeed95 metioned:
http://www.ellisautoworkz.com/cars/450sx.asp
and
a 240z owner that outlines the process of mating a t-56 to the VH45DE
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982

its a ton of work.. notching frames ect... not to mention the whole intake mani poping outta the hood.. check out the ellis video though, it sure sounds mean

anyone else have any good info, links, or opinions about the swap?

maybe this sticky v8 faq could be devided into engine-specific threads
i dunno if admins could do that but itd definately help organize all this info

[SicBastard]

So the answer is no. There isn't even an available adapter/bell housing to mate a manual trans to a nissan v8.

LS1 is king, just accept it.

[blu808]

Check this place out. a 1000hp small block that is daily drivable and comes with a warranty.
http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/

[shinrekka]

[QUOTE=shinrekka]Because using a ford 302, would be thousands less then an LS1. I'd much rather put in a reliable ford 302, then another KA. Not everyone has thousands of dollars to spend on an engine. Hence the reason im goin CA. Or if someone come out for a kit to put a 302 in a S13. I'd do that. [quote]

the only thing that makes a 302 look reliable comparatively in the v8 community is called opti spark.



dont compare a 302 to a ls1 again. the block on the 302 cant take as much power as a ka's block, the oiling system is less than spectacular, the block is open deck IIRC, its just yuck yuck yuck. trannys suck, just stay away.



what car enthusiast doesn't?



then dont start modding it, especially wtih a 302.



you think th enissan engine is unreliable...yet you want a 86-95 ford motor? please.

i want to slap everyone who just said the t5 that is mated to the 5.0 isnt a bad tranny. have yall ever actually shifted it? eww

my cummins turbo diesel tranny feels better

another chep v8 that doesnt suck....q45 with Z tranny. search for ellis autoworkz car

I had a mustang 5.0 for 2 years. the MOTOR never ever gave me a problem. It was the rest of the car that sucked. Tranny felt fine, little hard to shift but it wasnt hyrdrolic. The motor is reliable. Very reliable. KA's are not. Try getting 300hp out of a ka without the turbo. And for only a grand to work with, and still maintaing reliability.

And im a car enthusiast that have a dream to be able to drive the car i love, have ample power, and no i dont have alot of money.

It would cost a little more to just out right buy a LSI camaro.

[ThatGuy]

The motor is reliable. Very reliable. KA's are not. Try getting 300hp out of a ka without the turbo. And for only a grand to work with, and still maintaing reliability.

How many 4 cylinders can you make 300hp, without a turbo, for $1000, and have it be reliable? Your argument against the KA just crumbled. Try again.

[ledzeppelin240]

its funny to me that people still go back to the MPG associated with ls1 f and c bodies

I believe I heard 28mpg from somewhere on the net from the RX-7 guys or something???It was just a number I was throwing out there...This has become a Ford vs. Chev, the facts are there there but some people just keep passing them by....LSx owns Ford 302's.

Wow Nelson Racing has some serious stuff on thier site, friggin awesome. 4cyl engines are great, don't get me wrong, but when you have a power stroke every 180 degrees there is a limit. Compared to a V8 where you have a power stroke every 90 degrees and twice the amount of cyl. to make power with.

It's not just what engine is put in a car. I believe (as well as thousands of others) that it is all about overall balance of the driveterrain, suspension, the dynamics of the car, etc..That is where the LS1 comes out on top no doubt...

[shinrekka]

Im not saying anything bad about the LS series of engines. Its just that its expensive, very expensive. Not only that, then you have to buy the mount kit. And like I said, not everyone has that kind of money. I sure as hell dont have that kind of money to put into a car. If i did, i'd save a little more and buy a wrx. What ford 302's offer that the LSx series motors dont, is overall cheapness. Once the LSx series motors come down in price it would be a reasonable swap for "the rest of us". Im gonna take a hit just rebuilding and swapping in a CA and leaving it stock. Instead of swapping in a SR, why not swap in a 5.0 motor? It would be alot cheaper, more HP and a SHITLOAD more torque, thats were the V8 swap would come in handy. The gain in torque alone would be worth it. I understand and completly agree the LSx series motors are a much better platform, so im not trying to bash chevy or anything. I mean sure, if the LSx series had the same mounts as an old 350, i wouldnt of even posted in the first place. I did read on a post that the swap kit for the LS series engine, and an economy version for the 302 were coming out. I havnt heard of it since, and am incredibly disapointed.

As for MPG of the LSx series engine. My friend has a 06 GTO and it averages 15mpg on a easy day. Before that he had a 99 Z28 that averaged 20mph or so on the highway. Its a high displacement V8, its gonna get bad gas milage.

As for the Q45 motor, its a great motor an all, and i know its been done before. But its daul overhead cam. Which means it takes up alot more room. People have mated it to a Z32 tranny, but thats a whole nother bag of worms.

[shinrekka]

How many 4 cylinders can you make 300hp, without a turbo, for $1000, and have it be reliable? Your argument against the KA just crumbled. Try again.

ummm yeh thats not what i was saying, the answer is no, you cant get 300hp out of a KA allmotor, people are still saying its impossible to get 200hp to the wheels out of a KA. Even tho i think rebello racing makes them with damn near close to 300hp (to the crank). For the cost it would take, to get the KA to 300hp RELIABLY, you'd need to turbo it, do internals for reliability, spend money on feul upgrades, tuning, ect. For much much less u can have a all motor 302, no turbo, no nothing, just stupid bolt ons and a cam. I havnt had reliability problems with 302's (88+ w/ MAF). My friend has a mustang as well and does donuts well past redline untill all the belts fly off the engine (yes he's a moron) and he does it all the time. Never done a tune up, only had 1 problem in the last 4 years, distributer cap was shot (orig. cap too). Yes mustangs are absolutly terrible cars, but the motors are great. Takes too much work/money get get 300hp out of a KA. To much shit to deal with, tuning, boost leaks ect.

