we have a go on the RB swap

[Tenchuu]

Just thought i'd let you know, after:
buying a S15 SR20 In japan
Moveing back to US
Motor anlong with cash for extras never showing up
waiting a year
re-saveing up
talking to Dave for a long ass time about picking up a RB
slowly haveing the guy starting to pay me back

I am finally starting the swap into my car that i have been planning since 2003 .. RB25DET 1998 240sx.


i will put in pics and updates as i go along, but any advice is welcomed since i don't have swap knowledge. Anyone around San Diego is free to help.

Just thought i's share this with everyone as i have been talking about it/buying shit/selling shit/buying more shit for the longest time and i am happy as hell to finally get it going. car is in the shop today, RB should be showing up tommarow. it's about damn time.


Here is cliffs of this entire thread:

Day 1
So I went to upload the pics from today to Photobucket and my memory card decided that it didn't want to store any of the pics. so it will be tomorrow with the pics i guess.

Happened today:
Front bumper removed
Center panel removed
Auto shifter mechanism removed
All fluids besides brake and power steering removed
Air intake remover
Lower engine harness removed
Fan/fan shroud removed
Radiator removed
Stared at OK looking wemen
Called around trying to get people to show up that said they would.... no dice
Broke a creeper
Car on jack stands
Watched a guy pull a V6 out of a firebird in a little over 2 hours while i was still working on shit
Took pics that didn't work

And lastly found out that the Water pump face on the RB was bent, so it looks like I will have to get a new water pump.

3-18 Morning
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1895.jpg


Afternoon:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1900.jpg


Out with the old
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1903.jpg


Soon to be in with the new:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1892.jpg


Clean way to drain the PS pump:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1899.jpg



And you can see where the pulley has been rubbing on the bent water pump:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1901.jpg

that's it for today. I think that once i get the water pump i will be making a RB water pump replacement FAQ with pics for future use.


3-19
skyline X-member in :
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1907.jpg
be sure to use a pry bar and jack to get the LCA's in

Cali lift:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1906.jpg


RB intimate pic:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1918.jpg


This is going to get flushed out:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1923.jpg


3-23
Got the new motor mounts from Drift Freaq/Syko performance:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1934.jpg


3-24
So the engine is almost in. I had to remove the igniter to get it in, and the brass looking tube that cones off the brake booster to get the engine past the lip and into the bay.

I spent a little over an hour and manned to get 1 motor mount to line up. Tomorrow will be another one.

As you can see I said hell with it and used the stock Power steering loop highly modified until the time where i buy a trans coolant to use for the P/S


Also to Drift Freaq you might want to include the fact that the power steering hose needs to be 3/8 hose not 5/16 hose like it states in your install to fit on the rack.

Ready to install bay:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1938.jpg

and the sway bar spacers:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1939.jpg

Also i am ditching these 2 lines that were attached to the KA as they are useless evap stuff. i am thinking to block them off:
#1
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1935mod.jpg
#2
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1937mod.jpg

Any help with those would be appreciated.


Word to the wise: don't accidentally dip your hair in gear oil that split out of the trans when getting your motor into the engine bay. I've washed my hair about 7 times and it still stinks

Also he S14 power steering rack nozzle has a 3/8 output on my car. but i did notice that the R33 had 2 different size metal hoses, you were probably talking about using the small one.


But for anyone that wants to hook directly up to the S14 rack nozzle, don't be like me and get a ride to the parts store only to return and find that you need bigger hose.


3-25
Busy day at the shop today

I got the engine in. Had to pry bar the tunnel (do yourself a favor and hammer it back while the engine is out) around the starter housing, move a few hoses around, and move this vent thing:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1940.jpg

also you have to take off the igniter, and use a jack to lift the trans while sliding it in and you can get it in with all the pullies on. That and it worked best to mount the motor mounts to the engine and not to the x-member.

Then I had to pry to get the trans mounts to line up, but they did. Drive shaft fits perfectly.

Here’s how it sits with the Syko mounts:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1941.jpg

Also when I put the engine in I left the shifter on (the stick) and it fit fine.

on the down side when I was messing with getting the engine in i notices that the hose that goes into the steering rack got flattened out (see pic above hose in middle goes out, now it is flat) so I am going to have to bend and hope on that next time i am working.

the turbo outlet/down pipe is a BITCH!!!! Syko kit provides 2 bolts (cause the stock won't fit) for the sides, and I am here to say that those 2 side bolts are horrible. they are 12 sided, so a 11mm open or a 10mm closed wretch. but there is no clearance on the upper one so I took the open 11 and had to put it parallel to the ground coming out of the bolt and twist by turning my fingers. my had was cramped to hell by the time I was done. EDIT ATTACH DOWNPIPE BEFORE INSTALL TIP COMES FROM SYKO and the proper tool is a standard 12pt 10mm wretch.

Also hooked up fuel lines, they are 5/16 and i found out that the factory fuel filter holder will hold a 300zx fuel filter without breaking a sweat. I just bent it out a bit and the filter popped right on and is held securely.

Lastly here is mount solution to the throttle cable issue. I read on how Henry did it, and I was looking at my bent to hell stock bracket and thought that by the time I finished straightening that one and doing the mod I could have built my own. So I checked for clearance and went to cutting on a block off from my auto trans and 30 min later I had this:

No throttle
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1942.jpg
WOT with no clearance issues:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1943.jpg

Later I will worked on the angles some more and also securing the throttle cable to things, but I have a metric shit-ton of stuff laying around from the KA so I am not worried.

that was my day from about 11-4



3-28
Mellow- for cooling i am sporting 2 10” HP perm cool fans---- got too good a deal on them to pass up plus between them both should push 2500cfm (http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html)
*******THEY DO NOT WORK, GET FAL DUAL 12 PUSHERS*******

Today I wasn't paying attention to the time and only got like 2 hours of work in.

The List:
-Drained trans/cleaned plug
-Filled trans back up 3 bottles Royal purple
-connected clutch line
-filled/bled clutch
-made big power steering line fit that bolts into PS pump
-Found out that the small line has to be replaced, but it's not high pressure so should be no problem

Getting vacuum diagram from Gary (thanks) so the mystery of the lines will be solved.

3-29
New stuff:

The mounts**** EDIT, you do not need the heat shielding with the SYKO mounts!****:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1947.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1946.jpg

Got the heater hoses connected today. They were a bitch.

here are actuator and mysterio hoses that i was wondering about before:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1950.jpg

and after:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1951.jpg
Yes I realize that it is wrong. I just realized tonight that the hybrid FMIC kit uses 1 or the stock pipes with a nipple on it so i am going to hook that up to the pipe rather than where it is right now and block off that small hose pictured.

The other 2 hoses blocked off and unbolted:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1956.jpg

My handy dandy reverses Power steering line:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1945.jpg

Also for the big power steering reservoir return line I bought 1.5 feet of 5/8in hose and used that to connect it, perfect fit.

Now I am fumbling through the wiring, but Gary is willing to work with me on it so I am not quite so confused so. problem is that I had an OBD II and have never disconnected the wiring on a RB before so it is really hit and miss on me finding where all the stuff goes since I have about 10-15 extra OBDII plugs that I don't use now. But when I run into something rather difficult I will include it here.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1948.jpg

It is the fuel pressure dampener, helps to cut pulsations in the fuel lines, and Not totally necessary.


3-30
Another day at work! Got all the wiring installed today. It was really easy thanks to Gary. thanks!

I am working on some pics to show you where some of the harder stuff was at.

I never took the harness off the car, but I was able to put everything back on. Here are the 3 hard wires to get:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/RBside.jpg
the two green ones are knock sensors that are round and have 1 prong on them. the green is where a blue plug goes onto. that one i never would have found without Gary telling me about it. still to come where the wiring goes.

But then I went to the intercooler piping. Now this stuff is a biatch.
The kit is the Hybrid kit for the R33 RB with S14 mounts. And boy is it interesting! Here is me trying to fit it:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1964.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1965.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1966.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1967.jpg
and me denting it trying to bend it:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1969.jpg

It does not like me at all right now for as far as i can tell this fits my car as well as it would fit a F250.

So I said screw it and went to the other pipe to see if it was a bit more cooperative.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1968.jpg
things looked good!
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1970.jpg
And it worked!!!
Next issue is that damn power steering hose. I am going to have to find another way to mount it. Looks like I am going to have to get all sneaky sneaky with it to get it to fit.

not too bad, about 4 hours today.

3-31
OK once again I forgot my camera. I think I am going crazy. All I have to say today is that I worked on my IC piping and mounting from 3pm-730pm and that i would rather gouge my eyes out with a spoon than buy a hybrid piping kit again. NOTHING and i repeat nothing fits like it is supposed to. allot of hacking and hole sawing later i have the piping 1/2 way working, but it still needs to be cut more. And 1/6 mounts might fit. That is right the only 2 mounts that 1/2 way work are directional and they sent me 2 lefts. BOO HYBRID!!!!

4-1
OK I remembered my camera today...... but forgot to get the battery out of the charger.

