|Z Chassis Technical discussion related to the Z Chassis such as the S30, S310, Z31, Z32, Z33 and Z34. Come here if you own a 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX. 300ZX, 350Z, or 370Z.|
Remove these by logging in or registering a free account with Zilvia.net!
| ||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|10-18-2011, 08:08 PM||#6|
HAHA..everyone does, its hard finding the proper pics to install the subframe. Front is relatively easy, just depends on what ur plans and budget are. Front.. just bolt the arms in, get some knuckles and fab some coil mounts or buy the weld in kit.. Rear takes a little more time with the tape measure. lol
Sorry for the first few being small..cell pics. I'll have to upload more on the front and rear coil mounts later
|10-22-2011, 02:38 PM||#7|
Mainly crappy cell pics, but didn't have a working camera at the time..
The wheel looks like it's sitting forward more, but that's how they sit from the factory..even with the sub swap, u can't really mount it back any further
|11-23-2011, 07:19 AM||#12|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Trader Rating: (5)
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
Dash caps aren't that expensive. Not to knock you, but I don't get the appeal of a boring S13 dash compared to the classically styled and very useful original dash. The 3 gauge pods are perfect for mounting aftermarket gauges. I couldn't even tell mine had a dash cap when I bought it.
|11-23-2011, 08:52 AM||#13|
Sniffs the builds section
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Mililani, Hawaii
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
either way looks like a very informative build!
|11-23-2011, 05:23 PM||#14|
True dash caps are cheap, but they still don't fit as nice or have the same feel as original. Originally I wanted to do a s15 lhd dash but too costly to just cut up, and the s13 dash was only $20..
In the long run everybody has the original dash with aftermarket gauges.. its been done and over done. The car isn't original anymore and will be far from. Main reason behind all of the projects I do.. Built not bought!
|11-25-2011, 09:07 AM||#20|
Yeh but the S14's are too long to be useful in the rear.
Ryan - this is Aaron - text me someday when you're working on it and I'll swing by. Got a new phone n lost all the contacts lol.
Build looks sick btw. Give everyone a peek of the Camaro too :P
|11-25-2011, 06:04 PM||#21|
Not to knock but the s14's are actually perfect.. I had to extend the rears 3" to get the clearance I needed, the bottoms then work out to be the same length as s14 in the long run, just the tops are wider..
Now its not a Z but still sexy as F***
|11-26-2011, 08:36 AM||#22|
Yep - sorry I meant to say S14's are too long to be useful for me. I mounted my subframe flush with the stock surface, not 1.75" down like yours, and with a Z32 perch on the bottom it is money, my lower control arm is flat (yours points up to get to the spindle).
Those templates are mint though - I'll send you the picture link if you feel like posting them.
I can't get over how dope the RS looks.
|11-26-2011, 09:55 AM||#23|
Thx man, and ya we might have to start fabin these things up, selling to those who want them.. but as for the dats
i'll have to take a new pic that's the old one with no coils just a 1x4" block of wood lol.. If you use the s13 coils in the rear with s13 bottoms the bottoms literally are only threaded on about 1-2 turns = Dangerous..
mounting it the way u have done will work to give u more threads and tuck it for a cleaner rail, but the hump that is on the front of the subframe will touch the floor guaranteed.. unless u cut the storage pockets up as well.. In addition the higher you go with the subframe the less clearance ur gunna have with the tires to flares or 1/4's. I currently have a 205/50/15 and had to extend the bottoms because the 1/4's were on the tires = No roll lol
Eventually gunna be running a 17x9.5... so in the long run the more turns on the coils u have initially the less pain in the a** u'll have down the road
|11-26-2011, 10:19 AM||#24|
Yah dude - I'm going straight to 17x9, 17x11. I am taking out all of that crap that mounts the nose of the S30 diff and it gives enough clearance for the new subframe hump. On HybridZ theres a build called "Introducing Gaijin" that he mounts it the way I am and he's on 18's with no issues on the same superwide BAMF flares. (He also is running full RB26 awd drivetrain :|) If it does come down to it I'll order a slightly longer spring from HSD/Stance.
For sure - if my buddy with the laser cutter is willing to knock off a bunch of sets I'm down for splitting sales.
This is Zilvia, running the tires into the 1/4's is 'proper' fitment, no? Lol.
|02-14-2012, 08:20 AM||#28|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
awesome project, should turn out to be a great car. i think the dash gives the car a more up to date feel and comfort to the interior too.
"just throw in like 8 packs of BBs and do a burnout.
DIY shot peen, done and done."
|02-14-2012, 01:43 PM||#30|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Curious about using the S14 LCAs in the front. Was this a bolt in affair, or did you machine a spacer/bushing to make them bolt to the subframe correctly? Also, what tie rods are you using?
Remove these by purchasing a Premium Membership with Zilvia.net!
LinkBack to this Thread: http://zilvia.net/f/z-chassis/414246-71-s30.html
|Kelowna Car Life - View topic - RatSun||This thread||Refback||09-04-2012 01:19 PM||46|
|The Paddock :: View topic - Z reference material/links||This thread||Refback||08-01-2012 07:00 AM||1|