The 302's a solid platform for someone on a budget.

And u ask WHY do i say KA's suck? It takes to much money to get any kind of power out of it. And it dosent help that i've had several KA's leave me stranded and actually fail a semester of school. Many of my friends ka's have had to be replaced as well. I suppose there ok, i know the new "cool thing" is KA pride but i couldnt care less. Im never taking that route again. Theres so many better options out there. And i know its also cool to say "ford sucks" and having the bragging right to say i have "LS1" in my car.


Same reason alot of people swap in SR20's and not RB26 engines, money is a big factor.

[CKAMC]

shinrekka: regarding your remark about the MPG you need to consider this as well. A 240 weights around 2600~2700lbs with a motor while a GTO weights about 3,725~3,800.... So what happens when you put in a big motor into a lighter car? Better gas mileage because you dont have to put your foot down as much to achive certian ranges in both power and speed compared to pushing a heavier car.

Most of the people IMO who want to do a V8 into a 240 will likely shot high with the idea of an LSx motor... kinda defeats the idea of having a lightweight car by throwing in an engine thats heavier than the stock one that came in it.

KA is just another option and I like it due to the fact it requires a lot of dedication and time but when done correctly it works great. what makes it the "cool thing" is the fact that you have to understand a lot to be able to pull it off and everything you gain and learn from it.

ohh yeah rb26 is just too much thats why we hop onto the rb25 even the rb20 route ;)

[ledzeppelin240]

If you want real hp and tq you have to pay, thats just the way it is. Personally $3500-$4500 for a LS1, T56 tranny, all accesories, and everything required for it to run is not that bad at all.

But anyways how are the current LS1 swaps coming along???

[IDriveFords]

I know for a fact that the block in the 97-98' Mustang Cobras was an all aluminum block because I own one. It's a 4.6 liter modular motor and its insanely easy to work on. Not sure the cost of just the motor (mines still in my car). It's got a T-45 5speed tranny thats not very large. It looks like you could easily stuff that motor and tranny into a 240. I need to check the weight of the motor but I know its not very heavy becuz its an all alum block. My Cobra made 278hp and 278tq sitting at stock but this is not typical (mine is a factory freak). I personally wouldn't be able to afford this swap but it would be very interesting to see. This motor is very very popular amongst mustang owners because it is one of the best designed NA motors ever as far as reliability, workability, and mods are concerned. The 2005 Falken drift mustang actually has this motor in place of the stock 5.0 motor due to weight issues. This motor also seems to respond nicely to boost. I read an article about a twin turbo 97' cobra that was pushing upwards of 900 horse with a twin turbo setup and a nice buildup. I'm pretty sure you can order this motor through Ford racing, but I'm not sure of price. I know they do make a 5.0 liter "cammer" thats a 450 horse N/A motor and that one runs about 10g's. Another considerable swap would be the 03-04' Cobra motors but these are a bit bulkier and would probably throw off the weight dist. Just a thought. If anyone has the exact weight of the 97'-98' 4.6 liter cobra motors please chime in.

[S14DB]

The old 4v motors cannot handle 900 rwhp on the stock internals, MAYBE 450. The 03/04 motors can handle 600 safely. 03/04 are around $9k or so blower to pan complete. 96-01 4v's are $3-4k complete used.

The problem is that those motors are wide as a bus. Never fit between the strut towers.

[ledzeppelin240]

The problem is that those motors are wide as a bus. Never fit between the strut towers.

Yeah I remember reading on Zilvia.net (maybe even in this thread) that the engine is just too dam wide. Would be an alternative if it wasn't so wide and so expensive.....

Some LS1 info:

-Aftermaket or custom intake =10-12rwhp
-Porting MAFS & Throttle body =2-3rwhp
-Under Drive Pulleys =5rwhp

-Push rods of 5/16" diameter, 0.080" wall thickness, 4130 chrome-moly(reccomended), 1.85:1 Rocker arms, Upgraded valve springs w/titanium retainers =20rwhp/13rwtq

Total:37rwhp

The valve terrain of the LS1 is the weak spot so upgrading whil the engine is out would be a good idea, plus gaining some hp/tq. These are not going to be the exact same numbers for everybody but came from a reliable resource.

[fast93]

im kinda confused on the ls1 long block and shortblock is there a difference between those two? as in fitting, power, and price? as if the motor were going in a fastback 240sx

[ThatGuy]

Got to www.google.com and type in Longblock vs. Shortblock. Then come back and ask your questions. :duh:

[mistert]

ive been talking about diong this swap for years, and used to just get called a redneck. im glad to see so much fucking interest in it now, i know a couple people who are on board now too.

this ford vs chevy argument is fucking stupid. i build mopar performance crate engines, and feel the LSx is the way to go. if you want a cost effective simple swap do a used LSx motor. if you just have to have F(athers) O(ld) R(ubber) D(ick) power and want to be different, do the 302. just expect to upgrade alot more in the process of trying to make some decent power

if you got a little more money to spend, and want a new motor, go to SDPC and they have some specials going on right now. a 408ci iron block with forged steel rotating assembly is going for $3500 shipped, $4500 for a 402 using a new LS2 block. a set of L92 heads (6.2 escalade motor) goes for $800 assembled. you can find everything else you need to run the motor cheap and used all day

[haveblue]

if you got a little more money to spend, and want a new motor, go to SDPC and they have some specials going on right now. a 408ci iron block with forged steel rotating assembly is going for $3500 shipped, $4500 for a 402 using a new LS2 block. a set of L92 heads (6.2 escalade motor) goes for $800 assembled. you can find everything else you need to run the motor cheap and used all day

Part of the reason people are enamored with this swap is the low weight (less than a stock KA?). No one wants to run a heavy iron block. Otherwise people would go get a 350 SBC from a junk yard, some carbs and have a blast.