So I finally got the radiator hoses after running around all day I ended up with this:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1971.jpg
And at $70/hose I feel like I just raped by all 3 pep boys.

Both of these are the 2 foot length. pics later on what I did wit them.
Also hybrid kit I found out that 0/6 mounts work. I had to hack the mounts to make so the headlights could sit in there, more on that later also.

What I did today:
Mounted electric fans
Hooked up Inter cooler top mounts
Hooked up and re sized all inter cooler piping to work
Made inter cooler upper mounts work
Found, sized and installed radiator hoses and temp sensor

Left to do tomorrow:
Make and attach lower IC brackets
Re-connect all rear battery wiring/power distribution blocks
Attach intake
Change oil
Start engine to make sure it is all good
Assemble car and drive away.

Oh yes........................... i should be done tomorrow and it's about damn time.




4-4
IT'S ALIVE AND RUNNING!!!!!
So I am driving it around today. One thing that took me awhile to figure out is the screw to bleed the coolant system. Here it is circled in yellow:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/coolant.jpg
Basically took a funnel and shoved it in the radiator when cold, then poured coolant in it until the hole that the screw was in had coolant coming out without bubbling.

As far as the ride height goes, I will have pics soon, but it used to have a 2.5 finger gap on the front wheels, now it is a 2 finger gap. And that is with tokiko blues and RSR TI2000 springs.

PICS:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1986.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1985.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1984.jpg



Also as mentioned by everyone else the strut brace won't fit because it hits the throttle assembly. Also my ARC induction box is a no go cause of it being too big. So invest in a pop or cone filter.
Yeah my Origin front bumper is going on vary soon. Also i broke a hose clamp on the IC tonight, or course it had to be pouring when it happened, but luckily i had a spare radiator hose type clamp. I think I will be switching all my clamps over to that type.

Just to re confirm it, I broke a screw on the hybrid clamp kit with stock RB boost.

Once again, that kit is not the best... you save money, and with a lot of effort it can be made to fit, at least i didn’t have to weld anything.



Some loose change I am still working on:
Correct temp sender
Trim the auto brake pedal slotting the holes in the KA ECU holder so the ECU will fit
Eventually hook my SAFC back up
Type R BOV
Trading my ARC intake box for a filter that will fit


4-8OK I went to NAPA and CARQUEST and they list one generic sender that is for all Nissans 93-99..... Which is wrong? After a lot of head ache I tracked it down to AutoZone as a water temp switch that is a Wells TU222 that is the one for a S14 stock gauge. Learn from my headache. Also the brand new Napa thermostat isn't opening at the correct temp. It is opening at about 208 instead of 170 so I would also suggest the NISMO low temp unit (Part number 21200-RS580) cause now I already paid 90 for a coolant flush to find this out and i will have to drain and replace the coolant while the motor is in the car. This will suck.

Fuel pumps being switched out (hopefully) Sunday.


And don't forget to change the oil filter, in my rush I forgot. It’s the same oil filter as a 300Z or S14 240sx. so look for both those when you cross reference it.

Any other little things jump up as possible problems I will address it as i go along.

4-9
I Installed the Walbro fuel pump today. Yes the one that broke because I ordered a second one and that one was broke too in the exact same spot. so JB weld to the rescue, let it cure for over 15 hours and tossed it in today.****EDIT DO NOT DO THAT< IT DOESN"T WORK GET A NON BROKE WORKING ONE***** It noticeably pulls harder at higher RPMs than it did before. of course I only pulled higher a couple of times before cause of fear of blowing the fuel pump. but now the only thing I really have left is the lot temp thermostat that i will be ordering Monday.

On a side note, my front tires now kind of squeal, but I am taking in for an alignment on Monday also so hopefully that will go away.

4-10
Here’s a pic for you (Nismo 21200-RS580):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2002.jpg

I'll add how it was to change the thermo with the engine in the car after I am done. It’s only a 2/ 10 difficulty, but i will see.

4-12
What I went through to find out that my fans weren't pulling enough air:
My cooling system is turning into a 1500 ordeal.

OK realistic break down
Fans 60
Water pump 125
Radiator hoses 150
Radiator 310
Coolant flushes 95
Nismo thermo 55
Reg thermo 20
Bad sender 20
Good sender 17
New FAL fans 230
Fluid 10


Total so far: $1092

(not to mention that the Koyo and the fans are the second set i have bought so on new rad#2 and fans#3)
And I am going to switch over to water wetter, plus that doesn't include shop fees involved with messing around with the damn thing or the time I have spent on it. Then the only thin I will have left to change out is the radiator. (Or remove the FMIC maybe that is blocking too much air).

Well good news, since I moved the fans off the AC condenser and put them onto the radiator, I got it lasered today and it was @178deg at idle after driving it around for 30 min or so stop and go in the heat of the day. I think that the AC condenser was blocking too much air. Not I will put the cooling panel back on and see it that makes any difference.
took the cooling panel off because the fans have to suck air from somewhere, and since the intercooler is so big it is blocking allot of air.... but mainly cause I was running out of things to change up to get it cooler. And I didn’t mount it on the radiator to begin with because I like, and plan on keeping my AC if at all possible. When I get the FALs in i will see if I can put them on top of the condenser and hook that back up but there is only one way to find out if it will work, which is waiting for someone on Zilvia to find out the hard way and learn from their mistakes if they write it up.


Also just a thought on driving the car, the alignment was WAY off, so I got that fixed and it handles just like it did before the swap, witch is to say great. Only thing is that the RB seems to detest low speeds, I drive it NA most of the time and only am getting about 200miles to the tank (12-14MPG) I have heard that it should get a lot better than that, but I will update this as it progresses and gets the bugs worked out of it. I have went through 2 tanks so far, but it is just now coming out of the project stage (bought air filter today) ... oh and that low speeds thing, at under about 8or so MPH in 1st, and at the low ends of every gear it is a bit jerky, kind of like the clutch is engaging and disengage but i don't think that is the case since as soon as I give it gas it takes off with the quickness EDIT WAS THE FUEL PUMP BREAKING< THE ENGINE WAS GOOD AND THIS IS NOT THE CASE.. Once I get above parking lot cruising speeds it wants to go like it's cool. After riding in a friends SR a while back, the feeling of waiting and then the boost hits, isn't there, it is go go go go go..(Sound of turbo spooling up like a jet engine).boost and then you're really kicked back in the seat.

I think that the turbo noise is louder than the BOV, and that is loud too. but all in all this is a very civil engine when cruising around town. I pretty much stay off the boost and drive just as fast as my KA around town, but when I need the power! It's always hungrily waiting on tap to be let loose.

I really would like to see this engine at my goal of 300-350WHP, cause it is quick now.

And that's a night.
And these are for everyone who is thinking why I didn’t just hook the fans up as pullers:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2008.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2009.jpg

4-24
Well I have been fighting problems for a while, but needless to say I have switched out 4 fuel pumps in 4 weeks so I deserve some sort of frequent flyer miles or some shit. At least a secured decoder rings if nothing else. Total count:
2 broke Walbro HP pumps
2 fine S14 pumps, one accidentally chucked
1 nice new Walbro HP pump currently installed.

And I will see what happens from here.

For reference faulty fuel pumps cause an ass load of strange problems to include:
No torque
Turbo spools but no acceleration
Acceleration and no turbo spooling
Decreased blow off
Sputtering/stalling
Air in fuel lines
Almost like a vacuum leak sort or problems, I know it's a bitch to get to the fuel pump, but it makes a good place to start troubleshooting the fuel system.

That is the write-up on the install. hope everyone enjoys it and learns from my mistakes. FYI that engine probably tossed a rod or something. Something was rattling around inside and cyl 5 was at 0 PSI. Now I have a new car and may end up with another RB.

[S14DB]

1-888-carb-snitch

[theicecreamdan]

he has out of state plates, so he's pretty safe here.

[Tenchuu]

RB sitting next to my car, 1/2 of Drift Freaq's install kit in the car, waiting on the new redesighned motor mounts.
ended up with a series 1 RB25DET with 30194 KM on it, witch = 18,761.68 miles

also ended up haveing dave source it for me through kouki_s14's (uncle?) importer. Pics to come soon

here is cliffs on water pump replacement/timing belt replacement

Ok since i am doing this already and haven't found allot of good write ups here it is as i do it. This is a Series 1 RB25DET. I did this cause my water pump was bent so here it is:

Remove water pump pulley:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1893.jpg

remove the CAS too that is held on by the obvious 3 bolts too

Remove bolt that holds on main pulley (it's a 27):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1910.jpg

Use pulley puller to take the pulley out:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1917.jpg

Remove all small bolts the holes are circled in red (they are T5):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/frontscrews.jpg

take off this little guard:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1920.jpg

MARK the timing belt in all 3 places. mark the gears and the belt so you can line them up later I labeled mine Rt, LT, and B (for bottom):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/timeingmarks.jpg

Now remove the timing belt tensioners:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1921.jpg
and the back of the other one:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1922.jpg

now the 12 bolts that hold on the water pump (you can see them in the pics above)

and you should be left with something like this, if not cleaner hopefully:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1923.jpg

Thermostat:

unbolt the Oil dip stick and bend down slightly, Bent the metal hose CAREFULLY that is by the bottom left screw, unbolt:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1908.jpg


install: make sure the little jiggle valve on the thermostat is facing up, put a good bead of RTV on both the inside and the outside lip of the thermostat, place back in the hole and tighten down bolts (16-23 N/M). done and done.

