V8 240sx FAQ [Archive] - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

SicBastard

11-13-2006, 07:37 AM

One of many good reason to go efi is for the electronic throttle control. I'm not even going to bother mentioning driveability, or changing atmospheric conditions. A lot of people are steering away from it because they think it's complicated, but it's really not. For $450 bucks you can go fully programable with an LS1 and get access to every table in the GM VCM. Which includes traction control and the reaction rates of the throttle body. Which is the best way to control a twitchy throttle especially with the large 90mm TBs like my LS7 one that I scored for $182 shipped. I payed $32 for a corvette pedal, but still need a TAC. And you'll be pleased to know that injectors for the domestic crowd are about half of what they are in Nissan land. I payed $250 for a matched set of #50 racetronix. Mustang 5.0 fuel rails fit the LS1 if you put them on backwards and can be had for $60.

Total $974
a good carb is well over $600, and you still don't have spark control, and the LS1 has no place to drive a distributor, unless you buy that fancy/rare MSD monstrosity.
and did I mention traction control!?

ThatGuy

11-13-2006, 09:39 AM

Having driven and worked on a few Small Block Chevy's and a Dodge or two with carbs, I can say... Go Fuel Injected! :keke:

Carbs are cool, but when you're putting down serious power, it get's pretty annoying. Especially with where I'm living now, humidity + carbs = constant tuning. Constant adjustments and changing jets all the time get's tedious and old really fast.

Good luck to you.

ledzeppelin240

11-13-2006, 10:27 AM

I guess i didn't give any reasons why to stay FI. The FI is timed down to the milliseconds of injector duration and is so accurate, due to it always changing for all conditions that are sensed by the sensors. Plus you would be getting rid of that composite manifold that keeps the LS1 compact.

Like SicBastard said the tuning is actually quite easy, there are so many not badly priced tuning software out there it is awesome.

g6civcx

11-13-2006, 11:22 AM

I appreciate all the responses. For now I will go ahead with the carb setup and see how that goes. If it gets to be too much of a problem, I'm going back to FI.

Generally I like the usablity of the FI more, to tell the truth, but I love the simplicity of the carb. It's no big deal to tune either, but I would prefer to tune the carb more, even if it involves rejetting.

No big deal. I'll start with the carb and play with both setup and see how it works out.

MURPHY

11-13-2006, 01:55 PM

ledzeppelin240

11-13-2006, 04:42 PM

Here are some good sites that deal with the wiring:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312119

Probably one of the best sites explaining the wiring. I was thinking about getting HSC to just do the wiring for me cause I really don't want to rewire the engine harness after already spending hours rewiring the chassis. But that site is pretty good so I might just save the $400 for something else...

MURPHY

11-13-2006, 04:50 PM

honestly id find someone cheaper to do the wiring who can do it well, if there is any one else yet. hinson seems to be overpriced on there stuff, i mean i plan to get there mounting kit and thats probably it threw them. just cause they want 135$ for a walboro when here on zilvia we can get em for 85$ shipped, ya know. and i like sourcing my parts and doing it right, while saving some $

is there anyone on the site willing to do the wiring? and for obviously cheaper then HSC, just wanna know my options

p.s.
"in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.

the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard."
he makes it sound so easy

fouz

11-13-2006, 05:52 PM

p.s.
"in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.

the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard."
he makes it sound so easy

it is that easy. 5 pinks, 1 orange, 1 black. fuel pump is one wire. fans one more. but the only things missing after that is speedo, tach, reverse lights and the clutch switch so it only cranks with the clutch pushed in. ATM im only runnig on the pinks, orange, black, fuel pump wire, purple starter wire. yes, i dont have reverse lights and it will crank in gear and no speedo. i will have tach by the end of the week. i have put atleast 500 miles on the car as is. only thing i plan on hooking up is speedo and tach. dont be scared of the wiring cause it is easy. i had a guy that was going to wire mine up and after looking at it i done it my self. i just knew i didnt have a chance of doing it myself but it dont get no easier then it is. ok, i did hook up the check engine light and the obdII plug so that is 6 more wires. it is still easy.

then if you want a/c you will have a few more. your wind sheild wipers are the only thing on the car that will not work w/o the engine harness in. after pulling my engine and harness i put the battery back in and everything worked down to the stock alarm, eletric mirrors and so on. the only thing that didnt work was my blinkers and that is because i had the dash out and the hazard switch was not pluged in. after i put the dash back and pluged in the switch everything worked. my wind sheild wipers are now a one speed on/off. i just put a switch on them.

MURPHY

11-13-2006, 06:10 PM

wait wth you dont need the engine harness if you dont want windshield wipers....i think i missread what you posted?
if you dont need the harness then where do you get the wires from.... ka harness wires?

i deff think i miss read your post

fouz

11-13-2006, 07:46 PM

ok. your lights and blinkers and everytihng on the car (except windsheild wipers) doesnt run off the engine harness. if you look at your battery there are 2 white and red wires that run to the fuse box right behing the battery. those 2 wires power everything in the car. the big wire on the battery is part of the engine harness and is just the power for the start and return on the alternator. same as the ls1 harness. so you hook up the big hot wire on the ls1 harness and then hook up the 2 red/white wires to the battery and you got everything but wind sheild wipers. and the few other things you must hook to the ls1 harness like fuel pump, reverse light etc... it really isnt hard at all and i have never wired up nothing but radios and little stuff before.

not sure if your askin if you need the ls1 engine harness but if thats your question yes you do. you dont need the ka enigne harness.

fouz

11-13-2006, 07:53 PM

chin180. im sure you hooked up the vaccum line to your brake booster? thats the only vaccum line i had to hook up. mine is a 2002 set thou. not sure what yours is.

Chin180sx

11-13-2006, 09:41 PM

Yeah, no it was a joke. The MS4 is why my car sounds so well...yeah

mikespeed95

11-13-2006, 10:03 PM

Yes, I am serious. It greatly reduces wiring

if your worried about the PLUGGING IN OF THE STOCK ENGINE HARNESS to a point where youd consider spending money to backdate and downgrade your ls1 to a carburated setup, ill be blunt and honest, and tell you thats near the dumbest thing ive ever heard in relation to a ls13/4 swap. youll still have the same guage and other wiring, and installing some sort of PCM for the ignition. but you complicated everythign by adding a carburator. that is stupid.

and the manifold is very simple to install.

not as easy as plugging in the stock ls1 wiring harness...

Both have been proven to make approximately the same amount of power, and the carbs actually deliver smoother throttle response. The FI can be a little twitchy sometimes when tuned with high overlap cams.

if you want to beleive that great. your more than welcome to waste your own time and money, and be known as the idiot who did a ls1 swap with a carburator.

You did not give a good reason to stay with FI.

lets see.

its stock.

it comes with a ls1.

its reliable.

its practical.

its free with a ls1.

wait, all those things suck. spend more money to have something much less practical and reliable and much more time consuming than the stock stuff for no real life gains.

Plus carbs can be tuned in a second. Wiring will be greatly reduced as well as installation and rebuild time.

dude its a stock fucking harness. theres like <10 things you have to plug in to stay fuel injected, is it really that fucking hard? its a STOCK harness you PLUG IN. NOT DIFFICULT. rebuild time? fuel injection doesnt have rebuild time, its not a damn carburator.

Plus anybody can tune a carb. You don't need fancy equipment. Joe Bob and his redneck brother Billy Bob at the gas station down the street can fix my engine easily :naughty:

how much is the carb setup from GM? im pretty damn sure it costs more than a dyno tune with ls1edit or something similar. and guess what, even if you do carb the ls1, all your tuning with a carb is FUEL. theres this thing called timing as well, and since there is no distributor on a ls1 you need to go into the computer. or you can be on the same level of stupidity as you are wanting to go carbed, and go with opti-spark. its about on par with the badass level of a carburator.

But seriously, I'm having enough issues with the rest of the car. I am not looking for more complexity with the engine. I'm sick of the SR right now and I want to ditch the turbo.

you say you have enough issues but want to add a carburator, which is just onemore thing to break. awesome. moron.

mikespeed95

11-13-2006, 10:06 PM

only part im confused about is say my 240 is auto (which it is :( ) what from a normal 240sx 5-speed conversion would i need? and what from a ls1 would i need? also, has anyone posted more in depth about the wiring? or who else can do it?i just don't see any info on the wiring, and id rather not attempt it with out any "guidelines"

you will need the following things from a 240sx

clutch pedal assembly.

you will need the following from a camaro/firebird motorset (Easy way)

t56
slave cylinder
wilwood 3/4'' master cylinder 5.5'' length or shorter
2.25'' to 2.5 inch adapter plate for the clutch master
t56 slave -> wilwood clutch line

IIRC thats it but its been a while.

mikespeed95

11-13-2006, 10:12 PM

Here are some good sites that deal with the wiring:

Probably one of the best sites explaining the wiring. I was thinking about getting HSC to just do the wiring for me cause I really don't want to rewire the engine harness after already spending hours rewiring the chassis. But that site is pretty good so I might just save the $400 for something else...

from my and other peoples experience, they still havent figured out the wiring.

i just mounted the ls1 pcm in the car and put power to it. ill just be going with aftermarket guages as well.

blu808

11-14-2006, 01:06 AM

g6civcx

11-16-2006, 05:50 AM

moron.

You need to chill out. I already said I will try both setups and make an objective evaluation of what is better. So far all you have done is provide anecdotal evidence of what you think should be better. The world is what it is, not what you think it should be.

Don't even try to school me when it comes to embedded automotive control systems. I will run circles around most people here.

I was joking around. You need to stop calling everybody stupid just because you don't understand where they're coming from. Does it make you feel good to call other people stupid? Do you have any credibility other than what you post here?

ledzeppelin240

11-16-2006, 04:51 PM

Yeah, people take some stuff a little too personal. It is his car and he will ultimately do whatever he wants to it. Give your opinion on it but you probably don’t have to rip into him.

I will always be a FI guy myself because I feel it has way more pros...

MURPHY

11-16-2006, 05:15 PM

just an fyi. new forum for 240's with v8's. link is in my signature.

p.s. idk if im not allowed to do that, just trying to help people out

mikespeed95

11-17-2006, 11:15 AM

You need to chill out. I already said I will try both setups and make an objective evaluation of what is better. So far all you have done is provide anecdotal evidence of what you think should be better. The world is what it is, not what you think it should be.

Don't even try to school me when it comes to embedded automotive control systems. I will run circles around most people here.

I was joking around. You need to stop calling everybody stupid just because you don't understand where they're coming from. Does it make you feel good to call other people stupid? Do you have any credibility other than what you post here?

how about me an some freinds built a huge shitbox ls1 240 that was the 1st ls1 s13 in the world as far as i know?

go run your circles, i think you are stupid for putting a carburator that i know will make your setup more difficult with no real life gains. but if youd like to be blind, then go for it. it will give me something to laugh at.

MURPHY

11-17-2006, 01:18 PM

bro let the man do what he wants, atleast he's trying new things. even if you dont think its the smartest idea, its not your place to tell him what to do.

g6civc when you think your gonna be doing it? you should lemme know whats up or make it to some the lookout events with it. and lemme get a feel for it :)

sil80forme

01-26-2007, 02:20 PM

does anyone have any info on the titan swap in a 240sx.. i've searched and searched but came up with nuthin. i like the q45 swap but i am very interested in the titan motor

sil80forme

02-12-2007, 11:12 PM

wooohooo thank god someone is finally makin this swap possible.... 302 is so much cheaper and easiar to find then an ls1. lets just hope the kit doesnt cost as much as the ls1 kits.....

shinrekka

02-13-2007, 07:58 AM

Nah when i talked to them they said they are making it affordable. Alot of people dont want to spend the amount of money an LS1 swap is going to cost all at once. Even myself, i'd rather spend more money over an extended period of time then all at once. Even then i'd be happy with a stock 302, it would be alot of fun in a s13. Fox body mustang chassis are so shitty, its a struggle to go around corners and in a straight line. Thats why i dont own one anymore, the motor was great, the car wasnt. Autornd is working on the wiring right now.

sil80forme

02-13-2007, 05:31 PM

ha ha i dont need any wiring... i got a built carburated 302.... install and drive off i cant wait..anyone know if they will be doin what the ls1 guys are doin and modifing the crossmember? wish they wouls hurry up!

s13gold

02-13-2007, 05:36 PM

cool info...i wish i had a z to begin with.

g6civcx

02-25-2007, 04:38 AM

only part im confused about is say my 240 is auto (which it is :( ) what from a normal 240sx 5-speed conversion would i need? and what from a ls1 would i need? also, has anyone posted more in depth about the wiring? or who else can do it?i just don't see any info on the wiring, and id rather not attempt it with out any "guidelines"

Hinson can do the swap for you. You can use an S13/14 clutch pedal assembly or any assembly you can fit. Hinson carries a clutch master cylinder fabricated to the Nissan unit, or I'm sure they can fabricate anything you want.