[mistert]

Part of the reason people are enamored with this swap is the low weight (less than a stock KA?). No one wants to run a heavy iron block. Otherwise people would go get a 350 SBC from a junk yard, some carbs and have a blast.

it was just a suggestion, and guess what the iron block GEN III is only another 75lbs than LS1 so its still a good weight drop. not to mention its a budget alternative to the LS2 based 402

if you want big cubes without sleeving and not worry about warping the cylinders iron block is the way to go. that would allow you to run a huge nitrous shot or forced induction

however i guess even a stock bottom end ls1 or ls2 with cam and LT's should be more than sufficient for most 240 owners power needs, but im sure someone out there wants to drag race...

[shinrekka]

F(athers) O(ld) R(ubber) D(ick)

F(irst) O(n) R(ace) D(ay)

[EchoOfSilence]

Yeah, back in the 60's and partly 70's

more like
F(irst) O(n) R(oad) D(isabled)

[fouz]

i got a question. i only know of 3 ls1-s14 before mine (hinson, someguy on ls1tech.com and that ebay one). but can anyone help me with my parking lights and blinkers. when i pulled the ka ecu and the harness, if it didnt unplug from the engine harness it came out with it. everything works (as far as i know at this time) but no parking lights or blinkers. is there a part of the engine harness that has something to do with them?

and a link to my build http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578081
i will also be doing a up-to-date cost soon.

[fouz]

seen a few question about price so here is mine up to today (cant find fuel system reciept so add 500 i think). still a few more things to get.


motor, tran, ecu, wire, shaft, shifter 3800
volt, oil, water temp, gauges 176.26
oil pan 355
hsc nissan mod master cylinder 79
hsc new ss clutch line 83.5
shiping 18.5
steering wheel and plate 51.87
hsc headers plus shiping 896.63
hsc cooling package and shiping 667.58
cpu vats and rear o2 removel 125
j30 rear end 253
4" exhaust tip 24.99
18" of 3" exhaust pipe 5.99
new thermstat ,houseing, gasket 38.27
plugs for gauges, hood pins, toggle switch 30.62
12' of battery cable,battery top post, more wire stuff 53.93
6' of 3" exhaust 18
18" of 3" exhaust pipe 5.99
6' of 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 angle iron 21


total 6705.13

[KRUZNBY]

^Is 3" exhaust better for V8 NA applications than smaller diameters?

[ThatGuy]

3" exhaust is better, PERIOD.

Better for Stock KA, better for V8. I used to run 3.5" straight pipes on a 327 small block. Of course that was in a classic Chevy, but still... Big exahust is Gooooooooood.

[mistert]

yes youll see some ls1 guys running dual 3" with a y pipe to 4" exhaust. good luck finding somewhere to hide that piping though

if i end up buying another s14 and doing this swap, i plan to just do an X pipe after the headers, keep it true dual 3" with bullets and turndowns, as short as can be done reasonably. this is a really popular setup with the camaro guys and if done right can maximize gruond clearance and save a little weight while sounding ground

im just still debating if its worth blowing that much money on another 240sx or if i should be trying to save up for a down payment on a house..

[EchoOfSilence]

HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE HOUSE
go get some.

[fouz]

i comeing out the headers with 3" and then a y pipe to 3 1/2" out the back. the only size i could find at local shops was 3". the next was a 18 wheeler shop and the smallest was 5". i got the 7' (which is way too much) of 3 1/2" for free. so im useing it. i got alot of little stuff for free. misc size metal to make mounts and brackets and some pipeing. some alum brackets custom made for my fuel lines. my mufflers will be custom made (cost me $20 i think, will be a simple design), 2 small ones for the 3" and 1 for the 3 1/2". and a new shifter boot. just little stuff that i know where i can get for free or have made for free. maybe a total of $500. some of it gheto and some of it nice.

[Iceman00]

*laughs*

The KA motor and Transmission combo Don't weigh 600lbs, and the LSX motor and tranny don't wiegh Sub 500lbs.

GM list the LS6 motor with a manual Flywheel at around 496lbs, and Corvettes has the transmission mounted SPERATE from the Motor. A T56 trans will weigh in over 130lbs.

Transmission
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2930
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0405_tough_t56_transmission/
Engine:
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/z06/ls1ls6.html
(notice it says NOTHING about transmission)

[Iceman00]

And the LS6 (ZO6 corvette) Does not have an automatic conterpart.

[Iceman00]

500+130=630
And thats also a lot more cash for the Swap. Go SR, KA-T or VQ...or Go home.

[ledzeppelin240]

So the differnece between the Manual and Automatic engine weight is 40lbs, which means that the flywheel on a manual LS1 weights 40lbs???? It just so happens that I pulled the Ka with all acc. and tranny out of my 240 yesterday so tomorrow I will weigh it and get back to you... Oh yeah, who wants an automatic tranny unless it is state of the art Ferrari/Mercedes style?

So for $3500 you can have a reliable 350hp out of a stock engine. This is a FAq about V8 swaps and you bring you stupid ideas into here. When you show me a time slip that you ran 11's with a SR, KA-t or VQ swap and have a breakdown of price then maybe I will take what you say serious. THe LS1 is going to be cheaper and more reiliable.