OK well i kinda owned myself by forgetting the camera when i put this back on. and for torque specs and bolt order i used a RB25DET.org writeup here (i take no credit):
Water Pump Replacement

Removal

1. Remove radiator
2. Remove belts
3. Remove water pump pulley
4. Remove timing belt
5. remove tensioner pulley
6. remove idler pulley
7. remove alternator adjustment bar
8. Remove bolts in order shown
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp4.jpg
Installation

1. Apply sealant (Nissan RTV)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp1.jpg
2. Tighten bolts in the order shown below
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp3.jpg
3. Tighten bolts 8and 9 together with the alternator bar

4. Tighten bolts to specs (FT/LBS)

M6 = 4.6-6.1

M8 = 11.8-15.5

M10 = 23.2-31.1
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp2.jpg



now to put it back on, i lined up all the marks on the belt and the gears so it was back in place. Next i installed the idler pulley and torqued to 43-58 (N-M) (the idler is the one on the rt if you are in front of the engine)
Then it was time for the tensioner. you need a hex wrentch to get this thing to go on.
so i made sure that the spring on the back was seated good in it's slot. then made sure that the nut on the end went

(nut)---->( shaped washer---->l shaped washer--->pulley---->bolt


then after i had all that in and i used the hex wrench to turn it so i had clearance to get the belt on. i ended up takeing the belt off the bottom pulley, looping it around the tensioners, then sliding it back onto the bottom gears and le tit go. Now i torqued that nut down to .43-58 (N-M) also. then it was a matter of putting on everything the same way it came off (block off plate, then front shielding, then bottom pulley, then upper plate and lastly the CAS and water pump pulley.)

I will let everyone know if this works once i start it up and see. i hope it does and will find out soon.

Runs fine it works, all is well good info.

[Neejay]

Nice, nice. Definitely keep us posted.

[Tenchuu]

so i went to uplaod the pics from today to photobucket and my memory card decided that it diddn't want to store any of the pics. so it will be torrarow with the pics i guess.

happened today:
front bumper removed
center panel removed
auto shifter mechanism removed
all fluids besides brake and power steering removed
air intake remover
lower engine harness removed
fan/fan shroud removed
radiator removed
stared at OK looking wemen
called around trying to get people to show up that said they would.... no dice
broke a creeper
car on jack stands
watched a guy pull a V6 out of a firebird in a little over 2 hours while i was stilll working on shit
took pics that diddn't work

and lastley found out that the Water pump face on the Rb is bent, so it looks like i will have to get a new water pump, or use that one and risk that the wobble in the bracket isn't enuff to throw the alternator/water pump belt. What do you guys think?

[MELLO*SOS]

I'd replace the pump, thermostat and timing belt regardless. But it sounds like you're dropping it in true OEM form, no upgrades or maint?

Better luck with the pictures :(

[Tenchuu]

well the thing started out with a couple of guys i know heliping, thermostat is getting checked/replaced, all the outside belts are getting replaced, i debated the timeing belt, but decided against out the door, all the pumps and timeing where supposed to be down the road a bit (read once sammer boy returns the other 6000 he owes me) so i was trying to top this swap out around $5000 and 2-3 weeks instead of 7-8000 and 2 months witch i don't have before i move.

[Tenchuu]

Vid up

http://youtube.com/watch?v=n66jx7-let0

vid

[Tenchuu]

Today:
morning
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1895.jpg


Afternoon:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1900.jpg


Out with the old
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1903.jpg


Soon to be in with the new:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1892.jpg


Clean way to drain the PS pump:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1899.jpg



And lastley you can see where the pulley has been rubbing on the bent water pump:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1901.jpg

that's it for today. I think that once i get the water pump i will be making a RB water pump replacement FAQ with pics for future use.

[drift freaq]

looking good tenchuu, looks like stuff is going to move quickly next weekend.

[Tenchuu]

Yeah i would love to have this done by next monday....

[SimpleSexy180]

nice! <3 cant wait to see more progress.

[Neejay]

That engine looks clean/good man. Good job.

[RSP13-Sideways]

Nice work, hahaha your video is funny man. You're over there filming your bent water pump pulley when you should be installing a new one hahaa...

Great stuff though man, looking good Marine!

[ThatGuy]

Somebody trade me a RB26 for a pair of KA's. I wanna get in on the swapping fun. :D

[NemeGuero]

I'll take your exhaust cam, Barry!!

;)

Looks good Tenchuu. Wish I were local to help.
Haha, and yah, that video is funny.

[Tenchuu]

X-member in :
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1907.jpg
be sure to use a prybar and jack to get the LCA's in

Cali lift:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1906.jpg


RB intimate pic:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1918.jpg


This is going to get flushed out:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1923.jpg

[Tenchuu]

and makeing a tch thread for the RB shit I am doing:
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=104433

[NemeGuero]

Go tenchuu!! its' your birthday!

[Tenchuu]

Got the new motor mounts from Drift freaq/syko performance:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1934.jpg

[!Zar!]

You are living one of my many dreams. Good luck with the swap.

[Tenchuu]

so the engine is almost in. i had to remove the ignitor to get it in, and the brass looking tube that cones off the brake booster to get the engine past the lip and into the bay.

i spent a little over an hour and maned to get 1 motor mount to line up. tommarow will be another one.

as you can see i said hell with it and used the stock Power steering loop highly modified until the time where i buy a trans coolet to use for the P/S


also to Drift freaq you might want to include the fact that the power steerign hose needs to be 3/8 hose not 5/16 hose like it states in your install to fit on the rack.

ready to install bay:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1938.jpg

and the sway bar spacers:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1939.jpg

Also i am looking for help on what to do with these 2 lines that wer attached to the KA and i gots no clue. right now i am thinking to block them off:
#1
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1935mod.jpg
#2
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1937mod.jpg

any help with those would be appreciated.


word to the wise: don't accidently dip your hair in gear oil that spilt out of the trans when getting your motor into the engine bay. i've washed my hair about 7 times and it still stinks

[S14DB]

Evap purge system.
Get rid of the black box too.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/EVAPgone.jpg

[NemeGuero]

Have you removed the whole line, AJ? What went where that picture is?

[Tenchuu]

so i take it both 1 and 2 are trash and i should just off them and it really doesn't matter if i plug them or leave them open.

[S14DB]

Possible that the gas tank may explode if the evap can is left on. I would remove it.

The Map/Baro should be a part of the KA harness. Which I don't understand why you didn't remove it.

[drift freaq]

so the engine is almost in. i had to remove the ignitor to get it in, and the brass looking tube that cones off the brake booster to get the engine past the lip and into the bay.

i spent a little over an hour and maned to get 1 motor mount to line up. tommarow will be another one.

as you can see i said hell with it and used the stock Power steering loop highly modified until the time where i buy a trans coolet to use for the P/S


also to Drift freaq you might want to include the fact that the power steerign hose needs to be 3/8 hose not 5/16 hose like it states in your install to fit on the rack.

ready to install bay:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1938.jpg

and the sway bar spacers:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1939.jpg



Ken, the right hose might have been on your clip and fell off in the transfer. when the clip was trucked down to you. Usually you use the power steering hoses from the R33 clip or motorset not the s14 ones. hence,why you have that difference.

[Ritz S14]

Possible that the gas tank may explode if the evap can is left on. I would remove it.

The Map/Baro should be a part of the KA harness. Which I don't understand why you didn't remove it.


Gas tank explode if you leave the evap on? that's pretty unlikely. I'd say it's more of a possibliity if you were to remove the evap system, and not plug the gas tank.

[Tenchuu]

cool, i was just letting you know that the S14 power steering rack nozzle has a 3/8 output on my car. but i did notice that the R33 had 2 different size metal hoses, you were probibly talking about useing the small one.


but for anyone that wants to hook diectly up to the S14 rack nozzel, don't be like me and get a ride to the parst store only to return and find that you need biger hose.

[snatch13]

damn looks good! its sooo purdy!