As far as other differences go, the wiring will get redone any way and there is very few things you carry over from the Nissan harness. Hell, you can even swap in an auto LSx :)

SR240DET

03-04-2007, 11:45 PM

Gumballf355

03-10-2007, 10:40 PM

http://www.dropshots.com/photos/149/20010820/005847.jpg
I've been lovin LS1s since 01. V8s are just so much fun.

mmdb

03-10-2007, 11:23 PM

I'm currently having an LS1 installed into my s14. The LS1 is out of a 2000 camaro ss. There's some good info on my thread at ls1tech.com, and there's more info if you search that site concerning the site. You can find info http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=647338&page=1&pp=20 If you were like me, hitting your head against the wall to choose which motor (SR, RB, LS1, 2JZ, 1JZ), the LS1 is very promising as far as performance and maintenance goes. Downside is that the initial cost isn't cheap.

kansas240

03-15-2007, 10:51 AM

can anybody find a service manual that is similar to the nissan FSM for the LSX? i cant even figure out the right name to even search for one. If anybody can find one or point me in the right direction that would be great

the ls1 and ls2 are not like previous small blocks, or like the ones in the trucks, but they are similar. You'll need either gto, t/a, vette or camaro ss books to apply to the many versions that have come out in the last few years.
http://www.cheersandgears.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15879&pid=258318&st=0&#entry258318

datboibrad

03-15-2007, 03:47 PM

where is the s14 love? hehe =]

my mouting situation is the opposite of the s13 tho causing my motor to sit farther back iirc, but i clear everything very well.

for the record. ls6 intake clears s14 hood with room. strut bar also clears by a mile.
firewall clearance is nice.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/DSC03944-1.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/DCFN0005-2.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/DCFN0004-2.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/DSC03949-1.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/P1010195-1.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/DSC03949.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/datboibrad/P1010061.jpg

staygold24

03-15-2007, 09:15 PM

I think Ive been following your buildup on ls1tech.

I got some s14 love.

datboibrad

03-15-2007, 10:02 PM

I think Ive been following your buildup on ls1tech.

I got some s14 love.
sigh my poor car. cant wait for my rings to come in so i can get this shit over with.

g6civcx

04-01-2007, 07:02 AM

FYI, carbs run on 7 PSI of fuel pressure, max. You have to modify your FI fuel system to regulate the pressure down.

I went with a fuel cell and low-pressure pump.

harleys

04-14-2007, 08:10 PM

is it possible to do the ls1 swap for 5k?

cnichols

04-22-2007, 10:55 PM

is it possible to do the ls1 swap for 5k?

I think so. It will all depend on how cheap you get your motorset for and if you can fab the mounts (engine and tranny) yourself. It will definitely be a stretch, but if you have patience and skill...it might be possible. BUT...I don't recommend cutting corners...EVER.

I spent roughly $7500 and didn't really skimp...

http://www.streetelite.net/pics/570/DSC02118.JPG

http://www.streetelite.net/pics/570/DSC02120.JPG

datboibrad

04-23-2007, 11:06 AM

poo on you chris.

cnichols

04-23-2007, 12:41 PM

Bring it R. Kelly. :fawkd:

Oh, and to the guy wanting to convert to carbs....seriously....go buy a Painless Perfect standalone that is already tuned for a stock LS1 and give it power. That was all I did. There's really no hard part of the swap once you know how to solve the problem. The clutch and mounts are harder than the wiring and they weren't all that hard.

ReLevent1

04-23-2007, 04:01 PM

cnichols

04-23-2007, 04:12 PM

So is there any progress with getting the Swap CA Smog Legal? I've read through the whole thread and not much talk about making it legal. Just read a bunch of Weight Vs. Weight or Ford Vs. Chevy arguement.

LS1? Don't see why it wouldn't pass with OEM headers (from Corvette or otherwise), keeping all original emissions equipment, and a cat or two. But, I am by no means an expert on that. I just know that it should be legal if it's the same year or newer motor (as the car), was released in a car in the U.S., and still has all it's emissions crap.

datboibrad

04-24-2007, 10:35 PM

um passenger header (stock one) clear my car fine. driver is directed right at the damn steering u joint. im sure you could toss some cats on the exhaust and call it a day tho.

hek1620

05-01-2007, 08:09 AM

i love the ls1 just like everyone. but how come no one uses lt1's, for a more cost efficient swap? maybe because it's an iron block? but i say fuck it.

cnichols

05-06-2007, 03:32 PM

i love the ls1 just like everyone. but how come no one uses lt1's, for a more cost efficient swap? maybe because it's an iron block? but i say fuck it.

Older technology, not as much power, not as good looking, and heavier. That's my guess.

.chris.

05-24-2007, 07:10 PM

I'm doing a carbed SBC swap. Going to be far cheaper than an LS1 build. 4-bolt main, forged crank, h-beam rods, forged flat top pistons, patriot alum. heads, Holly 750. Using a T5 transmission.

If I want, I can go Blow Through Turbo, EFI Turbo or just Nitrous the shit out of it.

shinrekka

05-29-2007, 10:03 PM

bullitt4110

06-13-2007, 05:46 PM

Any updates on getting a kit that is CARB apporved?

2 black lines

06-20-2007, 01:57 AM

Hi there, as you can see this is my first post, and I'm not sure if you allow links to other forums, but I had a look to see and couldn't see a no... so here's a link to what I've been working on.

A bit of background - this is my first non-uk V8, and as such its trial and error, its also my first blown engine, and also the first in the UK to do an S13, yes your eyes are right - United Kingdom! Also I've never been brought up around V8's so this is a steep learning curve, lol.

But you can see its taken a while.....

(Mods Hope you don't mind me putting on the back of this thread, or does it need to go on its own??)

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=69908

Sideways_In_SD

06-21-2007, 04:27 PM

Any updates on getting a kit that is CARB apporved?

In my dreams I'm doing this swap in a CARB'ed fashion. I've already spoke to the operator at our local referee/B.A.R. Requirements for CARB are these:

Engine must come from the same year or newer car

Engine must retain all factory smog/monitoring equipt. i.e.: MAF's, CAT's, EGR, ECU, OBD, etc.

Pass normal emissions/sniffer test

Since my car is a 96 I have to pony up to an OBDII swap, meaning that the stock ECU must be retained,and when hooked up to OBDII shows normal operation and no trouble codes.

**LEGITIMATE QUESTION ALERT!!!**

Will deleting the Anti-theft codes from the OBDII LSx ECU's cause a trouble code?? I know certain eGay vendors offer this service, but I wasn't sure if they would effect OBDII. In my mind, I think not, but I'd like confirmation on this.

Thanks

puravida

06-22-2007, 01:18 PM

I was debating on going from the 350 in the rx to the LQ4 set up, my reality is I like these coupes more. Love to see more from that 302 option, and I'm also interested in that titan swap too. ...no no no need to save for a house. There was a 5 wire drive system you could technically run this car off of. I need to find the link but if your going to use after market gauges why fight it.

.chris.

07-13-2007, 05:10 PM

I'd like to do a SBC swap, i have a 350/300hp and a turbo350 tranny with 75k on them. Any clue on what your going to do for mounts?

I recall there is a mount kit to put a chevy 4.3 v6 into the nissan hardbody. The 4.3 uses the same mounts as the 350 so i think that would be a good start. After all the hardbody truck and 240sx use the same mounts. I dont know if the crossmember would need to be modified or not, but most likely.

I would be more inclined to modify the oil pan.

You'll need a low rise intake mani though.

Mine should be finished in a few weeks. I will post some pics.

Total spent on drivetrain will be about 4500cdn. It should be over 400hp pretty easy.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention - Mounts will be stock Chevy Mounts mounted in convenient locations. I will not be the one doing the engine swap, but supposedly it's not terribly difficult to fix these to the frame/crossmember. They're cheap too.

shinrekka

07-13-2007, 07:14 PM

Anybody hear anything about the 302 swap latly? I got a motor and I got a 240, i just need mounts

g6civcx

07-16-2007, 07:43 PM

This is my setup as it currently stands. If you're going to comment about carbs, my setup is equivalent to an LT-series in terms of mounting points and dimensions. Most of the info I post here are applicable to older gen-I 350 and EFI LT1/4. LSx blocks use different mounts. I used carbs for cost and availability of parts.

JEGS 809-10067353K1: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_752506_-1_10763
Borg-Warner T-5 gearbox (used in 3rd and 4th gen F-body)
ATL fuel cell

Fabrication of the subframe is necessary, but the motor sits fine. Driveline angle is correct and it has good clearance between the strut towers. The locations of the accessories have not been finalized yet though.

I have hood clearance issues due to the carbs, but if you're going with an LT block hood clearance should not be an issue.

Notching of the firewall was not necessary, but doing so allows a clutch R&R without lifting the motor.

I'm hoping the car will be finished by the end of the summer. Anybody local is welcome to meet up and check out my setup in person. I'm trying to convince the shop to release a bolt-in kit for gen-I/LT-series and LSx for much less than the cost of the Hinson kit (Hinson didn't even have a kit for my setup).

stewie8apie

07-18-2007, 11:34 PM

What are people using for mounts other than HSC's? I know that there are alternative solutions which would be much more cost effective.

Also, has anyone tried HSC's master cylinder? Also, their fuel system seems pretty decent. Anyone try that yet?

victorw210

07-29-2007, 11:01 PM

do these mounts work with the lt1

g6civcx

08-10-2007, 05:34 AM

What are people using for mounts other than HSC's? I know that there are alternative solutions which would be much more cost effective.

So far they are the only people I've seen who has put together a kit for the LSx into S-chassis. The rest are just custom mounts.

do these mounts work with the lt1

Most of the info I post here are applicable to older gen-I 350 and EFI LT1/4. LSx blocks use different mounts

Does this answer your question? I am not sure which mounts you are referring to, but generally anything that will fit an LSx will not fit an LTx.

BAY240

08-10-2007, 12:16 PM

i ono if this was already asked but can the stock rear end take all this torque?

NismoSilvia270R

08-11-2007, 06:28 PM

xatracing makes a nice mount kit. "mikespeed" and "chin" now run them. chin makes them.
problem is, that the oil pan needs a skid plate cause it sits so low, its below the kmember

chins:
http://www.ziptied.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8093&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15&sid=515ccb83676386eab5c2cc98ed716215
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564082

mikespeed
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=705272

mikespeed runs a blower on his and drifts it. i think the rear can take it.

Iceman00

08-19-2007, 12:28 AM

I have heard number of 32-34mpg. It will definatly get some decent milage though as long as its not WOT. Shoot me some sites or info on the universal stuff you find. HSC has as nice fuel setup so you could get ideas from that and go from there.

Iceman00 I figure after looking around some that the LS1 is going to weigh about 596lbs. so that is the same as the KA??? But when you get the figures I am interested because I was close minded before.

The KA/Trans combo is good for under 500lbs. The LSx/trans combo is around 630lbs. You'll be looking at a good 150lb or so increase. See links earlier in thread.

ms!3

08-25-2007, 05:39 PM

yea i know efi is better :blah: but how many of you have carbed 350s or 302s or anyt other small block v8? im not shooting for high numbers. i want just want easy n/a power. i was thinking a carbed lt1 with basic bolt ons (cams, carb, header, ect) id be pretty happy with that setup.

