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Old 09-24-2005, 06:30 PM   #1
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help with manual swap

i'm on the step where i have to remove the belhousing bolts off the A/T so i can remove the tranny

i got most of them but there's some on top of the belhousing where i cant see and its real hard to get to them..

any suggestions or tips on how to get the bolts off the top of the belhousing?

thanks..
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Old 09-24-2005, 06:49 PM   #2
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remove driveshaft, part of it needs to come out some anyway, unbolt tranny cross member, turn it sideways and take it out, unbolt engine mounts and let the tranny down some then remove bolts when you can reach them better, or remove it through the engine bay with tranny still attached.
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Old 09-24-2005, 08:51 PM   #3
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There actually is a special tool for this, I think it goes by the name of a "tranny bra" or "tranny extension", something like that. Basically it's just a regular 1/2 extension that is about 3 or 4 feet long. The ghetto way how I did it was to buy three long extensions and put them together. Unbolt and remove the driveshaft, remove the transmission mount and bracket. Tilt the engine back and from the back of the tranny use the put together extensions and reach the bolts at the top.

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Old 09-25-2005, 12:58 AM   #4
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use a box end and come from up top and reach behind the motor.. OR
use a wobble socket and a couple extensions
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Old 09-25-2005, 06:42 PM   #5
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got it off, thanks guys

now i'm on the part when i'm supposed to install the clutch master cylinder and pedal. does anyone know where i'm supposed to drill through the firewall?

and what is the metal line supposed to look like from the clutch master cylinder to the other side? the guy who shipped me the metal line bent it in weird ways..
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:23 PM   #6
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pull back the carpet and you'll see the hole.. it'll be a circle outline in the firewall and the line goes up along the firewall and down to your slave clyinder

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Old 09-25-2005, 08:37 PM   #7
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^^^ What he said.

... now is the time to reference your FSM and compare what you got to what you need and where it all needs to go
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Old 10-01-2005, 06:49 PM   #8
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could i use the auto speed sensor?

i'm also having trouble getting to the ecu.. my Chilton's manual isnt helping me..
how did you guys get to your ecu?

also
havent installed my clutch pedal yet but.. when i press the clutch pedal down, it stays down. i have to pull it back up. is there something wrong with this or is the spring just weird like that and is going to be fixed when i install it?

thanks
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Old 10-01-2005, 07:09 PM   #9
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auto/manual speed sensors are different, i have one available if you want, you have to bleed your clutch line i believe then it'll be springy or whatever
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Old 10-01-2005, 11:23 PM   #10
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when putting the clutch pedal in, one hole for the bolt is on the upper right of the circle and the other is on the bottom left?
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Old 10-02-2005, 03:19 AM   #11
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While drilling for it, both should be enclosed in a circular wall. You can't miss it. Drill thru those spots, and BAM, easy as pie.
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Old 10-02-2005, 10:54 PM   #12
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why cant you find the ecu? its in the passenger kick panel. you can't use the auto sensor
bleeding the clutch will fix your pedal and the cut outs are already outlined
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:07 PM   #13
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alright thanks guys
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:14 PM   #14
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do you guys suggest i just keep my auto 97 ecu in instead of the 96 manual ecu i have?

according to my researching, the 96 manual ecu would cause more problems in throwing off codes? is this true?

if i keep the 97 auto ecu, i'll eventually get the 97 manual one later. only problems with auto ecu is during cold weather the engine dies right? and the CEL light on?
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Old 10-05-2005, 07:07 PM   #15
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I have not been made aware of the engine dying at idle in cold weather with an auto ECU, I have only heard that the idle would be higher with an auto ECU, along with the CEL as you described, g'head and use that manual ECU if you got it
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Old 10-05-2005, 08:57 PM   #16
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You'll throw a rear O2 code with the 96 since it's a 3wire vs. the 97's 4wire, plus you won't have the neutral and 5th position inputs so there's no need to use the manual ECU. Keep the auto.
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:05 PM   #17
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^^^ And Russ for the win, I was not aware of the difference between the 96/97 ECU, but he knows the wiring of our cars better than anyone I have conversed with, even if it is 4am and he is in a drunken stupor, in his sleep with a harem of transsexual strippers in his bed and a story to tell, so listen to him on this one.
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Old 10-09-2005, 05:46 PM   #18
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thanks for everyones help but.. this guy i trusted to do the swap for me doesnt know what the hell he's doing. he told me he had it almost done but he doesnt know how to install the pedals or tranny. so i guess i'm just gonna have to tow it to a shop to finish the rest of the work.. because its been over a month since i left it at his garage. alskdfj
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