[Iceman00]

YOu can grab a VQ block for a Lot cheaper than a LSX motor. Not to mention its Lighter.

NO need to be rude though, because If I were considering this swap, I'd be upset that someone gave me the wrong info.

And Sport Compact Car has the Wieght of a Fully dressed KA with 5 speed manual as around 497. Only10 or so pounds more than a full SR20DET swap, and Still loss than the 630+lbs of a LSX swap.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/allen22/IMG_2878.jpg
Vq swap s14. I doubt the LS motor does that to the front end.

[ledzeppelin240]

Well my car looks that high in the front end and has no engine or tranny. So thats loosing 596 lbs. I would like to see the engine that is actually in that car, cause I doubt it has an engine. The VQ does not compare to the LS1 anyways, it is a 6cyl and this is a V8 FAQ... So for $3500 get a LS1 with a 6 speed manual tranny and go run 11's stock. The LS1 is a lighweight engine due it its all aluminum block/head/composite intake. So I am going by what people have weighed the engines in at because that site makes no sense how a flywheel for a V8 engine weights 40lbs.

[mistert]

a stock ls2 makes more torque off idle than the vq's peak all the way to redline

instead of hating on the LSx swap and arguing for the vq swap, why not go participate in a VQ swap thread

[Iceman00]

YOUR WRONG. Accept it. The LSX series motors with thier inferior drivetrain are NOT lighter than the KA. They Are NOT lighter than a VQ, and for cost of this swap, your better off with a VQ swap, and some spray.

It wasn't ment to be a flamefest. I call it how I see it.

[Iceman00]

Well my car looks that high in the front end and has no engine or tranny. So thats loosing 596 lbs. I would like to see the engine that is actually in that car, cause I doubt it has an engine. The VQ does not compare to the LS1 anyways, it is a 6cyl and this is a V8 FAQ... So for $3500 get a LS1 with a 6 speed manual tranny and go run 11's stock. The LS1 is a lighweight engine due it its all aluminum block/head/composite intake. So I am going by what people have weighed the engines in at because that site makes no sense how a flywheel for a V8 engine weights 40lbs.
THE KA motor and transmission DO NOT WEIGH 600lbs. Period. A fully dressed KA WITH transmission is 49Xlbs. Sport Compact Car has this listed.

Freshalloy Has a Whole archive of VQ swaps on 240sx's, be my guest and prove me wrong.

There are a few reasons to do this swap, and Weight reduction is NOT one of them.

[SicBastard]

Unfortunately it is true that the stock LS1 flywheel approaches 50 (not 40) lbs! It's sad because the flywheel in the T56 equipped cobras only weighs 12 lbs. I don't know what GM was thinking. No fear though, the after market is starting to come alive with new cluthches like the textralia dual, that weighs under 50lbs with the pressure plate and clutch attached!

Brian Hinson weighed the KA (with auto tranny attached) that he pulled out his S14. It weighed 596 lbs. Also, a lot of the weight of the LS1 swap is in the 140 lb T56 6 speed. Which is lower and further back than the engines, something to think about. Besides you don't get the glorious, (used in Aston martins, designed for vipers) gimme 500 ftlbs anyday T56, with any nissan swaps.

And PS... If you have nothing to contribute to V8, I'll repeat it... V8 silvias...

GET LOST

[ledzeppelin240]

Brian Hinson weighed the KA (with auto tranny attached) that he pulled out his S14. It weighed 596 lbs. Also, a lot of the weight of the LS1 swap is in the 140 lb T56 6 speed. Which is lower and further back than the engines, something to think about. Besides you don't get the glorious, (used in Aston martins, designed for vipers) gimme 500 ftlbs anyday T56, with any nissan swaps.

And PS... If you have nothing to contribute to V8, I'll repeat it... V8 silvias...

GET LOST
__________________

Thank you, I might have been drinkin a little too much lately which is affecting my thoughs so getting what I mean in my head typed out is kinda hard. All I know is that I am buying a LS1 next summer and becomming a track whore...

[fouz]

my finshed car price. been driving it for about a week or so, just little short trips to keep an eye on things. tires dont spin as bad as i thought but if you want em to spin they will. front end just pulls up real hard and goes. only thing i dont like about it is now im broke :duh: .


motor, tranny, harness, pcm, shifter 3800
volt, oil, water temp, gauges 176.26
oil pan 355
hsc nissan mod master cylinder 79
hsc new ss clutch line 83.5
shiping 18.5
steering wheel and plate 51.87
hsc headers plus shiping 896.63
hsc cooling package and shiping 667.58
cpu vats and rear o2 removel 125
j30 rear end 253
4" exhaust tip 24.99
18" or 3" exhaust pipe 5.99
new thermstat ,houseing, gasket 38.27
plugs for gauges, hood pins, toggle switch 30.62
12' of battery cbale,battery top post, more wire stuff 53.93
6' of 3" exhaust 18
18" of 3" exhaust pipe 5.99
6' of 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 angle iron 21
more wire stuff, toggle switch 16.47
main battery fuse 54.49
intake clamps, k&n filter, new check rngine light 65.67
heater hose, clamps 15.84
new steel drive shaft 275.32
misc exhaust 17.53
fuel system, dip stick, intake 90 618.85

total. 7769.3


btw:i got the blickers working. i didnt have the emergency flasher switch pluged up cause the dash wasnt in the car. the only thing not working now is the front parking lights (dunno why, maybe just a fuse). and wipers will not work cause the plug to them was part of the engine harness. but i found a thread with some wire info for them.