Lordrandall

08-28-2007, 01:01 AM

The KA/Trans combo is good for under 500lbs. The LSx/trans combo is around 630lbs. You'll be looking at a good 150lb or so increase.

I don't know where you got those numbers, but every other place I look puts the LSx/6-speed combo lighter than the KA/5-speed.

LS lighter than KA
6 heavier than 5

Combo LS/6 lighter than KA/5

Iceman00

08-28-2007, 05:30 PM

I don't know where you got those numbers, but every other place I look puts the LSx/6-speed combo lighter than the KA/5-speed.

LS lighter than KA
6 heavier than 5

Combo LS/6 lighter than KA/5
Your sources are wrong.

*laughs*

The KA motor and Transmission combo Don't weigh 600lbs, and the LSX motor and tranny don't wiegh Sub 500lbs.

GM list the LS6 motor with a manual Flywheel at around 496lbs, and Corvettes has the transmission mounted SPERATE from the Motor. A T56 trans will weigh in over 130lbs.

Transmission
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2930
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0405_tough_t56_transmission/
Engine:
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/z06/ls1ls6.html
(notice it says NOTHING about transmission)
My Sources, were are yours?

doc99

08-28-2007, 05:47 PM

The KA/Trans combo is good for under 500lbs. The LSx/trans combo is around 630lbs. You'll be looking at a good 150lb or so increase.

I think those numbers a little inflated but I do agree the LSx/T56 weighs more then a KA/Trans combo. Regardless of that fact, how much weight does a turbo and all it's supporting accessories weigh? I'd say that brings the two motor combos around the same weight. Now lets bring into the fact a turbo KA is probably not as reliable as a stock V8 pushing the same power. With that said, the LSx swap is a damn good route for anyone with the cash.

*EDIT

Found this:

http://www.engineswaptech.com/photos/vq35de_s14/images/2119/original.aspx

Iceman00

08-28-2007, 09:18 PM

I think those numbers a little inflated but I do agree the LSx/T56 weighs more then a KA/Trans combo. Regardless of that fact, how much weight does a turbo and all it's supporting accessories weigh? I'd say that brings the two motor combos around the same weight. Now lets bring into the fact a turbo KA is probably not as reliable as a stock V8 pushing the same power. With that said, the LSx swap is a damn good route for anyone with the cash.

*EDIT

Found this:

http://www.engineswaptech.com/photos/vq35de_s14/images/2119/original.aspx

Clutch is included in those wieghts. Its 40lbs. Check back in this thread a couple pages for confirmation

SexPanda

08-28-2007, 09:24 PM

You can get rid of a lot of the weight a v8 adds to your front by getting lightweight body parts (carbon fibre hood, fiberglass fenders, you know that kind of stuff stuff) relocating your battery, getting rid of some superfluous accessories like AC and PS, and what not. Get creative with it... Im assuming that a v8 240sx would be more of a strip car or soemthing like that than anything because of the engine, so you wouldnt really need that stuff.

But really, alot of the weight added is at the tranny, which is located near the center and bottom of the car, so that shouldnt affect the weight distribution too much.

Id say if you do that kind of stuff, the weight up front actually affecting the weight distribution of your car wouldnt be too bad, which can easily be offset a little by having a full tank of gas lol.

Lordrandall

08-29-2007, 12:30 AM

Your sources are wrong.

Well, this is from Hinson, but I've seen it other places as well:

"The aluminum GM LS1 and LS6 engines are extremely light power plants. With the complete removal of the KA engine and transmission, the project car's final weight is less than the total gross vehicle weight of a stock Nissan 240SX. The LS1 T56 combo is 128 pounds lighter than the KA four cylinder it replaces."

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/faqS14.htm

Iceman00

08-29-2007, 01:42 PM

Its wrong wrong wrong.

doc99

08-29-2007, 01:53 PM

I believe Hinson used an automatic transmission (among other things) to come up with the added weight of the KA.

Coming from someone who's collecting parts for the LS1 swap I can honestly say I know the KA is lighter than the LS1.

WISH ONE

08-29-2007, 02:33 PM

about how much would a shop charge you for this kind of swap.

SexPanda

08-29-2007, 02:36 PM

about how much would a shop charge you for this kind of swap.
Way too much. Just the custom fabrication, custom mounts, custome driveshaft, wiring, et cetera, et cetera... ITs alot of work.

I'd say at least 3 grand.

doc99

08-29-2007, 02:45 PM

If you're handy with a welder (among other tools), or have friends that are, and do plenty of research it can be done within a budget.

As for having a shop do it. Pretty expensive.

WISH ONE

08-29-2007, 05:13 PM

ya i figured... although 3 grand doesnt sound that bad... i can get my hands on a vette ls1 for dirt cheap through some of the old hotrod guys at my work. but the fab is what would kill me. and i dont own a welder but i think i will soon, maybe some welding classes also, to PERFECT the TECHNIQUE hahah.... its handy to have. it would be nice to have a shop do it but im sure it would be somewhere like 20 hours of labor or so if not more.. and at 80 an hour or so for labor it would get pricey not to mention other parts you would need.

THANKS GUYS

Shadytrixta1

08-30-2007, 10:21 PM

XAT's swap package starts around 10g's I believe...

93240

08-31-2007, 12:39 PM

XAT's swap package starts around 10g's I believe...

http://www.xatracing.com/ls1.htm

I was looking at doing it myself but the damn H.O.A. is on my back!

doc99

08-31-2007, 12:50 PM

I just priced it up. From my (generous) estimates they're charging about $4000 for labor.

WISH ONE

08-31-2007, 01:03 PM

lol.... damn...

gigimow

08-31-2007, 08:07 PM

i can get my hands on a vette ls1 for dirt cheap through some of the old hotrod guys at my work.
THANKS GUYS

What's the price range when you say it's dirt cheap?

blknismo180

09-13-2007, 08:22 PM

sorry to bring this back up...but i want to know has a 95-04 mustang motor been put into a 240 haven't found 1 yet......
i'd like to see if it was done...
i have heard it was wide and might be done...
i'm sure someone has the money to do it...
:blah::blah::blah:

doc99

09-14-2007, 12:22 PM

I know of a couple ford 302s put into S13/S14s.

ranger240

09-14-2007, 12:31 PM

people on this forum have said the dohc ford 4.6 or whatever is too wide to make it in the engine bay without a signifigant amount of work..

blknismo180

09-15-2007, 02:44 PM

but has anyone done it.....
i heard the same as teh V8 titan motor is quiet a bit of work....
but iv'e seen it...
does anyone have the 4.6 in there 240?

.chris.

09-15-2007, 10:18 PM

I really don't understand all this discussion about overhead cam V8's. A lot of them are as wide as big blocks and that's not an ideal situation with our cars.

Cam in block motors (SBF, SBC, LS1 etc.) are physically smaller, usually lighter, and can make as much power as these other engines.

I am doing a SBC V8 240. It will have a custom engine set up. Nothing too fancy, but reliable and powerful. It will be carb fed as well.

heartcooksmouse

09-21-2007, 12:04 AM

All you have to do for the guages is hook up the tach lead off the ls1 harness with the voltage converter, and run the ka temp sensor sender and hard wire it to the stock temp guage.

Also the wiring is hella easy.

gm designed the ls1 wiring harness as almost stand alone. its just

constant power (memory)
Switchable power (ecu power)
Ground (duh)
ignition tumbler (just tap off the lead from your ls1 harness to the switchable on the tumbler)

Woot.

so if its that easy whats the labor cost/wiring cost for this?
same as sr price? for me i got that for 350. if its easier than would it be like what... 250... 300?
has the price for the kit been lowered?
last i checked today on this site was 1225 or sometihng from you. that still the price even if you get corvette mounts already?

Mikey213

10-25-2007, 10:15 AM

anyone tried the vh45de? aluminum v8 to...

viperbite

10-29-2007, 09:41 AM

anyone tried the vh45de? aluminum v8 to...

google
its been done

chitosdr

11-04-2007, 03:41 PM

Made my first run with the LS1 last night and I'm pretty happy with it. 12.77 @111.49. This was at MIR, only got to do 3 runs and I was running 225/45/18s on the rear open stock diff and full interior. Weighed the car with full interior, full stereo, full tank, tools, spare tire, 3200 with me in the car (185). Like I said, I'm pretty happy, I was able to run with some moddified Saleens and I got to chase a new Z06 and a Porshe GT2.

I was spinning through the top of third gear, kind of scary at half track kicking sideways.

nx2kjl

11-24-2007, 11:37 PM

I am currently putting a carb'd 350 into my S13 with a TH350 transmission. Has anyone done this? I really would like some tips on mount placement, and setting the drive angle (pinion angle).

I really wish I could afford an LS1, but making my house payment is more important. However, I do have a welder, access to steel, and a lot of time.

Anyways, any tips would be appreciated. Ill be helping a friend with his ls1 swap soon , so maybe that experience will help my project.

g6civcx

11-25-2007, 08:07 AM

nx2kjl

11-25-2007, 09:08 AM

qwarnon

11-25-2007, 02:13 PM

could some one possibly post up some wiring diagrams or details on wiring for EFI and TBI 350s into 240sx?

also g6civcx how much are we talking for these mounts?

g6civcx

11-25-2007, 02:30 PM

g6civcx

11-25-2007, 02:33 PM

........................

nx2kjl

11-25-2007, 04:37 PM

WTF is the big secret? I thought we all joined boards like this to learn\share info. THIS is what is holding my swap back, im taking detailed notes, measurements, pictures, etc... to share with everybody. I'm not holding anything back. Why cant others be the same way?

g6civcx

11-25-2007, 06:53 PM

.....................

nx2kjl

11-26-2007, 02:00 PM

Thats what pm's are for.

mmdb

12-10-2007, 10:01 PM

Actually if you would post or pm me pictures of your mount set-up, I wanted to make my own. And maybe a description of where you are mounting them, etc... I would really appreciate it. I have almost everything I need, now Im just stumped on the mounting process.

There's a few mounting setups that you can do. Basically it's a give or take setup due to the transmission rear hump coming into contact with the firewall / transmission tunnel. Here's the options that I've come across in my swap as well as others.
1. Modify transmission tunnel to clear frontal hump on the transmission.
This is usually done by bashing the transmission tunnel to give it enough
clearance to fit.

2. Put a 3/4" spacer between the x-member and the chassis to give the transmission enough clearance.

I chose #2 because it was a much cleaner install. You will need pillow end links to compensate for the suspension drop.

As for engine mounting setups You can check out my thread here...

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=647338&highlight=mmdb

I used a rb20det x-member from a skyline gts r32. Reason being the pods that support the engine come up directly to the engine. This helps with ease of install. If you plan on using the existing x-member you can do a search on LS1tech.com and you'll find a few people (daftpunk being one that comes to mind) that have used this approach.

As for the transmission mount I used a bushing made by Energy suspension and a custom fabricated brace that used the stock mounting points. This again made for a clean install.

There's more than one way to approach this install. Some are easier than others. As far as wiring goes you'll need to make sure the fuel pump is running when given ignition and also the ignition wires need to be powered up. That's basically it. Also, don't forget to get the VAS (vehicle antilock system ) disabled. Otherwise it won't let you start the car.

Good luck. PM me if you have any other questions.

mmdb

12-10-2007, 10:04 PM

Also, if I used my stock gas tank, walbro 255 pump, and utilize the return line to the gas tank, with a fuel regulator set around 7 psi, would this fuel set-up work without burning up the pump?

Why are you using a FPR? You can pick one up from a corvette and use that. That's what I'm using. No need for anything fancy unless you plan on tuning the thing.

I believe there's more than one version for the 240sx. Make sure it's for the turbo motor or high hp. I think it's 255lph. Also, when there's fuel pressure make sure you get ~65ps.