[theicecreamdan]

too bad that KA is going to a pinked member

:-P

[Tenchuu]

Busy day at the shop today

I got the engine in. Had to pry bar the tunnell ( do yourself a favor and hammer it back while the eigine is out) around the starter houseing, move a few hoses around, and move this vent thing:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1940.jpg

also you have to take off the ignitor, and use a jack to lift the trans while slideing it in and you can get it in with all the pullies on. that and it worked best to mount the motor mounts to the engine and not to the x-member.

then i had to pry to get the trans mounts to line up, but they did. driveshaft fits perfectly.

here's how it sits with the Syko mounts:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1941.jpg

also when i put the engine in i left the shifter on (the stick) and it fit fine.

on the down side when i was messing with getting the engine in i notices that the hose that goes into the steering rack got flattened out (see pic above hose in middle goes out, now it is flat) so i am going to have to bend and hope on that next time i am working.

the turob outlet/downpipe is a BITCH!!!! syko kit provides 2 bolts (cause the stock won't fit) for the sides, and i am here to say that those 2 side bolts are horrible. they are 12 sided, so a 11mm open or a 10mm closed wrentch. but there is no clearance on the upper one so i took the open 11 and had to put it paralell to the ground comeing out of the bolt and twist by turning my fingers. my had was cramped to hell by the time i was done.

also hooked up fuel lines, they are 5/16 and i found out that the factory fuel filter holder will hold a 300zx fuel filter without breaking a sweat. i just bent it out a bit and the filter popped right on and is held securily.

Lastly here is mt solution to the throttle cable issue. i read on on how henery did it, and i was looking at my bent to hell stock bracket and thought that by the time i finished straightening that one and doing the mod i could have built my own. so i checked for clearance and went to cutting on a block off from my auto trans and 30 min later i had this:

no throttle
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1942.jpg
WOT with no clearance issues:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1943.jpg

late i will work on the angles some more and also secureing the throttle cable to things, but i have a metric shit-ton of stuff laying around from the KA so i am not worried.

that was my day from about 11-4

[drift freaq]

the turob outlet/downpipe is a BITCH!!!! syko kit provides 2 bolts (cause the stock won't fit) for the sides, and i am here to say that those 2 side bolts are horrible. they are 12 sided, so a 11mm open or a 10mm closed wrentch. but there is no clearance on the upper one so i took the open 11 and had to put it paralell to the ground comeing out of the bolt and twist by turning my fingers. my had was cramped to hell by the time i was done.


hahahha, Ken, you should have put the downpipe on before dropping the engine in. Also, you are correct those side bolts are there for clearance issues. With the proper wrench they should not be a problem. All in all you got it done and thats what counts.
P.S. I talked to Syko about it and the proper tool is a standard 12 point 10 mm box end wrench. That is the wrench that should be used.

[anyotherone]

Good stuff... I'm getting ready to drop my RB into my S14 very soon, so I appreciate any threads I can find like this one that help my know what to expect.

[MELLO*SOS]

Tenchuu, looks good man. What are you doing for cooling fans? Are you planning to keep AC?

[Tenchuu]

mellow- for cooling i am sporting 2 10" HP permacool fans---- got too good a deal on them to pass up plus between them both should push 2500cfm (http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html)

Today i wasn't paying attention to the time and only got like 2 hours of work in.

the list:
-Drained trans/cleaned plug
-Filled trans back up 3 bottles Royal purple
-connected clutch line
-filled/bled clutch
-made Big power steering line fit that bolts into PS pump
-Found out that the small line has to be replaced, but it's not high pressure so should be no problem

Getting vaccume diagram from Gary (thanks) so the mystery of the lines will be solved.

[Tenchuu]

New stuff:

the mounts:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1947.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1946.jpg

Got the heater hoses connected today. they were a bitch.

here are accuator and mysterio hoses that i was wondering about before:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1950.jpg

and after:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1951.jpg
Yes i realive that it is wrong. i just realized tonight that the hybrid FMIC kit uses 1 or the stock pipes with a nipple on it so i am going to hook that up to the pipe rather than where it is right now and block off that small hose pictured.

the other 2 hoses blocked off and unbolted:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1956.jpg

My handy dandy reverse Power steering line:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1945.jpg

also for the big power steering resivour return line i bought 1.5 feet of 5/8in hose and used that to connect it. perfect fit.

now i am fumbeling through the wireing, but Gary is willing to work with me on it so i am not quite so confused so. problem is that i had an OBd II and have never disconected the wireing on a RB before so it is really hit and miss on me finding where all the stuff goes since i have about 10-15 extra OBDII plugs that i don't use now. but when i run into something rather difficult i will include it here.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1948.jpg

it is the fuel pressure dampener, helps to cut pulsations in the fuel lines, and Not totally necessary.



On a seperate note, since this has turned from me randomly talking about gettting stuff into a 1/2 writeup do you guys think it should be moved to the tech section for the general population to have too? I was kinda thinking that.

[Tenchuu]

Yes zilvia another RB writeup, hopefully this will help out some other members, that's why it just kinda showed up here being moved from premie land

[Tenchuu]

another day at working. got all the wireing installed today. it was really easy thanks to Gary. thanks!

i am woking on some pics to show you where some of the harder stuff was at.

I never took the aareness off the car, but i was able to put everything back on. here are the 3 hard wires to get:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/RBside.jpg
the two green ones are knock sensors that are round and have 1 preng on them. the green is where a ble puug goes onto. that one i never would have fouind without Gary telling me about it. still to come where the wireing goes.

but then i went to the intercooler pipeing. now this stuff is a bieatch.
the kit is the Hybrid kit for the R33 RB sith S14 mounts. and boy is it interesting here is me trying to fit it:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1964.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1965.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1966.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1967.jpg
and me denting it trying to bend it:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1969.jpg

it's not likeing me at all righ now for as far as i can tell this fits my car as well as it would fit a F250.

so i said screw it and went to the other pipe to see if it was a bit more cooperative.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1968.jpg
things looked good!
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1970.jpg
and it worked!!!
next issue is that damn power steering hose. i am going to have to find another way to mount it. looks like i am going to have to get all sneaky sneaky with it to get it to fit.

not too bad, about 4 hours today.

[Siizzzoooo]

good stuff man! I love these kinds of hands on threads

keep us updated

[SYKORB26]

Hey Tenchuu,
Your swap is looking great. I'm curious to see how the Hybrid intercooler kit will work with our mounts.

Just one small thing that I noticed. From your picture, it looks like you transfered the old RB heat shield onto the left (driver's side) motor mount. Our mounts were designed to not need the heat shield. By using it , you run the risk of transfering some engine vibration through the shield as it may contact the outer aluminum housing surrounding the motor mount. As for heat, this same outer aluminum housing serves as an integrated heat shield to protect the urethane. Because the shield is already on there, you can leave it for now. If it rattles or causes vibrations, either remove it or try bending it away from the aluminum housing which surrounds the mount. Good luck with the rest of your swap. Let us know if you need any further assistance.
-Gary Narusawa
www.sykoperformance.com

[Tenchuu]

i did not know that. ahh well one way to find out how it will work. hopefully by sunday i will drive it out of the shop. yay for 2 week turnaround. and that is with the water pump replacement and waiting on parts too. i think i'm doing well for the first time. not great, but decent.

[MELLO*SOS]

Wow looks like fun putting in the fmic piping

out of curiosity, what is the metal/blue box in the lower left quadrant of this pic (two black wires coming out of it)?
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1965.jpg

[Ritz S14]

^^ HID Ballest.

[NemeGuero]

Everything appears kinda tight in there. But damn, man... get that RB up and purring!

[Tenchuu]

Wow looks like fun putting in the fmic piping

out of curiosity, what is the metal/blue box in the lower left quadrant of this pic (two black wires coming out of it)?
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1965.jpg

yep that is the HID ballest

[Tenchuu]

OK once again i forgot my camera. i think i am going crazy. all i have to say today is that i worked on my IC pipeing and mounting from 3pm-730pm and that i would rather gouge my eyes out with a spoon than buy a hybrid pipeing kit again. NOTHING and i repeat nothing fits like it is supposed to. alot of hacking and hole sawing later i have the pipeing 1/2 way working, but it still needs to be cut more. and 1/6 mounts might fit. that is right the only 2 mounts that 1/2 way work are directional and they sent me 2 lefts. BOO HYBRID!!!!

[kouki_s14]

i had a feeling that was gonna happen since the kit was based on the R33 chassis, just with different mounting brackets. not to mention the motor sits differently in a S14 then a skyline.
sorry to hear that, but hope it turns out well
good luck on the rest

henry

[Tenchuu]

OK I remembered my camera today...... but forgot to get the battery out of the charger.

so i finally got the radiator hoses after running around all day i ended up with this:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1971.jpg
and at $70/hose i feel like i just raped by all 3 pep boys.

Both of these are the 2 foot length. pics later on what i did wit them.
Also hybrid kit i found out that 0/6 mounts work. i had to hack the mounts to make so the headlights could sit in there.but more on that later also.

What i did today:
mounted electric fans
hooked up Inter cooler top mounts
Hooked up and re sized all intercooler pipeing to work
Made interecooler upper mounts work
Found, sized and installed radiator hoses and temp sensor

left to do tommarow:
make and attatch lower IC brackets
re-connect all rear battery wireing/power distribution blocks
attatch intake
change oil
start engine to make sure it is all good
assemble car and drive away.

oh yes........................... i should be done tommarow and it's about damn time.

[Tenchuu]

SUCESS!!!!!! the motor starts and runs. too bad i have to leave it in the shop for a while longer. and i brought my camera!!