[SicBastard]

I already sold my engine harness... doh! I was pretty proud of myself for not damaging/crushing a single connector. I've got an s14 as well. So if you figure out a solution for the wipers PLEASE please post it up! Do you know of anything else that relies on the engine harness?

Did all J30s come with limited slips? Was it a direct bolt in to the s14? Does it always lay two nice stripes?

[fouz]

only thing i found thats was part of the engine harness was the wipers. as i said my front corner light aint working. dunno why for sure. but everything down to the electic mirrors work.

link to info on wiper wires. http://www2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=157283
yet to test the info. but im only going to hook up my wipers for high and thats it. and im not useing the plug for the wiper. just some 1/4" wire connects will fit on the wiper plugs. im sure with some work you could use the stock wiper switch but im not going to.

on the rear end. from everything i heard all infinty cars come with lsd. just turn the output shafts and both should turn the same way and should be harder to turn then a open one. they say 95+ j30s are bolt on. the one i got was a 95 and its a bolt-on. get your drive shaft made after you get your rear end cause its got a abs sensor on the front making it 3/4" longer then the 240 (unless yours has abs). they say the q45 is a bolt-on but the one i saw at the yard wasnt. cause i wanted the q45 for the higher gears. just look at the output shaft before buying it. they should have 3 sets of 2 bolts. like a triangle shape with 2 bolts and each point. the q45 i saw was a 5 star bolt pattern. i havent really got out and looked at the tire marks but atm im not running matching tires. i have one odd rim and tire on the back. 3 stock rims and tires and one thats a 17x7 rim that im useing as a spare. and the tire thats on the 17x7 dont grip like the ones on the stock rims. as hard as it pulls i pretty sure they are both griping.

[Iceman00]

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=129330&page=2&highlight=vq+swap

I don't see were the extra 100lbs is comming from....

500lbs > 630. Stop unsing weight reduction as a reason for this swap. Distrubition may be better though.

[ledzeppelin240]

Did you read the rest of that thread you posted???


The problem with a VG30DE is that is an extremely heavy engine, i remember i saw a thread in TT.net where a guy weighed one, and fully dressed it weighed like 624 lbs, and with the transmission attached it was almost 746 lbs . in fact, there was a guy that put an LS1 in a Z and he said that fully dressed the LS1 weighed approx. 150 less than a NA VG.

There is so much mangled information on the internet. I am personally going to weigh the KA myself and the LS1. No matter how it goes stock for stock LS1 will be quicker....I see where you got the picture from, but thats only 29lbs. difference between the KQ and VQ, removing all A/C and other non used stuff off my KA lightened the engine bay by about 50lbs. and the front end of my car did not pop up like that....So i duno what is going on there.

[Iceman00]

Its Sitting further back. VQ > VG.

[zenkis1495]

Is this what happens when rednecks want to drift?

[ledzeppelin240]

I guess they put larger displacement engines and funking rip it up...Torque is good, and with a LS1 you get it. Do you have the balls to drive this bottomless pit of torque???

Ok Hinson Super Cars states the Stock KA w/tranny=596lbs. and a Stock LS1 w/tranny =470lbs. Which means the LS1 is 128lbs lighter, so you should contact them with the correct weights...

[Kinematics]

Now if i wanted to do the most basic swap. I would atleast do the following.

Cam $190-$300
Timing chain (zo6) $80.00
Cromoly pushrods $90.00
Valve springs (dual) $200.00
Titainium retainers $75.00
160 Deg T-stat $50.00
Underdrive pulley $140-280
Belt tensioner $150-200
Clutch $300-$$$$$
ECU tuning software. $500-1800

Why?

How is adding all that crap to an LS1 make it a "most basic" swap? You mean a "most basic" swap with an extra couple grand in unnecessary parts attached for no reason. The cluch, few maintenance items understandable. The cam, pushrods, etc? No wonder people think this swap is so expensive, when you (Zilvia's appointed v8 resource) considers all these extra parts a necessity to any LS1 swap.

Sounds like overkill to me. If an LS1 in an FD with headers and some other minor things nets you high 11s... putting all those extra parts on the motor to make it even FASTER before you've even driven the thing is just making the initial cost even larger and would make the car even scarier. I am sure high 11s is faster than 95% of what all of Zilvia has ever gone in the quarter, and the amount of power a stock LS1 makes is more than enough for road racing, drifting, drag, whatever..

The buttload of torque the LS1 makes also (in my opinion) will be a lot more of a handful in a light S-chassis car. Naturally aspirated 300+hp/tq is a lot different than the same amount of power with a turbo, and the ability to spin the tires in any gear at any speed is definitely not something to tool around with. I can just think of all the idiots who drop the money to get this done and then think they can floor it anywhere they go like anyone can with an SR. There are plenty of videos online of Corvettes, FBodies, etc.. banging 2nd while WOT and just going completely sideways and losing control. I am sure losing control in an S-chassis car wouldn't take much effort at all.

There has also been a lot of talk in this thread regarding the poor oil pickup system. If we have to convert to a GTO oilpan/pickup.. uhh.. hello?! How many GTOs are out there road racing, drifting, etc, without any oil pickup or sump problems? Can't we just leave the motor stock and not nitpick and waste more money over false issues like this? at the very least, get a girdle or baffles for the oil pan. I guess that's the problem with us S-chassis guys, we can't just leave something alone, it has to be modified to the fullest extent possible.

-------------------------------

What is the solution for making an LS1 compatable with stock s-chassis gauges? Will there be any change in the output signal necessary to make the speedometer and tachometer work?

As for the rear end, Ivan with the 9.22sec S14 is on the stock (welded) rear end and axles. So I think replacing those things is just another unnecessary cost seeing as how they will handle a ton of power.

