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Old 03-05-2007, 12:01 PM   #151
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Any one got SAFC II maf settings for a series II RB25? ive searched and am unable to find them. i just need the proper in and out settings. thanks.
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:45 PM   #152
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which way is easier to mount the engine rb25? from the bottom or from the top?
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:49 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow4g63
Yes you can.
wonderin if theres any clearance issue with it? since i heard koyos were thick to make an e fans to fit or you gotta make it fit to clear the crank pulley
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Old 03-11-2007, 12:35 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wangan_cruiser
which way is easier to mount the engine rb25? from the bottom or from the top?
I don't understand what you're asking. . .
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Old 03-11-2007, 01:43 AM   #155
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you can not mount the engine in from the bottom, well you could by removing the whole front cross member but it wouldnt be fun.

Go in from the top with the transmission attached to it, its best to get as much of hardware onto the motor before dropping it in as its a little tight to work on once its in.

If you dont use the AC you can move the radiator about 80mm forward which gives you enough room for the fans on the back of a 40mm thick radiator pluss about 30-40mm clearance to the cank pully in an S14.
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:14 AM   #156
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It's a hell of a lot easier putting it in from the bottom. I've done the bottom mount about 5 times and top mount once. I will never drop it from the top again. Plus you don't need a hoist.
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Old 03-11-2007, 06:12 AM   #157
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from the bottom for sure.. to take the cross memeber apart is a joke.. gives you an opportunity to change any bushings you want at the time, rack and pinion bushing, you'll probably be doing PS lines so its all there for you.. connect the engine harness while motor is on the floor.. get the car up and just lower it on the motor with cross member already bolted on to it via motor mounts.. tighten the bolts and you're done! its cake!
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Old 03-11-2007, 08:06 AM   #158
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Humm, i guess it taking me 10 minutes to drop it in solo with a fold up cherry picker always seemed to be easier...
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Old 03-11-2007, 05:02 PM   #159
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I can't think of a better way...
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:51 PM   #160
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i know for the fact that rb20 is lighter than the rb25....anyone knows how much does the rb20 than the rb25? would it affect the balance of s13 with an rb20 or rb25?
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:30 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR33S14
Any one got SAFC II maf settings for a series II RB25? ive searched and am unable to find them. i just need the proper in and out settings. thanks.
you might want to work on those searching skills

http://www.datsuns.com/red/accessories/S-AFC2Final.pdf

took all of 3 seconds lol

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Old 03-12-2007, 04:59 PM   #162
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yeah i found that place but for some reason my computer wont pull anything else up but their home page even the link you sent me doesnt work.
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:53 PM   #163
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rb26 swap
boost solenoid required? no right? seems like it's wired up to the chassis harness
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Old 03-30-2007, 02:35 PM   #164
 
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Anyone can post RB25DET NEO ECU Pintout

The are in year 99 and after
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:15 PM   #165
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ive got R33 Series 2 RB25 ecu pinouts if theyre the same, cant seem to find the NEO pinouts, let me know if you need the Series 2 ones
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:39 AM   #166
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rb26 swap
boost solenoid required? no right? seems like it's wired up to the chassis harness
no its not required.. but it came with it just keep it and take the restrictor out of the vacuum line.. you'll be at 12psi.. but it will work without it as well.. if you want more boost you'll have to hook up a boost controller to the last bung on the intake mani in the rear... thats it..
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Old 04-28-2007, 02:33 AM   #167
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Hello guys,

i do need pictures of an RB25DET powered S13 with the original crossmember. I do need to know how far the RB25DET engine mounts are away from the original S13 crossmember. I hope someone of you can help me.

Greets

BH
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Old 04-28-2007, 02:57 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remil19 View Post
Anyone can post RB25DET NEO ECU Pintout

The are in year 99 and after
I have the factory FSM wiring schematics for the NEO. get a hold of me. I will be back in town next thurs.
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Old 04-28-2007, 03:14 AM   #169
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just some fun facts:

flywheel MT bolt part number that you can pick up at local nissan dealership:
12315-42L11

also the flywheel is resurfaced by any local shop, just tell them that it should be done the same as a 300ZX NA (Z32 = 1991+)

and lastley the clutch and pressure plate is the same as a Z32 NA 300ZX


pretty common knowledge if you search, but now it is here too.


and another side note, if you have a lift and are taking off the cross member anyways, it may be good to go from the bottom up, but if you are like me and work in your garage, it is easy as shit to put in with a hoist. i had plenty of room dropping it in from the top.

jsut remember to take off the igniter chip, the brake vac line on the firewall, and have the car supported on fully extended jack stands. it is money.
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Old 05-02-2007, 01:07 PM   #170
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It was said that every KA24DE Koyo will work fine with the RB25DET, what is with the S14 SR20DET Koyo ?

Which Koyo is the best to buy for the S13 and RB25DET ?

S14 SR20DET looks like this:



The KA24DE Koyos have the inlets on the right side.
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:33 PM   #171
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The reason KA radiators(not jut koyo) work with the RB is because the inlet and outlets match up on both motors.

SR's have it on the opposite side on the top

Any radiator and i do mean ANY radiator will work with ANY motor, all you have to do is connect the inlet and outlet to the respected locations somehow. Clear enough?
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:43 PM   #172
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The reason KA radiators(not jut koyo) work with the RB is because the inlet and outlets match up on both motors.

SR's have it on the opposite side on the top

Any radiator and i do mean ANY radiator will work with ANY motor, all you have to do is connect the inlet and outlet to the respected locations somehow. Clear enough?
I do actually have a V-Mount setup on my CA18DET, trust me i have knowledge regarding watercoolers and piping. But i do not have Knowledge regarding the RB25DET atm...
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:36 AM   #173
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Will this one work in a S13 with RB25det ? Or will the pipe hit the oil panel ?

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Old 06-16-2007, 08:39 AM   #174
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Will this one work in a S13 with RB25det ? Or will the pipe hit the oil panel ?

I asked driftfreak and he said it will work without any clearance issues. I'm going to be running the same set-up s13 w/rb25 and nismo PB. Hope this helps...Thanx driftfreak
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:14 PM   #175
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how much have u guys spent on just the rb25 or rb26 swap total
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:58 PM   #176
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to do it right, lots and lots..
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Old 07-03-2007, 03:40 PM   #177
 
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anybody know the torque specs to the bottom end on the rb25det like rods and mains i got my crank collared and know i need to put it back together
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Old 07-14-2007, 05:47 PM   #178
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What is the best intake manifold to use on a rb26?
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Old 07-14-2007, 05:59 PM   #179
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What is the best intake manifold to use on a rb26?
yo! tks for the carfax again, i may have couple more to run by beg of Aug, i'll let you know.. as for the manifold, stock RB26 will do just fine.. depends really on what your goals are for the motor..to run this motor in a 240 chassis, you will need filters, dp, exhaust.. if the motor is out my suggestion is replace all maintenance items first.. water pump, oil pump, tbelt, get new plugs.. (7's as i'm sure you will up the boost) get a set of injectors, some n1's turbo's, and PFC, you'll be easily in some good 400's.. it will be reliable w/good power and in my opinion more then enough power.. if you have more $$ to fork out, look into new garret 2805's (i think), bolt right on and that should get you close to 500. Hope this helps..
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Old 07-14-2007, 09:11 PM   #180
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the rb25 does not require firewall mod but the 26 does to fit the starter of the 26 u need to dent the firewall a bit not much though
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