First off her is the final pipeing end results:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1974.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1975.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1980.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1981.jpg


I ended up cutting about an intch off the end of the top pipe where it connects to the factory intake) to get it to sit like this and not directly on top of the radiator:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1976.jpg

and yes i do have to pullup on the IC pipe to get the rad cap off.

end result:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1977.jpg

Here are those expensive ass hoses i told you about in action:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1979.jpg

For referance the shifter:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1982.jpg

and this is how i left my car today in the shop. i really wanted to take it home but no can do:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1983.jpg

[Tenchuu]

also is anyone likeing this info? need more? or am i just talking to myself?

[NemeGuero]

I love the info... keep it up

[Neejay]

also is anyone likeing this info? need more? or am i just talking to myself?
I subscribed a looong time ago :) Good job.

A question I've always wondered: Why isn't it dangerous to just have a mesh/net on the MAF instead of a filter? I've seen it numerous times, but never understood it. Is that just for like track days, or is it safe to have it like that all the time? (I know it'll help more flow to the turbo)

[Tenchuu]

well i know that living in Oregon it rains, and a filter keeps out some of that rain. but right now i have no filter. anyone in San diego that wants to trade a pop filter or a cone filter for an ARC intake bax tommarow i need one.

[kingmoochr]

I subscribed a looong time ago :) Good job.

A question I've always wondered: Why isn't it dangerous to just have a mesh/net on the MAF instead of a filter? I've seen it numerous times, but never understood it. Is that just for like track days, or is it safe to have it like that all the time? (I know it'll help more flow to the turbo)
the larger the holes on your filter, the larger the particles that can enter the system. it is not safe to just run a mesh piece as a filter, especially on a street car. people do it at the track because theres is generally less debris, and its usually a dedicated race car. or they just dont care about screwing it up by sucking in someting that shouldnt have been sucked in.

[Tenchuu]

IT'S ALIVE AND RUNNING!!!!!
so i am driveing it around today. one thing that took me awhile to figure out is the screw to bleed the coolent system. here it is circled in yellow:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/coolant.jpg
basically took a funnel and shoved it in the radiator when cold, then poured cooland in it until the hole that the screw was in had coolent comeing out without bubbeling.

as fas as the ried height goes, i will have pics soon, but it used to have a 2.5 finger gap on the front wheels, now it is a 2 finger gap. and that is with tokiko blues and RSR TI2000 springs.

PICS:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1986.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1985.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1984.jpg



also as mentioned by everyone else the strut brace won't fit cause it hits the throttle assembley. also my ARC induction box is a no go cause of it being too big. so invest in a pop or cone filter.

[NemeGuero]

Holy shit that intercooler hangs down there, don't it!?

[Tenchuu]

Yeah my Origion front bumper is going on veary soon. also i broke a hose clamp on the IC tonight, or course it had to be pouring when it happened, but luckley i had a spare radiator hose type clamp. I think i will be switching all my clamps over to that type.

just to re comfirm it, I broke a screw on the hybrid clamp kit with stock RB boost.

once again, that kit is not the best... you save money, and with alot of effort it can be made to fit, at least i diddn't have to weld anything.



Some loose change i am still woking on:
correct temp sender
trim the auto brake pedalslotting the holes in the KA ECU holder so the ECU will fit
eventually hook my SAFC back up
Type R BOV
tradeing my ARC intake box for a filter that will fit (i have no air filter as of now yeah i know i should have one but the guy that i was supposed to bet one from tonight bailed.)

[kouki_s14]

that's about how low my IC sits too, but my front lip covers the lower portion.
about the temp sender, take the one from your KA, it helps your gauge inside the car read more accuratly

henry

[OdessaS13]

with that FMIC hangin out you should be really considering security(if you dont already have any) with all the shit thats been goin on recently, very clean swap btw

[Tenchuu]

Henery- I think Napa doesn't have a clue what sender goes in the KA, but i am working on getting the old one off of my motor still.

Odessas13- I am in the works on some security issues, nothing i will mention, but diabolically clever none the less.

[Tenchuu]

OK i went to NAPA and carquest and they list one gereric sender that is for all nissans 93-99 ..... witch is wrong. after alot of headacher i tracked it down to autozone as a water temp switch that is a Wells TU222 that is the one for a S14 stock guage. learn from my headache. Also the brand new napa thermostat isn't openign at the correct temp. it is opening at about 208 instead of 170 so i would also suggest the NISMO low temp unit (Part number 21200-RS580) cause now i already paid 90 for a coolent flush to find this out and i will have to drain and replace the coolant while the motor is in the car. witch will suck.

Fuel pump being switched out (hopefully) sunday.


and don't forget to change the oil filter, in my rush i forgot. it's the same oil filter as a 300Z or S14 240sx. so look for both those when you cross referance it.

any other little things jump up as possible problems I will address it as i go along.

[S14DB]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Oil/OEMapps.jpg

[Tenchuu]

installed the walbro fuel pump today. Yes the one that broke because i orderd a second one and that one was broke too in the exact same spot. so JB weld to the rescue, let it cure for over 15 hours and tossed it in today. It noticibly pulls harder at higher RPMs than it did before. of course i only pulled higher a couple of times before cause of fear of blowing the fuel pump. but now the only thing i really have left is the lot temp thermostat that i will be ordering monday.

on a side note, my front tires now kinda squeal, but i am taking in in for an alighnment on monday also so hopefully that will go away.

[Neejay]

So everything is ok now? Like, you can daily drive it now?

[Tenchuu]

I have been driveing it for a few days now. last 3 things i have to do on it:

get a damn air filter
feplace napa 208deg thermostat with nismo 169deg thermostat
get a front end alighnment

after those 3 things i should be back to completely reliable status. if i get them done this week i will be takeing a trip up to grover beatch with it this weekend. of course i will be packing tools also though.:x:

[NemeGuero]

Video!! Sound clips?! Something?!

[Neejay]

I have been driveing it for a few days now. last 3 things i have to do on it:

get a damn air filter
feplace napa 208deg thermostat with nismo 169deg thermostat
get a front end alighnment

after those 3 things i should be back to completely reliable status. if i get them done this week i will be takeing a trip up to grover beatch with it this weekend. of course i will be packing tools also though.:x:
Niiiice. Man I wish I could swap...or just get my car up and on the road...:-/

[Tenchuu]

Video!! Sound clips?! Something?!


I'll see what i can do for a vid today after work

[NemeGuero]

LIES! You aren't going to work! ;) hehe

[Tenchuu]

LIES! You aren't going to work! ;) hehe
true, but no one is ther to hold the camera since THEY are all at work.

and here's a pic for you (Nismo 21200-RS580):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2002.jpg

I'll add how it was to change the thermo with the engine in the car after i am done. i hope it's ouly a 3-5 / 10 difficulty, but i will see.

[Tenchuu]

Good news thermostat replacement is about a 2/10 difficulty, now i will wait for it to settle a bit and take it for a drive.

after talking around the gerneral consinsus was to let the gasket material set for 1 hr, witch i did, then got it running and had to torque down the bolts some more. but all looks fine i will take it out for a drive and see later.

[kouki_s14]

i got nissan OEM filters, for some reason the RB one is very small compared to the KA one. the box does not say it is interchangable with the KA, mainly other RBs. maybe it has something to do with a pressure thing, but i am gonna trust the guys that make the motor when they tell me what filter to use.
cheaper than most places too, if you buy more than 3 its $3.50 each

henry

[Tenchuu]

I got the filter info off racebread, it is on thier USDM interface section, basically a FAQ of interchangeable parts. And i've seen that info around, that and it was an exact match to the filter i took off of it also. i figure it's a sure thing if it has been aroud as common infor for a while and is ran by alot of guys. i suppose i would go with nissan filters if i could get them easily.

[drift freaq]

Yet another Syko Performance RB install kit swapped car runs!!!

[Tenchuu]

Well results on the cooling issues. car now idles/stays at around 208 deg in the heat. witch it went up when i was deiveing to the alighnment shop, witch i really don't like. so it seems that i am left with one of 3 options left.

1. remove AC cooler and strap e-fans directly to radiator (but i can feel them blowing cool ait through the radiator already)
2. drop $2xx on bigger 12" fans (current fans are 2 10" pushing 2000 CFM)
3. install new bumper (sitting in my house, but not painted) that has alot bigger vent for air to increase ariflow in.


what does severyone think?

[NemeGuero]

That's a hot bitch...
I don't understand why if you have a koyo AND fans on WITH a nismo thermo?
I don't overheat, I'm using OEM rad, AC fan only... and oem thermo..

WTF mate?

[Tenchuu]

So now i removed the AC condenser :(
it seems that getting the fiberglass bumper to fit will be about a 4-6 hr affair.

but i did notice that the air is blowing STRONG through the koyo now where it was a breeze before.

I'll keep everyone posted of the results.

[kouki_s14]

i need to check the temp of my coolant, but i havnt had any overheating problems with my setup (2 pusher 12's, with AC, stock radiator, and stock thermostat). maybe it's your bigger ic or the koyo is heat soaking or a combination of the two.