I am a bit skeptical about the marketing of the Hinsen kit. The kit for the FC is less than 400 dollars, but the S14/S13 is over a thousand. The FC even is a custom piece, and not just a modification of the subframe that you have to ship in. I understand costs for research, design, etc.. but considering that a completely custom kit for the FC is 600 dollars cheaper sounds backwards to me.

I am exploring other options beyond the Hinsen kit. I also have access for fabrication, so that will give me an advantage over those who may not. This swap in my opinion can be done for a lot cheaper than some of the quotes listed in this thread so far, and hopefully I will be the one to prove it. A stock LS1 would be more than enough for me and just about everyone else out there considering this swap, and if for whatever reason it isn't, you can always add a 150 shot. I am surprised no one has yet mentioned how much LS1s love the juice. Before any of you say "Hey dumbshit, you can't drift with nitrous," you guys should all think how the fuck you expect to drift and have any sense of control when you have 400ft-lbs of naturally aspirated torque, too.

Hopefully what I have typed up raises some further thought into the LS1 swap.

[Neejay]

Hopefully what I have typed up raises some further thought into the LS1 swap.
Very good points...

In your opinion, what should be an estimated price of this swap (stock)?

I have always said if I did this swap, staying stock would be plenty for me...with the exception of a few very MINOR upgrades.

[Kinematics]

It really depends on how much fabrication you are willing to do yourself, and how much you get the motor for.

I am thinking closer to the 5k range assuming you can get a motor and trans for around 3k. I have seen modified motors sell for that much on LS1 forums, you could probably find a low milage stock one in a junk yard or on Craigslist. They seem to sell (motor alone) for around 2000-2500 on Ebay.

[Neejay]

It really depends on how much fabrication you are willing to do yourself, and how much you get the motor for.

I am thinking closer to the 5k range assuming you can get a motor and trans for around 3k. I have seen modified motors sell for that much on LS1 forums, you could probably find a low milage stock one in a junk yard or on Craigslist. They seem to sell (motor alone) for around 2000-2500 on Ebay.
What about someone who would have to pay for everything? I dont have garage space nor a driveway to do any fabrication of any sort. I would assume that this is a costly swap for anyone who would have to pay for EVERYTHING.

[Kinematics]

Not sure, there are really too many factors involved. It sounds like you would be stuck getting the Hinsen kit, which unless they lower the price anytime soon is going to add a grand to your swap. You'll also have to determine what to do about exhaust.. I already have a 3" catback and was just going to route the exhaust from the LS1 to it, and have an electric cutout installed at a later date. You could get away with this on the stock exhaust, though the motor would be pretty choked if you wanted to get on it without a cutout.

It really just depends on how cheap you can manage to find parts for, and labor for things like the exhaust, driveshaft, or any installations that you wouldn't be doing.

[Neejay]

Not sure, there are really too many factors involved. It sounds like you would be stuck getting the Hinsen kit, which unless they lower the price anytime soon is going to add a grand to your swap. You'll also have to determine what to do about exhaust.. I already have a 3" catback and was just going to route the exhaust from the LS1 to it, and have an electric cutout installed at a later date. You could get away with this on the stock exhaust, though the motor would be pretty choked if you wanted to get on it without a cutout.

It really just depends on how cheap you can manage to find parts for, and labor for things like the exhaust, driveshaft, or any installations that you wouldn't be doing.
hmm...true. Thanks.

[SicBastard]

The LS1 mods listed above could mostly be considered reliability mods. The pushrods have been known to bend for no reason. The stock cams are insanely conservative (thus the 28mpg), and consequently so are the valve springs. And the cost benefit ratio of a cam swap is too good to ignore. For a total cost of $650 (less if you really shop around or buy a used cam) you can raise the rev limit safely to almost 7000 rpm (stock LS1 is 5800 to 6600 depending on model) and raise the rwhp +50 with almost no loss of low end torque, all while gaining reliability. I don't care how cheap you are. That's hard to ignore.

Cam 175-360
springs 125-200
pushrods 99-150

[warmmilk]

to the guy that can't stop talking about weight, the ka was weighed with the auto tranny, stock cast exhaust mani and stock cats, where as the ls1 with a manual tranny, stainless headers and no cats

so with every thing being equal they would probably weigh about the same but with much more potential


post # 119 http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=33444&page=5&pp=25

[Kinematics]

The LS1 mods listed above could mostly be considered reliability mods. The pushrods have been known to bend for no reason. The stock cams are insanely conservative (thus the 28mpg), and consequently so are the valve springs. And the cost benefit ratio of a cam swap is too good to ignore. For a total cost of $650 (less if you really shop around or buy a used cam) you can raise the rev limit safely to almost 7000 rpm (stock LS1 is 5800 to 6600 depending on model) and raise the rwhp +50 with almost no loss of low end torque, all while gaining reliability. I don't care how cheap you are. That's hard to ignore.

Cam 175-360
springs 125-200
pushrods 99-150


Hi, we are talking about a stock setup. :wavey: Not everyone wants to drop mods into the motor right away, and want to keep the initial startup cost to a minumum.

[SicBastard]

No, you were talking about being cheap. If you're going to do something do it right. And with an LS1 that includes new pushrods and a clutch, like blu808 stated.