KansaiDrifter

12-15-2007, 06:52 PM

hey not to thread jack or anything but there's another site that you might find helpful www.silviaV8.com

i have pix of my ls13 on there and alot of others do to. just figured i'd throw that out there.

silvia302

12-15-2007, 09:12 PM

i did the 302 v8 swap in my 240 sx s14. it was really time consuming and yes hard. alot of fabricated parts. alot alot of time. mounts were a problem i had to make them out of another one off ebay. (mustang wearhouse) the oil pan i used a 351w and it fit great. driveshaft i had custom made by fleetpride for 200.00. wiring was actually pretty easy when u got a master tech as a friend ;).. but i will post pics soon. its in flat satin black as of now and currently up for sale for 8k. my painter bailed on me due to problems he was having with the fam so i may just sell it if flat satin..it looks mean...anyone need any info your more then welcome to pm me if need be, or if your interested in the 302 torque monster, pm me also... ciao

g6civcx

12-23-2007, 01:35 PM

A peek at mine. Clears the hood just fine even with the air cleaner.

Chevy 350 GenI, carb, Borg Warner T5, HEI, mechanical fuel pump, block hugger headers, custom Y-pipe to meet stock cat, BMC is reused, clutch master is reused, custom brake lines from BMC to caliper, taka clutch line, custom rear sump oil pan cut and rewelded to clear subframe, steering rack is reused, custom hi and lo pressure steering lines, jones racing serpentine kit which comes with alt, steering pump, idler pulley, water pump bracket, oil filter relocation kit.

The motor clears the SR koyo and FAL by a good 10". The firewall is moved back a good 6".

If anybody has any specific question about this setup PM me. Please do not ask about mounts, for now.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7228/enginelp4.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/4576/firewallib4.jpg

Neejay

12-24-2007, 11:13 AM

A peek at mine. Clears the hood just fine even with the air cleaner.

Chevy 350 GenI, carb, Borg Warner T5, HEI, mechanical fuel pump, block hugger headers, custom Y-pipe to meet stock cat, BMC is reused, clutch master is reused, custom brake lines from BMC to caliper, taka clutch line, custom rear sump oil pan cut and rewelded to clear subframe, steering rack is reused, custom hi and lo pressure steering lines, jones racing serpentine kit which comes with alt, steering pump, idler pulley, water pump bracket, oil filter relocation kit.

The motor clears the SR koyo and FAL by a good 10". The firewall is moved back a good 6".

If anybody has any specific question about this setup PM me. Please do not ask about mounts, for now.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7228/enginelp4.jpg[/img]
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/4576/firewallib4.jpg[/img]
Holy shit, good job man. Is it running yet? If so, any vids?

5.6inmyS14

12-27-2007, 08:25 PM

luke the duke, what up foo, good to see your work online.

holla its kutty

blu808

01-26-2008, 09:07 PM

Haha. Whats up?

Post some pics of your swap.

Also if anyone has any v8 swap questions feel free to pm me.

Sir

01-27-2008, 12:21 AM

what headers will work with LS2 (GTO) in S14?
I know they need to be modified, and everyone says longtubes are best. I just need to figure out what I can order so I don't have to have him make it from scratch.

blu808

01-27-2008, 12:26 AM

www.hinsonsupercars.com makes bolt in long tube headers. They are full tig welded, and stainless. Give brain a call, he is a nice guy and can help you with your swap.

fyi. ls1/ls2 headers are the same.

Risu2112

01-27-2008, 01:27 AM

Hello sirs, working on my S13 (hatchback) + LS1 swap, everything is pretty much planned out except for the frame, what exactly do you guys recommend I do/have done to keep my frame from getting bent out of shape? Going fast is fun and all but I certainly want to still be able to close my door! haha. Aiming for around 400 hp out of the LS1..
Read through here but didn't find to much info on that other than something needs to be done :)

Thanks! :D

Sir

01-28-2008, 12:08 PM

Thanks Luke, but paying $800+ for a set of headers is crazy to me when I got access to someone who can modify a set.

Risu - most of the cars I've seen have had been stitch welded and/or caged, but I've never seen anyone say its needed.
Unless you're referring to the modification for lower cross member, which is needed to clear the oil pan.

g6civcx

01-28-2008, 07:41 PM

Unless you're referring to the modification for lower cross member, which is needed to clear the oil pan.

You can either mod the subframe or the oil pan. There are pros and cons to both approaches.

I chose to keep the subframe and mod the oil pan.

blu808

01-28-2008, 07:47 PM

Your frame should be fine. Dont worry about twisting the frame unless you are running huge slicks and like 600 whp.

You can stiffen it up by seam welding and caging the car though if you want.

Hello sirs, working on my S13 (hatchback) + LS1 swap, everything is pretty much planned out except for the frame, what exactly do you guys recommend I do/have done to keep my frame from getting bent out of shape? Going fast is fun and all but I certainly want to still be able to close my door! haha. Aiming for around 400 hp out of the LS1..
Read through here but didn't find to much info on that other than something needs to be done :)

Thanks! :D

g6civcx

01-28-2008, 07:49 PM

Your frame should be fine.

I don't know if anyone can say that without seeing the car. There are cars with frames so rusty that they're not safe for any motor.

blu808

01-28-2008, 07:52 PM

Well considering he is from northern cali im sure the frame has minimal rust. We dont have rust problems out here for the most part.

Risu2112

01-30-2008, 06:49 PM

Well considering he is from northern cali im sure the frame has minimal rust. We dont have rust problems out here for the most part.

Yeah I'm rust free, I'll be taking it easy on the frame for now since it's only going up to 400ish HP and using street tires.

Next question: Any reason I shouldn't use a used Q45 rear end for now? Need a budget oriented solution for the rear just for now, I'm not willing to drive around on an open diff. Think the axle on the Q45 can handle the power?

blu808

01-30-2008, 07:44 PM

I would just run one of my diffs.

Your axles should be fine if you dont drive like a retard considering this is street use and on street size tires.

Sir

01-31-2008, 09:20 AM

Risu2112

01-31-2008, 11:37 AM

Why Q45?
If you're doing it for the axels, stock will hold up the power, just your tires are be going up in smoke.
With that said, Q45 offers VLSD and taller final gear, so its got a very good bang for the buck for T56's double overdrive

Yeah haha, 255 tires with a 4.08 open diff just isn't going to work, Q45's vlsd 3.538 at least gives me a chance to grab the ground.

Sir

01-31-2008, 12:13 PM

but there is always R&P from Frontier circa 05 IIRC.
Thats the plan with my setup

chitosdr

02-01-2008, 11:31 AM

I am running stock open diff with my setup right now. I am using 245/40/18 nitto neo gen on the rear, and it really isn't that bad. I was able to lay down a 1.86 60ft with this set up on my stock ls1/t56 s14. I plan on upgrading to the j30 vsld with the 3.90 for a little more use out of 4th gear in the 1/4 mile though...right now I am at the top of 4th at 111-113 trap speed.

Risu2112

02-05-2008, 07:50 PM

chitosdr

02-07-2008, 08:29 PM

Yay! another question,

Again with my S13 hatchback LS1 swap, Regarding the exhaust, I will be attempting to certify and legalize the swap for CA smog law, this means I will be starting with the factory headers & cats, after the cats though I'm trying to figure out what my best option will be, Have the pipes "Y" together and exit single muffler with say 3" piping out the driver side? is that going to be enough diameter considering the pipe is coming together? Or should I Have the pipes " Y " together then " Y " back apart to dual exhaust? For smog reasons the pipes need to come together after the cats, they can split up again after that though.

Long story short, does any one have any piping configuration or diameter recommendations? Also how much clearance do I stand to lose if I run a pipe out the passenger side too? If I go dual exhaust it sure will look cool, but will it actually help with the flow at all? Keep in mind, my flow is going to be at least for now seriously restricted by the factory headers..

thanks! >.>

I'm still using the factory headers into a single 3" Y-pipe into a single 3" high flow cat and single 3" cat back exhaust. I do want headers eventually, but I am happy with the current power output with this setup. True duals will flow better, but the extra cost for the 15-25 hp is just not worth it to me right now. You could try doing a mild port job on the manifolds, just do a gasket port match. Anyways, good luck with the smog.

Sir

02-08-2008, 09:39 AM

can't you do just and xpipe instead????

Since I'm not in cali, and could care less about smog, thats what I'm doing.

g6civcx

02-11-2008, 03:45 PM

Yay! another question,

Again with my S13 hatchback LS1 swap, Regarding the exhaust, I will be attempting to certify and legalize the swap for CA smog law, this means I will be starting with the factory headers & cats, after the cats though I'm trying to figure out what my best option will be, Have the pipes "Y" together and exit single muffler with say 3" piping out the driver side? is that going to be enough diameter considering the pipe is coming together? Or should I Have the pipes " Y " together then " Y " back apart to dual exhaust? For smog reasons the pipes need to come together after the cats, they can split up again after that though.

Long story short, does any one have any piping configuration or diameter recommendations? Also how much clearance do I stand to lose if I run a pipe out the passenger side too? If I go dual exhaust it sure will look cool, but will it actually help with the flow at all? Keep in mind, my flow is going to be at least for now seriously restricted by the factory headers..

thanks! >.>

Research SLP's SS package for the Fbody. They offer options of single exhaust or dual exhaust outlet, and quote a ~10 bhp gain with the dual.

I retained the stock S13 catback exhaust design for simplicity, cost, and availability of parts. If I wanted max power I would do a true exhaust with dual cats. If you want to run a dual muffler setup think carefully about how you're going to route it.

Since you're basing it on a Camaro (right?), I understand you're stuck with the cat design. Can you find another LSx platform that has dual cats? I know Fbodies never did, but perhaps a truck setup?

Maybe it's more hassle than it's worth for a few extra bhp. If you're that pressed then just get it cert then run exhaust cutouts.

Risu2112

02-12-2008, 01:50 PM

I might consider X piping 2 3" diameter pipes... I need to get under the car again and do some measurements, I wonder if I can fit them both out the driver side and save some clearance, if not I'm gonna have to go with 2.5's or something and run them out both sides of the car.

Tough call, running them out both sides would be better for acoustics! How about pipe diameter by the way? I'm thinking a single 3" out pipe is not going to be enough, minimum 2x 2.5's. if I have to stick with the single outlet I might have to go crazy with some silly 4 inch pipe or something >.>

Sir

02-12-2008, 11:06 PM

I'm going to be modifying my DualN1 and see how it works

g6civcx

02-15-2008, 06:03 AM

A member asked me questions about my carbureted GM 350 V8 setup. I'm posting the answer here for all to see:

Q: did you move the firewall back because you had to or to make the tranny fit in the location of the stock tranny hole?

A: We moved the firewall back to seat the motor as low and as far back as possible to provide optimal weight distribution. Right now the motor sits further back than an SR/KA normally would. I also had them flare out the firewall so that the gearbox can be accessed without removing the engine assembly. As far as shifter placement goes, T5 shifters are slightly tilted towards the driver so it's offset about 1 inch over and 2 inches back. We had to move the handbrake to clear the shift knob.

Q: 5 speed right? 6? if i remember correctly i think t5's are 5 speed?

A: I used a Borg-Warner T5 from an Fbody. They're not the strongest gearbox on the planet, but I'm not drag racing, and I can always upgrade to a Richmond T5 any time later.

Q: ok driveshaft! custom or did you get somebody to make a custom one at a shop?

A: Driveshaft Shop did the T5 front and stock rear one-piece steel driveshaft. Make sure you measure driveline angle correctly so it's a straight shot to the diff.

Q: whats the difference between the dry sump oil system and then the wet sump, or something like that, i know theres a couple, but off the top of my head all i know is the dry sump, so what all do you have to do to do that (dry sump system) whats all needed, whats the advantages. etc..

A: This question I'm not going to field as others have better inputs. The best I can say is search.

Q: could i use the stock 240 fuel pump and use a fpr, or do i get a special one?

A: You can use the stock electronic pump, but you need an FPR that will regulate fuel pressure down to about 7 PSI for the carb. I run the GM mechanical pump that's mounted on the engine.

Q: does the headers fit past or around the steering shaft?

A: I have block hugger headers, and was able to clear the steering column, but it's a tight fit. You have to remove the steering shaft to remove the driver side header. This part depends on how good your fabrication is.