[drift freaq]

i need to check the temp of my coolant, but i havnt had any overheating problems with my setup (2 pusher 12's, with AC, stock radiator, and stock thermostat). maybe it's your bigger ic or the koyo is heat soaking or a combination of the two.
Well Henry your setup is pretty good. I would say his Permacool fans are inefficent and possibly not even as powerful as they are rated at. I have always put my trust in Flex-a-lite becuase they are proven. I would also say your possibly right about the heat soak on the koyo. Its a proven fact they do heatsoak.
Good luck though Ken on mounting the Permacool direct to your radiator. I hope it works for you.

[NemeGuero]

Even so.. isn't Koyo > stock?

I just am struggling with the over-heating issue...
WITH a nismo thermo?

[Tenchuu]

NO noticable differance in the coolent temp gauge. i will lazer the thing tommarow to see if there is a differance. also it was suggested that i switch from antifreeze to watterwetter. I suppose i could also swap back to the KA radiator, altho it does seem a little wrong to swap to a smaller radiator to get better cooling. but i have heard about that also...... guess i am a RB guinnepig on the koyo radiator. but man am i getting tired of daining and switching all of the coolent out of that thing.


maby it might help if i put back on the under body aero too? ALso i tok off the cooling panel just to see if it is restricting the amount of air that the fans are able to pull into the the radiator.


i dunno this is about to becoem expensive and time consumeing to fix. another new radiator... or two new fans..... or both that is an extra 400-600 that i really don't need to spend with me quiting my job in a couple of weeks.

[kouki_s14]

i think the easiest solution right now is to get a single Flex A Lite puller. it will squeeze in between the motor on the passenger side. Dave ran it that way with that as the only fan and it worked for him. i plan to add the puller soon since socal is gonna start heating up.

henry

[S14DB]

With all that shit that was in the block when you took the water pump off. I would consider a Radiator Flush such as 'Zerex Super Radiator Cleaner' to get the rest of the crap out of there.

I think you have a clog in your system that is blocking/restricting coolant flow.

[Tenchuu]

Ordered FAL pushers tonight. if that doesn't work be on the lookut for someone who wante to buy a 98 RB 240 for me everyone.

[Tenchuu]

With all that shit that was in the block when you took the water pump off. I would consider a Radiator Flush such as 'Zerex Super Radiator Cleaner' to get the rest of the crap out of there.

I think you have a clog in your system that is blocking/restricting coolant flow.


I already had a coolent system clean/flush by a shop the other day.

on a different note i had an alighnment today and the car is back to driveing good.

[kouki_s14]

order a puller!!!!

[Tenchuu]

order a puller!!!!
no room with the FMIC

[kouki_s14]

10 inch FAL may fit under the piping

[Tenchuu]

my cooling system is turning into a 1500 ordeal.

OK realsistic break down
fans 60
water pump 125
radiator hoses 150
radiator 310
coolant flush 95
nismo thermo 55
reg thermo 20
Bad sender 20
good sender 17
new FAL fans 230
fluid 10


total so far: $1092

(not to mention that the koy and the fans are the second set i have bought so on new rad#2 and fans#3)
and i am going to switch over to watter wetter, plus that doesn't inculde shop fees involved with messing around with the damn thing or the time i have spent on it. then the only thin i will have left to change out is the radiator. (or remove the FMIC maby that is blocking too mutch air)

[Neejay]

Damn man...more than what I paid for my car :-\

[NemeGuero]

Where'd you get a nismo thermo for $55?

[Tenchuu]

Where'd you get a nismo thermo for $55?

got a hook up from a local shop, but look around on the internet.

http://performancenissanparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=154_157_181&products_id=100&osCsid=beb807c692988b95698b38b2af4874ff

http://www.superiornissanmotorsports.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=13_38_138&products_id=296&osCsid=64554ed52c9ded82c6fe7888bb7fedb3

http://www.thenissanpartsstore.com/Pages/Ecomm/Product_category.asp?prodCatId=15

[Tenchuu]

well good news, since i moved the fans off the AC condenser and put them onto the radiator, i got it lazered today and it was @178deg at idle after driveing it around for 30 min or so stop and go in the heat of the day. i think that the AC condenser was blocking too mutch air. not i will put the cooling panel back on and see it that makes any differance.

[spookykid]

I've been following this thread for a while - just wanted to say thanks for writing all this up for us. The RB route is where i'm going to be headed this summer, and it's always nice to see it done a few times before you attempt it, u know?

Anywho, good luck w/everything else, and thanks again!

[Neejay]

well good news, since i moved the fans off the AC condenser and put them onto the radiator, i got it lazered today and it was @178deg at idle after driveing it around for 30 min or so stop and go in the heat of the day. i think that the AC condenser was blocking too mutch air. not i will put the cooling panel back on and see it that makes any differance.
Just curious, why did you take the cooling panel off? Just because you thought it would be cool enough?

And also, why didn't you put the fans on the radiator from the beginning?

[Tenchuu]

Just curious, why did you take the cooling panel off? Just because you thought it would be cool enough?

And also, why didn't you put the fans on the radiator from the beginning?


i took the cooling panel off becaue the fans have to suck air from somewhere, and since the intercooler is so big it is blocking alot of air.... but maily cause i was running out of things to change up to get it cooler. and i diddn't mount it on the radiator to begin with because i like, and plan on keeping my AC if at all possible. when i get the FALs in i will see if i can put them on top of the condenser and hook that back up but there is only one way to find out if it will work. witch is wait for someone on zilvia to find out the hard way and learn from their mistakes if they write it up :)




also just a thought on driving the car, the alighnment was WAY off, so i got that fixed and it handles just like it did before the swap, witch is to say great. only thing is that the RB seems to detest low speeds, i drive it NA most of the time and only am getting about 200miles to the tank (12-14MPG) I have heard that it should get alot better than that, but i will update this as it progeresses and gets the bugs worked out of it. i have went through 2 tanks so far, but it is just now comeing out of the project stage (bought air filter today) ... oh and that low speeds thing, at under about 8or so MPH in 1st, and at the low ends of every gear it is a bit jerky, kind of like the clutch is engageing and disengaugeing but i don't think that is the case since as soon as i give it gas it takes off with the quickness. once i get above parkinglot cruising speeds it wants to go like it's cool. after riding in a friends SR a while back, the feeling of waiting and then the boost hits, isn't there, it is go go go go go..(sound of turbo spooling up like a jet engine).boost and then you're really kicked back in the seat.

I think that the turbo noise is louder than the BOV, and that is loud too. but all in all this is a veary civil engine when crusising around town. i pretty mutch stay off the boost and drive jsut as fast as my KA around town, but when I need the power i's always hungrily waiting on tap to be let loose.

i really would like to see this engien at my goal of 300-350WHP, cause it is quick now.

and that's a nite.

[drift freaq]

Sounds like you need to work on the tuning ken, it should not be jerky at low speeds. My car is not, I let the clutch out at low rpm's and it just rolls. Ask Henry how his is running, Seeing as your both Kouki s14's running roughly a identical setup.

[kouki_s14]

mine doesnt jerk at low speeds except for the usual 2mph roll with clutch fully engaged and me stepping on the gas. without throttle it rolls fine even though my clutch isnt too forgiving, i dont get the jerkiness you're talking about. i also get at least 17-18 mpg even with a dirt filled intake filter.

[Neejay]

Ah, ok. Didn't understand how much space you had/the front mount blocking air.

[Tenchuu]

I'll have to look into getting it dynod when i get back home, it wil beon a trailer going up to Oregon, so I'm not too worried about it for now. or i suppose there are somre dyno places about a block away i could hook up the SAFC and go see what i can get out of it.

[Tenchuu]

FINALLY!!!!!!


so i put in the FAL 240 fans (be sure to read the instructions, you have to reverse the wires but not the blades) and changed out the coolant (to mutch andtfreeze was like 60/50 ritch mix) now it is about 75% water with a bottle of Royal purple purple ice (water wetter stuff) in there and my temp went from 208deg to 143deg now i am finally seeing the benifit of the extra cooling that i have been doing. ends up you were right dave, those fans were licking ballz. alth after looking at how everything fits in there, there is no wat (without timming the core support) to fit FAL 240 fans in front of the AC condenser. so i left it off for now. I am seriously considering just saying hell with the AC but will think about it for a while first. now that the engine is back up to reliable status (altho air filter comeing in next week) I am finally just going to get to drive and enjoy it for a bit. next up is boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. but those are comeing after i move most likeley.

[Tenchuu]

After trying to install a SAFC, and findeing out that some wires are different (than what APEX'I lists a RB25DET should have), I decided that running stock was better than a seized motor and canked that SAFC. i will return to the modding down the road whenever i get a PFC to drop in it.... so don't expect to hear on that for a while. but int he mean time id dumped WAY too mutch fuel so i took out the spark plugs. Here they are after driveing it for two weeks:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2007.jpg
what you can't see in the pic is that they kinda have pink spots on the white part, it hink that i overheated the shit out of them, then dumped on an ass load of fuel. it does run a little smoother now. also these are NKG 6953 coppers re-gapped to .8mm (as per the spec i found)


and these are for everyone who is thinking why diddn't i just hook the fans up as pullers:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2008.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_2009.jpg

[kouki_s14]

clamp seems to be a bit crooked
might want to straighten it out a bit cause it seems like it might pop off after awhile

[eh?]