[fouz]

just some of my opinion. i could be wrong.

well as far as hitting the 5k mark for this swap. getting a motor set and getting it in the car is just step one out of like five . first you will need a atleast a new fuel pump, a FPR, new lines (maybe use the old ones). then a radiator, fan, hoses. new clutch master, clutch line. new drive shaft. a gto oil pan, windage tray, pick up tube, dip stick. removing VATS and rear O2 sensors (or a vats bypass). then headers and exhausts. i think people are finding ways to use the stock headers but you'll have to search a bit on that. now, just the above will run you no less then $1500. around that number (its just a fast guess, if you can get it all for that price, buy it). i think 6k is about the cheapest you could get it done. and thats alot of shoping around and R&D. but you should have more money to make sure you can finish. i gambled on my stock clutch and got lucky. i never pulled the tranny from the engine and hoped i got lucky. my prices have alot of litte stuff. like gauges, steering wheels, relocating battery, a $50 fuse for the battery, rear end and some misc stuff. i tryed to get as cheap as possible but do it as right as i could for the money. just expect to pay alittle more then you planed. my goal was $7500 and i got real close. my other goal is rims, tires, paint and the swap at 10k. im like most people. i aint rich and been saving for awhile to do something like this. you only live once and you cant take it with you.

[warmmilk]

fouz,
post some pics and a vid of your car

[fouz]

pics, tomorrow maybe. video, in a few weeks, dyno and 1/8 mile track. car is stock tuned ATM. i wanna dyno tune it before going to the track. a link to some pics a few pages back. none of it finished yet.


just added two pics to the theard. was late so...

[Iceman00]

to the guy that can't stop talking about weight, the ka was weighed with the auto tranny, stock cast exhaust mani and stock cats, where as the ls1 with a manual tranny, stainless headers and no cats

so with every thing being equal they would probably weigh about the same but with much more potential


post # 119 http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=33444&page=5&pp=25

Maybe you should read what I posted. I don't know HOW Henson got his weights, but they are Wrong.

An LS1 Motor does NOT weight around 360lbs. The T56 Transmission on its own is around 130lbs or more. I'm not buying it, nor should you.

Don't belive me? Look it up!

Both Sport compact, and and that guys resluts (look at the link I posted) match. Brians is way off the mark.

[SicBastard]

I think that Brian's only mistake was that he listed the LS1s weight as including the trans. Sport compact just listed the ls1s fully dressed weight as 480 something. Which sounds about right considering that the original SBC is commonly known to wiegh about 575 and the lightweight (by domestic v8 standards) ford 302 is known to weigh about 510.

[ledzeppelin240]

Well I will no longer use weight as a reason to do the swap then, cause the weights appear to be quite close between the stock KA and LS1. Nothing beats V8 tq/hp in a 2600lb. car

[Jesses240]

Where are you guys finding these 2000-2500$ motor/tranny combos!

I havent seen anything for less than 5k on ebay

I've been waiting to find a ls1 motor tranny and seriously 5k is the lowest ive seen...

[fouz]

dunno about your area but go to your local junkyard. almost every time i walk in one around here they have one sitting on a stand in the front. most give you a warranty. and some you give you more time on the warranty if you tell them its in a project car. being as you cant go home and have it up and running in a week. just ask, all they can say is "no". ask if they can ring it up with no taxes. some of them around here will. again all they can say is "no". and try to talk em down on the price.

[Ghostdrifter]

It really depends on how much fabrication you are willing to do yourself, and how much you get the motor for.

I am thinking closer to the 5k range assuming you can get a motor and trans for around 3k. I have seen modified motors sell for that much on LS1 forums, you could probably find a low milage stock one in a junk yard or on Craigslist. They seem to sell (motor alone) for around 2000-2500 on Ebay.

I've seen one on craigslist motor and tranny for 2k.

[Ghostdrifter]

Where are you guys finding these 2000-2500$ motor/tranny combos!

I havent seen anything for less than 5k on ebay

I've been waiting to find a ls1 motor tranny and seriously 5k is the lowest ive seen...

Down south here with the good 'ol boys
where Chevy is the king and Ford is the prince LOL

[Iceman00]

I emailed Brain, and He's the responce I got

"We weighed an LS2 tonight, and it would appear that our initial numbers are off. We'll update our website when we finalize the information.
Brian Hinson
HinsonSuperCars.com
205.887.5161"

[MURPHY]

already started saving. gonna shoot for under or about 5k with me doing wiring, exhaust, headers, having a shop do drive shaft and using a large (idk what will fit) radiator with a Taurus fan, etc. But for fuel, i haven't had any bright ideas, anyone got any? lol

p.s. is this daily driver material? idk if i should drop it in my daily or an extra chassis. im thinking in the dd would be fine

[SicBastard]

doesn't get any cheaper than a walbro 341 and it will support well over 600hp

[MURPHY]

ok. cool cool. i deff think i can get it for under 5k. i have a friend who did it in a rx7 and all the radiator and everything cost 200$ for universal stuff. so i think with enough help, shopping and time i can do it for 5k. idk how long until i do it tho, hopefully not to long.

any idea how much gas a 240ls1 would get? since the ls1 gets 28 (right?) and then into a lighter chassis

[ledzeppelin240]

I have heard number of 32-34mpg. It will definatly get some decent milage though as long as its not WOT. Shoot me some sites or info on the universal stuff you find. HSC has as nice fuel setup so you could get ideas from that and go from there.

Iceman00 I figure after looking around some that the LS1 is going to weigh about 596lbs. so that is the same as the KA??? But when you get the figures I am interested because I was close minded before.

[drift donkey]

I think these guys are going to be putting out a kit some time in the near future.

www.grannysspeedshop.com

sorry if it doesn't pop as a link.:loco:

[fouz]

may answer questions about weight.