DarkPhoenix

02-24-2008, 01:04 AM

The SLP kit is only dual out of the muffler. On the F-Bodies it has been proven that you lose power on a true dual setup. Best bet is to do like the F-bodies do. Y-pipe off the headers into either one or two cats, and then into a single outlet pipe. There isn't enough room under the S chassis, in my opinion for a dual. That and nothing is more stealthy than an nice, quiet, single outlet exhaust, and maybe an exhaust cut-out.

g6civcx

02-24-2008, 06:20 AM

The SLP kit is only dual out of the muffler.

This is correct. All 93+ Fbodies came with single cat for cost.

On the F-Bodies it has been proven that you lose power on a true dual setup. Best bet is to do like the F-bodies do. Y-pipe off the headers into either one or two cats, and then into a single outlet pipe.

It really depends on how you tune the engine, but if you're running a close to stock setup I agree with this.

There isn't enough room under the S chassis, in my opinion for a dual. That and nothing is more stealthy than an nice, quiet, single outlet exhaust, and maybe an exhaust cut-out.

I also agree with this. This is is how mine is setup and I'm very happy with it, not to mention the ability to run any S13 catback I choose without using custom catbacks.

Good info. +rep for you.

DarkPhoenix

02-24-2008, 11:31 PM

Good info. +rep for you.

Thanks. I cut my gear-head teeth on F-bodies. I have owned just as many Trans Ams and Formulas, as I have owned Z cars (11 Zs and 12 Fbodies in total). I did an LT1 swap in an S30 I picked up about 10 years ago. And just so you know, the only 4th Gen F Bodies that had a single cat were the OBD1 cars. After that, they had a total of 3 cats. 2 in the Y pipe just past the header, and then one after the Y.

RUTH'LESSDET

02-25-2008, 06:32 PM

s14 in particular how did you get them to fit????

dirtdiggler666

02-25-2008, 06:54 PM

ok guys i got a question

if im going to to use a trans with a cable clutch how can i make this work sense the 240 has a hydro clutch??

blu808

02-25-2008, 07:19 PM

ok guys i got a question

if im going to to use a trans with a cable clutch how can i make this work sense the 240 has a hydro clutch??

Another reason why you shouldn't use a t5.

Its really not that hard though.

Remove your clutch hydro master cyl, and make a cable stop on the fire wall. Then just attach the cable to a lever above the pivot point on the pedal.

Or you can just adapt the t5 to a hydraulic throw out bearing similar to a t56. That would be best but more expensive.

DarkPhoenix

02-25-2008, 09:03 PM

Another reason why you shouldn't use a t5.

Its really not that hard though.

Remove your clutch hydro master cyl, and make a cable stop on the fire wall. Then just attach the cable to a lever above the pivot point on the pedal.

Or you can just adapt the t5 to a hydraulic throw out bearing similar to a t56. That would be best but more expensive.

Or just get a T5 out of a 3rd gen F-body. They use a hydraulic clutch.

blu808

02-25-2008, 09:07 PM

i dont think the bell housing will work with the 302 he is using. If thats what he is using.

dirtdiggler666

02-25-2008, 09:46 PM

blu808 you are correct

im going to swap in a 87-93 5.0 engine i know everyone will hate on it but o well.

well any other options like maybe using a hydro trans out of a newer mustang??

thanks so much for the help so far

blu808

02-25-2008, 09:50 PM

You should just get the hydraulic throwout bearing conversion for the t5. Infact if you are interested I have a complete 302 with a t5 swap sitting here. I believe it is a 91 or whatever the last year was before they changed to the hypernuematic pistons. I paid $1000.00 for it a year ago. I would let you have it for $600 or so if you are interested.

Luke

g6civcx

02-25-2008, 09:50 PM

Or just get a T5 out of a 3rd gen F-body. They use a hydraulic clutch.

I'm using a T5 from a 305 'maro/'bird.

93superHICAS

02-26-2008, 05:57 PM

ok the t56, they use what. hydraulic or the cable type clutch cable?

DarkPhoenix

02-26-2008, 07:41 PM

ok the t56, they use what. hydraulic or the cable type clutch cable?

T56 is hydraulic, but came with three different input shafts and bellhousings.

GM Bellhousing and input shaft(The T56 was offered as a transaxle on the C5 and C6 Vettes)

Ford Bellhousing and input shaft from the 03-04 Terminator Cobra

Dodge Bellhousing and input shaft from the Viper.

racepar1

03-04-2008, 12:01 AM

HMMMMMMMM....... Vette T-56 transaxle in a 240?????? That would be SICK! BLU808, think it can be done? And I mean realistically possible, not theoretically possible.

blu808

03-04-2008, 08:01 PM

yes it can be done but then the 240 would be heavier in the rear. lol

gsracer

03-04-2008, 08:18 PM

There isn't enough room under the S chassis, in my opinion for a dual. .

There is plenty room under the s chassis for dual. I used dual 3 inch under my car and my car is practicly on the floor.

g6civcx

03-05-2008, 08:30 AM

yes it can be done but then the 240 would be heavier in the rear. lol

I have a rear half tub and fuel cell so that wouldn't necessarily be bad thing. The thing that would hold me back is the fabrication cost to make it fit.

There is plenty room under the s chassis for dual. I used dual 3 inch under my car and my car is practicly on the floor.

I think he wants to run another set of pipe on the passenger side. The underbody isn't notched out like the driver side so he may have clearance issues.

racepar1

03-05-2008, 12:36 PM

yes it can be done but then the 240 would be heavier in the rear. lol

It would probably be a better option in a coupe cuz they're quite a bit lighter in the rear than the fastbacks. I've never seen one of the t-56 transaxles so I don't really know how big they are. I've seen lots of the rear mounted vette automatics, but never a 6-speed.

lazierhobo

03-17-2008, 02:08 PM

the vette t-56 transaxle has the same trans housing as a regular t-56 transmission i believe. ive seen some pictures, and it just looks like it is the transmission bolted directly to a diff.

Sir

03-17-2008, 04:33 PM

http://www.06z06.com/06%20Z06%20Drivetrain.JPG

Z06 drivetrain

93superHICAS

03-26-2008, 02:28 PM

ok question, what kind of clutch's yall using, what are some good one's were could i get a lightweight flywheel, or does it even matter?

*edit*
got another question, the difference between the flywheel teeth, like 168teeth to 154 teeth or what ever, is that just due to having different years from the sbc 350 or the difference in like starters etc..

has any body used the mini clutches?

doc99

03-30-2008, 06:02 PM

Which engine are you asking about?

I'm using an LS7 clutch and LS2 flywheel on my LS1. About the same weight as stock and the same pedal feel but with much much more clamping force.

93superHICAS

04-01-2008, 04:30 PM

yeah thanks i was asking about the mini clutches for like oval track and circle track cars. but i figured it all out,

blu808

04-01-2008, 10:56 PM

Would you mind posting some info about them?

Thanks.

racepar1

04-01-2008, 11:43 PM

There's TONS of race clutch options for chevy's. They look similar to a tilton triple carbon clutch, but not actually carbon and much less expensive. If you just do a quick search on google you should find plenty to choose from.

g6civcx

04-02-2008, 05:52 AM

I'm using a Sachs OEM clutch for now. I didn't want anything more aggressive because I've already exceeded the GM factory torque rating for the T5.

Car goes on the dyno today. We'll see how much it's pulling out.

Neejay

04-02-2008, 06:42 AM

g6civcx

04-02-2008, 04:46 PM

Jegs engine package 1 = $2200 shipped: http://www.jegs.com/p/GM+Performance/752506/10002/-1/10763

Block hugger headers. 2-1 Y pipe. PDM Racing high flow S13 cat. Open side pipe no muffler.

Today on a Dynapack it made at the flywheel:

220 bhp @ 4500 RPM
295 ft-lb @ 2000 RPM

No, that's not a typo. Peak torque was two hundred ninety five ft-lb at two thousand RPMs.

Neejay

04-02-2008, 06:47 PM

g6civcx

04-03-2008, 06:20 AM

Is that below, at, or above your expectations?

For $2,200, granted it doesn't rev that high, the torque blows away anything I can buy new or used at that price.

93superHICAS

04-04-2008, 11:35 PM

holy cheeto's

g6civcx

04-30-2008, 09:42 AM

Dyno plot of flywheel torque. This is before correcting for parasytic loss. So I'm guessing the motor is putting about 350 ft-lbs at the crank.

Baseline run with no mods on a $2,200 crate motor.

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/7734/dynoof4.jpg

Blown240sx

05-15-2008, 06:27 PM

g6civcx

05-20-2008, 07:30 AM

My 408 motor was the same way

I made peak torque 430 ft/lb @ 3500 little higher but @ 2000 I was making 350 lb/ft. Peaked out at 430 hp @ 5600

I have to say its hard to go back to the import motor having so much off idle torque.

There is really no difference between low and high end torque. If paired with correct gearing, either motor will work well when in the power band.

The problem is that it takes longer to get into the power band and is easier to fall out of the band if you're not careful. So starting out and driving requires more planning with a peaky motor.

hype

05-20-2008, 11:24 PM

I've got a T-56 from the C5 Corvette. Will it work for the LS1 swap into my 1991 Nissan 240SX hatchback or must I have a T-56 transmission from a F-body?

blu808

05-20-2008, 11:48 PM

No the c5 uses a transaxle in the rear of the car. The only similarities are the internals.

Sorry.

hype

05-20-2008, 11:53 PM

Sucks for me.

blu808

05-21-2008, 01:38 AM

Maybe you can sell it for a good amount on the vette forums? Just tryin to help bro.

hype

05-21-2008, 03:59 AM

Maybe you can sell it for a good amount on the vette forums? Just tryin to help bro.Technically I haven't taken delivery on the Corvette T-56 yet .. was due to pick it up in 2 hours, so I can back out of the deal (cash deal). Thanks for saving me man!

irax

05-21-2008, 04:13 AM

Technically I haven't taken delivery on the Corvette T-56 yet .. was due to pick it up in 2 hours, so I can back out of the deal (cash deal). Thanks for saving me man!

I hate people like you sooooo much

I'm sorry if I ruined this thread with that comment

Jegs engine package 1 = $2200 shipped: http://www.jegs.com/p/GM+Performance/752506/10002/-1/10763

Block hugger headers. 2-1 Y pipe. PDM Racing high flow S13 cat. Open side pipe no muffler.

Today on a Dynapack it made at the flywheel:

220 bhp @ 4500 RPM
295 ft-lb @ 2000 RPM

No, that's not a typo. Peak torque was two hundred ninety five ft-lb at two thousand RPMs.

Thats soo freaking awesome it must just love roasting tires up to third gear.

blu808

05-21-2008, 01:01 PM

yea tq is fun. my fd made

330 pnd ft tq at the wheels at 2000 rpm
and then shot up to 388 pnd ft tq and held all the way to 6500 rpm.

g6civcx

05-23-2008, 02:13 PM

yea tq is fun. my fd made

330 pnd ft tq at the wheels at 2000 rpm
and then shot up to 388 pnd ft tq and held all the way to 6500 rpm.

That's very nice. I can make pretty much the same torque, but this motor can't hold the revs for nothing. After 4,000 RPM I may as well shift cuz I can make more thrust at the wheels in the next gear than staying in the same gear :2f2f:

On2

05-29-2008, 09:28 PM

ok question, what kind of clutch's yall using, what are some good one's were could i get a lightweight flywheel, or does it even matter? Textralia, McLeod, SPEC, Exedy, Zoom, RAM make some pretty nice twin disc clutches. I want an Exedy but will likely go with a Textralia.

Sir

05-29-2008, 10:11 PM

I want Exedy as well, but mine already came with SPEC setup and light flywheel, so I'm keeping that.

