Harness Q

[S14_Kouki]

Hey I just reacently got a SR S14 Zenki front clip in and was planning on transferring everything from it to my Kouki shell. I was just wondering if I could use the SR harness or if i would have to modify the KA harness. And if i cant use the SR harness and i have to use the KA harness what kind of modifications would i have to do to the harness besides re-pinning it. Thank you :)

[S14_Kouki]

I've been in the fresh alloy forum and looked over the wiring diagram. But the picture link is wacked :-\ And there is no link to a FSM for an SR harness pinout.

[S14_Kouki]

anyone??????

[mjjstang]

wait ur putting an sr in ur car? that currently has a KA, you will need the sr harness, you cant use the ka harness. im not sure for s14, but there are parts of the ka harness that I used when getting the sr harness to work for my car.

[driftertim]

If the SR was off a S14 with the SR it has the Nissan Vtec although the KA you have is twin cam as well. Since youre getting a Front clip though, I would rip it all out and use the S14 cluster as well and ditch the KA wiring and ECU. I'm new to Nissan, more honda knowledge but if you have a whole front clip use EVERYTHING.
-Tim

[g6civcx]

The body to ECU wiring you can reuse provided the harness wasn't hacked up. If the person who did the wiring was smart they would mate the KA harness to the SR harness using an inline harness, like a radio harness, and not hardwire it.

For the engine harness, you will definitely need to rewire it since I have never seen anybody rig up a harness for that. Everybody just hardwires it.

So it really depends on how clean the wiring was. If the SR is running right, the best bet is to bring over the entire engine harness. The ECU harness you can fix up yourself if it's not mangled too much.

Go to zeroyon.com to download FSMs. Keep doing your homework and look around for SR into S13/14 wiring guides. Post up any specific questions you have.

[S14_Kouki]

The body to ECU wiring you can reuse provided the harness wasn't hacked up. If the person who did the wiring was smart they would mate the KA harness to the SR harness using an inline harness, like a radio harness, and not hardwire it.

For the engine harness, you will definitely need to rewire it since I have never seen anybody rig up a harness for that. Everybody just hardwires it.

So it really depends on how clean the wiring was. If the SR is running right, the best bet is to bring over the entire engine harness. The ECU harness you can fix up yourself if it's not mangled too much.

Go to zeroyon.com to download FSMs. Keep doing your homework and look around for SR into S13/14 wiring guides. Post up any specific questions you have.
Hmm, ok so will I have to extend the SR harness and then Re-Pin the ECU pinouts? What im getting from most people is to trash the KA harness. And the harness is in perfect condition; clip has 6k miles on it and has been un-touched in the bay.

[sean350z]

you will need to repin the F4 plug on the SR harness to match with the M63 harness in your 240...and it's not the ONLY thing you need to do to get it running.....factory service manual is a charm...

this may help http://home.houston.rr.com/bcrouch/s14wiring.doc

here is also a pinout i did in excel of F3/M63 1995 Auto

PIN # COLOR FUNCTION
1 Black/Red Ignition On or Start
2 Black
3 Blue/Purple Rear Defogger
4 Pink Wash SW
5 Light Green Wiper Power
6 Light Green/Black Wiper High
7 Light Green/Red Wiper Low
8 Brown Wiper Off & INT Switch
9
10 Black/Yellow IACV Regulator
11 Black/Pink Fuel Pump
12
13
14
15 Purple/White Power Steering
16 Yellow/Black
17 Red Power
18 Brown Power from Ignition Switch
19
20 Red Data Link GST
21 Yellow Data Link GST Ground
22 Green Consult (SCITX) ABS
23 Green/White Consult (SCICL) ABS
24 Yellow/Green Speedometer
25 Orange/Blue Cooling Fan (RFRH)
26 Yellow/Red Tachometer ABS
27 Blue/Yellow Wiper INT Switch
28 Yellow Water Temp Gauge
29 Blue/White IACV-FICD Solenoid
30 Orange Malfunction Indicator
31 Blue/White Cruise actuator power
32 Blue Cruise air valve
33 (manual 5th position sw)
34 Orange Start Signal
35
36
37 Orange/Blue
38 Green/Black Consult (SCIRX) ABS
39 Green/Orange Ignition switch fuse (AUTO)
40 (manual neutral position sw)
41 Blue/Green Cooling Fan (RFRL)
42 Purple Wiper INT VR
43 Black/Purple Triple Pressure Switch
44 Blue/Purple IACV-FICD Solenoid (AC)
45 Orange/Black IACV-FICD Solenoid (PDSW)
46 Orange/Blue AIRCON
47 Green/Yellow Cruise release valve
48 Blue/Black Cruise vaccum motor

[S14_Kouki]

What wires do i have to have extended.

[nrg]

you extend the o2 and maf.
sean's instruction is strange.
the KA tranny power harness plugs up like normal, the s14 sr wires plug up too. all you need to do is repin the f4 plug. get the fsm and you'll see exactly which wire needs to be done.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=249019&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

[S14_Kouki]

Is that it? I was under the inpression you would have to extend more because of the fact that everything under the dash/ECU is on the other side of the car.

[nrg]

your main engine harness will have like 1 feet of slack on it. if you think about it; the harness goes on the passnager left side (RHD), the o2 and maf is closer there. so when the harness is installed on the LHD (right side) of the car, the o2 and maf is 2 feet further.

[g6civcx]

Is that it? I was under the inpression you would have to extend more because of the fact that everything under the dash/ECU is on the other side of the car.

The body harness you will be fine. The length should be right.

The engine harness will have some slack depending upon how they routed it. You have to extend the harness going to the MAFS area and any other wire you have going there because on the RHD car, those wires run straight into the left side of the firewall. On the LHD car, you need to run them into the right side of the firewall where the ECU is.

Think about it this way. 1 is the left headlamp. 2 is the right headlamp. 3 is the driver. 4 is the passenger.

1 2
3 4

On the RHD car, the ECU sits at #3. The body harness goes from 4->3. The engine harness goes 4->2->1->3 to meet up with the ECU. The MAFS and junk are sitting at #1.

Now when you flip the wiring backward, the ECU now sits at #4. The body harness goes 3->4. This is no problem since it's the right length.

The LHD engine harness goes 3->1->2->4 to meet up with the ECU. Everything is flipped backward except for the MAFS. The MAFS now has to go 1->2->4. Before it can go 1->3 straight to the ECU.

This is why you have to extend the wires in the #1 area.