(this is a copy and paste from my ls1tech thread)

i put the car on the scale today. was alittle heavier then i was hoping but the front/rear %'s was pretty nice. alittle info first so you will know what was on the scale. the car is a stock 95 240sx se (loaded but with no sun roof). ls1, t56, j30 rear end, steel drive shaft, no a/c compressor, no a/c coil, no heater coil, no fan (for heat,a/c) fake glove box (just the cover is on, almost everything was taken out under the dash), long tube headers to 3" to y-pipe to 3.5" to a bullet style muffer,5/8 of a tank of gas. battery in the trunk and a empty no2 bottle. the only thing in the car that didnt need to be there was my lunch box (i gotta eat) and every fluid a car would need and a few little misc things. if my math is right the front/rear % is, front=53.42%, rear=46.58%. front is 1560, rear is 1360, total is 2920. take out the misc stuff and it will put it right back to stock weight, 2880. maybe will answer a few peoples questions about weight.

im set to go to the dyno nov 10.
edit: added battery location and the empty bottle.

[ledzeppelin240]

Yeah basically the same weight but double the cylinders and way more potential. Although he did remove a lot of things from his car, but nothing that is really heavy.

[S14DB]

WAIT

Are we talking about this guys build up or is this turning into another BS Domestic V8 vs JDM In-line thread? Cause I'll be happy to clean it up if that happens.

[MURPHY]

^it sure seems like its turning into a weight vs weight thread.

but a couple people trying to debate it.

[Neejay]

WAIT

Are we talking about this guys build up or is this turning into another BS Domestic V8 vs JDM In-line thread? Cause I'll be happy to clean it up if that happens.
I think it's back on schedule now. lol This guy's build just came up, as he's just informing us personally of his pros/cons/build up.

[g6civcx]

I have decided on a stock LS1 (for now) with the GM Performance carburetor conversion for easy tuning. Anyone else thought about this combo?

[Chin180sx]

UUMMM. I have a slight vaccum leak but i cant tell where its coming from, can one of you guys help me. Heres a vid..

http://video.ls1tech.com/search/MS4/0/2356914d-0264-44bd-bebe-985b0119ad02.htm

[mikespeed95]

I know for a fact that the block in the 97-98' Mustang Cobras was an all aluminum block because I own one. It's a 4.6 liter modular motor and its insanely easy to work on. Not sure the cost of just the motor (mines still in my car). It's got a T-45 5speed tranny thats not very large. It looks like you could easily stuff that motor and tranny into a 240. I need to check the weight of the motor but I know its not very heavy becuz its an all alum block.

you're correct. its not heavy because its aluminum block, it is heavy because its a v8, its a reinforced block, it has twin cam heads with lots of moving parts, and that is what makes it heavy.

My Cobra made 278hp and 278tq sitting at stock but this is not typical (mine is a factory freak).

sorry to burst your bubble, but its not a factory freak, it was probably just done on a dynojet or something that reads higher than mustang dynos which is what most people use.


I personally wouldn't be able to afford this swap but it would be very interesting to see.

yet you have a cobra....but you cant afford a 3k car and a 4k swap, which woudl yeild a 2800lb car with 300+rwhp reliably. interesting.

This motor is very very popular amongst mustang owners because it is one of the best designed NA motors ever as far as reliability, workability, and mods are concerned.

running low 14's 's is also popular in the mustang community.

you know what is a popular swap to enthusiasts looking to go fast?

ls1 foxbody.

The 2005 Falken drift mustang actually has this motor in place of the stock 5.0 motor due to weight issues.

no, they ditched the 4.6 liter 3v due to:
no aftermarket
sean hyland built it, sean hyland likes 4v, sean hylands 4v motors are bad ass

This motor also seems to respond nicely to boost. I read an article about a twin turbo 97' cobra that was pushing upwards of 900 horse with a twin turbo setup and a nice buildup.

you dont have a terminator engine, so please dont compare.

I'm pretty sure you can order this motor through Ford racing, but I'm not sure of price. I know they do make a 5.0 liter "cammer" thats a 450 horse N/A motor and that one runs about 10g's.

gay

Another considerable swap would be the 03-04' Cobra motors but these are a bit bulkier and would probably throw off the weight dist. Just a thought. If anyone has the exact weight of the 97'-98' 4.6 liter cobra motors please chime in.

or not, because not only are these motors hard to find, they are pretty damn wide, and in ls1 price range, and since ls1 owns the ever living fuck out of the mod motor in EVERY aspect, dont waste your time with it.

sorry to drag up an old post, it was just that fucking stupid.

[ledzeppelin240]

I have decided on a stock LS1 (for now) with the GM Performance carburetor conversion for easy tuning.

Carburetor, are you serious??? It is a FI engine and carburetors are a thing of the past, so let it go...FI is way more accurate and the tuning is very easy, just change the PCM tune. Please man, please do not convert a FI engine to a carburator...

[g6civcx]

Carburetor, are you serious??? It is a FI engine and carburetors are a thing of the past, so let it go...FI is way more accurate and the tuning is very easy, just change the PCM tune. Please man, please do not convert a FI engine to a carburator...

Yes, I am serious. It greatly reduces wiring and the manifold is very simple to install. Both have been proven to make approximately the same amount of power, and the carbs actually deliver smoother throttle response. The FI can be a little twitchy sometimes when tuned with high overlap cams.

You did not give a good reason to stay with FI. Plus carbs can be tuned in a second. Wiring will be greatly reduced as well as installation and rebuild time.

Plus anybody can tune a carb. You don't need fancy equipment. Joe Bob and his redneck brother Billy Bob at the gas station down the street can fix my engine easily :naughty:


But seriously, I'm having enough issues with the rest of the car. I am not looking for more complexity with the engine. I'm sick of the SR right now and I want to ditch the turbo.