LS6 clutch is a popular option but the flywheel is like 50lbs.

doc99

05-29-2008, 11:22 PM

I'm running an LS7 clutch on my LS1'ed S13. When I got the clutch it felt VERY heavy along with the flywheel. But I really don't notice the weight difference when driving it (compared to the 3 SRs and one KA-T's I've owned). The torque from the LS1 just out powers it. It's an amazing feeling. It's so linear, regardless of a couple extra lbs on the flywheel/pressure plate combo.

twistedsymphony

06-06-2008, 02:04 PM

I've been researching this swap for the last 2-3 months... I bought my S14 last fall and was going to go SR but after researching that it seemed like a whole lot of money for not much benefit over stock... Researched VQ, KA-T, RB, an 2JZ, asked everyone I could find who already owned one of those cars what they thought about it... problems etc... After all that there was no doubt that LSx was the best swap option for the kind of car I wanted to build (300+whp daily drivable with same or better than stock weight and weight distribution and will cost me $7K or less to do). Lots of people have given me lots of reasons why they don't like LS1 swaps... I did my research and I'm satisfied with my conclusion...

My thread on LS1 tech: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9072887

One member even provided a spreadsheet with a bolt for bolt breakdown of his costs to do his swap completely custom (~$7K including the motor)... there's lot of other good info there too.

but enough about me...

Anyway I spoke with dozens of people on LS1 tech and they all really hated the Hinson kit... Personally I don't see anything wrong with their kit. IMO it's a bit pricey for what you get and I'm weary of anything that requires cutting away a major support member. But I'm not one to make a decision without looking for all the possible options available.

After reading through this entire thread I'm quite surprised that the ALTERNATIVE LSx swap kits weren't mentioned at all... I looked into the Hinson kit and I also looked into the alternatives on the market.

Some of the other LSx Kits:
Daft Innovations kit for the S13 (and soon for the S14):
http://www.daftinnovations.com/s13ls1/index.html

Skky kit for the S14 (and soon for the S13):
http://sikky.com/products/mount_kits

I didn't look into the daftinnovations kit much but the impression I got was that instead of modifying the cross member they modifed the GTO oil pan and some other modifications with the sway bar I think... but the SKKY kit looks like THE way to go for S14 owners... I spoke over email with their tech at lenght and I'll be using their kit for my swap... it's just barely been released and only to a small group of pre-order customers.

you can see a picture of the kit here:
http://www.d-rated.com/public/images/ls1/kit/complete/5.jpg

basically the skky doesn't modify the front crossmember AT ALL nor is there any tranny tunnel or firewall modifications needed, or any spacers... or any of that junk. Instead they built a 100% custom oil pan that clears everything in an S14... it holds 7QTs of Oil AND has the benefit of traps and baffles so that the engine doesn't suffer oil starvation when it encounters long periods of lateral movement (eg: drifting/hard cornering) since the GTO pan wasn't designed very well for that application. They claim the engine sits lower and farther back than any other kit. I don't have any measurements but comparing pictures from their site to those of other kits it seems to have some merit... either way a reasonably priced kit that includes nearly everything you need and doesn't require modification to install, and adds some upgrades to the motor at the same time sold me...

What the kit ($1700) includes
-Custom Oil Pan
-Engine Mounts (with a eurothane cushion)
-Remote Oil Filter Relocation kit
-Transmission cross member and mount
-Steel Driveshaft to bolt a T56 up to the factory rear end (can be upgraded to Aluminum for an extra $200)

I'm not just here to parade their kit though... I just wanted to present it to the forum as an alternative... hopefully some of that info could get incorporated into the top post...

Some Questions I still have:
-Are there any Y-Pipes on the market that will bolt up to a set of S14 compatible headers and mate up to the factory S14 cat location? I've seen a few headders mentioned but everyone seems to say that Ypipes have to be custom made
-What is needed to get AC and heat working?
-What is needed to get power steering working?
-What is needed to get the factory gauges working?
-I've seen people talk about upgrading to a walboro fuel pump but wouldn't you also have to upgrade the fuel filter? What about on the engine end? does the LS1 have a FPR that can be used? Anything needed to adapt it to the LS1?
-What about other amenities such as Cruise Control, how do you get those working?

Some of these questions have been brought up before and lightly discussed but IMO the answers have been dodgey at best... mostly just people saying "you can make it work" with no real straight answer as to HOW...

Anyway this is a great thread and despite my prior research I did learn a few things reading through it :D

doc99

06-06-2008, 06:52 PM

I, personally, think $1700 is a bit much. It cost me $75 in steel to build my motor and tranny mount. If you want a bolt in kit it's great though, nice quality. With these cars and these motors I find the appeal of building you own kit more satisfying then buying a kit. Also it cost me around $6000, that's from having no car no motor or anything, to having a running LS1'ed 240sx. I had a few hook-ups though :)

Now for you questions

Some Questions I still have:
-Are there any Y-Pipes on the market that will bolt up to a set of S14 compatible headers and mate up to the factory S14 cat location? I've seen a few headders mentioned but everyone seems to say that Ypipes have to be custom made

Not that I know of. You pretty much need to build a full custom exhaust. My LS13 is going in tomorrow to get mine built.

-What is needed to get AC and heat working?

Heat is two hoses, from the block to the firewall. It's cake

A/C will need your Nissan lines mated up with the Chevy lines. Fairly easy.

-What is needed to get power steering working?

I bought a line from PXRacing. It was $100, braided with nice fittings. P/S works fine.

-What is needed to get the factory gauges working?

Tach should work wiring in the LS1 PCM straight to the gauges. Water temp will need your stock 240sx sensor placed somewhere on the LS1 and wires ran to the cluster. Speedo needs a Dakota Digital conversion box. Fuel level works as normal.

-I've seen people talk about upgrading to a walboro fuel pump but wouldn't you also have to upgrade the fuel filter? What about on the engine end? does the LS1 have a FPR that can be used? Anything needed to adapt it to the LS1?

You need a Walbro and a Vette FPR/Filter. You read that correct, the Vette has the regulator and the filter all in one unit. Costs $45 or so from any parts store. From a '98+ Vette

-What about other amenities such as Cruise Control, how do you get those working?

No idea on cruise, I'm guessing you could just hook up the cables and it should work. My car doesn't have cruise so I'm not positive on that.

twistedsymphony

06-06-2008, 10:10 PM

Thanks for the great replies doc99

I agree that $1700 is pretty expensive for the Sikky kit but I personally don't have any welding equipment nor very good welding skills (I took a one day course about 8 years ago and never really practiced since). Comparing it to to the Hinson and other kits it's actually cheaper considering it includes the drive shaft and oil pan which are two things not included in the other kits that you'll probably need to get anyway.

This will be my first engine swap though and I'm pretty confident that with a kit like that I'll be able to pull it off... maybe I'll invest in some welding equipment and try my hand at making that y-pipe so the next project I tackle I'll custom fab myself.

doc99

06-07-2008, 10:02 AM

Building exhaust sucks man. I built my headers and it was a nightmare. I built everything else for my swap by myself but when it comes to precisely routing piping (like exhaust) I'm leaving it to the pros next time. :)

twistedsymphony

06-07-2008, 02:43 PM

haha... ok then... maybe I'll have that done.

thankfully there is a custom exhaust shop less than a mile from my house so transporting the car there shouldn't be too difficult. they do good work too I've had them do repairs the shat-tastic HKS exhaust I had on my WRX as well as build a full blown custom exhaust for a Toyota off-road pickup i used to own...

Another fun fact is that a few days ago I realized that there is a salvage yard that specializes in camaros and firebirds less than 5 miles from my house as well. I just shot them off an email earlier today to see if they have an LS1s... if that doesn't work out I found a guy with a whole Camaro SS (smashed in rear end) that he's willing to sell for about $2500... cheap motorset with all the fixins FTW

doc99

06-07-2008, 02:57 PM

That a damn good price. Get that Camaro, especially if it's a 6-speed.

I bought a Flowmaster Super 40, a catco cat and am having my shit built as we speak. I'll be into the whole deal for a bit over $400. Not too bad for a collector-back exhaust.

twistedsymphony

06-07-2008, 05:43 PM

well I've already got a nice 3" catback and a 3" catco cat... I'm hoping that I can find a reasonably priced set of headers that will clear the steering column and then just have the shop down the street build a Y-pipe for ~$100... they built a 3" header back exhaust for my Toyota for ~$130... worst case is they have to build the whole thing and sell the catback though I hope I don't have to.

EDIT: Update here since I don't want to double post

I've talked with someone from PX Racing and they also make a kit: http://shop.pxracing.com/main.sc

their kit right now is for the S14 and they're working on an S13 version.

They use cross member modification with the GTO oil pan similar to Hinson but they make custom engine and transmission mounts... I should also mention that for what they offer the quality looks fantastic and they're the cheapest kit on the market from what I can tell.

Another interesting thing is that they make Power Steering Conversion lines as well as AC conversion lines and do ECU tuning... Certainly a kit to consider if you plan on doing this swap...

RUTH'LESSDET

06-10-2008, 08:44 AM

doc99

06-10-2008, 09:57 AM

I bought the 12" one and cut it in half so now I have an extra one. I couldn't find the 6" part number. Kinda shitty since the 12" one is like $20. Oh well.

RUTH'LESSDET

06-10-2008, 11:01 AM

I bought the 12" one and cut it in half so now I have an extra one. I couldn't find the 6" part number. Kinda shitty since the 12" one is like $20. Oh well.
so when u cut it does it have to be flared?

twistedsymphony

06-10-2008, 12:52 PM

doc99

06-10-2008, 12:56 PM

so when u cut it does it have to be flared?

Flared for the rubber line? It might be a good idea but I had to rush getting my car together since I'm headed out of the country. I've had the rubber line on there withno flare for a couple weeks now and it's working fine. No leaks yet. As long as you use quality clamps and proper sized hose I don't see it being a huge issue. I'll eventually run some braided lines with a similar fitting that was posted above.

g6civcx

06-11-2008, 06:44 AM

Hey guys I'm currently doing and ls2 swap and I need a part # or some help finding a fitting from the outlet of the corvette fuel filter to a -6an. I don't wanna use that 12" dormans part is there any other alternatives???

I'm running a mechanical fuel pump and a fuel cell so my experience won't help you.

But if worst comes to worst, can you weld a fitting onto the fuel filter? I don't know what the fuel filter looks like, but at worst you can consider doing that.

RUTH'LESSDET

06-11-2008, 09:20 PM

When I was doing research I found this part:
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=256/category_id=130/home_id=71/mode=prod/prd256.htm

a lot of the RX7 guys were using it since they have a -6AN fitting as well.
Hey twisted do you know if everything in the picture is included because thats pretty much what i need(well its the item on the right the tube with the fitting on it)
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/cartimages/prd_zm_256.jpg

twistedsymphony

06-12-2008, 07:33 AM

I don't know to be honest but I've heard their tech support is fantastic so you might just give them a call...

Sir

06-12-2008, 12:01 PM

I, personally, think $1700 is a bit much.

that doesn't include headers.
so its pretty expensive.

twistedsymphony

06-12-2008, 12:28 PM

that doesn't include headers.
so its pretty expensive.

but it does include the drive shaft and the oil pan which would cost roughly $700 on top of any other kit, including a custom build.

... not to mention the oilpan is built much better for track use than the GTO pan that everyone elses uses (which is notorious for causing oil starvation during hard cornering BTW)

and the engine mounts are CNCed out of solid aluminum as opposed to welded together so it's a whole lot more precise than any of the other kits.

when it comes down to it, after factoring in the pan and driveshaft it's only about $200 more than the PX racing kit, and a lot higher quality, and it's CHEAPER than the other kits out there... not to mention that $200 you saved with the PX Racing kit is lost when you have to buy an accusump to make up for the crappy oil pan.

building the kit yourself is always the cheapest... but that goes out the window unless you have welding equipment AND know how to weld well enough to pull it off.

doc99

06-12-2008, 01:39 PM

I can't say I've heard of GTO oiling problems due to the pan. The way the pickup area is designed I can't see it being a problem.

twistedsymphony

06-12-2008, 02:41 PM

I can't say I've heard of GTO oiling problems due to the pan. The way the pickup area is designed I can't see it being a problem.

I don't know the details as to why but I have a number of friends who are into GM cars and the few that track GTOs on the weekends all run Accusumps because of this apparent problem.