Are you still running the stock FPR?

[Tenchuu]

those clamps are the shittiest ever. 1/2 of them diddn't even go on straight the first time, and that one has to be removes every time i get to the radiator, i need to source some decent clamps to replace outall of them

eh? yes i am running the stock FPR, saw no real reason to upgrade it as i am running the stock injectors, i saw no real reason to up that and deal with tuneing it all out with an aftermarket one. right now the engine is bare bones stock with a FMIC, low temp thermostat, and koyo radiator, and walbro fuel pump. as i mentioned before i was going to hook up the SAFC, but i would highly suggest not doing it (i have installed 3 of them before this and something aobut the wireing if off between apexi, the RB, and my car so you are on your own on damageing the vechile if you decide to) that plan is to get it running great as stock with extra cooling capibilities and then if time, desire and funding permits adjust as i see fit. right nowi can confidently say that it will be 6+ monthsx until i re vist the modding possibilities on this setup due to me moveing states, takeing a vacation, and switching jobs.

[BlackS14]

Props on an excellent thread man. I have no plans to go RB, but I am a huge fan of reading threads such as these with great detail and lots of pics....awesome. Glad to see it finished and running well...now....VIDS!!!!

-Bill

[eh?]

eh? yes i am running the stock FPR , saw no real reason to upgrade it as i am running the stock injectors, i saw no real reason to up that and deal with tuneing it all out with an aftermarket one. right now the engine is bare bones stock with a FMIC, low temp thermostat, and koyo radiator, and walbro fuel pump .

You don't upgrade the FPR because of new injectors, you upgrade it because of the higher flowing fuel pump, which you have. It's known (well to some) that the stock RB 20 and 25 FPR cannot handle the increased flow from a upgraded pump. The result is increased fuel pressure which in turn creates a rich condition...

[Tenchuu]

You don't upgrade the FPR because of new injectors, you upgrade it because of the higher flowing fuel pump, which you have. It's known (well to some) that the stock RB 20 and 25 FPR cannot handle the increased flow from a upgraded pump. The result is increased fuel pressure which in turn creates a rich condition...

You do realize that the RB motors CANNOT handle the flow from a stock pump. it runs lean as shit and will burn it out in a matter of weeks on a stock pump, and in order to flow the same as a factory skyline pump you HAVE to replace out to a high flow pump.

But on that same note it will run ritch, but not like a SR or KA with the high flow pump.

RB stock = 6 x 370cc 2220cc total <-- upgraded fuel pump is for these
SR stock = 4 x 370cc 1850cc total
KA stock = 4 x 260cc 1040cc total <-- stock fuel pump is for these

so as you can see the RB needs over 2x more flow that the KA pumps is made to draw out. for a better tune i would say yes, get the PFC, wideband it on a dyno and put in a guage to monitor fuel pressure. but my realistic side says i am running it stock, it is a little ritch but all it is doing is going to cost me a bit more in gas for the time being.

but with that said i am resaerching to get one just to help smoothe out the idle a little bit.

[S14DB]

It's not the 'flow' from the walbro that the FPR can't handle. It's the 50psi output pressure. The Flow data you listed is 100% duty cycle not idle. Idle is were the fpr is bypassing a lot of fuel. The FPR is designed for 43psi but dealing with 50psi inlet pressure.

All the engines you listed use the same FPR. So, they are all affected by higher PSI regardless of flow.

[eh?]

I'm not sure which part of my post you did not understand. You definitely need to upgrade the pump. IT's obvious you need to upgrade the pump- it's a requirement of the swap.
My point is the walbro FLOWS or outputs more PRESSURE than the stock RB25pump. Therefore you need a way to lower the pressure back to spec.
Understand?
If your still a little bit confused read this thread:
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35902
You do realize that the RB motors CANNOT handle the flow from a stock pump. it runs lean as shit and will burn it out in a matter of weeks on a stock pump, and in order to flow the same as a factory skyline pump you HAVE to replace out to a high flow pump.

But on that same note it will run ritch, but not like a SR or KA with the high flow pump.

RB stock = 6 x 370cc 2220cc total <-- upgraded fuel pump is for these
SR stock = 4 x 370cc 1850cc total
KA stock = 4 x 260cc 1040cc total <-- stock fuel pump is for these

so as you can see the RB needs over 2x more flow that the KA pumps is made to draw out. for a better tune i would say yes, get the PFC, wideband it on a dyno and put in a guage to monitor fuel pressure. but my realistic side says i am running it stock, it is a little ritch but all it is doing is going to cost me a bit more in gas for the time being.

but with that said i am resaerching to get one just to help smoothe out the idle a little bit.

[Tenchuu]

You sir, are correct.

this origionally was on my turn key list of parts to replace before i got started, but got the boot due to other parts takeing it's place. I was put off until i got a air filter (witch i got tonight I hate San Diego) and cured the stumbeling at idle (witch it did) so basically was beign lazy and jsut avoiding driveing rather than work on it over the easter holiday. i needed a break.

As far as FRP install goes i have read that the procedure is set to 43psi with the vac line off, and then plug it in and go. as far as i can find out, should be easy,if i can find something to check the pressure with, if not it is set to 37 factory witch is close than the walbro but not goos enuff for doing it right the first time.

any tips that you guys can give me, EH? or S14, to make this process go any easier??

for anyone reading this step are:
1. release pressure in gas tank
2. pull fuel pump fuse
3. idle car until it dies, DO NOT REV
4. pull and change regulator
5. put a gauge in the SEND line and connect back up
6. replace fuel pump fuse
7. measure car at fuel pressure with gauge at idle with vac line desconnected, adjust to 43psi
8. check for leaks
9. test drive
10. check again and enjoy!

feel free to inform me if that misses anything. as i have said before, i am doing most of this stuff of reasearch alone, and getting the first hand experiance myself.

I have heard that the screws are hard to get off, but you have to make sure that you don't round them or else you are fuxored. so i know tha tmutch at least.

[eh?]

any tips that you guys can give me, EH? or S14, to make this process go any easier??

for anyone reading this step are:
1. release pressure in gas tank
2. pull fuel pump fuse
3. idle car until it dies, DO NOT REV
4. pull and change regulator
5. put a gauge in the SEND line and connect back up
6. replace fuel pump fuse
7. measure car at fuel pressure with gauge at idle with vac line desconnected, adjust to 43psi
8. check for leaks
9. test drive
10. check again and enjoy!

feel free to inform me if that misses anything. as i have said before, i am doing most of this stuff of reasearch alone, and getting the first hand experiance myself.

I have heard that the screws are hard to get off, but you have to make sure that you don't round them or else you are fuxored. so i know tha tmutch at least.
Your procedure is correct.
As far as the screws, I don't remember if there's enough space on the stock IM, but cracking the screws loose with a small vice grip helps a lot.

[Tenchuu]

well i have been fighting problems for a while, but needless to say i have switched out 4 fuel pumps in 4 weeks so i deserve some sort of frequent flyer miles or some shit. at least a secred decoder ring if nothing else. total count:
2 broke walbro HP pumps
2 fine S14 pumps, one accidently chucked
1 nince new walbro HP pump currently installed.

and i will see what happens from here.

for referance faulty fuel pumps cause an ass load of srtange problems to include:
no torque
turbo spools but no acceleration
acceleration and no rurbo sppooling
decreased blow off
sputtering/stalling
air in fuel lines
almmost like a vaccume leak sort or problems, i know it's a bitch to get to the fueal pump, but it makes a good place to start troubleshooting the fuel system.

[kouki_s14]

wow you have some bad luck with those pumps, but i didnt think the fuel pumps was hard to get to. an easy mod if you ask me. try going with a nismo or some other brand if this walbro goes out again. nothing is as cheap or quiet as the walbro, but im sure the quality is worth the price.

[NemeGuero]

well i have been fighting problems for a while, but needless to say i have switched out 4 fuel pumps in 4 weeks so i deserve some sort of frequent flyer miles or some shit. at least a secred decoder ring if nothing else. total count:
2 broke walbro HP pumps
2 fine S14 pumps, one accidently chucked
1 nince new walbro HP pump currently installed.

and i will see what happens from here.

for referance faulty fuel pumps cause an ass load of srtange problems to include:
no torque
turbo spools but no acceleration
acceleration and no rurbo sppooling
decreased blow off
sputtering/stalling
air in fuel lines
almmost like a vaccume leak sort or problems, i know it's a bitch to get to the fueal pump, but it makes a good place to start troubleshooting the fuel system.

Thanks for posting this, Tenchuu.
I think my pump needs to be replaced.