Sir

06-16-2008, 12:06 AM

GTO pan need extra half a quart. thats on GTO manual or something.
I'll trust GM cast one vs someone I've never heard of. Just because they have a welder and access to CNC machine.

and for $1700 bux, you can get yourself a lot of steel and a nice welder OR lots of beer for your friends.

But if you got their mounts, I'd love to get some specs on them, I can replicate you a free extra pair.

550sx!

06-23-2008, 04:25 PM

like the firewall mod.

did one to mine too for my 327 to fit nicely

would post pic but can not get them to work
so far I can only post on nicoclub and have the pics work.
:confused: pulling url from picassaweb.google and gives me big fat X

A peek at mine. Clears the hood just fine even with the air cleaner.

Chevy 350 GenI, carb, Borg Warner T5, HEI, mechanical fuel pump, block hugger headers, custom Y-pipe to meet stock cat, BMC is reused, clutch master is reused, custom brake lines from BMC to caliper, taka clutch line, custom rear sump oil pan cut and rewelded to clear subframe, steering rack is reused, custom hi and lo pressure steering lines, jones racing serpentine kit which comes with alt, steering pump, idler pulley, water pump bracket, oil filter relocation kit.

The motor clears the SR koyo and FAL by a good 10". The firewall is moved back a good 6".

If anybody has any specific question about this setup PM me. Please do not ask about mounts, for now.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7228/enginelp4.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/4576/firewallib4.jpg

g6civcx

06-28-2008, 09:10 PM

would post pic but can not get them to work
so far I can only post on nicoclub and have the pics work.
:confused: pulling url from picassaweb.google and gives me big fat X

Try ImageShack. Search on google for the link. Upload and copy/paste the link it spits out. You can choose one with img tags already appended or direct link URL.

Quick update. I got Package 1: http://www.jegs.com/p/GM+Performance/752506/10002/-1/10763

Block hugger headers, 3" Y-pipe and open exhaust. No other mod.

Yesterday on the Dynapack it made 325 ft-lbs of torque at the wheels, which should be around 390-395 at the crank if you believe in 15% parasytic loss. I'll upload the dyno sheet shortly.

Motor makes 295 ft-lbs at 1,500 RPM all the way up to 4,500 RPM. Response is excellent.

twistex

07-02-2008, 03:07 AM

Hi, this is Rich at Daft Innovations. I have been reading some of these posts and I obviously know the other kits that are available out there. Kits are mainly for people that have money, no urge to weld or make there own kit. The sikky kit is for someone who has a good amount of money that wants to set there car up for track and wants to make sure they have the best protection while cornering etc. The custom pan does allow for them to sit motor slightly lower but I don't agree on it sitting back farther. My kit that I charge 1630 for consists of a engine subframe NO CORE required, Engine mounts, Transmission crossmember and mount, Driveline in steel or add 200 for aluminum, 1 3/4 Long tube headers 3 inch collectors, and a power steering line steel braided. I try to be fair but the headers alone are a huge headache when it comes to tig welding them up. Anyways there are a few nice kits out there that I have seen. Each one of them have there perks. One thing I do know is my kit has been tested for over 2 years and many hours of drifting and track events under its belt with no failures. My original headers from over 2 years ago that are 18 gauge mild steel still have no cracked or anything. My new headers I make are 16 gauge.. why replace something on my track/daily driver if its not broken. The whole reason I decided to even market a kit is because when I was performing my ls1 swap no one made headers! I would have bought them back then to save time and headaches. I think my kits still the cheapest for what you get. I will admit that Sikky oil pan looks dope :)

twistedsymphony

07-02-2008, 05:06 AM

I didn't know you guys offered headers. What's the price on those?

I'm still torn between your kit and the Sikky kit... basically I'm still waiting to find a reasonably priced motorset.

g6civcx

07-02-2008, 05:10 AM

I don't agree on it sitting back farther

I'll agree with you here. Most bolt-in kits have terrible engine placement because you don't have to notch the firewall. I haven't seen one kit that has good placement. That's why I went with custom mounts.

Plus nobody makes a mount kit for Gen I GM small block V8.

Sir

08-18-2008, 10:34 AM

I try to be fair but the headers alone are a huge headache when it comes to tig welding them up.

Headers suck.
We're making mine now. Tackling the easy side first and I still am tempted to just order up a pair and say "fuck it"
But I want stainless and with my luck they won't fit, LOL.

g6civcx

08-20-2008, 11:02 PM

Headers suck.
We're making mine now. Tackling the easy side first and I still am tempted to just order up a pair and say "fuck it"
But I want stainless and with my luck they won't fit, LOL.

Can you make it cheaper than you can buy?

Hedman Hedders - Block Hugger Hedders (http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3481)
Holley Performance Super Comp Block hugger Products (http://www.holley.com/types/Super%20Comp%20Block%20hugger.asp)

RUTH'LESSDET

08-25-2008, 12:20 PM

Got my car fired up yesterday take a look! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nETRVa9SqwQ)

Neejay

08-25-2008, 12:26 PM

Got my car fired up yesterday take a look! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nETRVa9SqwQ)
Sweet! sounds healthy and good. What are your plans for exhaust?

RUTH'LESSDET

08-25-2008, 03:51 PM

Sweet! sounds healthy and good. What are your plans for exhaust?

I'm gonna be running a 3" kooks y-pipe(from a ls1 camaro needs to be modded for my car) into 3" catco cat into a apex-I gt spec exhaust

qwarnon

08-30-2008, 01:08 PM

alright im probably going to get told to search.. but ive been searching and im looking for a better or more exact answer. I have seen answers to some of these questions.. but im trying to get them all in one place.
if someone can point me in the right direction thats great.

anyway.. im in the process of a chevy gen 1 355 swap into an s13 coupe. there are only a couple things i need help with. I'm not worried about hood clearance right now ill work on that later, what i need to know is:

A) can i modify the oil pan and pickup to fit with out hacking up my crossmember
(this is what i would prefer) i was thinking possibly extending the oil pickup tube to the front of the pan and just fabricating a pan with basically a front sump.

OR can i buy a premodified oil pan that would allow clearance with little to no crossmember modding

B) do i need to notch my firewall at all and if so where? im using an old
T-10 4speed with some internal upgrades. I picked this for its small size and mechanical simplicity. i figured that with its small size it would make less firewall fabrication necessary.

C)what have most Gen 1 swappers done for mounts? i know there is always full custom (which may be best) but also there are universal small block chevy mounts that hot rod and rat rod builders use. would these work well?

D) power steering. ill be using block hugger headers and should be able to perform any mods needed to get them to clear.. any special tricks to getting clearance?

thanks alot in advance. if these questions have been answered before please point me in the right direction. I've been reasearching for a long time now while slowly rebuilding the motor.. and its getting to the point where its time to get her dropped in. so im trying to get a general consensus on these things.

g6civcx

09-01-2008, 07:58 PM

A) can i modify the oil pan and pickup to fit with out hacking up my crossmember
(this is what i would prefer) i was thinking possibly extending the oil pickup tube to the front of the pan and just fabricating a pan with basically a front sump.

Yes. The more you bring the motor towards the back of the car the easier it will be to fab the oil pan.

OR can i buy a premodified oil pan that would allow clearance with little to no crossmember modding

I don't know of any available.

B) do i need to notch my firewall at all and if so where? im using an old
T-10 4speed with some internal upgrades. I picked this for its small size and mechanical simplicity. i figured that with its small size it would make less firewall fabrication necessary.

Maybe. How big is it compared to a T5?

C)what have most Gen 1 swappers done for mounts? i know there is always full custom (which may be best) but also there are universal small block chevy mounts that hot rod and rat rod builders use. would these work well?

Custom subframe mounts and standard Chevy mounts on top of that.

D) power steering. ill be using block hugger headers and should be able to perform any mods needed to get them to clear.. any special tricks to getting clearance?

No.

qwarnon

09-02-2008, 12:42 PM

thanks alot sir! also when u modded the pan.. did you go with basically a front sump or did you leave the sump in the rear? if you went front sump did you just extend the pickup tube to the front?

g6civcx

09-02-2008, 08:09 PM

did you go with basically a front sump or did you leave the sump in the rear?

In order to do a front sump, you have to move the motor towards the front and possibly raise the motor up as high as possible because the motor stradles the subframe.

With the rear sump, the further back you move the motor the easier it becomes to put the motor lower and fab the oil pan.

I went with the rear.

if you went front sump did you just extend the pickup tube to the front?

This question is moot.

RUTH'LESSDET

09-05-2008, 06:48 PM

just curious is any body running oil pressure, or water temp guages on your ls1 or ls2's if so im would like to see how you hooked it up.

Sir

09-07-2008, 02:29 AM

not yet there bud.
(BTW I'm jealous your of progress)
But there is a place for water temp in the head. Planning or reusing stock gauge there. Look for the pic on LS1tech.

jmauld

09-07-2008, 05:57 AM

just curious is any body running oil pressure, or water temp guages on your ls1 or ls2's if so im would like to see how you hooked it up.

I plan on using this in the water passage on the passenger's side head: Speed Inc - Pure Power (http://www.speedinc.com/cont.cfm?cid=C0000820)

RUTH'LESSDET

09-07-2008, 08:04 AM

not yet there bud.
(BTW I'm jealous your of progress)
But there is a place for water temp in the head. Planning or reusing stock gauge there. Look for the pic on LS1tech.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/GTO%20SWAP/IMG_7231.jpg
old picture but....top left
I plan on using this in the water passage on the passenger's side head: Speed Inc - Pure Power (http://www.speedinc.com/cont.cfm?cid=C0000820)
I used it for the stock gauge already....I guess I could just disconnect it and run my guage there without a problem.....what about the oil pressure sender thing on the back of the motor......
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v481/ruthlessdet/oilpressure.jpg
will i get a check engine if i run my gauge here?

jmauld

09-07-2008, 09:16 AM

I used it for the stock gauge already....

There's a matching hole on the driver's side head (at the front of the engine), can you use it, or is there something in the way?

I guess I could just disconnect it and run my guage there without a problem.....what about the oil pressure sender thing on the back of the motor......

will i get a check engine if i run my gauge here?
There are a couple of ports in the GTO oil pan. I haven't researched it yet, but I was hoping those could be used for oil temperature and oil pressure.

Sir

09-07-2008, 11:01 AM

There are a couple of ports in the GTO oil pan. I haven't researched it yet, but I was hoping those could be used for oil temperature and oil pressure.

those will work for oil temp. But there is no oil pressure in the pan.

RUTH'LESSDET

09-09-2008, 10:27 AM

ok i found a solution for oil pressure & temp :
solution #1 (http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sender-adapter-13-16-16-thread.aspx)

solution #2 (http://www.dashhawk.com/features.html)

Sir

09-09-2008, 10:56 AM

will solution 1 even work with GTO pan?

I think when I looked at it last, there seemed like it wouldn't clear the pan, but I could be wrong.

RUTH'LESSDET

09-09-2008, 11:05 AM

will solution 1 even work with GTO pan?

I think when I looked at it last, there seemed like it wouldn't clear the pan, but I could be wrong.

yeah it should just screw on and then you put the oil filter on after like a sandwich... i ordered it so we will find out shorty if it works!

lost_generation

09-10-2008, 08:39 AM

has anyone here looked into the L33 5.3 yet?... something that has been in my mind for along time(and i recently aquired a s13 shell).... but the L33 is the 05+ 5.3(327) that came in the truck, but its all aluminum finally, 310hp and idk tq... but i'm sure its right up there... but you can find the motors for under 1g no problem, and the t56 mounts right up to it, and if you were to get corvette accessories, intake and a gto pan it would be the same thing as a ls1 looks wise and power for half the price

Sir

09-10-2008, 11:09 AM

it would work, just getting the other stuff like non-truck intake, as I'm not sure if truck one will clear the hood.

g6civcx

09-11-2008, 06:12 AM

it would work, just getting the other stuff like non-truck intake, as I'm not sure if truck one will clear the hood.