[R33GTS-T]

when my rb25 swap was done the car ran great...no problems what so ever and the SAFCII install wasn't a problem either

a week later and the nismo adjustable fpr came in and threw that on and retuned the safcII slightly and the car runs even stronger. i knew i needed to upgrade the fpr but i didn't think it would have made that much of a difference.

btw, i'm running the greddy intake manifold....makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on the engine ;)

[S14DB]

btw, i'm running the greddy intake manifold....makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on the engine ;)
And run FMIC pipes... ;)

[R33GTS-T]

And run FMIC pipes... ;)
this much is true lol

with the trust ps13 silvia fmic kit all we had to do was slightly modify the hot and cold pipe (at the turbo and at the throttle body) and it fit like a glove

btw, if you get the greddy intake manifold DO NOT run the 90mm throttle body unless you plan on making well over 600whp with the car. the 90mm throttle body will only kill throttle response if you aren't making a ton of power....i got the throttle body adapter piece with my manifold and bolted the stock rb25det tb right up

[NemeGuero]

It's not the 'flow' from the walbro that the FPR can't handle. It's the 50psi output pressure. The Flow data you listed is 100% duty cycle not idle. Idle is were the fpr is bypassing a lot of fuel. The FPR is designed for 43psi but dealing with 50psi inlet pressure.

All the engines you listed use the same FPR. So, they are all affected by higher PSI regardless of flow.

Does this mean that anyone, regardles of engine, using a walboro needs an aftermarket FPR to compensate for the pressure? Since, you'll be overloading the stock FPR so to speak?

What about FMUs?

[S14DB]

What about FMUs?
Crap...

Good enough to put in a sock and beat you with. :bigok:

[NemeGuero]

Crap...

Good enough to put in a sock and beat you with. :bigok:

LOL, ok.. well what about my FPR question?

[Tenchuu]

car is messed up i have to move. this makes me sick to do it...
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=982877#post982877

[NemeGuero]

Nnnooooo!!!!

[Neejay]

car is messed up i have to move. this makes me sick to do it...
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=982877#post982877
Damn, are you serious?

Whats wrong with it and why do you have to move? If you dont mind me asking...

[Tenchuu]

copied and pasted from the for sale thread

the why on the sell:
I am quitting the millitairy and moveing on monday (may 1)
Moveing to Oregon witch lacks a shop for me to cheaply work on it
car currently barley runs and sounds like a lawnmower
i still have to pack up, move out to another place and clean up my place before monday (currently 1/2 way packed)
I don't have little if any mechanic troubleshooting skills to figure this out, i don't have the cash to pay a mechanic to do this as well as keep full coverage (have to since have loan on car), pay the car payments, pay off the loan for the swap and pay the credit card off for the swap AND buy another vehicle to drive in the mean time while this is down cause i am going to be unemployed for a couple of months while i relocate.

so current bills+mechanic bills+second car payments+moveing-my job=need a reliable vehicle.

[Neejay]

Damn...sorry to hear.

[Tenchuu]

well it's oficial #5 cyl is flatlined.

[mrmephistopheles]

i take it your motor is out of warranty from the importer?

[Tenchuu]

well as of now the whole car is going to drift freaq to go to (syko performance) for repairs, i could just pay for the repairs and keep it......or sell it running guess it is all up to me to sell shit and raise funds to keep it or toss in the towel and call it a day on the 98RB project. will be deciding soon.

[R33GTS-T]

personally i think you have so much time and money invested into this project it would be a damn shame to turn around and sell it....especially if you get it fixed up and running

there's nothing like the sound of an RB25DET :bow:

i'll never own another S chassis car w/o and RB in it.....hell even my girl is planning to build an RB25 powered zenki s14 during this coming off season :cool:

[NemeGuero]

Keep it! I'm sure Dave will give you a good/fair deal!

[Tenchuu]

dave and gary are great guys, that is why i trust them with the car adn that they are going to do an A+++ job on it. thing is my priorities ar kinda shifting and funding is tight.

and if i keep it i will have to go back down to LA from OR then drive back up to OR again with the gas price at $my left nut/gallon

[Tenchuu]

OK car is running fine and has a new longblock in it. altho i am not going to be around to see it, it is going to be sold here soon. this is the end of the RB swap for me. swap was a complete sucess, reliability was a complete failure for me. obviously this isn't the normal as henery and alot of people have perfectly running RB cars that give no problem, but if anyne attempt to do this in the future, i would suggest haveing 2x the needed funds for misc items that don't work, but top of the line shit the first time, and be prepared to buy a new engine or completely go through it the first time.


i learned the lessons everything expensive way. but now with the new motor, a qualified mechanic is going over it, and i will be running fine, and i will never have to see that car ever again. and after all the work and money i put into it i have to say that might be a good thing.

[slavetothemuzic]

am getting about 200miles to the tank (12-14MPG) I have heard that it should get alot better than that

You should definitely be getting better mileage than that. I get higher than that in the city, and mid 20s on the highway. I do recall that running a couple bottles of injector cleaner through not long after the swap helped with my mileage and a minor cold start issue I was having.

oh and that low speeds thing, at under about 8or so MPH in 1st, and at the low ends of every gear it is a bit jerky, kind of like the clutch is engageing and disengaugeing but i don't think that is the case since as soon as i give it gas it takes off with the quickness. once i get above parkinglot cruising speeds it wants to go like it's cool.

Not sure about the jerkyness. Mine is completely smooth unless it's my fault. I have an Exedy clutch and it's pretty grabby.

[Tenchuu]

You should definitely be getting better mileage than that. I get higher than that in the city, and mid 20s on the highway. I do recall that running a couple bottles of injector cleaner through not long after the swap helped with my mileage and a minor cold start issue I was having.



Not sure about the jerkyness. Mine is completely smooth unless it's my fault. I have an Exedy clutch and it's pretty grabby.


well that car went away, but thing is i am putting two more RBs in my new kouki, and a friends S13 here in the next month (most likely)

so i guess i could tack on some more info th this thread, that or make a new one, maby that would be best.

[zerooath]

can you post pics of this car with the swap done?

and where in the world did you get your wiring done?

[Tenchuu]

can you post pics of this car with the swap done?

and where in the world did you get your wiring done?

read every page of this post. all the answers are within.

and jsut for fun the new prepped RB goodness

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/04-28-07_1837.jpg

[moonshinekouki]

how about ur tach how did u get them to read accuceatly teh revs and speedo?
thanks
mikey

[Tenchuu]

how about ur tach how did u get them to read accuceatly teh revs and speedo?
thanks
mikey

speedo read fine, the tach needed to be recal. you can adjust it with a screw on the back of the S14 gauge, but you have to have something to adjust it to to make sure it is 100% acurate

[nissanguy13]

did you figure out what the hell that big metal chunk on your firewall was? I saw one of the earlier posts on this thread, you must of been talking about my bad ass sr?

[Tenchuu]

maby......

here are some pics of the new swap..
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSC00039.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSC00036.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSC00043.jpg

[nissanguy13]

Hopefully one of these days well be in the same area so I can see this damn project. Since you took off with the other one before I got back

[Tenchuu]

woot woot for the smaller intercooler

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSC00046.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSC00050.jpg

[kouki_s14]

ahh brings back memories doesnt it?
although it might be some rather bad ones, but still memories haha

[liv2drift045]

git-r-done
msglnghtstfundai

[Tenchuu]

all front wiring done and tucked away. most of the piping of the intercooler finished. take a look:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSCN0010Medium.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSCN0011Medium.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSCN0009Medium.jpg

and my 7MGTE sitting around:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSCN0012.jpg

[kouki_s14]

you really do like those expensive ass radiator hoses dont you? haha

[Tenchuu]

you really do like those expensive ass radiator hoses dont you? haha


not really, but i have read other ways to do it,but all of them involve splicing hoses, and i still want to see it work in person.


and that one was only about $40 + 2 min to install.



by the way, that intake is a beat up POS that came with my clip, i have one for it floating around somewhere buried in the garage that is new.

[steve shadows]

and my 7MGTE sitting around:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSCN0012.jpg

because 7mgtes wiegh 10 lbs and fit into boxs like that

[Tenchuu]

because 7mgtes wiegh 10 lbs and fit into boxs like that

and are 1/2 full of intercooler piping

[Tenchuu]

a few hundred miles later, thing runs great.

[d-wade]

woot woot for the smaller intercooler

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/DSC00046.jpg


What FMIC are you running? Size?

[Tenchuu]

What FMIC are you running? Size?


a godspeed type L, already got it stolen once, so i am glad that i didn't get a more expensive one.

Bar and plate

core length : 20 1/2"
core height : 9"
core thickness : 2 3/4"
inlet/outlet size : 2 3/4"
end to end length: 28"

fit great, i had to remove my windshield washer container, and the fog lights and trim the reinforcement pinch weld, but no bumper cutting other than that.

[Tenchuu]

Late breaking update:

Just took this on a 12 hour straight drive around the state of Oregon to pick up a new bike. runs flawless. any car that pulls 12 hours straight from 100 deg and 4000 feet down to 500 feet and 30 degrees over two passes all in one trip deserves props. A+++++ reliability.

edit 530 miles 26.5 MPG lots of spirited driving.