Look in my engine placement thread in this forum. My placement is the lowest I've seen.

Measure the top of the block to the top of your intake manifold.

slydwyssr20

09-17-2008, 09:25 PM

I've just spent the last 4 hours reading up on the lsx threads on various sites and I still can't seem to find an answer to what I'm looking for. I've got a JDM S13 and have plans for a 5.3 and t56 conversion. My concern is that it seems that the clutch master cylinder will not clear the engine. Has anyone done this swap in a RHD silvia and experienced this potential problem? Is there a way around it if it is a problem? What sord of clearence is there between the ls motors and the firewall? This seems like an appropriate thread to ask this question, and if it's been answered somewhere in the previous 15 pages, forgive me for the redundancy as I'm growing impatient with searching on the internet and not finding any results. Thanks for the great thread and keep up the good work.

g6civcx

09-17-2008, 09:59 PM

My concern is that it seems that the clutch master cylinder will not clear the engine. Has anyone done this swap in a RHD silvia and experienced this potential problem?

You are probably the only one with RHD LS-series combo. So no, I have not seen this problem before.

Is there a way around it if it is a problem?

The lower you place the motor the more clearance you will have and the better the weight distribution will be.

Otherwise you will have to go with a master cylinder mounted inside the passenger compartment.

What sord of clearence is there between the ls motors and the firewall?

It's highly dependent on the mounts you make. All the bolt in kits I've seen place the motor really high to clear the subframe.

slydwyssr20

09-17-2008, 10:10 PM

That is all common sense remedies (for myself anyways), except that I'd like to keep the oil pan level with the bottom of the x-member and still keep the weight as close to the center of the car as possible, which means as close to the firewall without running into problems with clearance and shifter placement. Has anyone else seen this at all? I don't mean in any way to dis your reply, it just seems like it's not a common swap and after searching all night, it's a little frustrating. Not that I'm not up to a chalenge or anything. There is always the option of an in car master cylinder.

g6civcx

09-17-2008, 10:18 PM

keep the oil pan level with the bottom of the x-member

The subframe is not what you should use. You need proper driveline alignment with the diff. The rest is just moving the motor as far back towards the firewall as possible.

keep the weight as close to the center of the car as possible, which means as close to the firewall without running into problems with clearance and shifter placement

You will be extremely lucky if your mounts place the shifter in the stock hole. That should not be your primary concern though. Focus on engine placement first and proper driveline alignment. Then just cut a hole to accomodate the shifter.

Has anyone else seen this at all?

Same issue everyone with a GM v8 has gone through, minus the clutch mc issue.

This is not a clearly articulated issue, and not many people have the swap. Any info you find will be speculative at best.

Sir

09-18-2008, 11:53 AM

As far as shifter placement - no need to mod firewall and the shifter will line up in the hole.
Where in the hole depends on how far back you'll push the motor.

trsilvias13

09-18-2008, 11:59 AM

daft sell a rhd mounting kit now... iirc it cost $50 more than the lhd version.

I've just spent the last 4 hours reading up on the lsx threads on various sites and I still can't seem to find an answer to what I'm looking for. I've got a JDM S13 and have plans for a 5.3 and t56 conversion. My concern is that it seems that the clutch master cylinder will not clear the engine. Has anyone done this swap in a RHD silvia and experienced this potential problem? Is there a way around it if it is a problem? What sord of clearence is there between the ls motors and the firewall? This seems like an appropriate thread to ask this question, and if it's been answered somewhere in the previous 15 pages, forgive me for the redundancy as I'm growing impatient with searching on the internet and not finding any results. Thanks for the great thread and keep up the good work.

slydwyssr20

09-18-2008, 11:54 PM

Thanks. I just found this out late last night. I just needed to know it was possible. As far as shifter placement, you are absolutly right. Should line right up with the hole, just need a 5.0 shifter to line up shifter with my hand in a comfortable position. They even have a clutch master cylinder relocate kit, which doesn't seem too hard to replicate. I'm going to check into it more, but for 400 bucks for that, it doesn't seem like too bad of a deal, I guess.

trsilvias13

09-30-2008, 11:49 AM

By any chance anyone has the vacuum diagram for the ls1? Also maybe the location of all the sensor?

I cannot locate a FSM anywhere online.

KA-T_240

10-22-2008, 11:28 PM

What have you guys beed doing for using your factory speedo and key?

Sir

10-23-2008, 10:29 PM

Dakota Digtal box to get the factory speedo working.

g6civcx

11-03-2008, 05:58 AM

As far as shifter placement - no need to mod firewall and the shifter will line up in the hole.

Questions:

What's more important, driveline placement or shifter fitment?

Would you mod the firewall for driveline placement, or shifter placement? Both?

What have you guys beed doing for using your factory speedo and key?

What do you mean key? The ignition lock and be wired up to work as normal, or you can bypass and do a custom push start switch panel.

Dakota Digtal box to get the factory speedo working.

Have you been successful with Dakota stuff to get GM VSS pulses to convert to Nissan VSS pulses?

blu808

11-03-2008, 09:27 AM

Why dont you guys just use an obd2 gauge system like we do. No additional senders needed, no additional wires.

You can use something like this mounted where the stock gauges would be with a nice cf panel.

GTech-Pro Model SS (http://www.gtechpro.com/egs.html)

Or you could use the plx one.

PLX Devices Inc. - DM-200 OBD II 60mm Universal Gauge (http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm200obd/)

Or you guys can wait for the obd2 version of this like I am doing.
http://www.racepak.com/images/iq3dash.jpg

Racepak Data Systems - Professional Motorsports Data Acquisition Systems (http://www.racepak.com/Components/IQ3.php)

Stock gauges fail anyway.

rb20hatch

11-06-2008, 02:34 PM

sikky.com has some parts packages for the ls1 one in a s13 or s14

PXRdriFT

11-06-2008, 07:54 PM

Have you been successful with Dakota stuff to get GM VSS pulses to convert to Nissan VSS pulses?

I've had the dakota installed on my swap for two years. The first time was difficult and a pain but I've done a few others and it gets easier.

Sir

12-05-2008, 02:09 AM

Have you been successful with Dakota stuff to get GM VSS pulses to convert to Nissan VSS pulses?

GM uses 4000 ppm signal. Nissan uses 2000ppm signal (IIRC)
there is a 2000ppm oc signal coming out of the DD box that you hook up to stock speedo. Done.

Questions:

What's more important, driveline placement or shifter fitment?
To me it was more important to move the engine back enough to allow me to install front sway bar w.o cutting up the pan.

Would you mod the firewall for driveline placement, or shifter placement? Both?

Since the T56 is just a little shorter than KA trans, no mods are needed for shifter placememt.

Did I mod the firewall - no. I don't consider swinging a hammer a few times "modding". ;)

takk808

12-06-2008, 07:57 PM

S13 kit will be availible by the end of the week.
S14 is allready availible.

Headers: $985 for both Stainless 1 3/4" long tubes into 3" collectors.

S13/S14 complete mounting kit $1122.32 about a week turn around. Includes corvette engine mounts. Deduct $160 ifr they allready have vette mounts.

S13/S14 complete weld yourself kit is $80 less.

Steel drive shaft $275
Aluminum $420

This is for the Hinson supercars complete kit. Other then that there is no kit on the market for a lsx into a 240sx.

haveblue: You can find ls1/t56 complete engine packages on ebay, and craigslist for around 3000-4500

where are you located i want you to do my LS1 swap.

NoClassic

01-02-2009, 12:08 AM

Where are you guys taking your harness power sources from on the S13? It looks like the F8 and F9 plugs provide power to the nissan engine harness, but I can find pinouts for them.

g6civcx

01-02-2009, 08:16 AM

Where are you guys taking your harness power sources from on the S13?

What kind of power? Constant? Switched?

NoClassic

01-02-2009, 12:08 PM

The harness needs both constant and switched. The switched needs to be a single high load circuit or multiple circuits I can distribute the power leads amongst.

I also need a start signal, for the starter.

Antihero983

08-24-2009, 05:12 PM

any more info on getting SBC mounts? I would like to run a T5 and 350, but havent found any mounts :(

twistedsymphony

08-24-2009, 07:47 PM

any more info on getting SBC mounts? I would like to run a T5 and 350, but havent found any mounts :(

350 Chevy 240sx Products McKinney Motorsports (http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_350+Chevy+240sx)

and you didn't ask me WHY?

SexPanda

08-24-2009, 09:35 PM

There's a shop in springfield MO that kinda specializes in LSX v8 240sx swaps. I know Blake, the guy that owns it. nice guy, great work. Here's the website.

www.417motorsports.net (http://www.417motorsports.net)

if you contact him, tell him ZambieWRX sent ya lol.

951's 330i

09-20-2009, 02:28 AM

Whats a good site to find a complete ls1 or ls6 motor swap? Searching right now but all it brings up(on google) is threads from back in 02

twistedsymphony

09-20-2009, 07:29 AM

Whats a good site to find a complete ls1 or ls6 motor swap? Searching right now but all it brings up(on google) is threads from back in 02

are you looking to buy one or are you looking for information on them?

for information: silviav8forums.com :: Index (http://silviav8.com), V8 RX-7 Forum (http://www.v8rx7forum.com), Chevy | Camaro | Firebird Reviews, Performance Parts, Modifications - LS1Tech.com (http://ls1tech.com)

to buy motorsets: Chevy | Camaro | Firebird Reviews, Performance Parts, Modifications - LS1Tech.com (http://www.ls1tech.com), High Perfomance Salvage, inc. (http://www.hpsalvage.com/), eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices (http://ebay.com), http://car-part.com.

it's not like trying to source a Japanese motor, or one that's been out of production for over a decade, the best place to get a motor is to open the phone book and call a local salvage yard.

951's 330i

09-20-2009, 11:07 AM

are you looking to buy one or are you looking for information on them?

for information: silviav8forums.com:: Index (http://silviav8.com), V8 RX-7 Forum (http://www.v8rx7forum.com), Chevy | Camaro | Firebird Reviews, Performance Parts, Modifications - LS1Tech.com (http://ls1tech.com)

to buy motorsets: Chevy | Camaro | Firebird Reviews, Performance Parts, Modifications - LS1Tech.com (http://www.ls1tech.com), High Perfomance Salvage, inc. (http://www.hpsalvage.com/), eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices (http://ebay.com), Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market (http://car-part.com).

it's not like trying to source a Japanese engine, or one that's been out of production for over a decade, the best place to get a motor is to open the phone book and call a local salvage yard.

May consider this swap instead of RB depending on price difference.

twistex

11-25-2009, 10:40 PM

rb sucks compared to ls1. trust me drive a lsx powered s chassis and you will be sold!

joshy240sxxx

12-09-2009, 02:58 PM

Did Hinson ever figure out a way to keep the swap CA legal so you can at least BAR it first?

you can make it legal you just need all smog devices that came with that engine such as evap, air injection, cats ect....

95KA-Turbo

12-26-2009, 05:14 PM

Anyone have any wiring diagrams for doing bare-bones wiring? Also, can anyone confirm if I can use the stock gauge cluster? Just looking for any tips/helpful hints for wiring an 01 LS1 harness into a 97 240sx.

blu808

12-27-2009, 12:20 AM

You can use the stock gauge cluster using the dakota digital speedo conversion box, and tachometer correction.

All you need in order to get the car to start is to reflash the ecu to get rid of the VATS (technically it will start but only for like 3 seconds with it still on).

GM has always used the pink wire as switched power, red as constant 12V and Purple as the main starter solenoid lead. in a nutshell... give ignition power to the pink wires, constant power to the orange ones, take off VATS, and it runs.

the other wires you hook up are just gauge wires, reverse lights, ect.... nothing hard.

its ALMOST a stand alone harness already... only diff is it will have a couple extra wires left after its hooked up.. not a big deal..

theres one more wire not listed there.. its a thick purple wire that goes to the starter.

when it gets +12v, the starter turns the motor over.

Taken from ls1tech.com

Check out this thread. it has the answers to all your questions my friend.

LS1 Swap FAQs - LS1TECH (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/312119-ls1-swap-faqs.html)